Geis

As you can see in the pics I gotta a little ahead of myself and oh so wrongly *assumed* that all the bolts WOULD ACTUALLY LOOSEN LOL
(really sorry for the sarcasm just kinda pissed...)
Anyways after making a stupid mistake the bolt that is partially out on the right was partially put back in an stripped the inside of the threads a bit, where the bust touches the chassis (and probably ***cking stripped it more putting it back on suspension intact)

Does anyone have suggestion for how to get that bolt on the left end of the LCA off? Really didn't think I would need the helms for this...

NVturbo

Did you even used PB Blaster to help loosen the bolts? From your pic, it's a no.

Fitz Williams

iTrader: (1)

I cut on off with a reciprocating saw using a hacksaw blade. Of course that ruins the shock, but I was replacing them and the bushing as well so it didn't matter.

OneBadTurboCRV

I am pretty positive the Helms manual doesn't tell you how to loosen a simple bolt. If you didn't break it yet then you didn't try hard enough. You need to soak it in some kind of penetrating oil and try again. If that doesn't work then use some heat. The car looks EXTREMELY clean under the body (at least from what I am used to) and I have a very hard time believing the bolt rusted to the bushing sleeve or something.

egsleepercivic

are you using an impact ? even the electric ones from places like Harbor Freight work well on these bolts in my experience.... also as stated before soak them with PB blaster or if you can find it Kroil

cafrog

Doesn't look like the hub is being supported. You should relieve weight/pressure off the hub end of the LCA so the bolt will come out. PB blast it for 10-15 minutes first. Get a breaker bar (or a pipe on a 1/2" rachet) and pull down. I've never had an issue with my car. And your under-carriage looks decent. No cutting. Shouldn't even need heat. PB and breaker bar should do the trick.

Geis

Well this problem all started back when I tried removing the dreaded bolt that holds the damper to the lca, even pb blastering the **** wouldn't budge and as a matter of fact I started bending the damper trying to get it off 0_0

In regards to the other bolt (the on holding the lca onto the chassis) I THINK I pb blastered it before as well, but either way I didn't bother doing it again because I torqued it so hard trying to break the bolt the entire assembly started bending a bit... and btw I tried an impact on this, it didn't do anything but start stripping the head of the bolt (god these bolts are driving me nuts....lol no pun intended)

Anyways so you guys think I should just spray the hell out of it again, wait an hour or so and then go back at it? Another member on TI suggested that I cut the welded nut off the back, then to just use a washer and nut on the backside along with some anti seize and that I would never have this problem again. What do you think?

Geis

Well I was actually referring to the bolt on the very left end of the lca holding it to the chassis, yeah the one holding the dampers is seized as **** too

backinblue92

iTrader: (1)

Winner winner!! Ur trying to remove bolts from an overloaded suspension.

Support the hub via a block of wood under the rotor and give it a shot. Think of it this way- you wouldn't try and pull the bolts out of engine mount braces without supporting the engine right? Same theory

Geis

Can I just use my jack to lift up on it instead?

backinblue92

iTrader: (1)

Sure. A jack works. But I'd buffer the jack and rotor with a block of wood so as to prevent any damage to the rotor.

The idea is simply to unload the pressure points, in your case, that would be the bolts.

backinblue92

iTrader: (1)

You just need to jack the suspension up from outside of the lca safely. Keep raising it until u feel the pressure on the bolt relieved

cafrog

It's really hard to get an LCA off or on without supporting the hub. It's even worse in terms of lining things up to reinstall the bolts. I always use a jack and a piece of wood. Thay way I can move the hub up and down as I work on removing or installing the LCA's. The Honda bolts are kind of self tapers with the pointed/threaded end. This helps getting them started into their welded nuts.

Atomic1

My method:
To remove LCA
Place Jack under inner LCA bolt, just barely in contact..
Loosen inner LCA Bolt, inner end of LCA drops onto jack. Lower jack slowly, spring/shock extends
Loosen shock bolt
Loosen outer LCA bolt

Install of the LCA is the reverse except that once you get the inner LCA bolt started you then jack up the hub which straigtens out the LCA to allow you to rethread it in.


If any of those bolts are seized to the bushing collars, no amount of PB blaster, heat, or swearing at it will work. Buy new LCA's, bolts and get out your cutting tools. You will need a lot of blades, cutoff wheels, face protection, and TIME. What worked for me is trying to break the threads loose first with a breaker or impact (but usually you cant turn it more than 1/4 turn without breaking off the head) making two cuts on each bolt, hugging the face of the bushing, then vice grips on the small stub to rotate the threaded end of bolt out.

So to paraphrase, if you dont feel like being without your car for 8hours worth of cutting, I would jack up on the outer end of the LCA and it should allow you to rethread in that inner LCA bolt.