Cletus2k

I have a 92 Accord EX with power windows. I just replaced the window regulators in the drivers door, and the two rear windows. (The rear windows had been gone for some time but just dealt with the whistling until the drivers side broke as well and did them all in one day).

The replaced window regulator in the drivers door worked great for about a week, then the other night I went to put the window down and it wouldn't go at all. I took the door apart didn't see anything wrong. I then checked how much juice was going to the new regulator and I only got .4 or so volts at most when the window switch was depressed. I am thinking it's a relay, but none of the posts I have found on the net or the Haynes manual I have gives me any indication where the power window relay would be so I can test it or replace it. Is it in the switch housing, or under the dash?

The other 3 windows still operate just fine, and I have checked all fuses. I am no sure what other information I can provide that may be helpful in troubleshooting this, so please let me know if you need any additional information.

The regulators I got were rather inexpensive (40 bucks a pop) so at first I thought that I had just gotten cheap regulators, but given only .4 volts is going to the motor I suspect that is not the case.

One other peculiar thing is the rear windows now operate in reverse (i.e. up on the switch makes the window go down, and down on the switch makes the window go up). I figure this is just the regulators had the 2 power leads swapped in the factory and really don't care if they are backwards. I don't care about fixing this, but this could be pertinent in some way as well.

Thanks so much.

fcm

It is not the relay, it is the same relay for all windows, it supplies power to the window fuses.

My guess is it is a problem with the switch itself, [dirty contacts].

Honda/Acura use a polarity reversing, ground at rest, power window system.

Meter both the leads going to window motor without moving switch, both leads should test as grounds, [full continuity to ground] when you rock the switch for up or down one of the leads will stay as a ground and the other will go to 12V+, flip the switch the other way and the ground and power will reverse themselves. 94

Cletus2k

Which of the wires should I expect to see 12v across?

I have red-yellow / red-blue / blue / black. The black is ground for sure, but which of the 3 remaining should I see 12 volts across? Earlier I said I saw .4 volts on some of the leads when I flipped the switch, but I need to re-test and verify that. I wasn't really sure what I should see other than 12 volts which I didn't see anywhere which made me wonder if the relay had been shot.

fcm

Sorry, I do not have wire colors for a 92 Accord , although it sounds like they may be the same as the G2 Integras.

Red/blue and red/yellow are the motor leads, both should test as grounds when switch is "at rest", the red/blue should test as 12V+ when switch is pressed for up and the red/yellow will stay as a ground, for down the red/yellow will test as 12V+ and the red/blue will stay as a ground.

The white/yellow, [on Integra] is the 12V+ power supply to drivers window switch, it should test as 12V+ anytime the ign. switch is on.

At the drivers door window switches there should be four 12V+ leads...
White/yellow - drivers window.
Blue/black - front pass. window.
Yellow/black - right rear window.
Green/black - left rear window.
All should show 12V+ when ign. switch is on.

When testing the switch always test both leads going to motor to make sure one has 12V+ and the other has a ground, the switch supplies both the power and the ground. 94

Cletus2k

Well I got it fixed. I didn't realize the window motor fuses were under the hood.. I was seeing nothing on the 1 constant 12v lead for the drivers window.. Looked at the diagram in my haynes book (colors lined up with what you said) and realized there was a fuse under the hood.. Thanks for all your help.. Glad it was so simple..

Cletus2k

OK so the new regulator has popped the 20amp fuse twice now.. Is this common that maybe the replacement regulators motors pull a bit more juice and are popping the fuse? I am tempted to just try putting a 25amp in there instead of the 20 that has blown twice and see if that works.. Any thoughts?