Bearing Clearance Measurement - Honda-Tech

Combustion Contraption · 07-30-2006, 07:44 PM

I see alot of posts on this forum regarding confusion about bearing clearances, how to measure them , whether or not to use plasti-gauge, and whether or not ACL is a good or bad choice to go with. I was doing a little work today and decided to take some pics and write this up to maybe help some people out.

This is what youll need. A properly sized micrometer, in this case 2-3"; a notepad to keep track of your findings, and a dial bore gauge. (You can alternatively use telescoping snap gauges or an inside mic if you dont have a dial bore gauge, but i feel this is a bit more accurate.) You will also note the standard next to the mic, this is used to calibrate the micrometer.

Here you can see i set the mic to 2.1650", which is right around where the main bearing house bore will be, give or take a few 10 thou. The purpose of this is to set the gauge as close as possible to the final reading without bottoming out the needle.

Here i have placed the gauge in a vice using rubber protectors, and compressed the needle to 2.1650". This is very tricky and should not be done without a vice. Next you zero out the indicator as it sits on 2.1650

With that done, i placed the a green OEM honda bearing in the main bearing cap and saddle. OEM Green are right in the middle of the thickness, and if you have a thickness chart, you can take the readings you get from this excercise and add or subtract clearance as necessary to end up where you want. If you dont have any bearings handy, you can measure the bearing bore without the bearings, then use a thickness chart from there to figure what the clearance would be.

Here im lubing up the thread of the main cap bolts with the same lubricant that will be used during the final assembly, 10w-30 oil. Be sure to follow the factory 2 step torque procedure for the cap.

Once you have the cap tightened down, rock the gauge back and forth until you find the tightest spot on the gauge, making sure you are 90 deg. from the crank centerline. If you are off, obviously the needle will have to travel farther and youre reading will be that you have more clearance than you actually do. Since i set the gauge for 2.1650" , i managed to get a reading of 0 on the dial bore gauge, meaning the bearing bore was exactly 2.1650". If it had moved a tick to the left, i would have been at 2.1645 (the gauge reads in .0005 increments), and if it moved to the right, would have been 2.1655.

Next you would mic the crank (which i havent done yet) but for example we'll say its
2.1635". That would mean i have .0015" clearance. If i wanted more, i would substitue a thinner bearing, less i would sub. a thicker bearing.

I personally like to set clearances on a motor this way and use plastigauge to verify results. Some people swear by plastigauge all the way. Im not saying theyre wrong, and im not saying im right, im saying theres more than one way to skin a cat.

Where ACL's can hurt you is their lack of adjustability. If you have a machined crank, and one journal needs a bit more clearance, then you might not be able to achieve this with the ACL's. If everything checks out good with the ACL's clearance, wise, they are an excellent bearing for the money, and there is no reason not to use them. Hope this helps.

akura404 · 07-30-2006, 08:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Combustion Contraption

Where ACL's can hurt you is their lack of adjustability. If you have a machined crank, and one journal needs a bit more clearance, then you might not be able to achieve this with the ACL's. If everything checks out good with the ACL's clearance, wise, they are an excellent bearing for the money, and there is no reason not to use them. Hope this helps.

Your exactly right my friend. ACL bearing may and may not be for you. You have to check those clearances to see what will work for you. I had to learn it the hard way.

91SiZ6 · 07-30-2006, 11:46 PM

Great write up. If you need brown/green/yellow clearance bearings, ACLs are a great choice. I personally prefer OEM for everything possible. Over-kill, I know, but what can ya' do? :D

black_EM1 · 07-31-2006, 04:54 AM

There I go learning again.

97CTR · 07-31-2006, 05:29 AM

Nice write up man, I think I have that same bore gauge!

turbociv · 07-31-2006, 05:29 AM

wow, you dont see many good posts like this one. I think one of the biggest problem when it comes to using micrometers and such is that people dont know how to read/understand them. Maybe you can shed some light on that as well.

:tup: to a great post.

DonF · 07-31-2006, 12:43 PM

Is that your "wet-flow" flow bench the tools are laying on?

Combustion Contraption · 07-31-2006, 06:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DonF

Is that your "wet-flow" flow bench the tools are laying on?

the secret is out!

Combustion Contraption · 08-02-2006, 09:31 PM

Everyone understands the basic concept and how to apply it to rod bearing measurement?

ITR#132 · 08-02-2006, 09:47 PM

It would be great to also include the bearing color thickness measurements with this thread.

Combustion Contraption · 08-02-2006, 11:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ITR#132

It would be great to also include the bearing color thickness measurements with this thread.

*applicable to B and K*

Main Bearing thickness by color
Blue 2.013-2.010 mm 0.0793”- 0.0791”
Black 2.010-2.007 mm 0.0791”- 0.0790”
Brown 2.007-2.004 mm 0.0790”- 0.0789”
Green 2.004-2.001 mm 0.0789”- 0.0788”
Yellow 2.001-1.998 mm 0.0788”- 0.0787”
Pink 1.998-1.995 mm 0.0787”- 0.0785”
Red 1.995-1.992 mm 0.0785”- 0.0783”

Rod bearing thickness by color
Blue 1.510-1.507 mm 0.0594”- 0.0593”
Black 1.507-1.504 mm 0.0593”- 0.0592”
Brown 1.504-1.501 mm 0.0592”- 0.0591”
Green 1.501-1.498 mm 0.0591”- 0.0590”
Yellow 1.498-1.495 mm 0.0590”- 0.0589”
Pink 1.495-1.492 mm 0.0589”- 0.0587”
Red 1.492-1.489 mm 0.0587”- 0.0586”

BERT-O · 08-03-2006, 08:49 AM

Furyof4 · 08-03-2006, 09:28 AM

Nice little write up.

Tbone · 08-03-2006, 08:20 PM

I do it slightly fifferent.
I mic the crank
Then set by bore gauge as you described witth a micrometer with the bore gauge in a vise/holder and set the dial to 0.
So now your bore gauge is set to the exact crank thickness at 0
Then stick it in the tq'd cap with bearing and read the gauge , the difference it moved away from 0 is your clearance.

Combustion Contraption · 08-03-2006, 08:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tbone

I do it slightly fifferent.
I mic the crank
Then set by bore gauge as you described witth a micrometer with the bore gauge in a vise/holder and set the dial to 0.
So now your bore gauge is set to the exact crank thickness at 0
Then stick it in the tq'd cap with bearing and read the gauge , the difference it moved away from 0 is your clearance.

DOH!

I was taught that way when i first learned, and this is the method you should use if you have the crank handy, during the process of this write up i did not...

DonF · 08-04-2006, 11:39 AM

The problem with using a dial bore guage with bearings in the rod is that you usally leave marks or scratches on the soft bearing. We mic the crank, dial bore the rod (torqued) check bearing thickness (x 2) add and subtract.

Combustion Contraption · 08-04-2006, 08:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DonF

The problem with using a dial bore guage with bearings in the rod is that you usally leave marks or scratches on the soft bearing. We mic the crank, dial bore the rod (torqued) check bearing thickness (x 2) add and subtract.

Yeah, i keep a set of OEM bearings that i use just for measurement. For this reason exactly, they scratch. The K ones (coated) scratch VERY easily.

Tbone · 08-06-2006, 10:17 AM

I coat my bearings so the small scratches dont hurt anything, they are gone once things are ready to be assembled.

rochesterricer · 08-06-2006, 10:24 PM

The REAL question is: do ACLs take stains out of your clothes as good as OEMs?

Combustion Contraption · 08-06-2006, 11:40 PM

Better than you know pal.

b19coupe · 08-07-2006, 05:34 AM

Good info

AllMTRWH0R3 · 10-23-2006, 11:02 PM

great stuff. This will help alot of people

S@nt0s · 10-24-2006, 09:49 AM

07-30-2006, 11:46 PM	#3
91SiZ6 Join Date: May 2006 Location: California, United States Posts: 961	Great write up. If you need brown/green/yellow clearance bearings, ACLs are a great choice. I personally prefer OEM for everything possible. Over-kill, I know, but what can ya' do? :D __________________ ArtieTuned D16Z6 135.6whp 111.8tq. http://www.LSDMotorSports.com http://www.RyWire.com http://www.CTRDynoSports http://www.ArtieTuned.com http://www.J-K-Tuning.com

07-31-2006, 04:54 AM	#4
black_EM1 Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: www.Kills.com, ShutUpYouRetard Posts: 2,441	Re: (91SiZ6) There I go learning again. __________________ -Charles- [ B00STED EM1 CREW #27] Kills Pirate. For Life. PeakBoost powered. 418hp/259tq@17psi PoorMan's R 336hp/223tq@15psi Bone Stock B18C

07-31-2006, 05:29 AM	#5
97CTR Join Date: May 2003 Location: NH Posts: 141	Re: (black_EM1) Nice write up man, I think I have that same bore gauge! __________________ 97 coupe w/ctr swap Porflow http://images.honda-tech.com/set1/smile/emthup.gif Benson's http://images.honda-tech.com/set1/smile/emthup.gif

07-31-2006, 05:29 AM	#6
turbociv Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: buffalo, new york, united states Posts: 912	wow, you dont see many good posts like this one. I think one of the biggest problem when it comes to using micrometers and such is that people dont know how to read/understand them. Maybe you can shed some light on that as well. :tup: to a great post. __________________ Im starting a reference list, so bare with me: junkyardd16z6, Domani 2.0, blackstar, mackspeed-616, topspeed86

07-31-2006, 12:43 PM	#7
DonF Senior Member Join Date: May 2002 Location: Atl. Beach, fl, duval Posts: 4,701	Re: (turbociv) Is that your "wet-flow" flow bench the tools are laying on?

07-30-2006, 07:44 PM	#1
Combustion Contraption Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: So Cal Posts: 8,534	Bearing Clearance Measurement I see alot of posts on this forum regarding confusion about bearing clearances, how to measure them , whether or not to use plasti-gauge, and whether or not ACL is a good or bad choice to go with. I was doing a little work today and decided to take some pics and write this up to maybe help some people out. This is what youll need. A properly sized micrometer, in this case 2-3"; a notepad to keep track of your findings, and a dial bore gauge. (You can alternatively use telescoping snap gauges or an inside mic if you dont have a dial bore gauge, but i feel this is a bit more accurate.) You will also note the standard next to the mic, this is used to calibrate the micrometer. Here you can see i set the mic to 2.1650", which is right around where the main bearing house bore will be, give or take a few 10 thou. The purpose of this is to set the gauge as close as possible to the final reading without bottoming out the needle. Here i have placed the gauge in a vice using rubber protectors, and compressed the needle to 2.1650". This is very tricky and should not be done without a vice. Next you zero out the indicator as it sits on 2.1650 With that done, i placed the a green OEM honda bearing in the main bearing cap and saddle. OEM Green are right in the middle of the thickness, and if you have a thickness chart, you can take the readings you get from this excercise and add or subtract clearance as necessary to end up where you want. If you dont have any bearings handy, you can measure the bearing bore without the bearings, then use a thickness chart from there to figure what the clearance would be. Here im lubing up the thread of the main cap bolts with the same lubricant that will be used during the final assembly, 10w-30 oil. Be sure to follow the factory 2 step torque procedure for the cap. Once you have the cap tightened down, rock the gauge back and forth until you find the tightest spot on the gauge, making sure you are 90 deg. from the crank centerline. If you are off, obviously the needle will have to travel farther and youre reading will be that you have more clearance than you actually do. Since i set the gauge for 2.1650" , i managed to get a reading of 0 on the dial bore gauge, meaning the bearing bore was exactly 2.1650". If it had moved a tick to the left, i would have been at 2.1645 (the gauge reads in .0005 increments), and if it moved to the right, would have been 2.1655. Next you would mic the crank (which i havent done yet) but for example we'll say its 2.1635". That would mean i have .0015" clearance. If i wanted more, i would substitue a thinner bearing, less i would sub. a thicker bearing. I personally like to set clearances on a motor this way and use plastigauge to verify results. Some people swear by plastigauge all the way. Im not saying theyre wrong, and im not saying im right, im saying theres more than one way to skin a cat. Where ACL's can hurt you is their lack of adjustability. If you have a machined crank, and one journal needs a bit more clearance, then you might not be able to achieve this with the ACL's. If everything checks out good with the ACL's clearance, wise, they are an excellent bearing for the money, and there is no reason not to use them. Hope this helps. __________________ EARL LASKEY, YOU WILL BE MISSED CCCylinderheads.com Check out the INDUCTION SPECIAL Matco Doublebay Toolbox FOR SALE Click Here!

08-02-2006, 09:31 PM	#9
Combustion Contraption Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: So Cal Posts: 8,534	Everyone understands the basic concept and how to apply it to rod bearing measurement? __________________ EARL LASKEY, YOU WILL BE MISSED CCCylinderheads.com Check out the INDUCTION SPECIAL Matco Doublebay Toolbox FOR SALE Click Here!

08-02-2006, 09:47 PM	#10
ITR#132 Join Date: Oct 2001 Posts: 1,186	Re: (Combustion Contraption) It would be great to also include the bearing color thickness measurements with this thread. __________________ FOR SALE -Stock ITR shocks w/skunk2 coilovers -JDM ITR(non-hid) headlights (like new condition) -B&M Edge short shifter w/bushings -JDM Red Recaros w/Vision seat rails -ITR front caliper set -Hypertech Shogun Power Tuner 96-OBD2 plugs -COMPTECH Drop in Air Filter 94-up Integra

08-03-2006, 08:49 AM	#12
BERT-O HT White Ops Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: BRADENTON, FL, USA Posts: 5,264	Re: Bearing Clearance Measurement (Combustion Contraption) __________________ No longer active with any Honda dealerships at the moment. Economy has effected my jobloss, lol

08-03-2006, 09:28 AM	#13
Furyof4 Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: SE, PA, usa Posts: 902	Re: Bearing Clearance Measurement (BERT-O) Nice little write up.

08-03-2006, 08:20 PM	#14
Tbone Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: North East Posts: 5,174	Re: (Combustion Contraption) I do it slightly fifferent. I mic the crank Then set by bore gauge as you described witth a micrometer with the bore gauge in a vise/holder and set the dial to 0. So now your bore gauge is set to the exact crank thickness at 0 Then stick it in the tq'd cap with bearing and read the gauge , the difference it moved away from 0 is your clearance. __________________ Coatings expert Project 300 .280 whp on RLz's dyno oh yeah!!! test passes netted 11.2 @ 124 ish, needs traction 11.78@114.9 Full street car(238whp then) http://www.Bristoldyno.com

08-04-2006, 11:39 AM	#16
DonF Senior Member Join Date: May 2002 Location: Atl. Beach, fl, duval Posts: 4,701	Re: (Combustion Contraption) The problem with using a dial bore guage with bearings in the rod is that you usally leave marks or scratches on the soft bearing. We mic the crank, dial bore the rod (torqued) check bearing thickness (x 2) add and subtract.

08-06-2006, 10:17 AM	#18
Tbone Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: North East Posts: 5,174	Re: (Combustion Contraption) I coat my bearings so the small scratches dont hurt anything, they are gone once things are ready to be assembled. __________________ Coatings expert Project 300 .280 whp on RLz's dyno oh yeah!!! test passes netted 11.2 @ 124 ish, needs traction 11.78@114.9 Full street car(238whp then) http://www.Bristoldyno.com

08-06-2006, 10:24 PM	#19
rochesterricer HT White Ops Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Rochester, MN, US Posts: 7,058	Re: Bearing Clearance Measurement (Combustion Contraption) The REAL question is: do ACLs take stains out of your clothes as good as OEMs? __________________ "It is curious that physical courage should be so common in the world, and moral courage so rare." --- Mark Twain "Everything in the world may be endured except continued prosperity." --- Johann Wolfgang von Goethe

08-06-2006, 11:40 PM	#20
Combustion Contraption Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: So Cal Posts: 8,534	Better than you know pal. __________________ EARL LASKEY, YOU WILL BE MISSED CCCylinderheads.com Check out the INDUCTION SPECIAL Matco Doublebay Toolbox FOR SALE Click Here!

08-07-2006, 05:34 AM	#21
b19coupe Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Southern, California, U.S.A. Posts: 9,299	Re: (Combustion Contraption) Good info __________________ C.A.T.

10-23-2006, 11:02 PM	#22
AllMTRWH0R3 Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Deceptive, CA 805, Jerry Built NA. Posts: 2,974	Re: (b19coupe) great stuff. This will help alot of people __________________ "The One & Only" Deceptive 805 Jerry Built

10-24-2006, 09:49 AM	#23
S@nt0s Your Future STEP DAD!!!! Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: PUTTIN UR MOUTH ON CURBZ 310, SoCal Posts: 22,402	Re: (AllMTRWH0R3) __________________ If NISMO stands for NISsan MOtorsport,what do they call HOnda MOtorsport MUNKY W3RKZ INC BISIMOTO ENGINEERING CAMP1320