Battery Light Lead To Blowing My ECU?
07-21-2015, 06:54 AM
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Battery Light Lead To Blowing My ECU?
So I bought a2002 Honda civic si shell for 80$ and a donor car for 300 and swapped the motorover. And I am having very terrible luck and I’m stuck as to what I should donext. I’m new to Honda and came from a VW so I’m learning all the tricks tothese cars. I plugged in a scanner and the only codes I had were Drivers seatbelt buckle sensor was tripping the SRS light and there was a code P0141 o2heater sensor bank 2. The car came with aftermarket headers and a cat under thecar unlike my parts car with the cat built in the header. I haven’t had time tolook but when I pulled the engine harness I never had a plug into the o2 sensorin the cat so it may be hard wired up into the car? Anyway here is a list ofproblems/solutions I’ve done
1)Put motor in and grounded alternator along the way
2)Replaced main fuse (80amp) and put a new alternator in
3)All three ground in the engine bay were sanded and bolted tight to ensure a properconnectiong
4)Finally got the car running and the battery light was instantly on but the alternatorwas charging like a new one should and it was a new battery holding its chargeas it should
5)So I drove it as I couldn’t see a problem and eventually the temp guage stoppedworking and I put a thermostat and all coolant related sensors in and nothinghappened and I had to drive it o I swapped the whole engine harness toeliminate a short which didn’t solve it
6)Drove the car as I had to and after a long drive of it driving “cold” the enginelight cut in and out and the car coughed and the temperature sensor came rightup to normal (fixed itself :p)
7)The battery was dead one day when I went to start it so I jumped it and got thebattery examined. Turned out the battery was A1
8)Put the fully charged battery in and started driving. On the highway the carcoughed a few times and the main relay behind the glove box clicked, Tach andtemp gauge died and went into limp mode (Burning a ton of fuel and not revvingpassed I’d say 3000 rpm)
9)Got home and OBDII scanner wouldn’t connect so I know the ecu is fried
I’m working on getting an ECU and havea guy ready to program the key but I need to get the battery light sorted outso I don’t blow the new computer. Any input would be greatly appreciated!
1)Put motor in and grounded alternator along the way
2)Replaced main fuse (80amp) and put a new alternator in
3)All three ground in the engine bay were sanded and bolted tight to ensure a properconnectiong
4)Finally got the car running and the battery light was instantly on but the alternatorwas charging like a new one should and it was a new battery holding its chargeas it should
5)So I drove it as I couldn’t see a problem and eventually the temp guage stoppedworking and I put a thermostat and all coolant related sensors in and nothinghappened and I had to drive it o I swapped the whole engine harness toeliminate a short which didn’t solve it
6)Drove the car as I had to and after a long drive of it driving “cold” the enginelight cut in and out and the car coughed and the temperature sensor came rightup to normal (fixed itself :p)
7)The battery was dead one day when I went to start it so I jumped it and got thebattery examined. Turned out the battery was A1
8)Put the fully charged battery in and started driving. On the highway the carcoughed a few times and the main relay behind the glove box clicked, Tach andtemp gauge died and went into limp mode (Burning a ton of fuel and not revvingpassed I’d say 3000 rpm)
9)Got home and OBDII scanner wouldn’t connect so I know the ecu is fried
I’m working on getting an ECU and havea guy ready to program the key but I need to get the battery light sorted outso I don’t blow the new computer. Any input would be greatly appreciated!
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