EFb18b

Its not the effen o2 sensor either so don't even try it! Its been replaced 4 times now within 6 months. Twice with bosch and twice with oem.

I have a b18b1 in a 1990 civic dx and the damn thing will not go away. Like I said I've done all I could with the o2 sensor, I've replaced the fuel filter, spark plugs, plug wires, the FPR tests fine, I have plenty of fuel pressure at the filter but I'm getting ready to change out the fuel pump anyway. I recently failed emissions because I'm spewing raw fuel out of my tailpipe. I need help can anyone answer what the hell is going on here?

notstock93

Mods to car? Im just guessing here...but do you by chance have cams? Probably wiring leading to the sensor.

93sidelsolvtec

Dude Im sooooo with ya on this one. I have a 91 4 door teg doing same crap. I have switched the fuel filter and O2.

I have been told code 43 is when the ecu cant keep A/F ratio in check or lack of fuel.

Ive been told to check these.. fuel injectors, fuel filter, fuel pump, O2, fuel pressure.

Hope you figure it out. If you do let me know.

EFb18b

only mods are a CAI and megen header.

EFb18b

Oh yeah here's another common *** problem thats been already been played out:

My FITV has been cleaned and replaced.

EFb18b

here are the plugs I replaced today if it helps at all



Cylinders 1 & 2



Cylinders 3 & 4

Runnerdown

what ecu, and injectors are in the motor

EE_Chris

The ECU uses short term and long term fuel trim parameters (+/- 20%) to keep the a/f ratio swinging about 14.7:1. It uses the O2 sensor for feedback on adjusting these parameters.

If your O2 is good (and you're sure your wiring is), then the a/f mix is probably out of whack compared to acceptable limits.

What does the maintenance history look like? You've replaced the fuel filter, plugs and wires....what about the cap and rotor? Check/set the valve lash? Check/set the timing? What is the fuel pressure actually set at? Can you adjust it? Done a compression/leakdown test yet?

thesmogman

Fuel pressure regulator, stuck injector, bad IAT, ECT, all could be your problem.
Vacuum leak.. maybe too.

The computer cannot adjust enough to correct it and gives up.

Hopefully a connector or a hose just fell off.

full Circling

I had a code 43 for months. I just couldn't figure it out. My engine was getting hotter than normal, and I had this hesitation that was slowly getting worse. I had good fuel pressure, and I wasn't throwing any other codes. I replaced my pressure regulator with a known good one, and nothing changed.

Then after thinking about it for a bit, I decided to replace my cat converter with a test pipe. So I made one up last night, and guess what? That fixed the problem.

I was getting a code 43 because the exhaust gases weren't getting through the cat very well. A code 43 pops up when the ECU can't bring the 02 sensor readings back within the acceptable range, by changing fuel and ignition timing. The clogged cat was backing up exhaust gasses and screwing up o2 sensor readings, which made my engine excessively hot, gave me bogging and hesitation, and made me lose power.

Take your cat off, hold it up to some light, and see how clogged it is. If a considerable amount of squares are clogged, swap it out with something better. I'd say about half of my squares were clogged, and my cat was on it's last leg.

thesmogman

An easier way to check the exhaust for pluggage is remove the O2 and put a pressure gauge in it and run the car. Over 1PSI is bad at idle

EFb18b

P75 ecu, stock injectors, completely new distributor about 3 months ago, valves are tapping a little bit but you can barely hear it, timing is perfect, stock fpr, if you take the vacuum side off the regulator the pressure shoots to 45psi, hopefully my compression and leakdown tester will back this weekend and I'll be able to do it then, injectors are on the way, IAT has been replaced, coolant sensor has been replaced, and I "unclogged" the cat 2 weeks ago.

Ever since I replaced my plugs and wires a few days ago, I did notice that it take the code a little longer to come on.

full Circling

Hmm....

After everything you've done to try and fix the problem, all I can think of that would be a problem is the injectors. BUT, every injector has a seperate code. Have you had your injectors tested, or replaced them with known good ones? Did you take a look at the condition of your cat converter before you hollowed it out? If you did, how was it?

Can you describe the driveability in more detail? Just trying to help out, man.



Modified by ^^whatnoobsearchthenGTFO at 3:17 AM 8/11/2006

EFb18b

I seriously thought it could have been the plugs and plug wires. While checking them and my timing over the weekend, I found that two of the plugs had a very weak spark and one of the wires shocked the hell out of me while testing. Also, when I was checking timing the timing light would stop flashing when I revved past idle. Since going with NGK plugs and wires, the thing is great to drive except it has a lumpy idle at a cold start up and after the CEL kicks on. Both will eventually calm down and even out at aroun 750-1000rpm depending on how cold the motor is.

One other thing I noticed when 5th gear took a dump in my last transmission, I could only go as high as 4th gear but I wouldn't get a cell then. go figure.

EFb18b

On the megan header the o2 sensor is located just before the cat. Is it possible that its located too far away from the head? Oh yeah, my cat was clogged to all hell. I only had about a 1/4" diameter circle of faded light left.

EFb18b

ok for some reason its starting to take a lot longer for the code to kick in but it still does. Also, as long as the CEL isn't on the motor runs and idles perfectly but even if I let it idle long enough it'll kick on.

Is this something that I might be able to make disappear with a SAFC?

EE_Chris

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EFb18b &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">completely new distributor about 3 months ago.

Ever since I replaced my plugs and wires a few days ago, I did notice that it take the code a little longer to come on.</TD></TR></TABLE>

New OEM distributor or Distributor King/AutoZone stuff? New OEM wires or AutoZone stuff?

Getting shocked by an insulated wire shouldn't happen...unless it's not insulated.

full Circling

no, don't install an safc to fix a problem.

thesmogman

Fuel Inj's have a dwell (On time in relation to off time) 100% to 0% is the scale
40% ontime means it is on 40% of it's dwell cycle

To the computer it has a range of adjustment + or - 25 from a center 0
for fuel trim. if the computer see's lean, lean, lean then it in step would try to go rich,rich,rich,rich until it see's rich then step back the other way. it is in constant motion until it hit's it end of range then throw's the CEL.

It's early and I was out late. I hope this makes sense.

EFb18b

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EE_Chris &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

New OEM distributor or Distributor King/AutoZone stuff? New OEM wires or AutoZone stuff?

Getting shocked by an insulated wire shouldn't happen...unless it's not insulated.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah I know. Thats why I got rid of all wires and plugs and replaced them with NGK stuff and the distributor is straight from acura.

EFb18b

ok, this morning I just got a code 1 and 9 along with the 43 just out of the blue. I have my thoughts on this but I'm looking for other's opinions as well. Please help

miahmouse

If you check your dizzy wiring and it's all good, and your grounds are all good.... you may need a new dizzy or the internals at least... from what I've read this can both cause and/or be the result of running too rich...

EE_Chris

Code 9 is distributor related. How many miles are on this 'new from Acura' distributor?

EFb18b

about 8500 miles.

I reset the ecu yesterday before i left work and the codes 1 and 9 aren't showing up again.

EFb18b

Alright, while my car is out of commission want to check my wiring.

Does anybody have or know where I can get a schematic for an obd2 motor(1997 b18b) -&gt; obd1 ecu (P75)? I'm going to go through my wiring....again.

I've got a obd0-&gt;obd1 conversion harness hooked up between the chassis wiring and the ecu right now. The dizzy wiring was matched and seems to be ok. Is there anything else?




Modified by EFb18b at 11:01 AM 8/20/2006