shock bolts frozen
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shock bolts frozen
ok so here's my problem... i'm trying to remove my rear lower shock bolts to intsall new struts/coilovers. the front ones installed fine but my rear lower shock bolts are frozen in place. tried so hard that one of the bolt heads broke off. now the bolt is just stuck in there. havent tried the other side yet tho.. anybody gone through this? any ideas?
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Re: shock bolts frozen (EGhatch33)
For the ones that are not snapped, soak them in penetrating oil for a while (the longer, the better IMO). Then use heat (propane torch, or better yet oxy-acetylene) and heat up the bolt, getting it as hot as possible. This will help to break up the rust that caused the bolt to get seized up inside the bushing, which has a metal inner sleeve. Some say to use an impact gun, some say don't. I dunno, I used a 1' breaker bar and snapped two bolts, got the others out just fine.
As far as the snapped bolt, you can use a sawz-all to cut through either side of the bolt between the fork and bushing. Then again, I was replacing the LCA as well, so I just dropped out the shock + lca as one piece.
As far as the snapped bolt, you can use a sawz-all to cut through either side of the bolt between the fork and bushing. Then again, I was replacing the LCA as well, so I just dropped out the shock + lca as one piece.
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Re: shock bolts frozen (EGhatch33)
Depends on what you go with. OEM is probably the best idea, not sure how much that would cost though. Like $65? $70? Still the cheapest alternative, good enough for most. If your LCA bushings are worn out, now would be a great time to change them.
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Re: shock bolts frozen (EGhatch33)
OEM? From the local Honda dealership.
Its not a bad idea to get new bolts, although if your old ones are in good condition, you can re-use them. Just be sure to use anti-seize during the installation of the new parts, to prevent seizing in the future.
Its not a bad idea to get new bolts, although if your old ones are in good condition, you can re-use them. Just be sure to use anti-seize during the installation of the new parts, to prevent seizing in the future.
#7
Re: shock bolts frozen (EGhatch33)
the same thing happened to me. the local Acura dealer wanted 80some dollars each for the rear LCAs, so i just got a set of omnipower ones for $110. check out the sponsor section..you should find some good deals there.
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#8
there are omni LCA for $100 shipped and $114 shipped from two vendors in the marketplace.
Only other way is to drill the bolt out that is broken, so i'd say expletive that...order the omni LCA and be done with it. These things always seize, so omni also has the new bushings which should be an added bonus to your new set-up
Only other way is to drill the bolt out that is broken, so i'd say expletive that...order the omni LCA and be done with it. These things always seize, so omni also has the new bushings which should be an added bonus to your new set-up
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Re: (alwaysoverkill)
I assume its still in the car. Get some liquid wrench and try pounding it out. It took me a solid hour with it under the car still. torch is the next best bet and necessary.
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Re: (Finger Lickin' good)
ya... but w/ a torch wouldnt i wanna take off my gas tank? im thinkin i'll just replace the lca's... that omnipower kit comes w/ the bushings right?
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Re: (EGhatch33)
No, you won't be torching the gas tank so its fine. Most torches have a small enough flame that you can concentrate it on one area.
Depending on how far in the bolt snapped, you may still be able to get a good grip with a pair of vice grips.
Depending on how far in the bolt snapped, you may still be able to get a good grip with a pair of vice grips.
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Re: (EGhatch33)
Yeah I mean like if you stil have a bit of the bolt sticking out of the bushing, enough that you can grab onto with a vice grip, then you might have a chance of still getting it out without destroying the LCA. But this is if you want to save the LCA. I think it might be easier to buy a new pair. Because if you figure that a nice set of vice grips, a propane torch and propane tank will set you back about $50 or something, a new set of OEM LCA's will cure your headaches for just $20 more, with brand new bushings.
#14
if the bolt is fully in there and just the head broke...replace the entire LCA for the $100 shipped for Omni ones.
Only way your getting that bolt out is to drill or get through the bushing...either way, alot more work then need be.
My LCA bolts are seized and will forsure break if I try to get them out, so i'm just ordering Omni LCA for March when I always lower my car for the spring/summer/fall
Omni does come with the bushings, so for that $100 you are good to go and no more headaches with this damn bolt, hehe.
Only way your getting that bolt out is to drill or get through the bushing...either way, alot more work then need be.
My LCA bolts are seized and will forsure break if I try to get them out, so i'm just ordering Omni LCA for March when I always lower my car for the spring/summer/fall
Omni does come with the bushings, so for that $100 you are good to go and no more headaches with this damn bolt, hehe.
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Re: (EGhatch33)
i replaced my lca when I broke the bolt inside them. i went to a local junkyard and gets oem lcas for a whopping $40 for both....
checkout your junkyard or crairgslist.org
checkout your junkyard or crairgslist.org
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Re: (apm)
if the bolt holding the strut to the LCA broke just take a grinder and grind of the nut that is welded to the strut fork i had to do it today it was really easy. after you grind the nut just take a hammer and a punch and push the rest of the bolt through and your LCA will still be good. unless you just want to spend the money and wait for the new LCA
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Re: shock bolts frozen (SiRay13)
i know this is a total noob question, sorry, but where do you guys get the bolts to replace the ones you cut off, i looked for them at hondaautomotiveparts.com but there were only the bolts and not the nuts.
also, on the subframe, is there a threaded nut welded to it? cause i just keep tryin to get it out but im scared of like bendin the subframe or something
this seems like such a bigger headache then it should be...
also, on the subframe, is there a threaded nut welded to it? cause i just keep tryin to get it out but im scared of like bendin the subframe or something
this seems like such a bigger headache then it should be...
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Re: shock bolts frozen (delspool)
I usually get my replacements from the dealership. Despite what the punk behind the counter tells you, your Integra can and does use the same bolts as the Civic, and vice versa (I've been to 3 diff Honda dealerships where the parts dept. told me I need to go to Acura for the bolts).
From the factory, the trailing arm, shock fork, and subframe all have nuts tack-welded to them directly. The trailing arm and subframe ones are smooth on the outside though (not sure what they are called).
From the factory, the trailing arm, shock fork, and subframe all have nuts tack-welded to them directly. The trailing arm and subframe ones are smooth on the outside though (not sure what they are called).
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Re: shock bolts frozen (PIC Performance)
but then if i just hammer this **** out, then isnt that gonna get messed up, how do i fix that? sorry bout these dumb qs by the way abd thanks for your help
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Re: shock bolts frozen (delspool)
What're you hammering out? You snapped some bolts I'm guessing. You should follow the advice provided to the OP if so.
If you snapped a bolt at the trailing arm end (which is what I did), you can sawzall the two spaces between the bushing and the trailing arm to drop the LCA out, and then take out the two remaining bits by drilling them out (never tried this) or grabbing the exposed nubs with a pair of vice grips and slowly turn them out. Luckily for me, I never snapped the subframe bolt, because that looks like the biggest bitch to get out if you do.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">this seems like such a bigger headache then it should be... </TD></TR></TABLE>
Sometimes taking it to a shop is the best option. I let pride get the better of me, and paid for it big time with these headaches. Just understand that there is a chance that these things will happen whenever you work on your car, and see if you have the resources to handle it if they do.
If you snapped a bolt at the trailing arm end (which is what I did), you can sawzall the two spaces between the bushing and the trailing arm to drop the LCA out, and then take out the two remaining bits by drilling them out (never tried this) or grabbing the exposed nubs with a pair of vice grips and slowly turn them out. Luckily for me, I never snapped the subframe bolt, because that looks like the biggest bitch to get out if you do.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">this seems like such a bigger headache then it should be... </TD></TR></TABLE>
Sometimes taking it to a shop is the best option. I let pride get the better of me, and paid for it big time with these headaches. Just understand that there is a chance that these things will happen whenever you work on your car, and see if you have the resources to handle it if they do.
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Re: shock bolts frozen (PIC Performance)
i just grinded off the nut and got a new bolt and a nut and when i get a chance i will spot weld the new nut to the trailing arm. and i broke of the bolt at the front of the trailing arm too the one in the subframe and i had to use a cutoff wheel and make a small x and bent the tabs in and i could just get a finger in there to get it out and it worked perfect you cant even tell i made a little hole. i had to use a small magnet too. good luck
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