new throttle body..tps help!!!
#1
new throttle body..tps help!!!
recently did a type r motor swap.
when dropping in the motor my tps slightly cracked against the fuel filter.
i thought it was f*cked so i used my friend's b20 tps.
installed a 68mm skunk2 throttle body along with skunk2 intake mani, etc..
installed it and threw on the map and tps without reading the ohms on the tps first (this was before i saw the dr. charles vid explaining to measure the tps before you remove it from the stock tb). hooked up everything. car started up no problems. when i drove it for the next couple days i noticed that as i come to a complete stop. my idle revs at 2-3k and after a few seconds it drops to like 1.5k. tried to adjust the idle, didnt help. no vaccum leaks. hoses are all at the right places.
finally later i adjusted the tps using a multimeter. i tried to measure the ohms...got nothing. volts...got nothing. so i replaced the b20 tps with the old cracked type r tps. which worked. also i read that when measuring the voltage, it should read 0.5 volts closed and 4.5-5.0 volts wide open.
i adjusted it to 0.5 volts closed but when i open that badboy all the way it reads 8-9 volts!
after tightening everything, i took it for a test drive. no idle problems anymore but i feel that my throttle response is slower. when i press on the gas it takes a moment for the car to pull.
so heres my questions...
1. is it just overall a bad tps?
2. wtf is the difference between measuring ohms and volts? also when and why measure one instead of the other?
3. could the reason for the "0.5 to 8-9 volt readings" be because i have a 68mm throttle body instead of the smaller stock 62mm?
I'M STUCK SOMEONE PLEASE HELP...
when dropping in the motor my tps slightly cracked against the fuel filter.
i thought it was f*cked so i used my friend's b20 tps.
installed a 68mm skunk2 throttle body along with skunk2 intake mani, etc..
installed it and threw on the map and tps without reading the ohms on the tps first (this was before i saw the dr. charles vid explaining to measure the tps before you remove it from the stock tb). hooked up everything. car started up no problems. when i drove it for the next couple days i noticed that as i come to a complete stop. my idle revs at 2-3k and after a few seconds it drops to like 1.5k. tried to adjust the idle, didnt help. no vaccum leaks. hoses are all at the right places.
finally later i adjusted the tps using a multimeter. i tried to measure the ohms...got nothing. volts...got nothing. so i replaced the b20 tps with the old cracked type r tps. which worked. also i read that when measuring the voltage, it should read 0.5 volts closed and 4.5-5.0 volts wide open.
i adjusted it to 0.5 volts closed but when i open that badboy all the way it reads 8-9 volts!
after tightening everything, i took it for a test drive. no idle problems anymore but i feel that my throttle response is slower. when i press on the gas it takes a moment for the car to pull.
so heres my questions...
1. is it just overall a bad tps?
2. wtf is the difference between measuring ohms and volts? also when and why measure one instead of the other?
3. could the reason for the "0.5 to 8-9 volt readings" be because i have a 68mm throttle body instead of the smaller stock 62mm?
I'M STUCK SOMEONE PLEASE HELP...
#3
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Re: new throttle body..tps help!!!
The TPS has three wires- 5v reference voltage, signal output and ground. Make sure the reference voltage wire shows 5v. Always check and adjust the TPS with the engine off and the key in the ON position. The TPS should not read more than 4.5v at WOT. It should be somewhere between 4.40v and 4.45v. In your case, you should set the TPS at WOT and then adjust the idle screw until the TPS reads .45v. Fine tune the idle afterward. Ohms are a measure of resistance, as in how much an electrical pathway "reduces" the flow of electricity. Voltage is potential difference or the "pressure" of the flow of electricity. We can get to your other questions once you test the TPS again. GL
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Re: new throttle body..tps help!!!
After your tps checks out, you should realize that you went from a 62mm itr tb, to a 68! thats a huge jump which is why you feel that lag at low end, and why you should feel a huge difference in high end where more air is already flowing, if your car was boosted then the 68 would be even better, but since its n/a you have that low end bogging sensation. Hope that helps you understand, now you have to adjust the air/fuel tables, since your getting more air then fuel where before it was more controlled air.
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