DCiFound

iTrader: (2)

Hello all. This will be my first time doing this maintenance on my 98 DC2. I have exedy stage 1 clutch that came with TOB and PB i believe. Correct me if im wrong?
I read that others have replaced axle seals and other stuff i cant remember. Is this necessary or prevented maintenance? What should i replace while i have everything apart? I autocross my car if that helps

I will be ordering the seals and other stuff at oemacuraparts dot com

Go...

slowcivic2k

Replace the axle seals if they are not recent.

Replace the rear main seal. There is a housing that bolts and retains the rear main seal. Clean, stick the seal in the freezer, and stick the housing in the oven at around 250 Degrees. Use masking tape to clearance the seal if you need to, then simply push the seal into the housing. This seal must be installed square to prevent it from leaking.

Inspect the input shaft bearing and the seal, repair as required.

You can also freeze the new pilot bearing to make installation easier.

B serious

iTrader: (1)

You definitely don't need to remove the housing to replace the rear main seal. I do it all the time without removing anything. I do it as preventative maintenance when doing a clutch. Just be careful with it. No biggie.

slowcivic2k

I know you do not have to, but to ensure squareness and ease of installation the procedure I used above guarantees that the seal is square to the crankshaft. If the seal is not perpendicular you will have 2 sides of the seal with more pressure, and two others with less. Over time the ares with less sealing pressure will begin to leak.

I know you cannot do this on every engine, but if you have a rear cover, why wouldn't you?

B serious

iTrader: (1)

You'll need to remove/reseal the oil pan to take that housing off. No?

DCiFound

iTrader: (2)

Do you happen to know the part #s for a b18c1?
Thats a good question...however i do have a gasket that i bought. Found out it was a loose oil filter from the PO. Couldnt return it without paying a 20% restocking fee and shipping. So im just sitting on it

slowcivic2k

You can find an OE style seal at any Honda/Acura outlet. I prefer aftermarket kits as they include the rear cover (or rear main cover) o-rings. I also have an easier time finding these, and they do not leak when installed correctly.

The rear main is a pain to replace. Do the job right, and the easiest way possible. Use a hammer, or use your brain..... you choose.

B serious

iTrader: (1)

Pry the old seal out. Don't scratch anything. If you HAVE to scratch something, better the housing than the crank.

I then get the new seal going by gently putting it on over the crank and sliding it forward a bit. To get it in the housing the rest of the way, I flip the old seal backwards and hammer on it to use it as a guide/driver.

I never remove the housing because I don't want to remove the pan and all that other garbage.

kaycee_00

This. It makes putting the new one on with out the other side popping out way easier. Just make sure the spring on the inside of the seal doesn't come loose when your driving the new one in. I did the same with the pilot bearing too, used the old one to keep everything even while tapping around the outside of it.

slowcivic2k

I should clarify, even though my method will take more time it will ensure proper installation of the seal itself with minimal distortion to the new seal. You can hammer it into place for sure, but if you could slip it in without damaging or distorting the seal in any fashion, why wouldn't you? After all, I dream of re-doing the same job twice. Just something to think about.

DCiFound

iTrader: (2)

Can anyone answer this question?

B serious

iTrader: (1)

^the answer is that you do need to remove the pan. I knew that already.

blackeg

yep, ive been doing it like this for years. i use a small rubber mallot to tap. each tap should be 180 degrees away from each other, kinda like how you tighten pressure plate or flywheel bolts. remember you can always give it another tap in but its way harder to pull out one side if its in too far. the spring is the important part it keeps the seal around the crank. id also put a tiny bit of oil in the cup of the seal when installing

side note - 9000 posts bitches, i really need a life

DCiFound

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the input all. Im going to have a friend help me, that knows more about doing the maintenance. Im going to help and be learned how to do this for my future. Heck, it could be a good resume builder lol
Can you give me some insight on what parts you replace when doing your clutch job? Any springs, pins or other stuff I need...My car is at 160k. Im the 6th owner, and I don't know whats been done

Oh, to add to the list, im having to buy a new Rack and Pinion from rockauto

B serious

iTrader: (1)

Buy a exedy clutch kit from rockauto. Comes with the clutch plate, disk, throw out bearing, pilot bearing, and a little tube of grease. If you feel competent, replace the rear main. Get a seal from Honda (I think you apready did).

Make 100% sure that the spring doesn't walk off when you put the lip of the rear main seal over the crank.

Check that spring about 500 times as you put it on. I use vaseline or silicone grease as a lube on the outside and inside lips of the seal so it slides over the crank/into the bore easily.

My method is to put the rear main seal lip over the top surface of the crank first. Then kind of use both my thumbs to make a circle around the rest of the seal as I gently push it over the crank. Its difficult to describe. But I have never had a seal pop off on me using this method. Not that I don't check the "springyness" of the seal over and over to make sure it's still there. If I have ANY doubt, I grab the seal back out while I still can, using fingernails/finger tips.

I use honda high temp urea grease instead of the clay grease that comes in the kit.

I clean all the components thoroughly and then apply the polyurea grease (rumored to be derived from the urine of a NSX and a minotaur).

Resurface the flywheel. Or buy another quality iron/chromoly flywheel.

DCiFound

iTrader: (2)

Im ordering online for the rear main seal and a few other things from Honda. Im trying to get everything I need, cus shipping is raping me. But still get a price break vs buying local.
I have the exedy organic stage 1 clutch kit and lightweight flywheel that came with PB and TOB .
Noted

I started my autocross adventure a few months ago with this car, and now hooked to do more racing. I have a few things I want to get for my setup, but I want to get this maintenance out of the way. . Can I just buy the pins/springs at a local parts store?

Have you replaced axle seals, or replaced other stuff while doing this type of maintenance?
Im going to buy/replace the ISB and seal
Ah, so it smells like transmission fluid lol

B serious

iTrader: (1)

You don't need any springs or pins. There aren't any external springs that I can think of anway.

I do file the "nipple" off the ball of the slave cylinder piston. You'll see it when you look at it. Its a metal "nipple" that forms over time. Its where the slave cylinder acts on the clutch fork.

I can sense you're reading this post with some apprehension. But...you'll see what I mean when you look at it.

DCiFound

iTrader: (2)

I was meaning, when replacing the axle seals, if I need to replace the pins/springs and can I buy them at the local parts store
Also, I hate doing things twice. Im not the type of guy that goes by this quote, "If it aint broke, don't fix it". If I had another car, then breaking down wont be a problem.

B serious

iTrader: (1)

Axle seals aren't a bad idea. They might as well be replaced...and unlike the rear main, any gorilla can install them. Buy them from Honda, though.

There still aren't any springs or pins. But basically, if it seals and you don't want it to leak, your best bet is to get it from Honda.

munky69

did you end up doing all this?