ForceFed Motorsports

Hmm, thats interesting. I dunno if the added heat would cause the coolant in the radiator to boil which may cause overflow. But i would still just try the leak down. You have the symptoms of a blown HG. My 4 door ran like a champ still got 30+ MPG with a blown head gasket. Only drivability thing that i noticed that gave it away was the little bit of white smoke out the tail pipe.

twkdCD595

yea no smoke out of tail pipe here or out of catch can. trying to get to shop to do a leakdown though asap.

tested the coolant mix and I am at a 260 degree F boiling point mix by one of those cheap testers.

LOVEthatDC2

i feel your pain.

we recently put a new headgasket on and I bought new arp head studs ...

ARP-208-4303 ARP Pro Series Cylinder Head Stud Kits
Cylinder Head Studs, 12-Point Head, for use on Acura®, 1.8L, VTEC® B18C1, GSR, 11mm, Kit

we torqued down to oem spec on the headbolts (63 ft lbs) but I didn't know the arp's require 80 with the moly lube or 85 with 30 weight oil (i just called arp ) ... my thermostat went bad building up excess pressure and the rear portion of the headgasket wasnt sealed correctly causing coolant to get into one of my cylinders. It's all apart now, I'm just waiting to get one oem headbolt removed from the middle exhaust side (we snapped it ) ... wierd thing is, it was sealed on the exhaust side and not on the intake side. Doesn't make any sense to me ... but anyway, best of luck fixing that!

twkdCD595

UPDATE: put a bag on the turbo, heat problem is addressed... did not help.

well I got to thinking... my ARPs were kit #208-4307 which is for an h23 right (yes they are the exact same as f22)... anyways I thought to myself I got my set like 2 years ago when i first started boosting. well i did not put them in till recently and looking at the recommended torque specs on the sheet that came with them.

i remembered they upd their torque spec on them recently... so i said [freak] it and called. the guy laughed when i told him what i had them torqued to... said those are 12mm studs and they should have been 90ftlbs with moly previously. NOW they should 100ftlbs with moly on the revised specs.

well ****... I am like 20-25 ft lbs shy of that new rating...

think i need to retorque my headstuds... hope this is my issue and why i am getting the weird head lifting like situation.

another thing, the tech guy at arp said to back off each stud one at a time in sequence, put moly on it and retorque to new spec in 3 steps? sound ok... that kinda makes me nervous. without moly he was 120+ ft lbs... which seems like a **** ton... I dont wanna pull the threads out.

z395civic

had the same thing happen to my civic. went through 3 caps, did nothing. put in a new radiator all was good.

1rude2l

Exact same thing happened to me with a 4 door i bought. It would push the coolant into the overflow and not bring it back. Radiator hoses would get rock hard also. Did turn out to be a head gasket issue. It basically was pushing compression into the water jacket. Never smoked out of the tailpipe either. Guessing it was just enough to let the compression through, but no let coolant into the cylinder.

twkdCD595

have all kinds of conflicting information about the arps so i am just gonna leak it down tonight since the weather looks to be good so i can drive it to where i have air.

then maybe pop off the vc and retorque the arps to 80ft ls like i originally did.

see what happens. from there it will be new radiator, intake manifold gasket, and if need be a head gasket.

twkdCD595

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by z395civic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">had the same thing happen to my civic. went through 3 caps, did nothing. put in a new radiator all was good. </TD></TR></TABLE>

interesting any more info about this?

UPDATE:

did a leak down FINALLY! also did a cranking compression as well while i was bored.

100psi cool motor left to right facing the motor:
9% 6% 7% 6%
140 145 140 140

motor is a very fresh low compression build so and cool motor so i know the crank compression is down a tad but still great numbers. if its lifting the head, its reseating as soon as i am out of boost cause everything checks. going to check the intake manifold gasket (junk parts store one) and retorque the studs to see if maybe something there before i pull the head. oddly i cant see the head reseating instantly after I come out of boost, especially since it would have to been 30 or so pulls with it like this before its caught my attention... but who knows I guess.

twkdCD595

retorqued the head studs as well, did not seem to help.

GPNY

did you ever figure it out?
I have the same type of issue on my sleeved d16...

accord_raffi

ya what happened to this?

srmofo

just a thought make sure the hose in the overflow isnt sitting perfectly flat against the bottom of the overflow...causing it to act as a check valve....all my signs would make me think cap as well, but not after 2 or 3 of them