sh!ft

so i got another cluster rpm face for this eg cluster i got, and i wanted to swap it out for the old existing one with a shorter rev limit on it.

all you really need is a phillips screwdriver small enough to fit the screws that hold down the rpm face gauge.

heres an example of what it looks like now:


just a 6.5k rev limit.


here is the one i want to install


when you 1st want to remove the clear face plate that is attached to the black housing that attaches to the actual cluster housing, there are 3 black tabs on the top. as well as 3 on the bottom. push down on the top of them and they will pop out. you kind of have to do this to all three of the simultaneously and push outward while trying to open either side.



once you get it off it should look like this


with your 2 fingers(index and thumb) remove the needle from the rpm gauge. be careful not to break it



next, you remove the 2 screws


then simply lift the rpm face gauge out of the cluster. heres a comparison of the oem one on the left, and the replacement on the right


the replacement was a little dirty, soooooo i took a towel and some regular non additive water and cleaned it. once you get to this point simply drop the new gauge in and reverse every step you just did and you will be done! here is the finished product

Relic1

and when you press the needle back on the tach will be way off... you'll likely idle around 2500-3500 RPM.
I've done several clusters, recalibrating the needles is the 'fun' part.
(I use an o-scope, waveform generator and power supply - but it can be done using known states of a working car)

silent1jt

x2
i went down that road when i tore open my gauge cluster on my 94 accord. i gave up and just found me a whole new gauge cluster.

sh!ft

Has already been covered on that area. Calibrated it when it was laying down. It sits perfectly.

Relic1

what does liying down have to do with anything?
the actual needle (under the black cover) is counter weighted, so verticle/horizontal/etc does not matter.
the problem is the calibrated position puts a tiny bit of force against the pin (this holds the needle still and prevent bouncing) pulling the needle off causes the gauge shaft to return to the rest position, which should be roughly 1/4-1/2" below the pin. Reapplying the needle means you'll be that much off.

I'm simply stating what I've seen on the 20+ EG clusters I've seen and countless others I've heard about. Maybe yours is different.
what RPM is your needle pointing at idle?

BTW, a MUCH easier method would have been to replace the entire tach.

sh!ft

If I had the entire setup then I would have done so. I checked the needle where it sat before and made note of it and when I put it back on I already knew where to set it at. Counter weight or not, it still sits where it originally was before I even touched it.

Relic1

so you pulled the needle over the pin and let it rest before removing it?
I've heard of some people having luck with this method but it's not that accurate.