'88 CRX, Turbo H2B swap info:

ENGINE/TRANSMISSION:
-JDM H22A
-QSD kit
-NEW!!! usdm ITR transmission
-Avid shift linkage
-Energy Suspension shifter bushings
-B&M shifter
-Competition clutch ultra light steel flywheel
-Competition clutch sprung stg5
-Shaved crank pulley
-Balance shafts eliminated (Kaizenspeed kit)
-ESP 1/2" over alt kit/'92+ D series alt.
-Skunk2 Intake manifold, port matched at the throttle body to 75mm
-75mm Edelbrock throttle body & adapter plate
-Hondata intake manifold gasket
-Skunk2 rear cam seal
-Edelbrock fuel filter
-RC 750cc injectors (SH4)
-Wallbro 255 fuel pump
-AEM firewall mounted FPR with Marshall gauge
-Full-Race 1/2 size Radiator for CRX, slim pusher fan
-Hondata S300/P28 with boost mod & GM soleniod
-OBD0-OBD1 coversion & DPFI-MPFI conv.
-HAsport 88-91 crx Hydro B-series motor monts (88A)

FORCED INDUCTION:
-PeakBoost H22 manifold with 44mm wastegate option
-Garrett T3/T04R .70ar/67mm wheel; .82ar with P trim turbine wheel
-TiAL 50mm BOV
-TiAL 44mm
-Ebay dual backdoor intercooler, core 26x8x3.5, overall length 34" (BOV also welded to the back of intercooler)
-2.5" coustom intercooler piping
-2.5" down pipe expands to 3" under oil pan, 3" in/through&out resonator, turndown outlet a few inches after the shifter
-1.75" dump from wastegate

SUSPENSION/BRAKES/WHEELS&TIRES:
-Ksport kit with extra rear pair of 1000lb springs (for the track)
-Ingalls front camber kits
-Wicked Tuning rear camber kits
-Full-Race traction bars
-Function7 rear lower control arms
-2001 GSR 1" master brake cylinder & booster DOT4 fluid
-front & rear stainless steel braided brake lines
-new stock inner & outer tie rods & boots
-new stock front rotors, and pads and wheel bearings/studs
-new stock rear drums, shoes and wheel cylinders
-new stock rear trailing arm bushings
-Energy Suspension steering rack bushings
-Energy Suspension front sway bar endlink bushings
-Drag DR-16 gold/polished lip 16" rims/ BFGoodrich 205/45-16 (SOLD)
-Lenso 13x7.5 with M&H 23x8x13 slicks
-Lenso XPD-R 15x3.5 skinnies with M&H 24x3.6x15 tires

INTERIOR:
-Painted
-Sparco driver & pass. side seats
-integra LS gauge cluster swap

EXTERIOR:
-new stock headlights
-clear corner & bumper lights
-new stock front & rear bumpers
-shaved antenna

and hear are some pics

had to cut frame near headlight to fit alt







veiw from drivers position, notice the intake manifold

about a 1/8" of clearance from pulley to frame

more pics to come

Modified by 88ED8 at 12:47 AM 4/11/2008

Sweet car man, so bad ass.

might want to look into bigger slicks though.. and use red loctite on that ingles kit.

this calculator was bang on for me..

23" m&h slicks are actually 23.4 if you read the specs (for any allmotor guys reading this). not sure about 25" or 26" sicks.

frost white eg cx....h22 project daily
captiva blue eg k-booosted
SYNAPSE MOTORSPORTS

wtb: accorrd or prelude shifter box
p28 or p13 ecu

SINISTER RACING

Quote, originally posted by 88ED8 »

Damn, I think thats the cleanest I've ever seen a 92-95 Civic radiator in a CRX.

some more pics







Modified by 88ED8 at 6:50 PM 9/2/2007

I wish, that would have been alot cheaper... Thats the full-race crx rad. to go with their bars.

SINISTER RACING

yea it does, I flared the stock hard line, wich is not currently in the car

Quote, originally posted by gibsanez »

What throttle cable are you using?

it's a 90-93 integra cable

I can't figure my cable issue out. It's just too damn long.

care to drop into my thread in my sig?

exospeed
callosracing
Combustion Contraption

I LIKE MY ENGINE ALL NATURAL LIKE MY WOMEN

I did a little bit of mocking up of the front end, just to see how everything will come together, and it got me even more motivated to get this beast done...

this is how the ground clearance looks, not bad but should get better once the rear is lowered from stock hight.

and this is how it bolts up to the lower control arm

anyone have any ideas on how to make it work?

That is the exact problem i had. I moved the mounting point to underneath the lca instead of on top. You might have to take a grinder and grind it flat and make some clearance for the rod end. Once i did that, i have had zero issues with it. I have made 40+ passes on 24.5" slicks and it is still holding fine.