aeon117

Replaced battery, starter, alternator, fuel/main relay, all not necessarily because of the no crank issue, but also because of prior issues that have now been fixed

Car sometimes will not crank when going to start it. Fuel/main relay clicks 3 times. When trying to start, hear a click coming from under hood (assume it's the starter trying to engage), but no cranking.

Seems to only be while really hot out, don't know about when cold.
Car can be easily push started, and the weird thing is is if i leave in gear, take park brake off, and try to push/move car while it's in gear, will usually go to crank successfully afterwards.


Need some suggestions on what the problem could be.
Again, replaced battery, alternator, starter, main/fuel relay.

siblues

iTrader: (1)

Have you checked all the grounds?

holmesnmanny

Ignition switch

aeon117

ignition switch is good. Grounds should be good. I rubbed off the paint underneath the connections with sandpaper, and used degreaser before re-attaching.


It might be lose starter-battery wire, or just a bad wire. I'm trying to diagnose it currently, but it is hard to do with just 1 person...

holmesnmanny

How exactly did you test the ignition switch to determine it was good ?

aeon117

I have a button/switch that is pre-wired to swap out with the starter connection in the under dash fuse box. It is a known working button, and works/has worked in other vehicles I have tried it in. I still get the same results while using it (when it's not cranking, it won't crank with the ign switch, or the push button).

Also, I hear a clicking coming from the engine bay area, everytime I turn to Start. Is this not coming from the starter? (meaning starter is getting power)

hybridmiklo

Get a meter. put it across the battery. when it doesn't crank watch to see if the voltage drops. If it does not drop at all then its a connection or ground issue.

holmesnmanny

So if that button works, then your ignition switch is fine. Ok, got it.

aeon117

I have a feeling you are being sarcastic...
If so, then my logic is this... Try to start with ign switch, doesn't crank. Try to start with the button, also doesn't crank. Since the button is bypassing the ign switch, If the ign switch was bad, the button should be starting the car fine, since this is a working button.

Also, I just noticed this, when trying to start the car when it does not crank, my brake light comes on in the gauge cluster. It is only on when turned to start, turns off as soon as it isn't in start. Didn't noticed this before because I usually leave my ebrake on before I start the car, but noticed this time when trying to bump it in gear to get it to start. I was by my self, and did not feel like trying to push start it myself. Trying to bump it a little bit while it's in gear, or rolling a couple inches and then letting the clutch out no longer works like it did previously. Still no crank when going to start it. I now have to believe it is an electrical/wire problem, or the new starter is also going bad.
Going to try and setup a meter today to where I will be able to see it from the driver's seat when trying to start, but my luck, I won't have starting problems with it connected.

fcm

Sounds like a grounding issue, when one circuit, starter, has an effect on another circuit, brake warning light, it is almost always a grounding problem.

A "clicking" starter solenoid can also be an indication of a grounding problem.

Make sure all your main grounds are good, batt. to chassis and chassis to engine

Intermittent starter problems can also be the result of worn out high current contact in the starter motor soleniod.

https://honda-tech.com/tech-misc-15/...mp%5D-2961164/

https://honda-tech.com/acura-integra...tools-3043958/

Good luck 94

aeon117

Reviving thread from the dead. Problem disappeared, but has recently resurfaced...

I was able to setup a multimeter set to 20 dcv attached to my starter wire, to where I could read the number display from the driver seat while trying to start. When no crank, the starter wire (connection to starter motor) is only getting 0.10 volts. This is with the wire disconnected from the motor. I wasn't able to get a reading while connected.

Jumping the motor straight with a wire from the connection to a constant always live 12v source works. It seems my starter circuit is intermittently not receiving more than 0.12 volts, and other times whatever is enough to run the motor.

I've checked the 3 main grounds I know of (valve cover to chassis, ecu to thermostat, and battery negative to chassis). I've sanded off any paint, and cleaned surface with degreaser, while also checking the wire itself is not worn or destroyed either at connection or along body.
As stated before, I do not think it is ign cylinder problem. I have already tried bypassing the cylinder with a switch connecting 12v constant to the starter wire coming straight off the cylinder. I originally had this setup when I first started noticing the problems. I switched back to the cylinder only, and problem seemed to be solved until now.
Where else should I be testing for intermittent lack of power to starter wire?


Is it possible the alarm I had installed (with a built in starter kill) would be failing, causing this problem? A lot of the times I am able to just unplug starter wire from starter motor and re-plug, wait a few seconds and proceed to get a successful start. So only thing I could think that the alarm failing would be that it "fixes" itself without any further alarm feature interaction. Also, not sure why the starter kill feature would even allow any power through to the starter.


Anyone with suggestions let me know. Thanks!

Vtecsavage

I have a 99 ek with a b18type r swap I was changing the starter i didn't disconnect the battery during the process of taking out the starter made something spark. I removed the distributor to have more space. After I was done with everything I go to start the car but it just cranks.. The distributor does the same function connected or disconnect it don't make not spark. I changed the coil and igniter what else can it be. When I put the switch on I hear the ECU click and the fuel pump turn on. What could be the problem?

fcm

Low voltage on the starter, [exciter] lead is a sign of a connection problem, common is the contacts in a relay, either the starter relay, or a starter cut relay of an alarm,. 94

aeon117

Is the starter relay different from main/fuel relay?

fcm

Yes. the main relay , PGM-FI Main Relay controls power to the fuel injectors, IGP 1&2 to the ECU/ECM and some engine sensors/solenoids, [fuel injector relay]
along with power to the fuel pump, [fuel pump relay]

Except for one(1) of the three(3) power leads going to the PGM-FI Main Relay, 12V+ switched,[hot in start only] the starter relay and starter cut relay are unrelated to the PGM-FI Main Relay.

First thing I would try, bypass the starter cut relay, then bypass the starter relay.

In fact I would eliminate the starter cut relay completely, kind of pointless on a 5 speed, a kill on the power or ground to the PGM-FI Main Relay would be more effective.

You can also get rid of the starter relay. it is only there so you can have a clutch interlock switch. 94