realjaketansley

just put a new stage 3 competion clutch in my em1. but now when i try and race or bang through my gear box my frount wheels jump and shake really hard. it dosnt spin like it normally would. i thought it was from the clutch but i read somewhere it could be my motor mounts. is this a main reason why? my mounts dont seem to be that bad.

realjaketansley

forgot to add, i also already broke an axle to.

Aquafina

iTrader: (3)

The wheels aren't jumping or shaking, the clutch is chattering.

To be blunt, you're not shifting correctly, especially if you're breaking axles.

realjaketansley

not trying to sound stupid but i know how to shift. I've been driving manual daily for awhile now. i never had this problem on my oem clutch. why would stage 3 make such a difference? and make so much more chatter? it dosnt chatter at all when im driving in gears or anything. it's only when I'm grabbing gears fast at a high rpm. (as if racing someone). i shouldn't have to granny shift every gear

Aquafina

iTrader: (3)

Flywheel not resurfaced correctly (or at all), clutch not broken in, disc contaminated, lingering on the clutch pedal too long, etc. The CC stage 3 uses a different friction material than OEM.

realjaketansley

[QUOTE=Aquafina;49723194] yeah i got the flywheel resurfaced but a trustworthy shop so it's not that. i broke the clutch in for 400 miles and it feels great so i dont think it's that. I DID HOWEVER find out earler that my rear motor mount is bad so i feel like that might be it. thanks for your help man

slowcivic2k

An increase in flywheel clamping force reduces compliance in your clutch, which will transfer more torque to the wheels by reducing slippage (ideal). The fact that you are now noticing this means the slippage (or the way you drive the car) has changed.

The problems lie with both the engine mounts, and the wheel end bushings/ball joints. (assuming you want to keep a higher clamping force clutch)

As torque is transmitted to the wheels, this torque causes deflection of both the wheel end parts, and the engine mounts. As the wheels break traction (slips), the tire heats up and re-establishes traction, (either through friction) or you realizing "Oh **** I'm burning out" and letting off the pedal", or just being in the torque sweet spot for wheel hop.

There is a resonant frequency between your engine mounts and wheel end parts that needs to be avoided, or else you end up going no load, to full load, and back again, thus causing serious damage. Reducing compliance in the wheel end or the engine mounts will change the resonant frequency, thus reducing to some degree, the shock of wheel hop. The only way to 100% cure wheel hop the easy way is to remove all (or most) mobility of the engine mounts and suspension components, which will result in a very rough ride.

Even then, you may still break transmission parts, in particular the axles and differential. Making power breaks stuff.

civic-steve-94

Traction bars

slowcivic2k

That is one good solution, but only part of it.

Aquafina

iTrader: (3)

Traction bars cause binding.

The cheapest and easiest solution is to change your driving.

civic-steve-94

I have traction bars on my street/drag car and the steering is great. At the drag strip with slicks no wheel hop. and I run stock axles.

realjaketansley

i changed my rear motor mount out for a solid mount and it cut the wheel hop in half. i need a left mount also so once i get to put it in i believe it should help even more. I'm also gunna et coilovers soon and get rid of these shity springs. i think that, and replacing my ball joints should help. I'll let you guys know