I've been Asked a lot of times about how hard it was to install these and what is needed in order for these things to work. A couple of people have tried calling my bluff to tell me that i fold them in manually during photoshoots.....well here it is ladies and gents. The coveted information and proof of installation. In this thread i will give a detailed description on how to wire up your power-fold mirrors.
Expect this to be close to a 5 hour job. Well if your Macgyver maybe cut this estimate in half. But i spent close to that getting these installed.
Tools / Supplies you will need:
Phillips Screwdriver
Flathead Screwdriver
Paperclip
A Hanger
16 Guage Wire
Electrical end caps / Terminal Connectors
Eletrical Tape
Wire strippers
White Lithium Grease
Zip Ties
General Knowledge:
To start off I'm going to explain what is needed in order for these to work properly. First off, make sure both mirrors are for the proper chassis code. Surprisingly enough there is a difference between the mirrors that come on a CE1/CD5 and a CD7. For those of you unfamiliar with chassis codes thats, the wagon/sedan and a coupe. Sometimes you will find them labeled for a CD6 or CD8 these are the JDM counterparts for a sedan and coupe accordingly. Little do most know, but the different chassis had a different bolt pattern for the mounting locations. Also make sure your mirrors come with the pigtails or a.k.a harnesses. Sometimes you run into an issue with your stock connectors, therefore, having spares available for disposal is always a plus.
Another thing to make sure your set includes is the relay. Although these are readily available at some after market retailers, most of the time they show none in stock. Again make sure the harness and the connector come with your relay.
One last thing to check for with your set is the mirror switch. These were only available only in Japan. So the chance of you coming by another one is slim to none. Again make sure your switch comes with the connector and the pigtail.
Troubles you might run into with your set. I bought my set from an Un-reputable buyer via ebay. I managed to receive a set that had one mirror for a coupe and one mirror for a sedan. Not to mention that the outer casings on the ones i received were scratch infested and looking a little shi^^y. So i ended up trying to take the mirrors apart to do some part swapping with my stock mirrors. This is when i found that the outer casing of the mirrors will come off of the mount. This requires you to unscrew the connector, and the three screws from the bottom of the exterior side of the mirror mounting plate. Keep in mind these screws have been sitting on your car since the time it left the dealership. Make sure to soak them in liquid wrench or wd-40 before you attempt to remove them. Once out, your mount still isn't free. The connector is a little too big to to fit through the hole in the mounting plate. So you must de-pin the connector (explained later in the thread)
Dismantled Mirror Casing / Motor / Mount Plate

There is no need to repaint the mirrors you ordered. All exterior parts of the mirrors themselves are interchangeable including the casing and the mount. I have included a picture of them, as well as, drawn a diagram to show the differences between chassis.
Coupe/Left : Sedan & Wagon / Right

Why your Sedan Powerfolds might not fit on your Coupe and vice/versa

Make sure not to crack the mirror plate or the glass itself. I was retarded enough to do this myself and i ended up purchasing a second set of mirrors because the electric motors behind the plate (the ones that move the mirror up, down, and diagonally) are not the same as stock. These motors are also unavailable at the dealership. The diagrams from the dealership show the part number's that you would need but they have either been discontinued or the dealer is unable to order them for you.
To start make sure to take the proper fuse out of the fuse box located under the drivers side dash. I believe it is fuse number 7. Your going to need to do this otherwise you will blow the original fuse because of power impedance when plugging in the relay. Always remember to plug it back in when your done, otherwise you'll question why your mirrors aren't working (you've got a blown fuse). You may want to upgrade the existing 7.5 amp fuse to a 10 amp fuse as well. I found that keeping the 7.5 in there was not sufficient enough for the power needed to run the relay. It continually burned out. Since i've had the 10amp in there i haven't run into a problem.
Take both door panels off. This should be self explanatory........other wise i think there might be a link somewhere in the accord FAQ. Take off that weather sealer piece of plastic that covers the door (no need to remove the whole thing just the area around the speaker and master lock switch). Also be sure to remove those speakers. Your going to need the room and lighting to run the wires.
Remove the old mirror switch from the door handle. Don't throw this away......you may never know, someday your power folds wont work and you wont be able to adjust them because your switch doesn't work......always a good thing to have a spare. If you feel inclined, sell it on Ebay for a quick 5 bucks in your pocket
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Running the two wires to the other door. In order to do this without it looking like a hack job your going to need about 16' (more if you feel the need(excess can be snipped)) of 16 gauge electrical wire and a hanger. The hanger will be used to run the wire through the doors wire channels to the interior and across to the other door. I didn't need to drill any holes. On the door side of the channel i simple unplugged the connectors and ran the wires through what space was available. Don't worry about the boot, you will be able to cover everything back up when done. Once the two wires are through the door, you need to grab your hanger. Disconnect the boot from the body side and run your hanger through the channel. Once through make a little hook at the one end of the hanger. Attach the wires to the hook and pull the hanger through the channel. Once through you can run the wires in through the hole on the body side of the channel. Reach your hands up above the fuse box on the drivers side of the interior and feed the wires till you can get your grip on them. Once you have a grip on the wires you can pull through. Now there are a few different places you can run the wires through the dashboard. I choose to stick with a more simple method and run them over the steering column down to the back side of the center console and at the other end back up through the underside of the glove box. This should be pretty self explanatory if you follow the main harnesses in your dashboard. Once you've reached the passenger side you'll find the opening for the passenger side door harness. Again on the outside of the car pull the boot off and feed the wires through and repeat the process explained above in reverse using your hanger with the hook to feed the wires through the boot and into the passenger side door. Leave the wires alone till last.
Your going to have to know how to de-pin a connector. This is where a paperclip and white lithium grease will come in handy. Some connectors have a clip holding pins in place others don't. Study each connector carefully before jamming any sort of stabbing utensil in. This will save you the headache of having to replace connectors and/or pins. These power folds required me to switch a few pins around on all sides of the harness including the relay, the switch, and both mirrors. This is due to the fact the the mirror switch from japan had different color wires and as you know belongs on the right hand side of the car. So everything may seem backwards, and its going to take a little trial and error with the pins before you get your mirrors to move up when you push up, move down when you push down, and move diagonally when diagonal is pushed. If you care less about which way they move when you hit the button, "just as long as they are still adjustable" you can disregard this last paragraph. I'm just a perfectionist, so doing this was "required"
De-Pinning the connector.


Where to install the relay. Well you might want to keep your drivers side window intact and fully operational. So putting the relay behind the door skin isn't an option unless you want your windows to roll half way down "uhm no". Most relays come with a metal bracket which you can mount to the underside of the dashboard. I did not want to go through the hassle of running extra wires to the interior, so I took off the bracket off and installed it (with a little modification to fitment) underneath the master lock switch.

Wiring Diagram

Colors do not correspond with colors of wire's on the harnesses themselves. This is just to show which pins need to go where and what wires need to be spliced.
Installed Powerfold Mirrors And Switch w/relay
YAY for extra buttons and more functions 
Low Quality Vid of Mirrors In action.

Modified by HateBreeder at 2:39 PM 7/26/2007
Modified by HateBreeder at 2:40 PM 7/26/2007
F/S - Advan Touring Comp's
http://www.hondamarketplace.co...89684Advan Siena, Refurb
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2058609