letam06

Just curious what oil And weight you fellow b16 owners are using. I am using castrol gtx 10w30. I want to change to synthetic. I am curious if I should put heavier or thinner oil in or if 10w30 is fine.

delsolproblems

10w30 is fine. Since you seem to live in Michigan, I'll point out that 5w30 is reccomended for under 0 degrees Farenheit but it's not a big deal if it rarely gets that cold. I like Quaker State synthetic but Castrol Syntec is just as good. Mobil 1 also makes a good oil. Some racers like Royal Purple but it's expensive.

ltrkstr2k

Mobile 1 FTW!!!

mugen si

5w30. mobile 1 and amsoil.

letam06

Ya I was eiTher going to go with mobil1 synthetic 10w30 or royal purple. I also read that fram oil filters are one of the worst ou there. Also going to change tranny fluid with Honda mtf.

letam06

I also have a very slight ticking coming from the head. Already readjusted m valves to spec of .006 intake and .007 exhaust. My father thought that if I put a heavier weight oil in thAT it could help with the noise. Is this something to consider or just bogus.

mugen si

Its pretty normal for hondas to have a slight tick coming from their valve train. Its just your valve train doing its job. It does get annoying if your not use to it, But I've grown to just accept it. Stay with 5W30. My em1 has always had the ticking even after having the valves checked/adjusted.

delsolproblems

There's nothing wrong with Fram filters. If you want to make sure you get a good one, just get the Fram Tough Guard which is their top of the line. Clicking caused by the valve clearances is affected by engine heat. If the clearances are causing the clicking then it will get better or worse (usually better) as the motor gets hotter. If engine heat doesn't affect the clicking at all then it's not the clearances. It's never a good idea to try fixing an engine problem with heavier oil. You should only try that when the car is on its last leg and you just want to get a few more miles out of it.

letam06

Ya that's what I figured regarding the oil. And the noise did get quieter as the engine heated up. That's why I adjusted them. And since the adjustment it sounds quite abut better but there is still a faint noise. And frams aren't that good. Do some research on the filtering capabilities. Make sure it's by a 3rd party and not by fram themselves. Of course they are going to say their product is good. And I do have the tough gaurd filter.

delsolproblems

I have been selling and installing Fram and most other filters for many years. I'm pretty sure that I know what the products in my shop can and can't do. However, if you can provide verifiable imperical data that backs up your statements about Fram filters not being very good, you can show everyone proof that you're not just talking out of your a**.

mugen si

This is fine. Valve ticking on your honda is perfectly normal. Once the motor has warmed up to operating temps, you will still get a faint if not more noticeable ticking. My b16 sounded like this at 60,000 miles and still does today with 117,000 miles. The sound was still noticeable after my valve adjustments which have been performed every 30,000 miles. I burn no oil(well use the usual amount for a vtec motor) and don't smoke at all...car runs great. My ticking may be louder than yours as I am running slightly more aggressive cams.

And as previously stated, stick with 5W30. Try mobil1 extended performance(rated for 15k). I always use a mobile1 filter. They are a little pricey but its filtering capabilities are well worth it. I have also heard bad things about fram filters and would not use one.

KWayRacing

I run Pennzoil 10w30 in my NA BSeries and Royal Purple in my boosted cars. However, if I drove the boosted cars more I would probably use Mobil1. I always use a genuine Honda filter and new crush washer. Somewhere between 2 and 3K. I personally hate fram filters and with no emprical data have decided they are garbage. While they may actually work "sufficiently" I think they are cheap for the reason they are cheaply made. While their perfomance and build quality maybe ok for some they are not me. Fram to me is like the lowest common denominator of oil filtration. Walmart installs them. Oil filtration is almost like oil brand choice or tire selection. As long as the products bought are for your intended use and are of good quality almost any major brand choice is safe and sufficient. After that it is preference because of particular reasons. Kinda like ketchup hunts will work but I prefer Heinz.

00civicsi256

I run castrol 5w30

letam06

Well one review on fram filets said "Fram Extra Guard - PH4967 - $4.99

Base-plate: 10 hole openings. Thickness of the plate approx. 0.12". The gasket that goes against the engine is squared. Gasket is held in place by 6 pressed lips.

Case: Thickness approx. 0.021", thickest of the group.

Anti-drainback valve: Black rubber. It seemed really thin and flimsy. Thickness of 0.054". Total width of 2.12". Hole in center of 1.0".

The by-pass valve is a plastic piece that is snapped into a coil spring that is attached to the inside case spring that resides at the far end of the paper filter element opposite the base plate (Whew!). There doesn't appear to be any gasket on this valve, just plastic against the metal of the spring creating the seal as best I can tell.

Filter element: Paper - thickness 0.036". 39 pleats of width 0.48". Filter element height of approx. 1.85". 69.26 sq. in. of filtering surface area. The seam of the filtering element was nicely put together with a metal clasp (just like the Purolator). Cardboard end caps are glued to each end of the filter element. Metal support structure inside element to prevent collapse.

General observations: The anti-drainback valve rubber was the thinnest and flimsiest of all the filters. Pretty good glue job on attaching filter element to the cardboard end caps. This filter has the grip area on the outside of the canister which makes it easier to tighten the filter by hand when putting it on the car, the only down-side I've experienced with this grip area is trying to get a filter removal tool cap over it, a really tight fit. This filter appears to be the lowest quality of the group. But it is one of the most expensive of the group too, I guess marketing costs are pretty high here. The cardboard end-caps for the filter element, the cheap plastic by-pass valve and the flimsy anti-drainback valve will make me stay away from this filter. This filter is made in Canada. I can't tell what standards it meets (J806 or J1858)."

and here's a lInk that compares several different filters.
http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oil...ce.html#amsoil

look at the specs. Fram filters are built with inferior componets and have poor filteration. I even read one review that said "they are basically toilet paper in a can". And of course you not going to admit that frams suck if your selling them. So do your own research before you start slamming others. Looks like it's you who is talking out your a**.

BryanM.

iTrader: (1)

This ticking you mentioned could also be faulty Lost Motion Assemblies, very common problem for the older B16A and B18C. The first LMA design was prone to failure, Honda redesigned them later on (to a simple "beehive" spring). This new design supposedly works much better, and longer.

BryanM.

iTrader: (1)

https://honda-tech.com/forums/all-motor-naturally-aspirated-44/%2Anew%2A-b-series-lma-info-2312727/

letam06

Thanks alot man. I will definately check that out. Better be safe than sorry. Plus I just love poping the hood. So how is that for proof delsolproblems. Good enough?

raphael

That ticking is your fuel injectors. Get used to it. You need that part alot more than you think.

theRDRman

castrol 10w30 for me

JuggerNaut-CTR

You might as well stick to conventional oil unless you know the motor has ran synthetic for most of its life. There are detergents in conventional stuff that will keep your possibly higher mileage b16 alot more clean inside.