What do do after spun bearing?
#1
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What do do after spun bearing?
99 hatch
81.5mm ls block w/stock pistons. arp rod bolts
stock b16 head
gsr intake cam sir intake cam
i was driving home from work thursday and suddenly heard a loud ticking or metal against metal sound as i lightly revved through the gear.
i thought something came loose or stuck under the car, but when i stopped at the walgreens by my house i popped the hood and heard this nasty sound from my engine.
at first i thought it was a valve but upon further listening and checking valve lash i thought it was my tensioner or a bent valve.
well today i dropped it off at a reputable auto service place to get a leak down test.
after a couple hrs i called and the owner told me i had a spun bearing. he stated he did a leak down test and it was ok and he used a stethoscope to listen to car block and it was definitely a spun bearing. he told me he could open the pan to verify.
the car had a leaky oil pump so its possible. [it had pleanty of oil]
so what now?
i have three choices as far as i see it.
1 sell the hatch like it is.
2 take out the long block and take the short block to a machine shop and have them fix it. {or take the whole long block so i wont have to tear into it}
3 take out the long block and replace it with a b20 from Hmotorsonline.com [749+shp= 999+/-]
the cons
1 i dont know who would buy a spun engine hatch & i cant afford a car payment.
2 if i sent it to a machine shop i might have to pay close to what a long block might cost me plus water/oil pumps & i still have to use 91+ octane
3 if i buy a B20 long block i would pay close to 1G and i would still have to buy a timing belt kit plus water/oil pumps. but i could use 87 octane
this is all after i bought a new gsr tranny with quaife LSD, got a new radio, installed a stealth alarm and tinted the windows. F-me
not to mention my wife is pissed because this would be my 4th car and 3rd engine ive gone through in 6 years
discuss
81.5mm ls block w/stock pistons. arp rod bolts
stock b16 head
gsr intake cam sir intake cam
i was driving home from work thursday and suddenly heard a loud ticking or metal against metal sound as i lightly revved through the gear.
i thought something came loose or stuck under the car, but when i stopped at the walgreens by my house i popped the hood and heard this nasty sound from my engine.
at first i thought it was a valve but upon further listening and checking valve lash i thought it was my tensioner or a bent valve.
well today i dropped it off at a reputable auto service place to get a leak down test.
after a couple hrs i called and the owner told me i had a spun bearing. he stated he did a leak down test and it was ok and he used a stethoscope to listen to car block and it was definitely a spun bearing. he told me he could open the pan to verify.
the car had a leaky oil pump so its possible. [it had pleanty of oil]
so what now?
i have three choices as far as i see it.
1 sell the hatch like it is.
2 take out the long block and take the short block to a machine shop and have them fix it. {or take the whole long block so i wont have to tear into it}
3 take out the long block and replace it with a b20 from Hmotorsonline.com [749+shp= 999+/-]
the cons
1 i dont know who would buy a spun engine hatch & i cant afford a car payment.
2 if i sent it to a machine shop i might have to pay close to what a long block might cost me plus water/oil pumps & i still have to use 91+ octane
3 if i buy a B20 long block i would pay close to 1G and i would still have to buy a timing belt kit plus water/oil pumps. but i could use 87 octane
this is all after i bought a new gsr tranny with quaife LSD, got a new radio, installed a stealth alarm and tinted the windows. F-me
not to mention my wife is pissed because this would be my 4th car and 3rd engine ive gone through in 6 years
discuss
#2
maybe another option is to DIY? do you have friends who would know how? invite them over and work on the car over the weekend. you'll save more money and learn a whole lot. if not, i would just have the short block rebuilt by the shop. but honestly, if you're already removing the engine from your car, you might as well rebuild it. invest in a FSM and follow it to the point. good luck
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i was thinking about just looking inside the block for the spun bearing. taking the bearings out and taking them to the machine shop and see if i could just get new bearings for that one rod.
bolting it in and calling it a day.
would that hold me over until i have more cash?
bolting it in and calling it a day.
would that hold me over until i have more cash?
#6
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Re: (formby)
You are a very lucky man if the only thing that was damaged is 2 shells. I would tear down the block and see what you are dealing with before you start trying to make any decisions.
#7
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well ive decided to rebuild what i have.
max bore TB $100
extrude hone IM $429 might not do it
bought
82mm CTR nippon pistons $159
OEM honda
1 x COVER ASSY., R. SIDE $53.43
1 x PUMP ASSY., OIL $93.82
1 x WATER PUMP (YAMADA) $75.80
1 x TENSIONER, TIMING BELT $54.21
1 x GASKET SET, HEAD COVER $38.02
1 x RUBBER, SEAL (LOWER) $20.61
1 x SEAL B, ENGINE MOUNTING BRACKET RUBBER $2.75
1 x COVER, TIMING BELT MIDDLE $17.53
1 x COVER, TIMING BELT BACK $20.25
1 x SEAL A, ENGINE MOUNTING BRACKET RUBBER $3.61
1 x RUBBER, BACK SEAL $21.53
1 x SWITCH, OIL PRESSURE (TEC) $6.09
1 x GASKET, OIL PAN $19.83
1 x O-RING (26.2X2.4) (NOK)
$1.33 1 x GASKET, OIL STRAINER $1.51
6 x BOLT A, TIMING BELT COVER $16.02
2 x BOLT, TIMING BELT COVER $5.96
Sub-Total: $452.30 UPS and FedEx (Ground): $13.10 Handling Fee: $4.95 Discount Coupons:honda-tech10: $10.00 Total: $460.35
https://www.hondapartsdeals.com
$420+/- for the machine work plus final assembly
+ honda bearings $???
thats all so far and only the block
i might buy some comp cams 57300 but i dont know if i should using my b16 lifters.
max bore TB $100
extrude hone IM $429 might not do it
bought
82mm CTR nippon pistons $159
OEM honda
1 x COVER ASSY., R. SIDE $53.43
1 x PUMP ASSY., OIL $93.82
1 x WATER PUMP (YAMADA) $75.80
1 x TENSIONER, TIMING BELT $54.21
1 x GASKET SET, HEAD COVER $38.02
1 x RUBBER, SEAL (LOWER) $20.61
1 x SEAL B, ENGINE MOUNTING BRACKET RUBBER $2.75
1 x COVER, TIMING BELT MIDDLE $17.53
1 x COVER, TIMING BELT BACK $20.25
1 x SEAL A, ENGINE MOUNTING BRACKET RUBBER $3.61
1 x RUBBER, BACK SEAL $21.53
1 x SWITCH, OIL PRESSURE (TEC) $6.09
1 x GASKET, OIL PAN $19.83
1 x O-RING (26.2X2.4) (NOK)
$1.33 1 x GASKET, OIL STRAINER $1.51
6 x BOLT A, TIMING BELT COVER $16.02
2 x BOLT, TIMING BELT COVER $5.96
Sub-Total: $452.30 UPS and FedEx (Ground): $13.10 Handling Fee: $4.95 Discount Coupons:honda-tech10: $10.00 Total: $460.35
https://www.hondapartsdeals.com
$420+/- for the machine work plus final assembly
+ honda bearings $???
thats all so far and only the block
i might buy some comp cams 57300 but i dont know if i should using my b16 lifters.
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#8
Honda-Tech Member
Did you check prices at http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com ?
or
http://www.acuraautomotivepart...20All
or
http://www.acuraautomotivepart...20All
#9
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well ive started a build i guess
bought
82mm nippon ctr pistons 159.99
oem water/oil pumps + various gaskets 460.35
skunk2 pro 2 cams 519
professional products 68mm TB 139.74
golden eagle girdle kit 388.69
AEBS IM 144.26
total is 1812.03
this is all going with a stock b16a2 head and b18a block
bought
82mm nippon ctr pistons 159.99
oem water/oil pumps + various gaskets 460.35
skunk2 pro 2 cams 519
professional products 68mm TB 139.74
golden eagle girdle kit 388.69
AEBS IM 144.26
total is 1812.03
this is all going with a stock b16a2 head and b18a block
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