TIG problems
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TIG problems
Just trying out my Miller Synchrowave 200 for first time
Material 18awg stainless steel sheet - 90 deg corner joint (outside)
tungsten: 3/32
filler: 1/16 308L
max amps setting: 50
shielding gas: 100% argon
pressure: 17 CFH
First time I tried just laying the filler rod flat in the joint. I expected it to flow into the base material and give me a decent radius effect, but rather it appeared to be more of a floating bubble above the joint (although it did make at least some penetration). After I saw this, I cleaned and took another pass with a little more heat, so see if the raised material i already laid down would flow and flatten out. But it still didn't want to flow. I could see a good puddle, and while looking at the puddle it appeared to flatten, but after stopping it still appeared to be a raised bead. I tried slowing down and burning a hole just to make sure I was at the edge of giving enough heat, and I think my 50 amp setting was correct. What do I need to do to get a good penetration/radius where it appears like it was a natural seem minus the ripples that I would sand smooth?
Second question, it appears that there is a thin layer of grey slag over all of the filler welds i layed down (whether it be just putting filler down on the surface or actually jointing). I did not see any weld that the filler appeared shiny. Is this a sign of something wrong with my input to the weld, or a characterist of the specific filler material I am using?
Sorry no pics at this time.
Modified by Andy R at 12:18 PM 4/28/2008
Material 18awg stainless steel sheet - 90 deg corner joint (outside)
tungsten: 3/32
filler: 1/16 308L
max amps setting: 50
shielding gas: 100% argon
pressure: 17 CFH
First time I tried just laying the filler rod flat in the joint. I expected it to flow into the base material and give me a decent radius effect, but rather it appeared to be more of a floating bubble above the joint (although it did make at least some penetration). After I saw this, I cleaned and took another pass with a little more heat, so see if the raised material i already laid down would flow and flatten out. But it still didn't want to flow. I could see a good puddle, and while looking at the puddle it appeared to flatten, but after stopping it still appeared to be a raised bead. I tried slowing down and burning a hole just to make sure I was at the edge of giving enough heat, and I think my 50 amp setting was correct. What do I need to do to get a good penetration/radius where it appears like it was a natural seem minus the ripples that I would sand smooth?
Second question, it appears that there is a thin layer of grey slag over all of the filler welds i layed down (whether it be just putting filler down on the surface or actually jointing). I did not see any weld that the filler appeared shiny. Is this a sign of something wrong with my input to the weld, or a characterist of the specific filler material I am using?
Sorry no pics at this time.
Modified by Andy R at 12:18 PM 4/28/2008
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Re: TIG problems (Andy R)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Andy R »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just trying out my Miller Synchrowave 200 for first time
Material 18awg stainless steel sheet - 90 deg corner joint (outside)
tungsten: 3/16
filler: 1/16 308L
max amps setting: 50
shielding gas: 100% argon
pressure: 17psi
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Get 3/32 tungsten for starters. Filler should be .035 for that thin of material. And gas flow is measured in CFH (cubic feet per hour), not PSI. If the weld is dull and grey it means you have too much heat, bad gas coverage, or both.
Material 18awg stainless steel sheet - 90 deg corner joint (outside)
tungsten: 3/16
filler: 1/16 308L
max amps setting: 50
shielding gas: 100% argon
pressure: 17psi
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Get 3/32 tungsten for starters. Filler should be .035 for that thin of material. And gas flow is measured in CFH (cubic feet per hour), not PSI. If the weld is dull and grey it means you have too much heat, bad gas coverage, or both.
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Re: TIG problems (k24em2)
sorry, typo's
it is 3/32 tungsten and 17 CFH
#8 Cup
tungsten sticking out 3/16" from cup
tungsten sharpened while chucked in cordless drill and using 48" belt sander
As for the gas, I noticed with this new tank and regulator, that when I press the pedal, tank output pressure was dropping some, so I dialed the regulator in to 17 CFH with the pedal depressed. I noticed sometimes that when welding (pedal depressed) for longer period of time than 5-10 seconds, it would drop even lower and jump around. Although during these events, gas coming out of the torch sounded even. Torch cable was not bunched, tank valve full open, no leaks at tank or machine.
it is 3/32 tungsten and 17 CFH
#8 Cup
tungsten sticking out 3/16" from cup
tungsten sharpened while chucked in cordless drill and using 48" belt sander
As for the gas, I noticed with this new tank and regulator, that when I press the pedal, tank output pressure was dropping some, so I dialed the regulator in to 17 CFH with the pedal depressed. I noticed sometimes that when welding (pedal depressed) for longer period of time than 5-10 seconds, it would drop even lower and jump around. Although during these events, gas coming out of the torch sounded even. Torch cable was not bunched, tank valve full open, no leaks at tank or machine.
#4
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Re: TIG problems (Andy R)
are you sure what you are welding is stainless, im assuming you think its 304 because of the 308 rod you are using, could it be another grade? and does it doesnt have some sort of coating on it?
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Re: TIG problems (.john.)
I guess i didn't specify when I ordered it from my local steel supplier. I just asked for 18 awg stainless steel sheet. I did a search on the net for sheet steel and it appeared the common grade was 304 (thus the 308 filler). Cleaned with acetone, brushed with new ss brush. I can't imagine it has any coating on it.
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Re: TIG problems (Andy R)
I also remember after some of the welds I noticed a slight crackling noise as if the metal was moving (assuming expansion from the heat then cooling down). And tiny bits of the grey dull coating were shooting from the surface, making the crackling noise. Since i'm new to TIG, i have no idea if that is normal or not.
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Re: TIG problems (Andy R)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Andy R »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">As for the gas, I noticed with this new tank and regulator, that when I press the pedal, tank output pressure was dropping some, so I dialed the regulator in to 17 CFH with the pedal depressed. I noticed sometimes that when welding (pedal depressed) for longer period of time than 5-10 seconds, it would drop even lower and jump around. Although during these events, gas coming out of the torch sounded even. Torch cable was not bunched, tank valve full open, no leaks at tank or machine.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Has anyone come across this jumpy/dropping regulator gas problem? Brand new regulator supplied with the Miller Synchrowave 200 Runner package. Sprayed soapy water on all connections, no leaks. When not depressed tank output pressure at like 30-35 CFH, will immediately drop to ~18 when pedal depressed than gradually drop even further and sometimes i noticed the noise of the needle bouncing off 0 stop. Is everyone else having to compensate for this immediate drop in pressure?
Has anyone come across this jumpy/dropping regulator gas problem? Brand new regulator supplied with the Miller Synchrowave 200 Runner package. Sprayed soapy water on all connections, no leaks. When not depressed tank output pressure at like 30-35 CFH, will immediately drop to ~18 when pedal depressed than gradually drop even further and sometimes i noticed the noise of the needle bouncing off 0 stop. Is everyone else having to compensate for this immediate drop in pressure?
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#9
Re: TIG problems (Andy R)
Andy you're not getting good gas coverage. Something is not right with your regulator. The popping you're getting is lack of argon and makes for the poor welds. You may want to try taking off your regulator and putting it back on, you may have to purge the line.
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Re: TIG problems (Trickle X)
simple way to set your gas pressaure is to hold the torch away from anything thats metal and press the foot pedal, watch the gas flow meter and then ajust it. if you arent welding the floating ball will drop back down, once you hit the foot pedal it will shoot back up to what ever pressaure u set it at.
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Re: TIG problems (GT35R_EF)
Thanks for the responces. As for my regulator, the one that came with the welder was just a stardard dual dial guage unit. Same model of regulator i've got on my Argon/Co2 tank for my MIG i've been using without problem for 2-3 years. I haven't had much time to work on this, been working on digging and laying a patio after work.
#12
Re: TIG problems (Andy R)
Also make sure you have the right gas. I've asked for argon and got laser gas before. That sucked.
Also, a 1/16 tungsten will make things a bit easier as well.
Ian
Also, a 1/16 tungsten will make things a bit easier as well.
Ian
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Re: TIG problems (GT35R_EF)
or you could hold the button under the amperage control(has an "a"above it) to set your gas flow. turn on your welder and press and hold for about 2 seconds and the gas will start flowing and adjust as needed.i also had problems with the gas meter when i got my sync200.i got the floating ball type meter.hope this helps.
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