galognu

Search function for "axle removal" sucks.

So please no flaming.

I have a 93 hatch with B18C transplant with 99LS transmission. I am in the process of trying to remove both axles as the CV joint boots are broken. I've looked all over you tube and tried various searches to see how to remove the left side axle but have found none. Most videos show the easy removal of the inner CV joint by prying it off the transmission. However, the left side is not next to the transmission, its next to the halfshaft and I cannot find a say to pry it off. I went to my mechanic and he looked it up to be sure, and it says to pound it out. I cannot get good leverage under the car with a pry bar, either hitting it or trying to pry it out. I went to Autozone to see if there is a specific tool, but they were clueless.

I am considering an air hammer, but not sure I can get it in past the headers.

ANY help/guidance will be appreciated.

Thank you

SpokaneSpeed

Lol just pry it away from the half shaft, use some force with a good sized pry bar. They do make a cv axle removal fork but it's not needed. If ur having too much trouble, just unbolt the half shaft from the block and pull the whole assembly and separate it outside of the car.

galognu

There was no way I could get enough purchase under the car. I took the intermediate shaft off and going to a shop tmrw.

Now the right ball joint is stuck and I've tried force, pitman pullers, without success, so will try pickle fork tmrw.

SpokaneSpeed

A pickle fork will likely destroy the ball joint in the process.

Use a ball joint separator. Harbor Freight sells once that works really well and is inexpensive. Another trick is to take a mini sledge and wack on the lower control arm a few good times on each side. It usually frees up the lower ball joint from sticking. Hasn't failed me yet, sometimes it'll pop w/o even using the ball joint separator but with the two I've never had one not come apart. ;-)

galognu

I beat that thing for a while. The ball joint boot was already trashed so it was going to be changed anyways. The pickle fork did the trick. Also in looking at the knuckle its obvious its a 92-95 civic. I'm assuming switching to GSR brakes just requires the caliper. I'm assuming the rotor will be for a civic since the knuckle is from a civic. I 'll have to go and check that out at the store. Unless anyone knows for sure.

Thanks

galognu

OK,

So all is out. I have used the Harbor Freight tool before, but I broke mine on an earlier job.

I looked at both service manuals, one for my 93 Hatch, and one for a 99 Integra GSR. Looks like both knuckles are the same, but the 93 Hatch has a ring that fits over the main bearing, and looks like it has to be removed to take out the ball joints.

Its all at my local shop. Meanwhile I have new rotors and pads, and will be getting ready for the rear with sway bar, BWR LCA's and subframe brace.

DVDr

iTrader: (2)

easiest method when it is stuck is remove the halfshaft with the axles.

to remove the half shaft , remove the 3 bolts holding it to the transmission.

remove them together , then spray some wd40 or better and let it sit for a few minutes.

then proceed to seperate them with a pry bar or hammer. ( much easier once its out of car )

slowcivic2k

The biggest mistake I see people make, is that they apply uneven pressure to the CV housing. If you pry at only one point, you will bind the circlip against the top of the joint. an easy remedy is a wooden shim between the top of the joint and the housing, and using a pry bar or similar object to thrust it out of position from below. A CV joint puller will work effectively on some joints, but not all of them, regardless of make. These clips are easy to disconnect if you apply force evenly (or as even as possible) across the joint.

94EG8

It doesn't.

It's not.

You need the knuckles, wheel bearings, calipers, pads, and rotors from an Integra. You'll also want '94 - '97 Integra RS (Non-ABS) master cylinder, brake booster, and prop valve for everything to work right.

galognu

All that was done already. I was just replacing pads and rotors. The steering knuckle however seems to be from a civic hatchback, not an integra GSR as mine had this ring on the back of the bearing, and the Integra ones do not have that ring.

All being put back together soon.

94EG8

Figure out exactly what you have, there are 4 different pad sets depending on what caliper was used. The rotor is for any '94 - '01 Integra except type R.

No '92 - '95 hatchback (except the rare '94 Si with ABS) has knuckles that Integra or Civic EX/Del Sol VTEC calipers will bolt to.

galognu

OK,

When I bought this car it was advertised as:

GSR front and rear brakes,
GRS proportioning valve
GSR 1" Master

As I tried to get scammed when I bought it, I really cant talk to the a-hole thief to see exactly what was done.

On the Factory Service Manual for the Civic Hatchback, there is a picture on the Knuckle with the "Knuckle Ring" that you can see on the back of the the knuckle. On the FSM for the Integra, there is no "knuckle ring". Also, my mechanic switched out the lower ball joints and they were for a civic.

The pads, and rotors I bought were for an Integra, and they are identical to what came off the car. So I'm assuming the steering knuckle is from a Civic ? maybe an Si? there is a sway bar up front, and I do not see that on the Service manual for the Civic. I also do not see the description for a sway bar in the back, but my lower control arms in the back do have the bolt hole for one. I am planning to get BWR LCA's and subframe brace with the 22mm sway bar.

Here are some pics:

94EG8

Lower balljoints are the same for '92 - '00 Civic, '94 - '01 Integra and '97 - '01 CR-V so that doesn't really tell you much. That ring is also present in Integras, see link: Acura Parts @ AcuraOEMparts.com - Genuine Acura OEM Parts from Delray Acura

As near as I can tell that's a '94 - '01 Integra knuckle and caliper.

Also for what it's worth you can't use a GS-R prop valve on a '92 - '95 Civic, the GS-R doesn't have one, it just has a dummy splitter valve with no actual valving inside it. This is because all GS-Rs have ABS. The only model Integra that does have a compatible prop valve is the '94 - '97 RS (only model without ABS. '98 - '01 wont work as the valve is shaped totally differently, like an EK so none of the ports line up with the hard lines)

galognu

Wow,

I wonder why the service manual (98-01), I have does not show that ring?

Anyways, thanks.

I can't comment on the proportioning valve, but the brakes work fine, and soon I'll have everything put back together.

Also, the mod list I'm supposed to have.

slowcivic2k

The interior ring you mention is a dust ring to prevent debris from contacting the seal. I do not know all the models that have this or don't, but most virgin axle removals I have seen have these rings in place. They do fall out easily during bearing removal, and many people forget to reinstall them, as the rust prevents them from fitting properly. These are just as important as a splash shield preventing debris from contacting the rotor.

galognu

Thank you. Always good to have knowledge.

A question if you'll indulge me with your experience:

When you place the axle and intermediate shaft back onto the transmission, I am assuming they should be lubed with transmission fluid. What about at the inner CV joint where it goes into the intermediate shaft that was such a pain I had to remove the intermediate shaft to separate them. What lubricant there? Also I cleaned the knuckle and used a dremel to lightly remove rust from where the balljoint goes into the LCA, as well as where the outer steering rod goes. Would or should you use any light oil or grease to prevent rust there and making it a pain in the *** to separate the balljoint later, or just clean rust off and place it without any coating? Also do you put any oil or grease, (light of course) on the splines on the outer cv joint where they go into the hub?

Thanks again.

94EG8

Brake grease, anti-seize, or even just plain old wheel bearing grease will work fine to keep the splines of the axle from seizing in the hub and where the inner joint connects to the intermediate shaft.

galognu

What about where the balljoint fits?

94EG8

Dry. It's not rust that makes it hard to separate, it's that it's a Morse taper.