Axatax

I have a creaking from my driver's side front-end, and a rear D/S wheel that can't be brought within proper toe despite these fixes, as well as a front P/S wheel with ~.5" negative caster.

Background information:

https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-civic-del-sol-1992-2000-1/00-civic-need-part-id-front-end-component-3089970/

Hit a steel construction beam doing around 60 or so. Yes, I know this is severe, but I really want to salvage this chassis -- this is a "Florida" car that looks like it just drove off the lot, a real-deal mythical "old lady" car (see the URL above). This is a 2K DX.

Replaced very obviously bent (DX) front LCAs on both sides with new OEM EM-1 LCAs.
Replaced front shock forks with junkyard OEM 97 CR-V shock forks (should be equiv. to EM-1 shock forks).
New wheels and tires all around.
Replaced D/S outer tie rod/ball joint (Moog).
Replaced shocks all around with new "OE equivalent" Monroe "quick struts" (spring/shock/tophat configuration)
Replaced rear D/S trailing arm with junkyard rear trailing arm with new Honda OEM trailing arm bushing (pressed in @ machine shop)
Replaced both CV axles (for good measure)
Replaced rear D/S LCA with new Honda OEM part

Car drives perfectly, but I have a very obvious/annoying "creaking" from the D/S front end. It sounds exactly like someone is jumping on a shitty mattress, as well as the rear D/S toe issue.

My next step is to replace both lower ball joints, and replace the D/S rear trailing arm (again) with a new OEM part, but I want some input before I continue to throw money at the suspension.

I solicited opinions here (unsuccessfully) WRT to having the vehicle measured and pulled on a frame rack.

All have met with zero feedback.

I'm trying to ascertain the cost of this this, but other internet forums state this procedure will almost certainly cost $4000+, etc., and not worth doing unless this is a Mercedes, etc. - others state they are "body guys" and do Hondas all the time for like $250, but of course, never return to the original thread to provide further information, so I'm somewhat at a loss if this should be pursued.

Thoughts?

Axatax

I should probably elaborate more:

The "creaking" occurs usually @ low speeds (< 25MPH), driving around parking lots or pulling into/out of the driveway.

There are no unusual sounds turning the wheel lock-to-lock.

It can happen getting into or out of the car (I weight ~145 lbs. - yeah, shut up )

If you rock the car side to side (ie. pushing on the driver's-side door), it doesn't creak.

If you push up and down on the center of the hood or trunk, the noise is heard from the D/S front wheel area.


The noise started occurring approx. 3 weeks after doing all the repairs in the first thread. Factory original ball joints on the car. All suspension bolts were torqued to spec with the vehicle on the ground.


This says "ball joint" to me.

sixphak

Its the lower balljoint. Had the same noise come from the drivers front on my dc, couldnt figure out where it was coming from. Hit all therubber bushings with silicone spray to try to locate the noise. Drove around for couple more weeks and the lower balljoint broke causing the wheel to shoot off at a 90 degree angle and it pulled the axle right out of the half shaft. When i looked at the broken balljoint, it looked like it has been hanging on by just half of the shaft. The break look like someone took a hot knife threw butter. Hope that helps.

Axatax

Thanks for the feedback!

I thought the problem was the ball joints 100% too. I purchased a pair and was ready to replace them.

When I jacked the car up, I heard the creaking and it really sounded like the noise was coming from somewhere else. I troubleshot this problem with a jack (raising/lowering the control arms) and a rubber tube in my ear with the other end placed near various interfaces in the front suspension.

The problem was actually @ the compliance bushings. I removed them, and lubricated the shafts on the LCAs that go through the bushings and now the noise is gone.

*None* of the material I have WRT to this car says anything about lubricating the shafts (to incl. the Helms manual). But I guess this is rather obvious if you understand how this part of the suspension works. That shaft rotates inside the metal "tube" in the center of this bushing.