FL 1992 Civic Hatchback - SCCA SMF Prep - K24 Powered
09-20-2015, 11:17 AM
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1992 Civic Hatchback - SCCA SMF Prep - K24 Powered
LAST PRICE DROP 8K FOR EVERYTHING, Much more then double that has gone into the car. It's not worth selling for anyless. You can still pull parts off/out of the package to drop the price even more!
8/18 PRICE DROP, $1k off. So $9k for everything and it can go down from there if you don't want certain parts.
Updates
Since the car was posted for sale last summer (I decided to keep developing it & auto crossing in 2015, took 2nd at dixie tour /w a bad misfire from a dead alternator).
Electro-hydraulic power steering (New OEM 93 MR2 Pump, 94-01 Integra PS rack used /w 83k, Karcepts bracket and my own mount, JIC high pressure line, Bosch 0332002156 relay, Buss 100A waterproof auto reset breaker)
Kingpin Machine front compliance bearings
Jongbloed 15x10 +15 front wheels (15lbs, 275/35 A6’s, (4) 15x8’s and 205’s for the back, corresponding spring, bar and alignment changes were made)
K Tuned hall effect TPS sensor – every other K Series TPS sensor simply doesn’t work reliably. I tried running a B series TB set-up which worked well, but once this was released I switched back and it’s worked very well.
Overview
I purchased the car in 2010 with the K swap. I started auto crossing it in late 2011/early 2012.
In the summer of 2013 I began rebuilding the car with autocross (SMF) in mind. Everything listed was purchased new. I worked through the whole car replacing anything worth it along the way. I tried to make the list all inclusive of the aftermarket parts but there’s also a ton of small OEM replacement stuff not mentioned. I spent hundreds in OEM hardware alone.
Over the course of ownership it’s rarely given me issues but for the sake of full disclosure:
Bad misfire at dixie 2015 due to dead alternator, car was seeing voltage dips down to the 11’s at WOT. Replacing with a new OEM Denso fixed the issue.
Breaking axles – This was totally fixed by switching from a 32mm to 36mm axle (RSX base vs Type S axles) after Dixie Natl. Tour in 2014.
TPS issues – K Tuned Hall Effect sensor has been working perfectly. When the OEM died I tried all the other aftermarket options before this came out, they were all terrible and I used a B-series TB set-up for a while, which worked well but I wasn’t as happy with the mounting.
It is a very fast, very fun car that could fill a lot of roles with minor changes (street, autocross, track days, time trials). No corners were cut, and parts were purchased new and have minimal hours on them.
Price
Including all the spares, wheels and tires, and I’ll throw in any other honda stuff I have laying around I’d like to get $10k for everything. Price can be negotiated down by removing parts from the deal. EX: Taking the wheels/tires out the deal knocks $1k off. I can package the car pretty much however you’d like and feel free to make offers. I’m selling to fund another build, so I’m in no dire need to sell but would like it sold so I can start on the next project.
Clean title
Curb Weight = 2100 lbs (SMF Minimum is 2050 with 2.4L, there’s at least 30lbs to be saved in the exhaust alone)
Power = 231whp/192wtq on 93. The car was tuned to 8.2k but the rev limit is kept at 8k
10cjennings@gmail
786-390-367seven
Drivetrain
2007 K24A2 – Purchased the engine from South Florida Auto Salvage with 42k miles on 12/27/2013. Looked at a 7-8 motors, this was the only one with perfect leak down numbers. It became a dedicated autocross car, trailered to events, shortly after the k24 went in, so mileage has been really minimal, way less then 1 autocross /month and the only street driving has been around the block to test.
50* VTC gear
4-2-1 Hytech replica header
RBC IM
P2R Heatshield Gasket
K Tuned Hall Effect TPS
Karcepts IACV Plate
3.5’’ Intake /w Velocity Stack
3’’ Exhaust (35’’ long resonator and turbo style muffler keeps it quiet)
Kpro Version 3 (PRB-305 ECU)
Tuned by B.R.I.A.N. (Dyno Graph below, my previous k20a2 made 215/156 on the same dynojet,)
EP3 5 speed transmission = 64mph in 2nd with 8000 rpm limit. If you decide to build the motor, 70mph with 8800 rpm limit. Purchased with 58k miles in April 2014, the internals looked great so I just replaced the seals. The Mfactory LSD, and Karcepts 36mm hubs went in at the same time. I change the fluid every 5 events. I always use what Mfactory recommends, Torco RTF and friction modifier. It went in a couple events after the K24 and has seen similarly minimal useage.
MFactory 1.0 Way clutch plate LSD
MFactory magnetic drain bolts (Engine and Trans)
Koyo differential bearings
Karcepts 36mm hubs (/w ARP Studs, Koyo wheel bearings)
MTEC race shift kit (Aluminum Shifter Ball, pivot ball, and race springs)
K Tuned shift cables
Hasport mounts
Hybrid Racing fuel rail
Hybrid Racing clutch line
Aeromotive fuel pressure regulator
K Tuned inline fuel filter
K Tuned -6AN braided fuel Line kit
K Tuned shifter mounting kit
Fluidyne half size radiator /w slim fan
Karcepts radiator relocation kit
Hybrid Racing swap harness
Odyssey PC680 dry cell battery (In trunk)
Wheels & Tires – All wheels/tires are stored inside in an extra bedroom, climate controlled and bagged.
(2) 15x10 +15 Jongbloed Aero 500. Both have 275/35 A6’s with 3 autocrosses on them, plenty of life left.
(4) 15x8 +35 Kosei K1, The hub bores were machined from Miata to Honda hub bore, no spacer required. These wheels were bought from a racer, one has some minor curbing and another has some more significant gouging. I bought them this way; they’ve all held air and balanced perfectly over the years I’ve been auto crossing on them and it has never worried me. All 4 have 205/50 Hoosier a6’s, one pair has 2 autocrosses, the other 2 have about 5 events.
Additional Tires: I have 1 brand new, 275/35R15 Hoosier A7. Contingency win from Dixie, 06/15 Build date.
(4) 15x6.5 Steelies with 205/50/15 Yokohama S. Drives. I use these for storage, or in case I need to drive the car around the block to test somthing. The inner treads don’t have much life left, but they do their job.
Suspension & Steering – was bone stock until mid-2013, it’s evolved since. All parts were purchased new except for some non wear parts like the control arms and front sway bar.
Corner Balancing & Alignments by Albert @ APEX ALIGNMENT – All specs on file
Electro-Hydraulic Power Steering (New OEM 92 MR2 Pump, used /w 83k 94-01 Integra PS rack, Karcepts mount, JIC fitting high pressure line, Bosch 0332002156 relay, Buss 100A waterproof auto reset breaker)
Kingpin Machine Spherical Front Compliance Bearings
Koni SPSS3 Race Shocks (only have ~15 autocrosses on them)
Ground Control Coil over Sleeves
Eibach Springs (I have pairs of 1000, 600 and 750lb springs, 600F 750R with 24mm bars front and rear worked well with a square 225 tire set up, with the 275/205 the set-up is 1000F 750R, no front sway bar and the 24mm ASR rear sway bar.)
HardRace Top Hat Bushings
HardRace Front and Rear Upper Control Arms
HardRace Front Lower Control Arm Bushings
HardRace Rear Trailing Arm Bushings
HardRace Rear Toe Links
Moog Balljoints
DC2 Front Lower Trailing Arms (For swaybar mounting points)
22mm (EG ex) and 24mm (DC2) front sway bars /w new oem bushings and endlinks for both.
Skunk 2 Rear Lower Control Arms (Came with the car, and they have 3 swaybar mounting points. The passenger side control arm has some of it’s upper surface ground down by an incorrectly fitting exhaust rubbing against it. The exhaust was fixed but the arm has been like this for years and has never caused any problems. I was always planning on replacing it when the bushings died, but they still look good.)
DC2 Front Subframe
ASR Rear Subframe Brace
ASR 24mm Rear Sway Bar
ASR Spherical Sway Bar Endlinks
94-97 Integra 1’’ Master Cylinder and Brake Booster
4040 Prop Valve
98-01 Accord EX 4-Cyl Front Calipers
94-01 Integra Rear Calipers
Hawk HP+ Pads
Stainless Steel Brake Lines
949 Racing Lug Nuts
8/18 PRICE DROP, $1k off. So $9k for everything and it can go down from there if you don't want certain parts.
Updates
Since the car was posted for sale last summer (I decided to keep developing it & auto crossing in 2015, took 2nd at dixie tour /w a bad misfire from a dead alternator).
Electro-hydraulic power steering (New OEM 93 MR2 Pump, 94-01 Integra PS rack used /w 83k, Karcepts bracket and my own mount, JIC high pressure line, Bosch 0332002156 relay, Buss 100A waterproof auto reset breaker)
Kingpin Machine front compliance bearings
Jongbloed 15x10 +15 front wheels (15lbs, 275/35 A6’s, (4) 15x8’s and 205’s for the back, corresponding spring, bar and alignment changes were made)
K Tuned hall effect TPS sensor – every other K Series TPS sensor simply doesn’t work reliably. I tried running a B series TB set-up which worked well, but once this was released I switched back and it’s worked very well.
Overview
I purchased the car in 2010 with the K swap. I started auto crossing it in late 2011/early 2012.
In the summer of 2013 I began rebuilding the car with autocross (SMF) in mind. Everything listed was purchased new. I worked through the whole car replacing anything worth it along the way. I tried to make the list all inclusive of the aftermarket parts but there’s also a ton of small OEM replacement stuff not mentioned. I spent hundreds in OEM hardware alone.
Over the course of ownership it’s rarely given me issues but for the sake of full disclosure:
Bad misfire at dixie 2015 due to dead alternator, car was seeing voltage dips down to the 11’s at WOT. Replacing with a new OEM Denso fixed the issue.
Breaking axles – This was totally fixed by switching from a 32mm to 36mm axle (RSX base vs Type S axles) after Dixie Natl. Tour in 2014.
TPS issues – K Tuned Hall Effect sensor has been working perfectly. When the OEM died I tried all the other aftermarket options before this came out, they were all terrible and I used a B-series TB set-up for a while, which worked well but I wasn’t as happy with the mounting.
It is a very fast, very fun car that could fill a lot of roles with minor changes (street, autocross, track days, time trials). No corners were cut, and parts were purchased new and have minimal hours on them.
Price
Including all the spares, wheels and tires, and I’ll throw in any other honda stuff I have laying around I’d like to get $10k for everything. Price can be negotiated down by removing parts from the deal. EX: Taking the wheels/tires out the deal knocks $1k off. I can package the car pretty much however you’d like and feel free to make offers. I’m selling to fund another build, so I’m in no dire need to sell but would like it sold so I can start on the next project.
Clean title
Curb Weight = 2100 lbs (SMF Minimum is 2050 with 2.4L, there’s at least 30lbs to be saved in the exhaust alone)
Power = 231whp/192wtq on 93. The car was tuned to 8.2k but the rev limit is kept at 8k
10cjennings@gmail
786-390-367seven
Drivetrain
2007 K24A2 – Purchased the engine from South Florida Auto Salvage with 42k miles on 12/27/2013. Looked at a 7-8 motors, this was the only one with perfect leak down numbers. It became a dedicated autocross car, trailered to events, shortly after the k24 went in, so mileage has been really minimal, way less then 1 autocross /month and the only street driving has been around the block to test.
50* VTC gear
4-2-1 Hytech replica header
RBC IM
P2R Heatshield Gasket
K Tuned Hall Effect TPS
Karcepts IACV Plate
3.5’’ Intake /w Velocity Stack
3’’ Exhaust (35’’ long resonator and turbo style muffler keeps it quiet)
Kpro Version 3 (PRB-305 ECU)
Tuned by B.R.I.A.N. (Dyno Graph below, my previous k20a2 made 215/156 on the same dynojet,)
EP3 5 speed transmission = 64mph in 2nd with 8000 rpm limit. If you decide to build the motor, 70mph with 8800 rpm limit. Purchased with 58k miles in April 2014, the internals looked great so I just replaced the seals. The Mfactory LSD, and Karcepts 36mm hubs went in at the same time. I change the fluid every 5 events. I always use what Mfactory recommends, Torco RTF and friction modifier. It went in a couple events after the K24 and has seen similarly minimal useage.
MFactory 1.0 Way clutch plate LSD
MFactory magnetic drain bolts (Engine and Trans)
Koyo differential bearings
Karcepts 36mm hubs (/w ARP Studs, Koyo wheel bearings)
MTEC race shift kit (Aluminum Shifter Ball, pivot ball, and race springs)
K Tuned shift cables
Hasport mounts
Hybrid Racing fuel rail
Hybrid Racing clutch line
Aeromotive fuel pressure regulator
K Tuned inline fuel filter
K Tuned -6AN braided fuel Line kit
K Tuned shifter mounting kit
Fluidyne half size radiator /w slim fan
Karcepts radiator relocation kit
Hybrid Racing swap harness
Odyssey PC680 dry cell battery (In trunk)
Wheels & Tires – All wheels/tires are stored inside in an extra bedroom, climate controlled and bagged.
(2) 15x10 +15 Jongbloed Aero 500. Both have 275/35 A6’s with 3 autocrosses on them, plenty of life left.
(4) 15x8 +35 Kosei K1, The hub bores were machined from Miata to Honda hub bore, no spacer required. These wheels were bought from a racer, one has some minor curbing and another has some more significant gouging. I bought them this way; they’ve all held air and balanced perfectly over the years I’ve been auto crossing on them and it has never worried me. All 4 have 205/50 Hoosier a6’s, one pair has 2 autocrosses, the other 2 have about 5 events.
Additional Tires: I have 1 brand new, 275/35R15 Hoosier A7. Contingency win from Dixie, 06/15 Build date.
(4) 15x6.5 Steelies with 205/50/15 Yokohama S. Drives. I use these for storage, or in case I need to drive the car around the block to test somthing. The inner treads don’t have much life left, but they do their job.
Suspension & Steering – was bone stock until mid-2013, it’s evolved since. All parts were purchased new except for some non wear parts like the control arms and front sway bar.
Corner Balancing & Alignments by Albert @ APEX ALIGNMENT – All specs on file
Electro-Hydraulic Power Steering (New OEM 92 MR2 Pump, used /w 83k 94-01 Integra PS rack, Karcepts mount, JIC fitting high pressure line, Bosch 0332002156 relay, Buss 100A waterproof auto reset breaker)
Kingpin Machine Spherical Front Compliance Bearings
Koni SPSS3 Race Shocks (only have ~15 autocrosses on them)
Ground Control Coil over Sleeves
Eibach Springs (I have pairs of 1000, 600 and 750lb springs, 600F 750R with 24mm bars front and rear worked well with a square 225 tire set up, with the 275/205 the set-up is 1000F 750R, no front sway bar and the 24mm ASR rear sway bar.)
HardRace Top Hat Bushings
HardRace Front and Rear Upper Control Arms
HardRace Front Lower Control Arm Bushings
HardRace Rear Trailing Arm Bushings
HardRace Rear Toe Links
Moog Balljoints
DC2 Front Lower Trailing Arms (For swaybar mounting points)
22mm (EG ex) and 24mm (DC2) front sway bars /w new oem bushings and endlinks for both.
Skunk 2 Rear Lower Control Arms (Came with the car, and they have 3 swaybar mounting points. The passenger side control arm has some of it’s upper surface ground down by an incorrectly fitting exhaust rubbing against it. The exhaust was fixed but the arm has been like this for years and has never caused any problems. I was always planning on replacing it when the bushings died, but they still look good.)
DC2 Front Subframe
ASR Rear Subframe Brace
ASR 24mm Rear Sway Bar
ASR Spherical Sway Bar Endlinks
94-97 Integra 1’’ Master Cylinder and Brake Booster
4040 Prop Valve
98-01 Accord EX 4-Cyl Front Calipers
94-01 Integra Rear Calipers
Hawk HP+ Pads
Stainless Steel Brake Lines
949 Racing Lug Nuts
Last edited by 10cjennings; 10-07-2015 at 10:51 AM.
09-20-2015, 11:17 AM
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Re: 1992 Civic Hatchback - SCCA SMF Prep - K24 Powered
Body/Interior It’s not a show car, but it’s solid, straight and looks good.
I kept my uncut painted fenders, front bumper and rear spoiler, and bought aftermarkets to cut up for the 275’s.
Painted by the previous owner. Body/interior is Frost White, Roof is black, bay is blue. Paint has held up well over the time I’ve owned the car but it has nicks and dings, most from me being careless with tools. I’d rate it 8/10. There’s some chipping in the bay, around the lip of the front fenders (see careless with tools comment).
There was a small bit of rust in the driver side rear fender lip and the top rear hatch. I painted both with POR15 when I bought the car (almost 4 years ago and it hasn’t changed/spread at all). The two bubbles in the fender are about the diameter of a pencil, and the spot in the hatch a 2x1” rectangle.
Underside is super clean, definitely never saw northern winters.
The hood has 3 dings from below where it was hitting when I first swapped the K24 and RBC.
A leaky brake master cylinder caused some paint wrinkling in that corner of the bay. It was replaced with a new oem MC and the area with the wrinkled paint was cleaned and coated in POR15.
Interior is in good shape, (I remove the radio, speakers, rear seats, seatbelts and cargo cover per SMF rules, but I have them, they are in perfect condition). There are some scuffs in the plastics from when I drove to events with tires and tools in the back, as well as scratches in the interior paint but nothing is cracked or faded, or looks bad. Door panels, dash, seats are all in excellent shape.
Ultrashield 15’’ Spec Miata Seat
BuddyClub Super Lowdown Sliders
Mugen Racing 3 Wheel
Momo 4911 Hub
1995 Si Seats
OEM Si Front Lip, Radio Block off Plate, Antenna Block off Plate, Rear Wiper Plug, Mud Guards
Recently Replaced Parts Only new OEM parts used
OEM Denso Alternator
Clutch fluid reservoir, bracket and line
Front Upper and lower ball joints
Inner and Outer Tie rods and boots
Axle boots/grease
Hood latch and cable
Hood hinges
Wheel Bearings
Window Regulators
100% of the wiring harnesses: Cabin/under dash, Charge, Engine, Swap. I took the interior all the way down and replaced all the wiring. The previous owner’s work wasn’t that great. Everything is nice and neat now with uncut oem stuff. The engine fuse box is underneath the right corner of the dash, the ECU and OBD2 port are mounted in the glove box. The battery is in the passenger foot well.
Radiator Hoses
Front Sway Bar Bushings, End links, Hardware
Brake Hardlines
Brake Master Cylinder
All motor and transmission seals
Serpentine Belt
Belt Tensioner
Hardware everywhere
02 Sensor
Spares
Carbon Fiber hood - got this off a trade, has a hole cut in its center, but with a little fiberglass work would make for a nice lightweight hood to replace the stock honda one. OR run it as it is.
under dash components needed to install A/C, heater (Heater core, cabin fan, EVAP box)
Assorted spare engine sensors – TPS, crank positon, cam position, ect. I’ve never had issues but they are good to have handy.
Pair of OEM 36mm Axles, various 32mm axles in several states of completion, 32mm hubs
1” Brake MCs, OEM soft lines, hardlines
Wiring harnesses (extra engine and swap harness, wiring for radio)
Remains of my missshifted K20 (block, oil pump, water pump,rods, pistons, timing chain, guides ect.)
Assorted Seals, gaskets,(I always buy extra)
Type S Flywheel, clutch and Pressure Plate /w 80k
Anything else that isn’t coming to mind at this moment, any other Honda parts I have are yours
Bad things
The body issues I mentioned. It’s not perfect but for what the car will hopefully be used for (going fast and having fun!), it looks clean up close.
The exhaust isn’t to the quality of the rest of the car. Something much lighter could make more power. My local club has very ambiguous, randomly enforced sound restrictions, specifically directed at 4-cylnders. The current exhaust doesn’t cause any trouble and the car still makes great power so I never wanted to invest into a nice set-up without being sure it would be quiet enough.
The passenger side rear lower control arm has some of it’s upper surface ground down by the original incorrectly fitting exhaust rubbing against it. The exhaust was fixed but the arm has been like this for years and has never caused any problems. I was always planning on replacing it when the bushings died, but they still look good.
Mechanically, the car really is 100% and doesn’t need anything.
I kept my uncut painted fenders, front bumper and rear spoiler, and bought aftermarkets to cut up for the 275’s.
Painted by the previous owner. Body/interior is Frost White, Roof is black, bay is blue. Paint has held up well over the time I’ve owned the car but it has nicks and dings, most from me being careless with tools. I’d rate it 8/10. There’s some chipping in the bay, around the lip of the front fenders (see careless with tools comment).
There was a small bit of rust in the driver side rear fender lip and the top rear hatch. I painted both with POR15 when I bought the car (almost 4 years ago and it hasn’t changed/spread at all). The two bubbles in the fender are about the diameter of a pencil, and the spot in the hatch a 2x1” rectangle.
Underside is super clean, definitely never saw northern winters.
The hood has 3 dings from below where it was hitting when I first swapped the K24 and RBC.
A leaky brake master cylinder caused some paint wrinkling in that corner of the bay. It was replaced with a new oem MC and the area with the wrinkled paint was cleaned and coated in POR15.
Interior is in good shape, (I remove the radio, speakers, rear seats, seatbelts and cargo cover per SMF rules, but I have them, they are in perfect condition). There are some scuffs in the plastics from when I drove to events with tires and tools in the back, as well as scratches in the interior paint but nothing is cracked or faded, or looks bad. Door panels, dash, seats are all in excellent shape.
Ultrashield 15’’ Spec Miata Seat
BuddyClub Super Lowdown Sliders
Mugen Racing 3 Wheel
Momo 4911 Hub
1995 Si Seats
OEM Si Front Lip, Radio Block off Plate, Antenna Block off Plate, Rear Wiper Plug, Mud Guards
Recently Replaced Parts Only new OEM parts used
OEM Denso Alternator
Clutch fluid reservoir, bracket and line
Front Upper and lower ball joints
Inner and Outer Tie rods and boots
Axle boots/grease
Hood latch and cable
Hood hinges
Wheel Bearings
Window Regulators
100% of the wiring harnesses: Cabin/under dash, Charge, Engine, Swap. I took the interior all the way down and replaced all the wiring. The previous owner’s work wasn’t that great. Everything is nice and neat now with uncut oem stuff. The engine fuse box is underneath the right corner of the dash, the ECU and OBD2 port are mounted in the glove box. The battery is in the passenger foot well.
Radiator Hoses
Front Sway Bar Bushings, End links, Hardware
Brake Hardlines
Brake Master Cylinder
All motor and transmission seals
Serpentine Belt
Belt Tensioner
Hardware everywhere
02 Sensor
Spares
Carbon Fiber hood - got this off a trade, has a hole cut in its center, but with a little fiberglass work would make for a nice lightweight hood to replace the stock honda one. OR run it as it is.
under dash components needed to install A/C, heater (Heater core, cabin fan, EVAP box)
Assorted spare engine sensors – TPS, crank positon, cam position, ect. I’ve never had issues but they are good to have handy.
Pair of OEM 36mm Axles, various 32mm axles in several states of completion, 32mm hubs
1” Brake MCs, OEM soft lines, hardlines
Wiring harnesses (extra engine and swap harness, wiring for radio)
Remains of my missshifted K20 (block, oil pump, water pump,rods, pistons, timing chain, guides ect.)
Assorted Seals, gaskets,(I always buy extra)
Type S Flywheel, clutch and Pressure Plate /w 80k
Anything else that isn’t coming to mind at this moment, any other Honda parts I have are yours
Bad things
The body issues I mentioned. It’s not perfect but for what the car will hopefully be used for (going fast and having fun!), it looks clean up close.
The exhaust isn’t to the quality of the rest of the car. Something much lighter could make more power. My local club has very ambiguous, randomly enforced sound restrictions, specifically directed at 4-cylnders. The current exhaust doesn’t cause any trouble and the car still makes great power so I never wanted to invest into a nice set-up without being sure it would be quiet enough.
The passenger side rear lower control arm has some of it’s upper surface ground down by the original incorrectly fitting exhaust rubbing against it. The exhaust was fixed but the arm has been like this for years and has never caused any problems. I was always planning on replacing it when the bushings died, but they still look good.
Mechanically, the car really is 100% and doesn’t need anything.
09-20-2015, 11:18 AM
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Re: 1992 Civic Hatchback - SCCA SMF Prep - K24 Powered
I was asked for some better pics of the bay and EHPS, and I hosed the car off/took some exterior shots while I had the cover off to show how it currently sits. It stays outside, but under an awning and a car cover. An afternoon spent washing/claybaring the exterior would probably be worth doing.
Also, like I said, Open to any reasnoble offers. Worst I can do is say no.
Also, like I said, Open to any reasnoble offers. Worst I can do is say no.
09-20-2015, 11:22 AM
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Re: 1992 Civic Hatchback - SCCA SMF Prep - K24 Powered
I was asked for better pics of the rust spots and interior, here they are.
Here's the pics of the rust spots. They were properly cleaned and coated in POR15 almost 4 years ago, and the rust hasn't changed or spread since. It's not visible from outside the car besides the two tiny bubbles on the right rear 1/4 panel. I keep the rust spot in the hatch area covered in Foil tape.
Interior Shots - It's pretty dusty/dirty in there, but everything is in excellent shape. I have all the EG Si rear interior (seats, belts, cargo cover) in mint condition as well
Here's the pics of the rust spots. They were properly cleaned and coated in POR15 almost 4 years ago, and the rust hasn't changed or spread since. It's not visible from outside the car besides the two tiny bubbles on the right rear 1/4 panel. I keep the rust spot in the hatch area covered in Foil tape.
Interior Shots - It's pretty dusty/dirty in there, but everything is in excellent shape. I have all the EG Si rear interior (seats, belts, cargo cover) in mint condition as well
Last edited by 10cjennings; 09-20-2015 at 02:42 PM.
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10-07-2015, 10:50 AM
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Re: 1992 Civic Hatchback - SCCA SMF Prep - K24 Powered
LAST PRICE DROP 8K FOR EVERYTHING, Much more then double that has gone into the car. It's not worth selling for anyless. You can still pull parts off/out of the package to drop the price even more!
11-08-2015, 02:34 PM
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Re: 1992 Civic Hatchback - SCCA SMF Prep - K24 Powered
Very nice Civic! I know it's a long shot, but if you've ever wanted a Corvette I'd be willing to work out a trade.https://honda-tech.com/vehicles-sale-42/fs-ft-ut-built-07-c6-corvette-3263291/
Either way glws! It's worth the money for whoever gets it.
Either way glws! It's worth the money for whoever gets it.