bnodle

just swapped an h23a dohc vtec in my eg on first crank the motor started with no problems ran fine idled @ 750 turned it off after about 2 mins. tried starting it up again the next day an car cranks, has fuel pressure, gets spark, but wont fire. The motor just cranks and backfires makes a wierd deep thump noise

bnodle

damn no love bump

civickiller

Sounds like your timing is off. Timing belt might've jumped a tooth or 2, hopefully no valves are bent

bnodle

thats what i thought also but I'm tdc everywhere and dizzy is pointing towards 1 I have no clue what to do next...anything else you can think of would be a huge help thanks

bnodle

come on no techs on honda-tech??

hybridmiklo

makes sure an injector is not leaking. Remove plugs and make sure the piston tops are not wet. But in reality, it sounds like a timing problem.

civickiller

Any CELs? What ecu?

bnodle

not throwing any cels using a p28 sst chipped with an h22a basemap. All plugs smell fouled like gas but are not soaked like they are just spraying. changed them out anyway and put 270cc RC's no change still backfiring and throwing sparks/ flames

bnodle

also re timed car put new greddy timing belt and ballancing belt. no change???? did dry compression test cyl #1 at tdc 5puffs=120psi dry

holmesnmanny

Check if you got connectors backwards...such as iacv and iat ... and map and tps

If those check out get a p13 to rule out the ecu/tune

m4xwellmurd3r

My friends f20b had this issue due to havibg the wrong distributor, causing it to try and fire on the exhaust stroke. Big fire show and had that odd thumping beat to it.

Make sure your distributor is timed properly. Take off the cap and make sure the rotor is on correctly.

Odd that it ran fine then just started spitting fire out the exhaust

bnodle

Thanks for the response, after i did the timing belt i checked the dizzy and at tdc it's pointing directly at 1 just like everything says it should be. Also how could it be off? there's only one way to put the screw in it when attaching the rotor. I'm banging my head against the wall and coming up with nothing. I wish it had a damn problem so i could fix it lol

bnodle

Anything other than timing, fuel maybe please help.

m4xwellmurd3r

Make sure 100% that your cam timing is dead on. If both gears are off by a tooth or two (by having the crank off by a few degrees when you think its at tdc) your car will act like youre describing.

I had that issue with a friends car. He was missing the lower timing cover so we had to eyeball tdc by using a screwdriver down the sparkplug hole. Caused the gears to both be off by a tooth or two and wouldnt start.

boostedeg138

bump

bnodle

ok ive timed it by the cams, pully, flywheel, dizzy, everything i can think of. is there a way to lock tdc on the cams and crank in tdc on the h23a like i can on my b20??

bnodle

Bump

holmesnmanny

If your car is obd1 it most definitely could be off. However that won't make your car shoot out flames. I already gave you one idea. Another possibility is a clogged cat.

H22 SL33P3R

Sounds like timing to me. I too had a similar issue after I swapped a h22 in my eg hatch.. I first started it and ran idled real nice. The next day I started it and it was sputtering really bad and it would barely idle.. I too run a p28 chipped with h22 base. I bought the ecu like that so for sh.ts and giggles i had the ecu cleared and re chipped. Came home and car ran great. Still today..

bnodle

still same thing, ive redone the timing 3x and my friend did it 2x do I need a resistor box on this swap, the engine is a 99 and car is obd1 95

bnodle

bumppmub

snobordboy

Did you compression test all 4 cyl? 120 psi is a bit low, even for a dry/ cold test, unless the tester reads super low. My H23 Frank motor still had 135 psi with a busted ringland, when the other 3 holes were at 235, but that was a hot test.

Pro-SeriesFab

Did you time the cams by an actual degree wheel or just on timing marks?