miro_gt

the alignment shop screw it two times.

- first time: car pulls to the rignt, steering wheel is moved a good 1 inch from the straight line, toe is perfect, camber is at the negative limit (-1.0 deg; limit is [-1.0 .. 1.0]).

- second time: car pulls again to the right, steering wheel fixed, toe not perfect, camber still negative but better (-0.6 deg) because I went and fixed it myself while at the shop

and just to clarify, 2 days ago car was fine, and both front tires are equaly/normaly worn out. I went for alignment due to new front lower control arm bushings, which caused me to adjust camber, which messed up the toe.

but here, left toe is 0.04 deg, right toe is -0.01 deg (from second time at the shop). Car pulls to the right a bit, not much but enough to make me feel not good. So I have toe-in on the front left tire, and toe out on the front right tire, thus causing the car to pull to the right a little.

Q: how much of a degree will one full turn of the adjustment nut change the toe ?

I do understand that this is highly specific question, but it will help me fix my alignment.

95 Civic EX coupe; Eibach Sportline, Kony yellows, Skunk2 Pro camber kit on front.

miro_gt

omg I fixed it :D :D :D

I'm the untimate alignment dude since today, lmao

the stuff took about 15 try outs until I get it all good. Initially I started with the thought that I'd do 1/4 turn on the right wheel outwards since it was having toe out (-0.01 deg) and a full turn on the left wheel inwards since it was having toe in (0.04 deg). So if a 1/4 turn would equal 0.01 deg then it would've all worked out from the first time, though that was too much, so just for the record, 1/4 turn moves much more than 0.01 deg, lol.

from time to time I would get the car not to pull either left or right, but my steering wheel would not be straight, then I would get it straight and the car not to pull left or right, but one of the turns would go easier than the other, meaning that the toe on both tires would compensate each other when going straight but is not around the 0 for both tires (like -0.05 and +0.05 deg).

I took some theories into account, such as the one for the outside wheel in a turn playing bigger role than the inside one, thus I could figure out which toe to adjust more and which one less after a bunch or turns left and right, observing how much the car turns at the same time.

At some time in the middle I figured out that the road that I used had slight slope towards the side, .. duhhh .. , as most roads are built like that of course for the rain water to go away ...

And speaking of the rain - surely it came, so I had to do the last 4 adjustment while wet already (meaning my as_s). Other adjustments I did on some speed bump that I found at some parking lot, as well as one at the county/police parking lot, lol.

so to sum it up, I did the unpossible (as one of my friends used to say) :D

cheers

alphalanos

Its way easier and much more accurate to just set up a string jig thats parallel with the centerline of the car and measure off that. Set camber, then set toe.

http://www.c-speedracing.com/howto/a.../alignment.php