whats_A_eh2

I have searched, iv been dealing with this problem for a long time now. a couple years ago i purchased a 94 cx with a obd2 gsr already installed. Car ran great except smoked at high rpm.. i pulled the motor a rebuilt it. i used all oem parts except i replaced the pistons with weisco low comp. pistons to add boost. I can not get vtec to kick in or for this car to run corectly il list the problems and what i did.
1. No vtec-I checked voltage on switch, ground. i removed solinoid to clean it out. i clicked the solinoid manually, i wired vtec straight to the ecu everything checks out, no vtec. Can this be a mechanical problem like vtec not getting oil?
2. Even when below 4500 car is VERY SLOW and slugish like its getting a insane amout of fuel bogging out like its flooded and i am noticing very bad gas milage too.
3. This is my 3rd ecu
4. Car keeps overheating, changed thermostat and water temp sensor
5. when the sensor behind the intake mani is plugged in the idle surges like crazy when i unplug it it goesa away.
6. I also noticed the logic ground on ecu was loose(black/red) wire

I never had any of these problems before the rebuild

DONT TELL ME TO CHECK MY OIL
thanx

TheJunBuilt

possible that when doing the rebiuld that the vtec components were left out of the head

black97civic

the engines going to be considerably slower with low compression pistons neways. are your talking about teh idle control solinoid on the intake manifold if so u should prolly replace it or try cleaning it out with some brake cleaner. vtec is oil pressure controlled so i guess it could be possible your not getting enough oil pressure. u should probably get a gauge and check it. does yhour cooling fan work and obviously make sure have coolant and no air pockets in the system. and check your radiator cap. fix your ecu wire. i would get a hondata and do a little tuning

black97civic

o yeh check your oil....

TheJunBuilt

he deff said dont tell him to check his oil..lol

OH_1fstgsr

iTrader: (2)

Does the ECU match the engine? OBD2a or OBD2b? P72 ECU, Right?
What kind of Intake manifold? Stock GSR or single runner?
What is the compression now? about 9:1?
VTEC solenoid is ok?

macson

What kind of compression are you looking at now, and what head gasket?

My1stTeg93

Hi all im gonna pick this up where it was left off vs starting a new thread...

i just swapped in a b18c1 into my ls freshly rebuilt with p30 pistons and ctr cams i probably have about 75 miles on it now and it is slow as fck timing was checked ignition timing checked and then put on full advance and no difference was made.. had a friend adjust valves which are now way louder than before and still no change im thinking he made them too loose using fact specs so im gonna redo them with a 17 intake and 15 exhaust to see if they quiet down. but still car has no ***** how many miles before compression starts building up from rings seating? after the rebuild we started a compresion test and cyl 4 was 190 but the gauge broke so never got to test the rest.

JDM_JNKY

iTrader: (4)

FOLLOW THESE STEPS, YOUR RESOLUTION SHOULD COME FROM THEM. DO NOT BE OVER CONFIDENT AND SKIP ANY; IF YOU SKIP, YOU ARE ONLY CHEATING YOURSELF.

Good Luck

B18C1 Motor Swap Guide - Honda, Acura Tech Website, tutorials, tuning and HOW-TO's. Drag racing, street racing, road racing - C-speedR.com

B18C Valve Adjustment - Honda, Acura Tech Website, tutorials, tuning and HOW-TO's. Drag racing, street racing, road racing - C-speedR.com

Setting Ignition Timing - Honda, Acura Tech Website, tutorials, tuning and HOW-TO's. Drag racing, street racing, road racing - C-speedR.com

Compression Test - Honda, Acura Tech Website, tutorials, tuning and HOW-TO's. Drag racing, street racing, road racing - C-speedR.com

Leak Down Test - Honda, Acura Tech Website, tutorials, tuning and HOW-TO's. Drag racing, street racing, road racing - C-speedR.com

B18C Timing Belt - Honda, Acura Tech Website, tutorials, tuning and HOW-TO's. Drag racing, street racing, road racing - C-speedR.com

My1stTeg93

step one was obviously done when we installed the motor
step 2 was done but i will redo it cuz i know its too loose
step 3 was done and then redone today i took it out of full advance
step 4 was done today cold. cyl 1-4 250 240 250 250 less than 10% difference
step 5 not done since i dont have that tool but wondering if its even needed since compression is high
step 6 was done when engine was built.. i now have 100 miles on it..

once again mods are p30 pistons ctr cams Dc headers stock ls exhaust no air intake ls throttle body (i know i know i bought a gsr tb today should b here tomorrow p72 ecu vtec sub harness to add for pressure switch and knock sensor
i had a modded gsr im on it with butterfly del but swapped it out for the stock one yesterday dont have iab system so just connected vac line to iab diaphram thing to close runners vtec kicks in round 4400 but only if im getting on it but feel no power difference all the way to redline.. the car is just a dog if i just cruise it to 4400 or up vtec dont kick in this happened post valve lash adjustment which is y i wanna redo it.

according to the calculator i should have 11.5:1 CR with the current setup

My1stTeg93

update : got my gsr tb and installed it rechecked timing adjusted 2 teeth car is better but still not right when i wot its holding back u can really feel it holding back.. i still think timing may still be off so my question is this.. does using ctr cams change the timing where the marks become false? or is it the same angle as the gsr cams? the cam gears say pr3 on them im assuming thats the normal cam gears? and does moving the timing belt affect ignition timing to where i have to re set ign timing again?

My1stTeg93

anyone?

My1stTeg93

wow no one can help me get this dam thing running right? all i need is information.

gonna keep updating till someone who has done this setup can chime in

Anyways today i re did the valve adjustment did 16 on intake and 19 on exhaust and its still noisy i know they are supposed to be a lil noisy but man i hate that it kinda sounds like a lil diesel .. i miss my nice quiet ls motor sound

car is still holding back i once again checked timing and it is on the money so is ignition timing at 16 deg but u can feel the car hesitate it has a dead spot on acceleration when cold and when warn u feel the surging like something is holding it back. dunno what else it can be but a tune.. i just dont want to spend money i dont currently have on a tune if it is not the problem

speedjunkie_g35

You have yet to mention ecu and if it is stock.

Whats your oil pressure??

holmesnmanny

Don't just check oil pressure. Check oil pressure at the vtec pressure switch. A lot of times if you don't put the oil control orifice in or the oring that goes with it, the head won't have enough pressure to activate vtec.

My1stTeg93

p72 virgin ecu obd2 oil pressure i dont know i do not have a gauge. but my engine waS nice and quiet before my buddy did the valve adjustment so it has to be good right?. vtec does kick in and i get a slight power increase but the car is just a dog. im in orlando anyone know how to get a hold of Mostro tuning?

F22Master

You are probably doing the valve adjustment wrong. Most likely measuring in the wrong place.

Spiff671

HOLD UP. Sure, go ahead and verify valve lash, but as speedjunkie_g35 mentioned, the issue here is Tuning.

B18c1 with p30 pistons is a substantial increase in compression when compared with a stock B18c1 GSR. Paired with CTR cams, I bet you are getting tons of pre-detonation and your ECU is pulling a bunch of timing. Don't forget that these engines have knock sensors. The ECU retards ignition timing (I believe it also prevents vtec engagement) when it detects certain knock levels. Your B18c1 engine has a knock sensor (unless you removed it). Also, your P72 ECU indeed has knock sensor circuitry.

A virgin OBD2 P72 ECU will get the car running but it is imperative that you get your car tuned ASAP. Fuel up with the highest octane Gasoline at the pump, and drive conservatively to your local tuner. Drive as if your grandma is riding with you and she's holding a hot cup of coffee. I know it's hard, but stay out of VTec!

I'm glad you mentioned a tuning shop in your post that I quoted. I just wanted to reinforce that you're on the right track. Good luck buddy.

HondaPartsHero

Exactly how did he do the valve adjustment?

LTCxD2B

X2 with spiff

My1stTeg93

it was done with the engine cold put number one on top dead center with the cam lobes face sitting just under the ridge and did 17 on intake 19 on exhaust rotate the engine 180 degrees number 3 comes up to top dead centerI just those rotated another 180 degrees and repeat...the second time i did it I did 16 intake and 19 exhaust but I've been reading and apparently a lot of people like to do 15 on the intake and 17 on the exhaust what do you guys think?

Spiff671

Here are ITR valve clearance specs.

My1stTeg93

ok so 15 and 17 it is then thats probably why its so loud.. .. i will do it thursday since i will be off. and post back the results... Thanks spiff

My1stTeg93

well initially he did it with engine hot and all he did was loosen every single lock nut till the valve closed with a thunk then turned the valves till they got hard and locked them.. didnt use a feeler gauge. cranked up the car and it shook violently like it was on 1 cyl.. then i left the car there overnight and he did it cold and to the ls specs under the hood. and thus the noisy engine was born

LTCxD2B

Time for a leak down test lol ... Na the valves are probably not opening all of the way .. There is a wrong way and a right way


There are vids with detail on youtube and write ups every where else so idk why you thought that was a good idea lol