bigodub93

I need some help. I have had many cars with many problems. I have used the search button many times, but this time I can't get my cooling system right.

What is going on is I have a freshly built and tuned low comp Ls/vtec on 7psi that keeps throwing a code 11. ( hondata overheating code). It stays under half on the gauge while idling. But when at highway speeds after about 10 min of driving the code 11 kicks in and the gauge does move to 1/2-3/4 and I can no longer go past 5,500 rpm. Then when I get off the freeway the temp goes back down to less then half.

Things I have done. (Coolant is a 50/50 mix)

---Replaced the new oem thermostat with a new 170* one
---replaced the ect sensor for bothe the gauge and the Ecu sensor
---ran the car it idle with the cap off and let the fan come on and off 4 times
Car has a skunk2 dual core radiator that is brand new with the build.

Things I have noticed
* It did not get hot or throw a code on the Dyno
*It only does this after 10 min of driving
*The fan does blow the right way towards the engine
*The 2 times I have had to fill the radiator after it has been drained it thermostat did not open. I poor straight into the radiator until it is full, then turn car on wait for the thermostat to open and then fill it up the rest of the way. But it never opened. It started getting hot so I turned the car off took the upper hose off and pored coolant into it until it was full( coming out the radiator). Then turn the car back on and the thermostat opened. Weird to me. Never had to do it that way before. This happened with both thermostats.
* did a leak down test today and all cylinders are within spec.
* did a compression test and all cylinders are at 155psi


Please help....... I can't figure this out

bigodub93

Drove it home from work today 25 miles, and same check engine light came on after about 10 min. So I decided to check the radiator and hoses. The coolant reservoir way still full and no bubbling. Do funny thing to me is the top hose was hot. To hot to hold on to and the bottom hose was very warm. I could hold it as long as I want without burning myself. Does this mean my thermostat isn't opening?

m4xwellmurd3r

Top should be hot, bottom should be warm. Top comes from the engine (hot side) bottom comes from the radiator (cold side)

It sounds like you're having issues with flow through the radiator.

A cold top would indicate a closed thermostat. The fact that its hot is a good thing.

Is the other side blocked off? That is, the side next to your radiator.

Take off your hood, see if temps improve

bigodub93

I decided to go thru everything earlier so I took out the radiator flushed it with water also took out the thermostat and the water pipe made sure they were clear. I looked at the back of the water pump to see if it was damaged or broken but it checked out good and it is a 22tooth pen honda pump. Put it all back together with no thermostat and drove it hard for like 20 before that damn cel came back on.

bigodub93

The other side has the Ac stuff on it. It has a pusher fan on that side because of the lack of clearence.
Next to the radiator is the cold side of the turbo.

bigodub93

Still having the issue. Could this have anything to do with the tune? So far I have went back to a new oem replacement autozone radiator, oem thermostat, skunk2 hoses,new radiator cap, 50/50 coolant mix. Oem fan. Is there anything else I can do. What could be the problem????

turbonetics3597

Faulty ect sensor use temp gun at tstat?

turbonetics3597

Never mind you replaced already

turbonetics3597

Intercooler blocking airflow to radiator but I would Imagine it would take longer 10 minutes to overheat

bigodub93

I was trying to figure out if 95% of ek's with the big front mount intercoolers have no problem then why do I. I have a decent quality one from go-autoworks but it is tucked up in there and I also still have the front bumper support/beam. Could that be a problem. I have have 2 other turbo cars putting out about the same power and never had a cooling issue.

turbonetics3597

You got me my car has a similar if its a 100 out my ect is 220-225 my solution will be adding a pusher fan to rad. Do the other cars have condensers on them

bigodub93

So you car runs that hot and it's not a problem right?

ojasia

Whats it tuned on?

Whats the Fan Control (FANC) set at?

A new build will run hot for awhile, everything is settling in + FI is adding heat to everything as well.

I would get away from the 50/50's I'm running Distilled and a German additive cant remember the name but its blue. Comes in like a 1.5L white jug from Oreillys.

GL! you need to figure out how hot its getting, keep a laptop hooked up an get it to come on. Did you have the heater valve open when you replaced fluid? Think about everything.

bigodub93

bigodub93

I don't know how to work s300. Never even tried. Because I bought it used I was thinking maybe the coolant protection parameters are set really low and it needs to be adjusted. I need to read up on how to view and change things in s300.
So I don't know what that fanc sensor is set at.
I do know that the fan does come on and go back off. And yes I had the heater on when I bleed the system.

holmesnmanny

Either the fans aren't coming on(or both), it's not giving sufficient cooling or you have blocked airflow somewhere. Those are the only options.

bigodub93

I'm going to start looking at the air flow portion or it. What can be done. What would I have to alter to correct this problem. The only thing that comes to mind is wrap the down pipe to help lower the under his temp and maybe not heat soak the radiator, and add good spacers in hopes of creating air flow thru th engine bay.

bigodub93

I'm going to start looking at the air flow portion or it. What can be done. What would I have to alter to correct this problem. The only thing that comes to mind is wrap the down pipe to help lower the under hood temp and maybe not heat soak the radiator, and add hood spacers in hopes of creating air flow thru entire engine bay.