JerseySiPOS

iTrader: (2)

I've had this broken header bolt stuck inside my b16 head for about 4 years now and worked without it, so it needed to come out, and i drilled it, used a black and decker extractor, and it broke in the hole that i drilled in the center of the broken stud. Not one drill bit was able to drill through it.

So i drilled around the broken stud, hoping to use a pair of pliers to twist it out, and also tried to JB Weld a nut and a pipe fitting to the broken stud, and that didn't work either!!

Is taking the head off the next option? Take it to a machine shop, fill, and retap??

Or do i have anymore options??

.RTErnie

you could try to have someone weld a piece of steel to it...then use it as like a perma-wrench. I've done this before on big torque bits that I didn't want to buy a socket for. or...get a hole saw lol and take that ****** out. And I think they have heli-coil? things where they thread into teh head and then have a inner thread portion for your stud to go. good luck.

EGJDM

Try using a left hand cobalt bit.

0PSI2HI

Take it to a weld/machine shop and they will burn/cut it out for you them just have them redrill and tap it.

JerseySiPOS

iTrader: (2)

hmmm, im tempted to take the head off and take it to a machine shop, but will they go to the extent of taking it out, filling it, sanding, and retapping it for a reasonable price? ill ask my head porter about it, but good info on trying to take it out with the head on.

the hole saw sounds like a good idea, but what's a left hand cobalt bit? i used every home depot bit brand, and they worked to get through the aluminum, just not through the broken extractor, so im stuck with that suspended stud...

JerseySiPOS

iTrader: (2)

is there a local auto store that sells heli-coils?

GPNY

Same thing happened to me. I got a few 1/8 Inch Shank pointed CARBIDE Bits. You'll need to use a die grinder and grind the extractor out. I had to make a new stud after M10 for the head, M8 for the Manifold

8mpg

I take all my motors to a guy here locally and he charges $10 a bolt. He usually welds some scrap steel on them and heats them with a torch really well and they come right out.

gritsak

i broke off one of those extractor bits inside a bolt before too. Almost impossible to get through.

What i did was use my air die grinder and carbide bits to grind my way through it. Keep in mind if you do this your going to be able to just run a tap through the hole...the griding will probably take way to much of the meat off the walls so you will need to get it welded/redrilled or use another trick. good luck

G2turbo_terror

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GPNY &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Same thing happened to me. I got a few 1/8 Inch Shank pointed CARBIDE Bits. You'll need to use a die grinder and grind the extractor out. I had to make a new stud after M10 for the head, M8 for the Manifold</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thats exactly what happend to me and how I solved the problem. I tried every thing and theres no way your gonna drill that out unless the heads off and its in a drill press.

snoochtodanooch

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EGJDM &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Try using a left hand cobalt bit.</TD></TR></TABLE>

soo true, just get one of those ******* to bite hard and it will come out.

snoochtodanooch

oh and as a reply to the original poster, don't use and easy out or whatever unless you are positive it will work. I made the mistake of tapping something by hand at my old job, a very complex and expensive cnc part at that. I broke the tap, and that is hardened just like the easy outs are. And in case any of you know, this was an interference fit threaded hole, so yea, it took me a while to get that tap out....

stackz

wow, you really fucked that thing up lol!

you have an air compressor and a circular grinder with a carbide wheel??

try cutting a groove in it and using a large flatblade screwdriver.

Calvinator

I was in the same situation as you, but I got the stud out, my cousin put in a helicoil and installed it crooked, so now im stuck with an oversized hole, and im not sure what to do. Time-sert? I dont know what my other options are since the hole is oversized now for an m8x1.25 helicoil.

8mpg

take it to a machine shop and have them fill and redrill/tap it.

snoochtodanooch

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by xtremeazian &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I was in the same situation as you, but I got the stud out, my cousin put in a helicoil and installed it crooked, so now im stuck with an oversized hole, and im not sure what to do. Time-sert? I dont know what my other options are since the hole is oversized now for an m8x1.25 helicoil.</TD></TR></TABLE>

you may be able to oversize it once more to accept a Keen-Sert. Look into it.

Calvinator

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 8mpg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">take it to a machine shop and have them fill and redrill/tap it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

How much do you think it would cost around? Probably more than buying a new bare gsr head, haha

Calvinator

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by snoochtodanooch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

you may be able to oversize it once more to accept a Keen-Sert. Look into it. </TD></TR></TABLE>

ok thanks, ill look into that. It must be similar to the Big-sert kit from time-sert.

8mpg

lol... my machine shop would have charged $10/bolt to remove it to begin with. Its usually better to take it to get done professionally when its an expensive piece (like heads or a block) than to mess it up more trying then end up taking to them in the end.

To weld it and drill/tap cant be that bad...im guessin $50-60 now

LBHgti

Those long extractors that fit in a tap handle are pretty much worthless. The tool trucks have a set that are real short and use a 13mm hex on them. I've only broken the smallest one, and it was my fault, not the fault of the tool. They're pretty much bulletproof if you use the correct size for the bolt you are working with.

Now to solve the problem at hand. The only way you will ever be able to drill that extractor out is with a carbide tipped drill bit. Don't waste your money on a cobalt bit because it will be destroyed as soon as you attempt to drill the extractor with it. You might also try to heat the stud/extractor...but you have to use an oxy/acetalene torch, with a very small tip and a very fine, hot flame to concentrate the head in the extractor. You should be able to get the extractor to melt without damaging the head if you work quick and have a good flame. When the extractor starts to melt, kill the acetalene and the O2 with blow out the rest of the extractor. Generally the heating makes the material easier to drill as well because it causes problems with the temper of the metal....just let it cool before you drill it, or the same thing will happen to the drill bit. Once you get the extractor and stud out of the hole, there are a couple options. I don't think a helicoil or time-sert style insert will work because the hole is going to be too big. I would drill the hole out as much as required to make it round, then get out the tap chart and see what size you can tap it to. Get a bolt, doesn't matter how big, that fits your newly tapped hole, put some threadlocker on it and snug it into the hole. Then cut it off flush with the head surface. Now you have a surface just like it used to be, but with no hole for the stud. Mark the correct spot for the stud, and drill and tap the correct size for the stud.

8mpg

sounds like a pain in the ***...

Branman

Listen to lbhgti he knows his ****. Those extractors are extremely hard over, 40 H.R.C. So the only thing that will cut it will be carbide. Dont do carbide tip though becuase if u start to make some prgress and get to wild with it, u might break of the tips from the softer drill body and then ull really have a problem, lol. Use solid carbide only. And if u manage to get it out an try another extractor. Heat it up first in case there any thread lock on the stud.

Other options are machine shop (no prblem for them), and maybe that heat trick lbhgti was talking about. goodluck

JerseySiPOS

iTrader: (2)

thanks alot for the replies!!

ok, i used my air tool, and a carbide bit to start grinding the stud down, i grinded out the extractor, and then used a cylindrical grinding bit on my air tool to make a clean round hole alittle bigger than what you see in the pic at the top.

then i took it to my local machine shop to have him put in a heli-coil for a 3/8" stud and we'll see how it works, which was the best one that could fit. so now i would like a stepped stud from 3/8" to a smaller size to fit throught the cast iron manifold.

this is for a b20vtec, and i really wanna use my exhaust manifold since it's modded, but worst comes to worst i will have to settle for a 4-2-1 or 4-1 that i can mod.

LBHgti

Drill a bigger hole in the manifold and call it a day.

Calvinator

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JerseySiPOS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thanks alot for the replies!!

ok, i used my air tool, and a carbide bit to start grinding the stud down, i grinded out the extractor, and then used a cylindrical grinding bit on my air tool to make a clean round hole alittle bigger than what you see in the pic at the top.

then i took it to my local machine shop to have him put in a heli-coil for a 3/8" stud and we'll see how it works, which was the best one that could fit. so now i would like a stepped stud from 3/8" to a smaller size to fit throught the cast iron manifold.

this is for a b20vtec, and i really wanna use my exhaust manifold since it's modded, but worst comes to worst i will have to settle for a 4-2-1 or 4-1 that i can mod.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Im sure you can find the stepped stud pretty easily. We have them at a local shop called mr. metric and ive also seen it at osh