Cole D

I bought a jdm integra with a blown engine I took the ecu out to get chipped and found this please tell me if this can be fixed or is the ecu toast I included 2 pics of the burnt spot 1 of each side the car will run with this ecu and does not throw check engine lights

Thanks
Cole D

mmuller

i cant really see the damage good, but usually you can just fix that by running a wire from point to point

TeamCracka

It shouldnt be an issue since the car isnt throwing any CEL's. If you want you can buy a solution you spray on PCB's that is made to clean off anything on them (for good solder connections). This'll take away the burn mark more than likely and you can see if the wire traces are actually damaged.

If its burnt (cant really see) where theres a surface mounted component on the other side, you could test it with a DMM or just go to RadioShack or Digikey.com and buy a new one of whatevers fried............ but then again theres no use fuckn with it if it aint broke and there's no CEL's

HRTuning

You burnt up Q31 huh? Did you plug the IAT sensor into the purge canister output?

You should be able to replace it, it won't really hurt not having it... I've seen people run without the PCS hooked up... And it doesn't throw a code...

Good luck...

Cole D

I didn't do that I bought the car and pulled the ecu the previous owner did a hack job on the wiring where the ecu hooks up some of the wires were cut then crimped back with live wire exposed, one of those wires did the actual damage. so you think I can take it to radio shack and get the piece I need..... cool

Thanks
Cole D

Jim Truett

If the person who is chipping it can solder worth a ****, it will be an easy fix for them.

Cole D

I took the ecu to the radio shack they said I would need the number off that transistor to order a new one could you guys provide with that number mine is burnt off so i can't see the writing.

Thanks Cole D


Modified by Cole D at 5:13 PM 10/9/2004

Audi RS4

holy crap, wtf did you do?

TurboBumblBee

if it aint broke.. why fix it??

Jim Truett

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Cole D &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I took the ecu to the radio shack they said I would need the number off that transistor to order a new one could you guys provide with that number my is burnt off so i can't see the writing.

Thanks Cole D </TD></TR></TABLE>

Good luck. It's a D1780 and was obsoleted many moons ago. I haven't found a good cross for it, but I might have one on an ECU I rob for parts.

PHiZ

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HRTuning &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You burnt up Q31 huh? Did you plug the IAT sensor into the purge canister output? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Proof, that it is well known among KNOWLEDGABLE TUNERS that this is the cause of Q31 going bad.

Here is something a customer sent back to me:

http://nondata.com/smoked_p28/smoked_p28.html

-PHiZ

Katman

ah yeah....the elusive Q31 issue..

Cole D

Did you get it fixed ???

Cole D

Can anyone on this board fix this thing ?????

Jim Truett

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Cole D &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Can anyone on this board fix this thing ?????</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes, it's easy, and would only take a few minutes. There is still a question about the wiring, so I would not be inclined to guarantee it.

PHiZ

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jim Truett &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yes, it's easy, and would only take a few minutes. There is still a question about the wiring, so I would not be inclined to guarantee it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

The one I worked on, it depended on how badly the board was hurt, in my case there was a 3/8in whole burned in the PCB...

-PHiZ

BigMoose

OK, I felt like poking around for you...

The full part number appears to be 2SD1780 which is a 2 Amp, 50 V, NPN, E-C-B (1-2-3) pins , Hfe 800 to 3200.

The data sheet is at http://www.pgmfi.org/twiki/pub...0.pdf They have a little write up on the replacement, but I could not find what "he" said he would replace it with.

Note that with it (2SD1780) face up the pins are Emitter Collector Base

If I needed to make a quick repair of this, I would replace it with a TIP122 transistor Data sheet at http://www.onsemi.com/pub/Collateral/TIP120-D.PDF AND a 60 volt 500mW zener between the base and collector. I would use a 1N5264. These parts are easy to find at digikey. Note that the TIP122 has the leads reversed face up as Base Collector Emitter. So you have to take this into account and haywire the zener diode. The cathode of the zener (with the band) should go to the collector of the TIP122, the anode of the zener should go to the base of the TIP122.

Note I have not done this repair. Use it at your own risk. Here are the data sheets so make your own conclusions... I am not going to give step by step instructions on how to do this... I will leave that to others. But this should provide the engineering for a skilled technician to make the repair.

Edit...I was not in the best humor yesterday... I am one of those folks that are "at risk" so I get the "benefit" of getting the flu shot last week... It gave me the flu... ya' gotta laugh...

Thought about it overnight and think the TIP122 with 100 V rating has a bit more margin against inductive flyback than the TIP120 at 60V. Seeing we clamped it near 60 V with our Zener, we should spec a bit more margin in the silicon... The TIP122 is only pennies more anyway.

Now to give a few tips on repair of PCBs... We "haywire" them all the time when we blow traces. You basically use a suitable gage wire from solder point to solder point. That would be from where a component goes thru the board and there is no green solder mask on the traces. Just use a #18 or #20 wire and solder it with rosin core soler where you can. I would solder the zener on the back side of the transistor leads up above the circuit board. If the board has gotten "ratty" from all the heat and such it is A-OK to reinforce the area and stake down the haywires with a little 5 minute epoxy. We use some industrial stuff that comes in little premeasured packages, but I am sure some 5 minute devcon or JB weld. Note to "reverse" the insertion of the transistor due to the differences in the original ECB arrangement and the replacement TIP122 BCE at least they are mirror images and not randomly scrambled. Good luck.





Modified by BigMoose at 3:37 PM 10/12/2004

Cole D

Thanks Big Moose

PHiZ

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Cole D &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thanks Big Moose </TD></TR></TABLE>

Big moose, you going to add that info to the wiki?

-PHiZ

BigMoose

Phiz believe it or not, I am not Wiki literate... I've been trying to learn some more of this stuff... need to hire another co-op for the summer They know all the latest!

If you can do it, please feel free to. I noticed there was a knowledge base here for honda tech, that might be a good thing to add there too.

I am sure open to pointers on how to do it...

Cole D

^^