1. DEVCON LIQUID ALUMINUM F-2 (1 lb ) for b series ( 3/4) lb for d series
2. BOX OF TABLE SALT.
3. 80 GRIT SAND PAPER.
4. CONTACT CLEANER
5. HACKSAW BLADE ( for measuring)
7. 19MM WRENCH
8 BEER ( optional)
HERE ARE THE STEPS
1. gather all supplies, listed above.
2. put block on a level surface, make sure its level. if on a stand level the stand front to back and side to side.
3. take 80 grit sand paper and skuff the water jacket and sleeve so the devcon will bond when poured. after you sand it, spray with a contact cleaner to remove, oils, grit, ect.
4. take your hacksaw blade., this is your ghetto marking tool. place blade along sleeve where the water pump hole is. the end of the blade will be even with the top of the water pump hole. where the blade intersects with the deck draw a line.
that will be your measurement as to how far up to fill your jacket with salt.
5.pour salt evenly around the jacket until it meets your measurement you determine with your hacksaw measuring stick. be sure to take the blade and poke the salt to remove ait pockets and have it sit uniform.
6. after the salt is air pocket free and to the level you desire., mix your epoxy.
stir together for at least 4 minutes. after the mixture is a uniform grey color pour it through the funnel and into your jacket.
when its all poured it will look like this.
7. now after you pour the devcon, you will need to skim your finger around the top of the sleeve, to 1, even out the pour, and 2. smooth it out. and make sure none of it sits above the gaset surface. there should be a bit of sleeve uncovered at the very top, prob like 1/16 inch.
8. let the devcon sit for 4 hrs. at room temp. then for 4 hrs it must be cured at 200 degrees. i put the block and a space heater inside a big box and let it bake out. be sure to keep a close eye on it, uncase you light up the box. hehe
9. let sit for another 18 hrs after that.
10. after it is hard. take an old headgasket. lay it on top of the block, and mark the coolant holes with your sharpie.
11. drill holes in the devcon 1 size smaller than the hole in the headgasket.
12. once holes are drilled, remove the freeze plug with a 19mm.
13. take your hose, and flush the salt out of the sleeves until you see no more coming out and the water shoots out of the holes drilled in the devcon evenly.
14. replace drain plug, and oil cyl walls to prevent rust.
15. hone or bore block and assemble.
16. drinka beer to celebrate your 50 dollar filled block and all the hard boost it will endure.
Re: diy filled b series block, with writeup, comments welcome (thermal)
This is nothing new. Some know I am not really into the import scene, but very much into the domestic stuff. Filling blocks is really nothing new. Does it help...? ABSOLUTELY. In a domestic block you just fill the water passages up normally to the freeze plugs, sometimes all the way up. We run ours on methanol so no water is needed, so all our blocks are filled. It greatly strengthens the block itself. I cant give you a number for boost, but know when you have a 4.75" stroke billet steel crank swinging around in there at 7500+ RPM, you need as much strength as you can get....and we've never had any problems with it.
__________________ Curley's Racecars and Components
i saw this write up on d-series.org
im very impressed
has anyone else on here used this w/o any cylinder wall issues?
I saw some black kid with g-unit spinner chain, and he was like ge-ge-ge-ge-geun... and before he finished i said "shut the [freak] up" and then he was like "Yo ray ray, this little white boy is messing wit me" then i made like the country Iraq invaded, IRAN.
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