Jaydicken

So I have a JDM 96 ITR box with the 4.4FD all the gears go in fine no crunches or grinds except for my reverse.
When I put it into reverse it goes in and the reverse lights come on but the car won't move and you can hear the gear grinding when I slowly let out the clutch.
Only rarely does it actually reverse. I got stuck in a street for 20 minutes once because it wouldn't reverse to be able to do a U-turn... What could be the problem? I am also running an Exedy 3 puck clutch.

Jaydicken

Nobody knows?

ferio-ichi3

Did reverse work before the clutch job?

Jaydicken

Reverse worked fine before the clutch job. Where do you think it went wrong with the clutch job?

ferio-ichi3

The other gears work fine?go on a flat surface and try reverse without giving any gas. Release clutch slow and see if you see the rpms go down.

Jaydicken

Yep, all the other gears works fine its just the reverse. I'll do what you suggested and get back to you. Thanks.

Jaydicken

So I did what you said and there was no drop in the rpm just a grinding sound when I let out the clutch slowly.

ferio-ichi3

Loud grinding? Did you install the clutch correctly? Not to insult your intel, but. Everything lined up correctly? Torqued right? Torque sequence right?

Jaydicken

Yeah, you can definitely hear the grinding as you let out the clutch. Everything seemed to be correct when I installed the clutch and I torqued every bolt down to spec also. That's why I'm so stumped. Should I try to re-bleed the clutch?

fadedhatch211

I just put a clutch/flywheel in my 96 coupe and the same is happening to me. When it goes in reverse and I let the clutch out it just makes a loud grinding noise . It's also stuck in gear like I can't roll it in neutral. I'm interested to see what fixes your problem.

ferio-ichi3

Rebleed your clutch, once youthink you are done, have someone watch the slave cylinder push the fork all the way out.

Jaydicken

I'll get on it ASAP and get back to you.

backinblue92

iTrader: (1)

Whatever u do, don't just *****-nilly adjust the master cylinder push rod. That would be a band-aid over the underlying problem.

HOWEVER, with that said, if u did replace your master, it is possible that the rod is too far inward (aka set short) that u aren't getting a full extension of the pedal and thus, the fork. You should be getting a full 1-1/2" of fork travel from the tip of the fork back

Jaydicken

Okay, so I just been able to get around to bleeding my clutch and I guess now its gone worse... Now when I shift into reverse there is no grinding, no drop in the rpm, nothing.

I've attached a shitty recording from my iPhone of how far the clutch fork goes back. It might not help since the boot to cover the fork and slave is still on since I didn't want to remove my radiator to get the boot off.
IMG_8236.mov

And, all gears still work as normal.

So stumped....

ferio-ichi3

You gonna have to take the trans apart and see whats up.