EJ1 wilcox

**update! I got it done. Thanks!! **

I've read every single thread on Miata wheels and haven't figured out what to do yet.

The problem is, the hub bore on the Miata wheels are 1-2 mm smaller than the Honda's bore. So, some people use wheel spacers, and some get the hubs bored out to fit.

Okay, so I picked up some Miata wheels to put on my EF. What is the best way to bore the hubs out to fit?

It would take me forever with a dremel tool and I'm not convinced that's the best way anyways. I also don't really want to pay $150+ to have a machine shop bore them out for me.

The other option is to get wheel spacers. Well, turns out that no one carries wheel spacers for 4x100 hubs around here. I called 6 different auto parts stores and tire shops, all said they don't carry 4x100 wheel spacers. So that's out of the question I guess.

So, what is the best way to get this done? I'm thinking maybe I'll take a ridge reamer to them and see what happens, that way at least the bore would still be round. Well, rounder than it would be if I used a dremel.

Anyways, what do people typically do? I know a number of people are running these wheels but as of yet no one has gone into detail about how they bored the wheels out to fit.

Thanks for the help, I would really like to get these on my car before next weekend!


Modified by EJ1 wilcox at 2:28 PM 4/14/2006

old man neri

Wheel spacers will just lead to a lot of problems in my opinion. It is not the correct thing to do. The correct thing to do is have them bored out proffessionally. Talk to machine shops and ask how much it would be if you payed cash and didn't ask for a reciept. It's not like you need great accuracy. +/- .25mm or something will probably do.

If you dremmel it or whatever in your garage it won't be true and it will end up shaking your car to death eventually. You tires will wear unevenly, your suspensiong will take a beating....etc.

In the end $100 or $150 isn't all that much when you compare it to the price of having to get new wheel bearings or going through tires a lot quicker because of uneven wear.

EJ1 wilcox

I agree that the best thing to do is to have them bored out professionaly.

I think I'll take them in to the machine shop tomorrow and at least see how much they can do it for.

I was just wondering how other people did it. Because, in the threads I read, people made it seem really easy to do.

EJ1 wilcox

I searched around some more and found that someone used a hole saw to bore the centers out.

I checked the machine shop and they quoted me $20 per wheel, so $80 total.

I think I'll try my hand with the hole saw before I shell out the $80.

old man neri

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EJ1 wilcox &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I searched around some more and found that someone used a hole saw to bore the centers out.

I checked the machine shop and they quoted me $20 per wheel, so $80 total.

I think I'll try my hand with the hole saw before I shell out the $80. </TD></TR></TABLE>


$80 really isn't that bad, that's cheap. That's about the cost of mounting 4 tires. I would just do that.


By hole saw, do you mean something like this?

EJ1 wilcox

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by old man neri &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">$80 really isn't that bad, that's cheap. That's about the cost of mounting 4 tires. I would just do that.


By hole saw, do you mean something like this?

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah, I guess so. I just read in one of the threads that someone used a hole saw and it worked well. The inside edges are already beveled so I would think it wouldn't be that hard to center the hole.

I don't have any hole saws though, so I'm going to stop by Lows and see if they have the right sized one that will saw through metal.

old man neri

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EJ1 wilcox &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I don't have any hole saws though, so I'm going to stop by Lows and see if they have the right sized one that will saw through metal. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Good luck. I would just hate to see you wreck your rims that's all.

But to help you out, 56.1mm is 2.209"

What the hole saw people probably did is use a 2-1/4" (57.15mm) hole saw, over bored it and slapped in on their car. Not a particulary good idea because the hub is meant to centre the wheel as well as carry some of the load.

vtecmissle

take it to a machine shop and have it honed out like an engine if it isnt too much . I noted .25 mm above isnt that 20 thousandsths standard. If your going to use a whole saw first cut out a peice of wood with the hole saw. Leave the drill end in the wood and spin it in the drill . Use a sander and basically turn down the wood untill it is a press fit into the hub. Then use the wood as a guide untill your about halfway into the rim. This will keep you centered remove the wood and finish boring. Should be fine.

EJ1 wilcox

Well, I was sucessful!

I went and bought a 2 1/4" hole saw and took my time. It actually worked really well, a lot better than I had expected.

I drilled a little bit out at a time, and was very careful to make sure the hole saw was centered. The edges of the hub were beveled just enough so the hole saw fit right in there.

I drilled a little, then test fit and inspected where the hub was hitting the rim, then I took a little more off and test fit again. I did this until the rim was like a 1/2 mm from the hub, just enough so the wheel fit on there just right. I did this to all the rims and then used my dremel to smooth the surfaces out. It came out really nice and looks like they were meant to fit on there. I also went for a drive and there was nothing unusual. I inspected them again after the drive and they were good. I also drove to work this morning and didn't get any vibrations or anything unusual.

Anyways, thanks for the help! Here are a couple quick pics.

EtherGhost

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by old man neri &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What the hole saw people probably did is use a 2-1/4" (57.15mm) hole saw, over bored it and slapped in on their car. Not a particulary good idea because the hub is meant to centre the wheel as well as carry some of the load. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Somehow I doubt that the hub is meant to carry any of the load, I'm pretty sure that the weight of the car is carried by the friction created by the hub pressing against the wheel when the lug nuts are tightened. If the hub is carrying any load, that means that the lug nuts have sheared, and you have bigger problems than centering the wheel

onefstek

In the past, I used a router to cut the bore out bigger. The aluminum is soft enough that will not damage the router bit.

Note: Very dangerous, so keep in mind that I will not be liable for your asses. Use at your own risk.

old man neri

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EtherGhost &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Somehow I doubt that the hub is meant to carry any of the load, I'm pretty sure that the weight of the car is carried by the friction created by the hub pressing against the wheel when the lug nuts are tightened. If the hub is carrying any load, that means that the lug nuts have sheared, and you have bigger problems than centering the wheel</TD></TR></TABLE>

Oh I aggree that the majority of the wieght is friction. I just have a feeling that some load, not neccessarily straight static wieght is transferted to the hub.

Oh well, sort of a moot point now anyways.

Cheers.

cbmprelude

can you post pictures of the process, if you have any?

r.wright

iTrader: (58)

siccness..you have any balance or vibration problems?

EJ1 wilcox

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cbmprelude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">can you post pictures of the process, if you have any?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I didn't take any pictures of the process. I just took a little material off and test fit, then took more off if it needed it. It was pretty straight forward. I smoothed the hubs out afterwards with a dremel.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mrrlx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">siccness..you have any balance or vibration problems?</TD></TR></TABLE>

No balance or vibration problems at all. I had the car aligned shortly after I installed the wheels. But that was more because I recently installed rear disk brakes and some other suspension parts that may have altered the alignment.

r.wright

iTrader: (58)

nice

cbmprelude

how long would this take with a dremel. Can I just mark a 56mm circle centered over the one previouly there and dremel away till I reach it and then smooth it out?

EJ1 wilcox

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cbmprelude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how long would this take with a dremel. Can I just mark a 56mm circle centered over the one previouly there and dremel away till I reach it and then smooth it out? </TD></TR></TABLE>

I suppose if you used the right bit you could do it. I tried with the stone bit or whatever that is meant for grinding and the metal kind of melted to the bit.

I think it would take like an hour per wheel or so. Which is WAY too long when you can get it done in a matter of minutes with a hole saw.

I tried with my dremel first and after working at it for a long time without much progress I just used a hole saw and then smoothed it out with a dremel afterwards.

But the simple answer is "yes", you could use a dremel, but it would be a major pain in the ***.

cbmprelude

thanks, I think I am going to try this. Kind of off topic, but does anyone have the link to the thread about what other different manufacturer rims will fit our cars? thanks

cbmprelude

do you have a pic of the inside of the wheel that has been cut?

pearl

iTrader: (1)

bump because i need to do this

HONDA RR

I going to try this and see what happens. This thread is very helpful.

sohcSUCKS

if u guys want a cheap place to get them done i had them done at a wheel shop in azusa, CA by the 210 near the beer factory for $12 a wheel if i remember correctly, they also got 3 mm wheel spacers. i had to get 2 for the fronts cause they RUB the brake caliper on ej8, not sure about other civics or integras.

fujiwara takumi

F so thats why my stock 2001 miata wheels wont fit my rex. GRR and I have an autocross in 12 hrs. Guess I should have checked first.

btw the daisy spokes look awesome on the EF, nice work.


Modified by fujiwara takumi at 6:00 PM 8/7/2006

veilside180sx

To add what was previously stated...

The hub bore is not a load carrying portion of the wheel. If it were so plastic hub centering rings would not be able to support the load required of it when you buy a generic wheel that has a typical 73.1 hub bore. It is only used to balance the wheel and keep it centered while installing the lug nuts to make sure you get it on there correctly. That's why you can run without them at all and be fine if you can tighten your lugs in a balanced sequence that keeps them centered.

Either way...your brave for attacking your wheels that way. I would've at least used a drill press for it, but kudos to you for not winding up with vibrations. Sometimes patience goes a long way.