slowesteg

iTrader: (8)

im gonna pick up some volk se37 tomorrow just want to make sure these are real volks as the guy says they are (traveling 3hrs to pick them up). how do i tell if there fake or real? what do i look for? i know theres konig networks that look pretty close to volk se37.

toyomatt84

iTrader: (1)

They should state "FORGED" and "RAYS ENG" in between the spokes near the lip.

slowesteg

iTrader: (8)

Thanks Yeah they were real. Got them for a killer deal too

toyomatt84

iTrader: (1)

Congrat's!

bogaut

easiest way to tell usually is throw them on a scale. volks will always be lightest.

TracerAcer2.2L

How in the world is that easiest. Who just carries a scale around with them for weighing wheels.

Easiest way is to see if it has rays eng stamped on it as already stated. Common sense I think

apexapexapex

iTrader: (1)

Also, the bronze is anodized and not powerdcoated. The lip is a smooth while the center is textured.

toyomatt84

iTrader: (1)

That's not necessarily a 100% tell though. You can anodize a knock-off wheel to replicate the finish of the Volk's.

apexapexapex

iTrader: (1)

That's very true but it'll cost too much to fake the machined lip and textured centers. Even then, I'm confident this is a better advice than to check for the raised lettering.

TracerAcer2.2L

Haha explain that please

toyomatt84

iTrader: (1)

I'm sorry, but you're wrong. Polishing the lip on a cast wheel, then having it anodized is far from difficult. In fact, I actually have seen it done.

However, when referring to the specific markings I mentioned above... they're EXCLUSIVE to the original Volk Racing SE37K's. There aren't any replicas out there sporting the same raised lettering along the face near the barrel.

apexapexapex

iTrader: (1)

I never said anything about polishing. I'm talking about machining the lip so there are two textures. I've seen both as you've said since I've sold Volks for years and even until this day. They're always sending out notices on when a certain rep is out and what to look for. There's no sure way but for them to do two textures on one wheel and then matching the machine work and anodizing is much more difficult than to cast markings on a wheel.

toyomatt84

iTrader: (1)

Polishing and machining achieve the same goal in this case. To remove the casting marks from the porous aluminum surface. It's not terribly difficult to polish or machine the lip of a wheel. I've done both. To make a plug for a mold, to replicate the lettering on the barrel of a wheel, is far more difficult then to just grab some sandpaper and use a little elbow grease. Replicating the symmetry of the surface finish isn't terribly challenging either, since you can mock up a jig to spin the wheel for you.