EF9_TryMe

Motor: Rebuilt B16a2 w/ P30 SiR Pistons from Ground Up.
ACL Rod Bearings
ACL Main Bearings
ACL Thrust Washers
OEM Honda Piston Rings
OEM Honda Headgasket
OEM Honda Valve Cover Gasket
OEM Honda Oil Pan Gasket
OEM Honda Timing Belt
OEM Honda Cam Seals
OEM Honda Intake manifold gasket
OEM Honda Valve Seals
Head is also Polished, and Resurfaced.
OBD2a so far, will convert to OBD1 via P28, and chip alter for boost.

I did a rehone on it myself with a regular drill hone.

Im not getting any fuel at the moment, but I am not really worried about that. I'm kind of worried about the compression and why it's so low in two cylinders.

The motor has not been broken into yet.

Cylinder 1 is reading about 170-175
Cylinder 2 is at about 90-100 ( Maybe bent valve ? It's impossible because I heard bent valves are only at about 20-40 PSI. Is this true ?)
Cylinder Cylinder 3 is at about 160-170
Cylinder 4 is at about 120-130

I was thinking about doing a wet check to see if it'l change the numbers, or can these numbers be low because the motor has just been rebuilt. I rebuilt the motor about 2-3 months ago and it was just sitting on an engine stand before I had dropped it in the car. I used assembly lube and everything for rod bearings, cams caps, the head has been resurfaced, timing belt was put on right, TDC, and everything was adjusted. Please help! could it be the valves aren't adjusted. I am going to get me some starting fluid tonight and see if I can start it over like that before I go and get me some fuel to pour into the car. Because I was right below E when I had the car pulled into my garage about 3 months ago to work on the project.

My concern is how come cylinder 1 and 3 are so far away from compression then the other two, will the other two jump back up after a dry check or re-adjusting the valves ?

No the block has never been ballanced, but I am using p30 pistons so I don't think there should be a reason to ballance it right ? Those pistons were made for that bottom end.

EF9_TryMe

bump.

rollinswapshop

with no oil on the rings you may get a false compression reading. you said that you honed the cylinders yourself.did you mic the cylinder or the pistons. did you check the ring end gap and install the rings properly with the end gaps opposing each other. If you over honed it the cylinders could be out of round. If the valves are bent or to tight then you would get a false compression reading as well.

EF9_TryMe

yes I did. I used one of those 3 hone stones to hone the cylinder walls, i didn't mic it either after the honing process because I thought it wouldn't be necessary since I didn't

hone it for a very long time. I only honed it to get a cross sketch sorta across the cylinder walls so they don't look glazed anymore.

I am going to pour 2 table spoons of oil tonight into the cylinders and see what kind of readings i get like that.

The motor still hasn't been broken into so I'm not sure if the compression is going to be restored yet. I have to identify my fuel problem, but I think I just don't have enough fuel in my gas tank because when I pulled in the car for the swap it was below E, and it was sitting for about 2-3 months before I actually

had finished the whole project.

EF9_TryMe

WTF! Okay im really going bananas here, I got back home. Did a wet check on my build, and the compression bumped itself up a little. I had oil clogged into my compression tester so I wasn't getting accurate readings at number 3 and 4.

I cleaned it out with some brake parts cleaner and managed to get it working again properly, then I checked the compression on the other cylinders and it was a little higher. I'm guessing the rings just needed to seat in.

I don't know why I did a compression check on a freshly built motor, but what the hell. So I sprayed starting fluid and went to go crank it over. It wanted to crank over for like 5 seconds, but then it died out.

Next I thought it was no fuel so i go to the gas station and get me about 2 gallons and pour it into the car. Now I try cranking it over, and it doesn't want to start. WTF!? I get these huge popping sounds maybe coming from my exhaust

everytime I try to start over the car, I really can't tell where they are coming from, but they are there somewhere every 5 seconds.

So I try doing another compression check and realize that my battery is starting to take a **** on me, and then again i get inaccurate readings probably because of the slow response the starter is cranking over.

Please! somebody help, I am really frustrated over this car I need to get it running.


my question is could it be that I fouled the plugs or the wires with oil from getting proper and enough spark ?

That's the thing I hate about not having somebody else to crank over the car while I try to figure out what the hell is wrong. ARGH!

EF9_TryMe

Bump.

Also can the huge popping noise from time to time be a bent valve ?

kyden

how much oil did you put in the cylinder for the wet compression test?

EF9_TryMe

The car is obd2a to obd1 conversion with a p28.

about 2 tablespoons of oil, not a lot. But let's forget the compression check for now.

This is fu**ing bullshit man, I worked my *** off for this car and now it doesn't want to start.

I kept trying to crank it over and it gets these huge ****ing backfires from the back of the exhaust sometimes. I checked spark, but the spark seems to be really weak, I only see spark click in once every revolution. Spark from the original wires that came with the

motor wasn't really feeling that when I stuck I screw driver inside and tested it out. So I swapped out the wires for the single cam wires I had left over and stuck a screwdriver inside and moved it to the closest metal possible ( hood latch ) there was

a little bit of spark jumping out from the middle of the screwdriver to the metal of the hood latch.

The other question I was concerned about was this loud constant pulse noise that I am getting it sounds like it's coming somewhere from the throttle body, fuel rail, injectors when I am done trying to crank it over.

Then when I turn the key off, and put it back on accessory(II) before starting it over, you can hear the pulse from the same destination but it's not as loud. It's only loud when you are done trying to crank it over.

Dammit man! There's no way I messed up with the engine harness wires, depinning, repinning, I mean everything was labeled, sketched out on paper where all the pins went to the plug it's impossible if I have screwed this engine

harness tuck up. I'm not concerned about the engine harness as much I'm just wondering what that huge loud pulse can be from the intake manifold, injectors, throttle body area. Could it be the soldering of the whole junction

connectors on the engine harness...I mean what difference would it make, there were 3 junction connectors and I made sure I soldered all the wires together and heatshrunk them, I only soldered the ones that shared the same lead. Will this draw to a factor with the whole pulse thing ?

EF9_TryMe

Bump. C'mon somebodys gotta know an answer.

EF9_TryMe

I am going to give the timing belt a try and see if that's the problem, and re-adjust the valves if the timing belt doesn't fix the problem. I think it just might be off by a tooth or two, if I can't figure anything out I'll just have it towed to Ill Garage.

EF9_TryMe

Timing belt was off by one tooth... -facepalm!-

Enjoy. ;]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vwPpzFLVchQ

full Circling

Take a break if you need to, go do something completely different, and i bet when you come back to it you'll figure it out...

Most of us have been there. Throwing wrenches into the stratosphere helps, too... lol

Edit: Sounds good! Even more so, considering you honed that **** yourself.

EF9_TryMe

Yeah im surprised, i guess ill give myself a pat on the back for a first time motor build by myself.