Is it Possible to bypass the Crank-Position-Sensor w/ the Crank-Fluctuation-Sensor?
#52
Honda-Tech Member
Re: (richboi)
Why are you taking the pins out of any slot? The ECU connectors should already have existing wires for the CKF. Use a Scotch-Lock (which is what Katman is probably referring to) or something like that for a quick connection.
You're not trying to move the actual wires from the CKP into the CKF....you just want to wire them together so the CKP signal coming from the distributor also does into the CKF pins at the ECU.
You're not trying to move the actual wires from the CKP into the CKF....you just want to wire them together so the CKP signal coming from the distributor also does into the CKF pins at the ECU.
#53
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Re: (EE_Chris)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EE_Chris »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Of connecting one wire to another...?? What exactly is confusing?</TD></TR></TABLE>
i just got a bit confused.
i just got a bit confused.
#56
Re: (Katman)
this is a good idea, so if i run a z6 block and oil pump in my 96, i hack these wires, stash the sensor somewhere and it's like it never existed. what exactly should i do with the sensor once the ecu doesn't care?
is this sensor actually useful? by the time the light comes on, would it be way too late, or would it not be running right or at all. just wondering if there's any bad side effects to removing this, i.e. light comes on, shut the car off and it saves the day.
and how can i get rid of that o2 sensor at the cat? there has to be a similar hack for that.
is this sensor actually useful? by the time the light comes on, would it be way too late, or would it not be running right or at all. just wondering if there's any bad side effects to removing this, i.e. light comes on, shut the car off and it saves the day.
and how can i get rid of that o2 sensor at the cat? there has to be a similar hack for that.
#57
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Re: (The Internet Tough Guy)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by The Internet Tough Guy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">this is a good idea, so if i run a z6 block and oil pump in my 96, i hack these wires, stash the sensor somewhere and it's like it never existed. what exactly should i do with the sensor once the ecu doesn't care?
There would be no sensor to stash only the plug to the sensor would be stashed or left hangin there. The sensor actually resides on the physical OBD2 oil pump. The Z6 oil pump doesn't have this sensor.
is this sensor actually useful? by the time the light comes on, would it be way too late, or would it not be running right or at all. just wondering if there's any bad side effects to removing this, i.e. light comes on, shut the car off and it saves the day.
yes its useful for US OBD2 ecu's. It detects misfire. The check light will come on right away and the car will idle & run like **** when not wired in and using a US OBD2 ecu.
and how can i get rid of that o2 sensor at the cat? there has to be a similar hack for that.[
Either by converting to OBD1 or another way which EE_Chris knows about (hoping he'll chime in)
</TD></TR></TABLE>
There would be no sensor to stash only the plug to the sensor would be stashed or left hangin there. The sensor actually resides on the physical OBD2 oil pump. The Z6 oil pump doesn't have this sensor.
is this sensor actually useful? by the time the light comes on, would it be way too late, or would it not be running right or at all. just wondering if there's any bad side effects to removing this, i.e. light comes on, shut the car off and it saves the day.
yes its useful for US OBD2 ecu's. It detects misfire. The check light will come on right away and the car will idle & run like **** when not wired in and using a US OBD2 ecu.
and how can i get rid of that o2 sensor at the cat? there has to be a similar hack for that.[
Either by converting to OBD1 or another way which EE_Chris knows about (hoping he'll chime in)
</TD></TR></TABLE>
#59
Honda-Tech Member
Re: (The Internet Tough Guy)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by The Internet Tough Guy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">^ great
i'm putting a z6 block in, what am i supposed to do about it not having a knock sensor? can i trick the ecu for that too?</TD></TR></TABLE>
hmm..good question if you're using an OBD2 EX ecu...
i'm putting a z6 block in, what am i supposed to do about it not having a knock sensor? can i trick the ecu for that too?</TD></TR></TABLE>
hmm..good question if you're using an OBD2 EX ecu...
#61
Re: (Wazup)
it's already wired up, but the z6 doesn't have a spot for it and i broke it in half. i can buy a new one and tap a hole for it, but i'd rather just forget about it and tell the ecu it's there and ok.
any ideas? i'm guessing it would send a certain voltage back when normal, there should be a way to get that voltage to that pin through some other means.
any ideas? i'm guessing it would send a certain voltage back when normal, there should be a way to get that voltage to that pin through some other means.
#62
Re: (The Internet Tough Guy)
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1181854
that's how you mimic the voltage from the knock sensor. so if i do that, and bypass the ckf sensor, everything is ok
that's how you mimic the voltage from the knock sensor. so if i do that, and bypass the ckf sensor, everything is ok
#64
Re: (Wazup)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Wazup »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sweet, now just need the one for the secondary O2</TD></TR></TABLE>
i really don't see why you can't just splice the primary into the secondary, just like we spliced the cyp into the ckf. unless the primary & secondary give completely different voltages. but if it expects them to be the same then that should definatly work.
i really don't see why you can't just splice the primary into the secondary, just like we spliced the cyp into the ckf. unless the primary & secondary give completely different voltages. but if it expects them to be the same then that should definatly work.
#65
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Re: (The Internet Tough Guy)
Secondary O2 is a simple pass/fail test compared to the primary. If you leave it plugged in, but dangling in free air, the secondary O2 always reads leaner and the ECU thinks everything is peachy with no problems.
#67
Honda-Tech Member
Re: (The Internet Tough Guy)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by The Internet Tough Guy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">just confirming that this actually does work. i'm running obd2 with no ckf sensor and that thing from radio shack is doing a great job as my knock sensor </TD></TR></TABLE>
excellent...
I'll have the CKF article ready this weekend.....lagged on getting it done cuz i didn't have access to any 96-01 civic/integra's for the ecu plug pics....got em now!
excellent...
I'll have the CKF article ready this weekend.....lagged on getting it done cuz i didn't have access to any 96-01 civic/integra's for the ecu plug pics....got em now!
#68
Re: (Katman)
i didn't mess with the ecu
i cut the plug off the ckf sensor and spliced those wires to the ones coming right out of the dizzy plug under the hood. i guess it would be better to do it at the ecu, but i was all dirty and i HATE working with interior plastic stuff.
i cut the plug off the ckf sensor and spliced those wires to the ones coming right out of the dizzy plug under the hood. i guess it would be better to do it at the ecu, but i was all dirty and i HATE working with interior plastic stuff.
#69
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Re: (Katman)
Great, now your job is to figure out the same trick for the P5M OBD2 Prelude ECU
I have an H22A JDM engine in my 1998 Prelude, and in order to pass PA emissions, I need to have an OBD2 ECU that speaks with the inspection station's test computer. The USDM H22A4 does not have a CKF sensor, so I don't think a simple slicing of a couple of wires would work here. It has the CKP and TDC sensors mounted behind the crank pulley, and the CYP (cylinder position sensor) mounted in the distributor. The JDM H22A has all three of these sensors in the distributer, and so as it stands right now, I have a check engine light on that says the car is misfiring (even though it's not). The "expected" timing coming from the CKP sensor is not what the ECU expects, so it thinks the engine misfired.
I don't feel like spending another $350 on the USDM parts, by the way
I have an H22A JDM engine in my 1998 Prelude, and in order to pass PA emissions, I need to have an OBD2 ECU that speaks with the inspection station's test computer. The USDM H22A4 does not have a CKF sensor, so I don't think a simple slicing of a couple of wires would work here. It has the CKP and TDC sensors mounted behind the crank pulley, and the CYP (cylinder position sensor) mounted in the distributor. The JDM H22A has all three of these sensors in the distributer, and so as it stands right now, I have a check engine light on that says the car is misfiring (even though it's not). The "expected" timing coming from the CKP sensor is not what the ECU expects, so it thinks the engine misfired.
I don't feel like spending another $350 on the USDM parts, by the way
#71
Honda-Tech Member
Re: (fuhsm1)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fuhsm1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Great, now your job is to figure out the same trick for the P5M OBD2 Prelude ECU
I have an H22A JDM engine in my 1998 Prelude, and in order to pass PA emissions, I need to have an OBD2 ECU that speaks with the inspection station's test computer. The USDM H22A4 does not have a CKF sensor, so I don't think a simple slicing of a couple of wires would work here. It has the CKP and TDC sensors mounted behind the crank pulley, and the CYP (cylinder position sensor) mounted in the distributor. The JDM H22A has all three of these sensors in the distributer, and so as it stands right now, I have a check engine light on that says the car is misfiring (even though it's not). The "expected" timing coming from the CKP sensor is not what the ECU expects, so it thinks the engine misfired.
I don't feel like spending another $350 on the USDM parts, by the way </TD></TR></TABLE>
How about you try it for us?
I don't have access to any OBD2 preludes.
Have you tried this CKF trick on your car at all? if not, why not try it and reset the ecu at the same time and report back
I have an H22A JDM engine in my 1998 Prelude, and in order to pass PA emissions, I need to have an OBD2 ECU that speaks with the inspection station's test computer. The USDM H22A4 does not have a CKF sensor, so I don't think a simple slicing of a couple of wires would work here. It has the CKP and TDC sensors mounted behind the crank pulley, and the CYP (cylinder position sensor) mounted in the distributor. The JDM H22A has all three of these sensors in the distributer, and so as it stands right now, I have a check engine light on that says the car is misfiring (even though it's not). The "expected" timing coming from the CKP sensor is not what the ECU expects, so it thinks the engine misfired.
I don't feel like spending another $350 on the USDM parts, by the way </TD></TR></TABLE>
How about you try it for us?
I don't have access to any OBD2 preludes.
Have you tried this CKF trick on your car at all? if not, why not try it and reset the ecu at the same time and report back
#72
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Re: (Katman)
Problem is, the Prelude does not use a CKF, no matter the year or country. It only uses the CKP, CYP, and TDC sensors. I'm under the assumption that the ECU expects each pulse from the CKP to come within a certain milisecond timeframe from when it tells each spark to fire.
I'm working through the solution, if there is one, and I can report back. Turning the distributor in relation to the cam does not solve the problem. This is probably because each of the three sensors are all reading from the same axis on the H22A, and so the ECU does not see the difference.
If I rotate the CKP by itself slightly or the gear that it reads from, maybe I'd get somewhere. Of course, that means hacking into the distributor, and I'm not so confident about doing that. My engine may no longer run after the fact
I'm working through the solution, if there is one, and I can report back. Turning the distributor in relation to the cam does not solve the problem. This is probably because each of the three sensors are all reading from the same axis on the H22A, and so the ECU does not see the difference.
If I rotate the CKP by itself slightly or the gear that it reads from, maybe I'd get somewhere. Of course, that means hacking into the distributor, and I'm not so confident about doing that. My engine may no longer run after the fact
#73
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Re: (fuhsm1)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fuhsm1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Problem is, the Prelude does not use a CKF, no matter the year or country. It only uses the CKP, CYP, and TDC sensors. </TD></TR></TABLE>
You said A4, so OBD2 car, yes? The CKP is mounted in your oil pump, and has something other than a 12 tooth reluctor. This is why OBD1 conversions on those cars require OBD1 distributor with internal CKP and rerouting wires to suit.
You said A4, so OBD2 car, yes? The CKP is mounted in your oil pump, and has something other than a 12 tooth reluctor. This is why OBD1 conversions on those cars require OBD1 distributor with internal CKP and rerouting wires to suit.
#74
Honda-Tech Member
Re: (J. Davis)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by J. Davis »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
You said A4, so OBD2 car, yes? The CKP is mounted in your oil pump, and has something other than a 12 tooth reluctor. This is why OBD1 conversions on those cars require OBD1 distributor with internal CKP and rerouting wires to suit. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I just looked up 97+ OBD2 ecu pinouts and was going to mention that he try and quick splice these pins:
C2 (CKPP) to C12 (CKPM)
and
C4 (CYPP) to C14 (CYPM)
....but after reading this I don't think this suggestion would worky...
You said A4, so OBD2 car, yes? The CKP is mounted in your oil pump, and has something other than a 12 tooth reluctor. This is why OBD1 conversions on those cars require OBD1 distributor with internal CKP and rerouting wires to suit. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I just looked up 97+ OBD2 ecu pinouts and was going to mention that he try and quick splice these pins:
C2 (CKPP) to C12 (CKPM)
and
C4 (CYPP) to C14 (CYPM)
....but after reading this I don't think this suggestion would worky...
#75
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Re: (Katman)
Yeah, they are wierd cars. I went through this on Turbo Sam's old car, when it was sold to Bigjussin, and I had to make it run an OBD1 ECU.
IIRC, 96 year model still has 24 tooth CKP in distributor, and converting later Preludes to OBD1 (96?) style distributor that need to pass OBD2 emissions can be accomplished with 96 P13 ECU. It's a little more complex than that, as OBD2 Preludes are external coil and OBD1 are internal coil, and you have to cut into the engine harness and retape if you don't want to have it look like a hack job.
IIRC, 96 year model still has 24 tooth CKP in distributor, and converting later Preludes to OBD1 (96?) style distributor that need to pass OBD2 emissions can be accomplished with 96 P13 ECU. It's a little more complex than that, as OBD2 Preludes are external coil and OBD1 are internal coil, and you have to cut into the engine harness and retape if you don't want to have it look like a hack job.