lsvtaksauce

i just recently bought a ls/vtec turbo eg hatch and the guy had a lot of idling issues. First on start up the car revs would jump to 3k rpm and stay there and when you drive it and press on clutch to change gears, the revs would jump up another 1-2k from wherever the rpm is sitting at instead of dropping down. So far ive clean out the IAC, FITV, and throttle body and adjust the throttle screw and got everything back down to 800 rpm at idle and the car dont rev up when clutch is press down anymore, but now when i come to a stop sign and i let it coast to a stop, the car would stall once i stop and wont start at all. I have to wait at least 10-15 min till i can start it up again. i got home and let the car idle for about 30min and the car never died or over heat and idle stay regular, dunno what the problem is can anyone help.

lsvtaksauce

ok so today i drove the car and it stalled again at a stop sign, i took off the gas cap and hear a whoosh sound and i close it back up and start the car and it starts right up, is it vapor locking on me because i thought vapor lock only occurs in carburated engines only

lsvtaksauce

my gas tank is also close to empty(dont feel like filling it up with gas if the car wont take me anywhere)

Do you guys think that might be the problem?

stylolsv

so I just joined and am building an lsv and im not 100% sure on any advise I give just guesses but what about your egr valve have you tried cleaning that yet? I know that's related to idle/revving issues sometimes. as far as stalling you could have clogged lines or fuel filter blockages if its fuel related. I got that suction/pressure build up sound from my da9 as well whenever I took the gas cap off. im not sure that has to do with your problem as much as its a normal build up of pressure from the fuel pump/changes in temperature in the gas tank and emissions\gasses from the fuel. as far as stalling my da used to stall as well turned out I had an injector leak let it run look in your engine bay for leaks and the smell of gas let it run for like 15 minutes check your exhaust and see if theres any unused fuel is coming from your exhaust you might be running really rich and the unused fuel will cause a stall when you drop from higher rev ranges while driving to low idle it could foul the plugs for a little while because they got wet from too much fuel. these are just spitball ideas like I said im not 100% sure what it could be. but as a quick fix if its your daily driver use your idle adjustment screw and try raising the idle to the 1k 1200 range maybe you can make it from a to be without being stuck for a half hour that way lol. then id check all your turbo junk, blow off valve wastegate boost regulator stuff might be clogged or just cheap parts that broke and your turbo is starving your motor of oxogyn or feeding it too much while your trying to idle. stupid little tuning things can make a world of change, that's why I go by two mottos, build it once build it right. and id wrather loose by a mile having built my own car than win from the start and had it built for me.

lsvtaksauce

yeah its running real rich i think, the guy told me its running rich, i can see unburnt fuel coming out of downpipe(he cut the downpipe, so no exhaust). im in the process of getting a new downpipe and exhaust for it, but id like to get this engine stall fix first.

lsvtaksauce

no afr gauge either so i cant really tell other than to look at the downpipe

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

HTF are you boosted and have no monitoring devices? I'm guessing you're running a basemap and aren't even tuned?

stylolsv

Ya I was gonna say if it was a cheap half put together build that was done in a few days to a month it's probably not tuned, do you know if you have a 4 bar map sensor or if the ecu is chipped or even base mapped? If not then I'd start tuning first thing there's DIY vids on YouTube for chipping but that depends on how well you trust YouTube info (personally I don't) and Crome makes a good tuning program. Just tune it and get the right essential parts for turbo. Honda motors generally don't appreciate boost, at least not boost above ten lbs. how many lbs are you running currently?

lsvtaksauce

the guy i bought it from only has a boost gauge in it, He said that he's got it tune before, but i think he was BSing, id rather get it tune at a shop, but i'd like to get a downpipe and exhaust for it first before tune. The car is not a DD, so its just gonna sit in garage till its done, but are all t3t4 turbo downpipes universal?

The ecu is a p72 Crome chip, running 8 psi

Brandi18c1

Might wanna do a compression check. I highly doubt the car's been tuned if he didn't even have a wideband in it. I bought a teg with a high comp b18c that had similar issues. It would idle and drive just fine at operating temp but from a cold start, it wouldn't idle without throttle and would die upon stopping. It was also running super rich. The guy was running 12.5:1 pistons with just an itr basemap (11.1:1) and it turned out I had a piston with busted ring lands and bad rings in 3 cylinders from detonation (and partially bc the idiot didn't file the rings) It'd be a well invested 5 minutes of your life. If that tests fine, at least buy a wideband so you can check the A/F ratio since you'll obviously need to get one anyway.

lsvtaksauce

mine is like the opposite, when its cold it runs fine, but once it warms up it begins to stall only when you coast to a stop and then it wont start up anymore.

lsvtaksauce

just did a compression test, i got 200-205 on all four cylinders

Brandi18c1

I'd be checking the A/F mixture And timing. Are your plugs getting fuel fouled? And do you have a FPR?

lsvtaksauce

No wideband, but the guy said he was running rich. No fpr either

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

Not wise of him to not run those. Really not wise of you either.

Psychoteen101

what info do you have on this car? Did he give you a list as to whats been changed? Sounds like you bought a real cluster f*ck that was thrown together. Your only logical option is to take it to a shop that can tune it. They will tell you exactly what it needs, sounds like its gonna be a lot, and give you an idea of what its gonna take to make it run right. None of us can really give you an idea cause we dont know whats been done to the car. Unless you have a complete list of modifications, youre kind of stuck bringing it to a shop. Sounds like there are multiple issues going on.