check list for buying used parts(b series)
12-29-2012, 11:33 PM
#1
check list for buying used parts(b series)
after my disaster build this is long overdue
and i hope this might help you avoid buying busted parts.
im not an expert and dont claim to know everything about honda engines but i know some things to look for and with group effors maybe we can make this into a complete check list to help buyers not to get ripped off by craigslist scumbags.
most of this applies to B series OBD1 since thats what i worked with. others may apply to.
feel free to add the OBD2 and other engine specific things to look for.
make it in printable format so people can print it out and use checkmarks or marker to mark checked items.
i will be adding more info and reorganizing this thread as i get more time and more people involved
once its somewhat complete i will make this into a single sheet printable checklist for each section so you can take it with you and go through it at the time of purchase.
1 intake manifold
2 head
3 block
4 transmission
5 ecu
6 harness
7 brakes
8 complete engine
*when buying parts in general look for complete assembled parts uness you have (or can easily get missing pieces)
*WRITE DOWN all issues/missing pieces you find and ADD UP the cost of repairs or missing parts. and add it to the total to see if its worth buying.
*it took me more time and money to find missing pieces when i was building my engine then if i just bought a whole swap and took parts off.
*try to gather as much info about buyer as possible.but also understand that buyer doesnt know you.
*DONT TURN INTO A SCAMMER YOURSELF when you brake the part you just bought cuz you dumm dont go running to the guy that sold it to you and cry that he sold you busted part thats fn lame.
i dont give out my address to everyone i sell parts to for known reasons.
phone number,email, facebook name etc, in other words more than one way to contact the seller if anything goes wrong
and maybe a simple piece of paper that lists any damage that is on the part and that its free of deffects otherwise. and his full name and signature.
always a good idea to snap a picture of their car that shows licence plate when they pull up or before they leave.
since everyone have smartphones now TAKE A PICTURE OF THE PART you buying before you leave that way theres noquastions later about the condition of the part
if you dont know much aboot the engine take it to a shop for inspection. a 60-80 dollar fee is cheaper than 1000 dollar bill to fix tha engine you just bought and time you wasted.
<<<1>>> MANIFOLD
when buying stock intake manifold look check for damage
stripped bolt holes,missing bolts,jbweld,
check for signs of porting, and ask to show proof of professional porting.
if no proof then make a decision if you want it bad enough because its a gamble.
everyone is a PRO head porter in their garage,
"my buddy did it he knows what hes doin", "IDK i bought it like that","my car made mad power with this" doesnt prove anything.
if buying complete manifold make sure you got right injectors, correct fuel rail and other sensors.
when buying aftermarket intake manifold make sure it is a correct manifold for your engine
not redrilled or modified in any way. B16 and gsr heads have different intake runner angle.
and not compatible with eachother even when redrilled.
<<<2>>>HEAD
if possible bring a straight edge with you to check head surface for warping
diagonally from one corner to opposite.
and a can of carb cleaner to check for bent valves, leaking valve seats
bring a 14mm socket to turn the cam gears.
##head:deep surface scratches, prior resurface(and how much was taken off)
warpage,signs of dropping,combustion chamber damage,signs of DIY porting(ask for proof of professional work)
##valve seats:signs of leaking, contact area,pitting
##valves: bent valves, pitting on contact area, dents on edge from piston contact, burnt valves,buildup on valve stem(leaking valve seals)
##check if all the valves are from same manufactures some people replace broken valves with mismatching valves
##retainers: check for cracks, check to make sure all the keepers are in place
##springs: make sure theres dual springs where they should be, OEM springs are color coded find the pant stripe to check which ones are in there.
##vtec solenoid: make sure you have correct one(yes some peope tried)
##camshaft:check for extreme wear on lobes,take cam caps off and check for wear on can journals and cams (deep grooves)
##adjustable cam gears(aftermarket cam gears):damage on timing belt surface(teeth)
remove all cam gear screws to make sure they are not stripper( look in screw holes too)
check cam gear bolts that hold them on camshafts to make sure they are not stripped also
check for cracks around cam gear bolt on cams
## distributor: check distributor stamp to make sure its correct one for your engine(stamp is on one of the legs),test coil and ignitor with a multimeter( instructions can be found here or google or service manual)
<<<3>>> BLOCK
##block: mating surface scratches,cracks in the block
##stripped bolts/holes:TENSIONER BOLT THREADS(important), check engine mount holes,headbolt threads, oil pan threads,oil pressure sensor threads,etc
##cylinders: deep scratches, cracks, cylinder wall separation,signs of blowby(vertical lines)
##pistons:burn spots, missing chunks,dings on the top of the piston
##crank:rotate the crank to make sure its smooth,
##bearings: take oil pan off, wiggle each rod by hand to see if theres any play, black color rod ends means overheating.same for main bearings.
##oil pickup: look inside oil pickup orifice for metal shavings or clogged filter net
## oil pan" make sure its not dented or deformed any other way,make sure oil drain bolt hole is not stripped.
##rear main seal: check for signs of leaks.
##thermostat: check if its old and busted.
##harmonic ballancer(crank pulley) make sure no chunks are missing (it is not ballanced with chunks missing), make sure the rubber in center section is still intact and not falling out.
<<<4>>>that busted TRANNY
bring a magnetic pickup tool with you
##stripped transmission mount bolt holes VERY COMMON so make sure to check
## fluid leaks from case seal.
##signs of impact on the bottom, cracks in case
##take out the bottom drain plug and stick your pinky in it see what comes out lol (metal shavings,dirty fluid)
## stick the magnetic tool in it and wiggle and see if any more shavings or other metal chunks get picked up.
##phillips screwdriver in the shifter rod and shift through every gear and rotate to make sure it goes in every gear smooth
##check axle seals for damage
##check differential for excessive play while in gear
not a good expert about the innards if anyone wants to add i will paste it here for when case is off the tranny
<<<5>>> ECU
the ecu code list is available EVERYWHWERE so you can check what ecu fits your car
jdm ecu is square box and surface mount components and do not have barometric sensor/vtec pressure switch
##p30,p72,p73 ecus have knock sensor boards, p28,p06,p75 dont have knock sensor boards
##pop the cover off and smell it if it smells like burned electronics then closely inspect it
##look for blown out components(diodes resistors etc) look for dark(usually dark brown or black) spots on circuit board, or other discolored parts
##pop the back cover and check the other side for any damage or brurnt traces or signs of soldering etc
## check to make sure the right circuit board is matching the case(board code is on top right part of the ecu)
##best way to test is to bring a car that uses same ecu and plug it in and go for a short test drive
##chipped ecu. crome(xenocron or moates) neptune(moates demon board) hondata... go to their webpage and find the RTP that you are buying to make sure you know how it looks before going to check out the ecu because some people say its chipped for neptune or hondata. meaning theres a socket installed but no RTP board... or a chip burned in neptune is not same as actual RTP board
<<<6>>> engine harness
p28 SOHC vtec harness(shorter than DOHC harness and O2 sensor is on the front of the engine)
p30 DOHC vtec harness(knock sensor plug and O2 sensor behind the engine
p72 DOHC vtec harness(knock sensor plug and IAB, O2 sensor on the back
p75 DOHC nonvtec harness(no vtec solenoid/vtec pressure switch no knock sensor)
AUTO harness is same as manual and auto tranny solenoid plug can be plugged in directly into reverse switch on manual tranny(someone can confirm that is it so for ALL b series harnesses?)
##always go through the whole harness DONT JUST SKIMP OVER IT AND CALL IT GOOD.
##start at the shock tower plug and finish at the other shock tower plug
## check for cut and spliced wires, butt connectors, squished parts of the harness, burned or melted wires,BENT pins in the plug
##usual suspects for cutting injectors, oil pressure switch,speed sensor vtec solenoid and pressure switch and dizzy plugs
##if they are cut make sure they are soldered properly and insulated with either heatshrink or good amount of electrical tape (no duck tape or office tape)
##D15z1 harness does NOT plug in a civic vtec without modification.
<<<7>>> brakes
##rear honda calipers seize very often(caliper sliding pins get dry/corroded/overheat) and get stuck in one position making uneven wear for the pads
3 of my hondas had them stuck. so its very common and alot of people dont even notice that.
##theres also many brake conversion articles to go check for proper parts
##press on the piston to see what kind of fluid comes out of the fitting (good clean or black and rusty) that will tell you the condition.
## is the caliper itsself extremely rusty? it is not that easy to clean i tried already even with a wire brush
## calipers have anti corrosion coating on them from factory( the yellowish golden color ) once that is gone it will rust very quickly
##i would not advise buying a used brake master cylinder because you cant tell if it leaks or not. new ones are not that expensive
##always add the cost of brake rotors and pads when comparing the prices on craigslist.
<<<8>>>
complete engine is a bit harder to inspect since you cant really see inside the cylinder
if you have a camera inspection tool( costco has one for 130? that fits inside spark plug opening) bring it with you and bright LED flash light
bring an oil pressure tool, compression tester and the battery if transmission is attached with starter
## when engine has the transmission and starter you can crank it with a 12 volt battery by directly powering the starter.
## WARNING!!! MAKE SURE SOMEONE IS HOLDING THE ENGINE FROM TIPPING OVER.
## hook up the oil gauge to the oil and crank to see if it builds up oil pressure
## do same thing to check compression
##read sparkplugs while you have them out also
## take the valve cover off and peek around
## pull the dipstick out to check the oil condition
##take distributor cap off and look for corrosion and oil inside dizzy
##under valve cover, dark brown and very dark brown color means it wasnt maintained very well
##ideal color should be light or darker golden color, black with lots of goop is bad
## rotate the crank with spark plugs in you will feel pressure build up in cylinder and then hissing. and you will know if one of the cylinders has no compression because it will not build pressure if theres no way to check with starter and the battery.
thats it for now. to be continued
and i hope this might help you avoid buying busted parts.
im not an expert and dont claim to know everything about honda engines but i know some things to look for and with group effors maybe we can make this into a complete check list to help buyers not to get ripped off by craigslist scumbags.
most of this applies to B series OBD1 since thats what i worked with. others may apply to.
feel free to add the OBD2 and other engine specific things to look for.
make it in printable format so people can print it out and use checkmarks or marker to mark checked items.
i will be adding more info and reorganizing this thread as i get more time and more people involved
once its somewhat complete i will make this into a single sheet printable checklist for each section so you can take it with you and go through it at the time of purchase.
1 intake manifold
2 head
3 block
4 transmission
5 ecu
6 harness
7 brakes
8 complete engine
*when buying parts in general look for complete assembled parts uness you have (or can easily get missing pieces)
*WRITE DOWN all issues/missing pieces you find and ADD UP the cost of repairs or missing parts. and add it to the total to see if its worth buying.
*it took me more time and money to find missing pieces when i was building my engine then if i just bought a whole swap and took parts off.
*try to gather as much info about buyer as possible.but also understand that buyer doesnt know you.
*DONT TURN INTO A SCAMMER YOURSELF when you brake the part you just bought cuz you dumm dont go running to the guy that sold it to you and cry that he sold you busted part thats fn lame.
i dont give out my address to everyone i sell parts to for known reasons.
phone number,email, facebook name etc, in other words more than one way to contact the seller if anything goes wrong
and maybe a simple piece of paper that lists any damage that is on the part and that its free of deffects otherwise. and his full name and signature.
always a good idea to snap a picture of their car that shows licence plate when they pull up or before they leave.
since everyone have smartphones now TAKE A PICTURE OF THE PART you buying before you leave that way theres noquastions later about the condition of the part
if you dont know much aboot the engine take it to a shop for inspection. a 60-80 dollar fee is cheaper than 1000 dollar bill to fix tha engine you just bought and time you wasted.
<<<1>>> MANIFOLD
when buying stock intake manifold look check for damage
stripped bolt holes,missing bolts,jbweld,
check for signs of porting, and ask to show proof of professional porting.
if no proof then make a decision if you want it bad enough because its a gamble.
everyone is a PRO head porter in their garage,
"my buddy did it he knows what hes doin", "IDK i bought it like that","my car made mad power with this" doesnt prove anything.
if buying complete manifold make sure you got right injectors, correct fuel rail and other sensors.
when buying aftermarket intake manifold make sure it is a correct manifold for your engine
not redrilled or modified in any way. B16 and gsr heads have different intake runner angle.
and not compatible with eachother even when redrilled.
<<<2>>>HEAD
if possible bring a straight edge with you to check head surface for warping
diagonally from one corner to opposite.
and a can of carb cleaner to check for bent valves, leaking valve seats
bring a 14mm socket to turn the cam gears.
##head:deep surface scratches, prior resurface(and how much was taken off)
warpage,signs of dropping,combustion chamber damage,signs of DIY porting(ask for proof of professional work)
##valve seats:signs of leaking, contact area,pitting
##valves: bent valves, pitting on contact area, dents on edge from piston contact, burnt valves,buildup on valve stem(leaking valve seals)
##check if all the valves are from same manufactures some people replace broken valves with mismatching valves
##retainers: check for cracks, check to make sure all the keepers are in place
##springs: make sure theres dual springs where they should be, OEM springs are color coded find the pant stripe to check which ones are in there.
##vtec solenoid: make sure you have correct one(yes some peope tried)
##camshaft:check for extreme wear on lobes,take cam caps off and check for wear on can journals and cams (deep grooves)
##adjustable cam gears(aftermarket cam gears):damage on timing belt surface(teeth)
remove all cam gear screws to make sure they are not stripper( look in screw holes too)
check cam gear bolts that hold them on camshafts to make sure they are not stripped also
check for cracks around cam gear bolt on cams
## distributor: check distributor stamp to make sure its correct one for your engine(stamp is on one of the legs),test coil and ignitor with a multimeter( instructions can be found here or google or service manual)
<<<3>>> BLOCK
##block: mating surface scratches,cracks in the block
##stripped bolts/holes:TENSIONER BOLT THREADS(important), check engine mount holes,headbolt threads, oil pan threads,oil pressure sensor threads,etc
##cylinders: deep scratches, cracks, cylinder wall separation,signs of blowby(vertical lines)
##pistons:burn spots, missing chunks,dings on the top of the piston
##crank:rotate the crank to make sure its smooth,
##bearings: take oil pan off, wiggle each rod by hand to see if theres any play, black color rod ends means overheating.same for main bearings.
##oil pickup: look inside oil pickup orifice for metal shavings or clogged filter net
## oil pan" make sure its not dented or deformed any other way,make sure oil drain bolt hole is not stripped.
##rear main seal: check for signs of leaks.
##thermostat: check if its old and busted.
##harmonic ballancer(crank pulley) make sure no chunks are missing (it is not ballanced with chunks missing), make sure the rubber in center section is still intact and not falling out.
<<<4>>>that busted TRANNY
bring a magnetic pickup tool with you
##stripped transmission mount bolt holes VERY COMMON so make sure to check
## fluid leaks from case seal.
##signs of impact on the bottom, cracks in case
##take out the bottom drain plug and stick your pinky in it see what comes out lol (metal shavings,dirty fluid)
## stick the magnetic tool in it and wiggle and see if any more shavings or other metal chunks get picked up.
##phillips screwdriver in the shifter rod and shift through every gear and rotate to make sure it goes in every gear smooth
##check axle seals for damage
##check differential for excessive play while in gear
not a good expert about the innards if anyone wants to add i will paste it here for when case is off the tranny
<<<5>>> ECU
the ecu code list is available EVERYWHWERE so you can check what ecu fits your car
jdm ecu is square box and surface mount components and do not have barometric sensor/vtec pressure switch
##p30,p72,p73 ecus have knock sensor boards, p28,p06,p75 dont have knock sensor boards
##pop the cover off and smell it if it smells like burned electronics then closely inspect it
##look for blown out components(diodes resistors etc) look for dark(usually dark brown or black) spots on circuit board, or other discolored parts
##pop the back cover and check the other side for any damage or brurnt traces or signs of soldering etc
## check to make sure the right circuit board is matching the case(board code is on top right part of the ecu)
##best way to test is to bring a car that uses same ecu and plug it in and go for a short test drive
##chipped ecu. crome(xenocron or moates) neptune(moates demon board) hondata... go to their webpage and find the RTP that you are buying to make sure you know how it looks before going to check out the ecu because some people say its chipped for neptune or hondata. meaning theres a socket installed but no RTP board... or a chip burned in neptune is not same as actual RTP board
<<<6>>> engine harness
p28 SOHC vtec harness(shorter than DOHC harness and O2 sensor is on the front of the engine)
p30 DOHC vtec harness(knock sensor plug and O2 sensor behind the engine
p72 DOHC vtec harness(knock sensor plug and IAB, O2 sensor on the back
p75 DOHC nonvtec harness(no vtec solenoid/vtec pressure switch no knock sensor)
AUTO harness is same as manual and auto tranny solenoid plug can be plugged in directly into reverse switch on manual tranny(someone can confirm that is it so for ALL b series harnesses?)
##always go through the whole harness DONT JUST SKIMP OVER IT AND CALL IT GOOD.
##start at the shock tower plug and finish at the other shock tower plug
## check for cut and spliced wires, butt connectors, squished parts of the harness, burned or melted wires,BENT pins in the plug
##usual suspects for cutting injectors, oil pressure switch,speed sensor vtec solenoid and pressure switch and dizzy plugs
##if they are cut make sure they are soldered properly and insulated with either heatshrink or good amount of electrical tape (no duck tape or office tape)
##D15z1 harness does NOT plug in a civic vtec without modification.
<<<7>>> brakes
##rear honda calipers seize very often(caliper sliding pins get dry/corroded/overheat) and get stuck in one position making uneven wear for the pads
3 of my hondas had them stuck. so its very common and alot of people dont even notice that.
##theres also many brake conversion articles to go check for proper parts
##press on the piston to see what kind of fluid comes out of the fitting (good clean or black and rusty) that will tell you the condition.
## is the caliper itsself extremely rusty? it is not that easy to clean i tried already even with a wire brush
## calipers have anti corrosion coating on them from factory( the yellowish golden color ) once that is gone it will rust very quickly
##i would not advise buying a used brake master cylinder because you cant tell if it leaks or not. new ones are not that expensive
##always add the cost of brake rotors and pads when comparing the prices on craigslist.
<<<8>>>
complete engine is a bit harder to inspect since you cant really see inside the cylinder
if you have a camera inspection tool( costco has one for 130? that fits inside spark plug opening) bring it with you and bright LED flash light
bring an oil pressure tool, compression tester and the battery if transmission is attached with starter
## when engine has the transmission and starter you can crank it with a 12 volt battery by directly powering the starter.
## WARNING!!! MAKE SURE SOMEONE IS HOLDING THE ENGINE FROM TIPPING OVER.
## hook up the oil gauge to the oil and crank to see if it builds up oil pressure
## do same thing to check compression
##read sparkplugs while you have them out also
## take the valve cover off and peek around
## pull the dipstick out to check the oil condition
##take distributor cap off and look for corrosion and oil inside dizzy
##under valve cover, dark brown and very dark brown color means it wasnt maintained very well
##ideal color should be light or darker golden color, black with lots of goop is bad
## rotate the crank with spark plugs in you will feel pressure build up in cylinder and then hissing. and you will know if one of the cylinders has no compression because it will not build pressure if theres no way to check with starter and the battery.
thats it for now. to be continued
Last edited by raverx3m; 08-03-2013 at 04:41 PM.
12-29-2012, 11:33 PM
#2
Re: check list for buying used parts(b series)
pictures and stuff reserved
buying a car.
this is more for people that have a general idea about cars a checklist so you dont skip any parts
1 general.
tools: flashlight, multimeter, screw drivers, 8,10,12,14, spark plug socket and wrench, obd2 scanner, jumper wire for diagnostic mode in obd1 car.
extra fuses, and gauge cluster bulbs to check for hidden chk engine light
DONT TRUST THE SELLER!!! UNLESS EVERYTHING HE SAYS CHECKS OUT.if you find one suspicious thing that he lied about then chances are theres more.
write down all issues that you found. and add up how much it will cost to fix them. to give you an idea about the real cost of the car you about to buy
and compare it to similar cars that you found for sale
ask what type of maintenance been done and how long ago( try to get receipts)
try to meet the seller at his house and be there for the cold start. a cold start usually reveals few problems.
2 engine bay
check vin tags on the dash,door jamb,firewall,transmission. and VERIFY ON TITLE/REGISTRATION and check vins on all the body panels for newer cars
check head/block.transmission stamps to make sure the engine is original or been replaced with wrong year parts
clean engine bay- check for fresh leaks(around headgasket,oil pan gasket behind header,around timing belt area)
dirty engine bay- check for freshly cleaned areas. means they were worked on or cleaned to cover up leaks etc.
check spark plugs spark plug wires normal around 6-10Kohm max: 25Kohm at 68degrees
distributor cap and rotor check for wear, dust, rust and oil residue
measure the coil - between top and bottom terminals on the right : 0.63-.077 ohm / between left and right bottom terminal 12.8-19.2 Kohm
check oil level and color, check for blowby in dipstick
check coolant level and contamination( grey goop on radiator cap means oil in coolant)
check for crusty and bulging coolant hoses
check for pressure in upper radiator hose when cold start.= thermostat stuck open someone confirm upper or lower
check if temperature falls to 1/4 or below = bad thermostat or takes too long to warm up
checkair filter
check ac/PS/alt belts for crust or wear
smell around( coolant smell, burning oil smell, burning plastic/rubber smell) if it smells like dry and dust usually means no leaks
check under the car for puddles or oil/coolant spots.
check radiator for cracks or leaks top to bottom.
check engine mounts for wear/damage
check sensor connectors for crust and damage and if they are all plugged in
make sure the radiator fan turns on once car reaches operatint temperature after idling for few minutes
3 electrical
check for burned/melted wires and connectors
check for spliced/cut wires in wiring harness.
check for cut/spliced wires around ecu plugs in kick panel. or signs of t taps
check all grounds make sure they are connected
check exterior lights
check interior lights
check fuses and replace blown fuses to see if they blow out again revealing electrical short
check gauge cluster lights such as SRS ABS maint and CHK engine lights.
look under dash for spaghetti wiring or any other fucked up wiring or unknown wires that the owner didnt mention
check dome light and door/trunk triggers
check for correct ecu
jump the blue 2 pin connector above ecu to check for codes
4 body panels
5 suspension
6 interior
7 test drive
transmission
buying a car.
this is more for people that have a general idea about cars a checklist so you dont skip any parts
1 general.
tools: flashlight, multimeter, screw drivers, 8,10,12,14, spark plug socket and wrench, obd2 scanner, jumper wire for diagnostic mode in obd1 car.
extra fuses, and gauge cluster bulbs to check for hidden chk engine light
DONT TRUST THE SELLER!!! UNLESS EVERYTHING HE SAYS CHECKS OUT.if you find one suspicious thing that he lied about then chances are theres more.
write down all issues that you found. and add up how much it will cost to fix them. to give you an idea about the real cost of the car you about to buy
and compare it to similar cars that you found for sale
ask what type of maintenance been done and how long ago( try to get receipts)
try to meet the seller at his house and be there for the cold start. a cold start usually reveals few problems.
2 engine bay
check vin tags on the dash,door jamb,firewall,transmission. and VERIFY ON TITLE/REGISTRATION and check vins on all the body panels for newer cars
check head/block.transmission stamps to make sure the engine is original or been replaced with wrong year parts
clean engine bay- check for fresh leaks(around headgasket,oil pan gasket behind header,around timing belt area)
dirty engine bay- check for freshly cleaned areas. means they were worked on or cleaned to cover up leaks etc.
check spark plugs spark plug wires normal around 6-10Kohm max: 25Kohm at 68degrees
distributor cap and rotor check for wear, dust, rust and oil residue
measure the coil - between top and bottom terminals on the right : 0.63-.077 ohm / between left and right bottom terminal 12.8-19.2 Kohm
check oil level and color, check for blowby in dipstick
check coolant level and contamination( grey goop on radiator cap means oil in coolant)
check for crusty and bulging coolant hoses
check for pressure in upper radiator hose when cold start.= thermostat stuck open someone confirm upper or lower
check if temperature falls to 1/4 or below = bad thermostat or takes too long to warm up
checkair filter
check ac/PS/alt belts for crust or wear
smell around( coolant smell, burning oil smell, burning plastic/rubber smell) if it smells like dry and dust usually means no leaks
check under the car for puddles or oil/coolant spots.
check radiator for cracks or leaks top to bottom.
check engine mounts for wear/damage
check sensor connectors for crust and damage and if they are all plugged in
make sure the radiator fan turns on once car reaches operatint temperature after idling for few minutes
3 electrical
check for burned/melted wires and connectors
check for spliced/cut wires in wiring harness.
check for cut/spliced wires around ecu plugs in kick panel. or signs of t taps
check all grounds make sure they are connected
check exterior lights
check interior lights
check fuses and replace blown fuses to see if they blow out again revealing electrical short
check gauge cluster lights such as SRS ABS maint and CHK engine lights.
look under dash for spaghetti wiring or any other fucked up wiring or unknown wires that the owner didnt mention
check dome light and door/trunk triggers
check for correct ecu
jump the blue 2 pin connector above ecu to check for codes
4 body panels
5 suspension
6 interior
7 test drive
transmission
Last edited by raverx3m; 11-17-2013 at 07:28 PM.
09-05-2013, 06:45 AM
#7
Re: check list for buying used parts(b series)
anyone can do a writeup on what kinds of damage is fixable and what is junk?
like for example:
cylinder wall rust
crank journal rust
spun bearings
the bearing seat scuffed after spun bearing
scuffs on the bearing seat
scratches in the cylinder wall
scratches or other damage on rods/pistons
like for example:
cylinder wall rust
crank journal rust
spun bearings
the bearing seat scuffed after spun bearing
scuffs on the bearing seat
scratches in the cylinder wall
scratches or other damage on rods/pistons
Trending Topics
03-12-2015, 09:37 AM
#9
Re: check list for buying used parts(b series)
anyone can help me make this into an app so I can have it with me at all times
id like to make this a free app so we can avoid being scammed almost every craigslist deal ive been through was some kind of scam people are desperate for cash now and sell anything they can. then nowhere to be found..
or if someone wants to add a checklist for different type of engines or other Honda specific things to look for
why?
because you all are bitching about shitty Honda community and this is a good way to weed out the **** boys that are always on craigslist selling busted ****.
id like to make this a free app so we can avoid being scammed almost every craigslist deal ive been through was some kind of scam people are desperate for cash now and sell anything they can. then nowhere to be found..
or if someone wants to add a checklist for different type of engines or other Honda specific things to look for
why?
because you all are bitching about shitty Honda community and this is a good way to weed out the **** boys that are always on craigslist selling busted ****.
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