bigsyke

I bled my system using some low quality non synthetic dot 4 brake fluid. For a DD will this corrode the braking system? I dont plan on flushing for about 1 year.

MAV3RiCK478

brake fluid is brake fluid. actually flushing it every year is very good, especially for dot4. i've run the valvoline stuff and had no complaints about it especially for daily driving. you should have no worries, just look at the color of it whenever you change oil and you can gauge how well its holding up.

Targa250R

You can use any DOT 3, DOT 4, or DOT 5.1 brake fluid without adverse effects; non-Honda fluid is fine.

Do not use DOT 5 as it is silicone-based and not compatible with the glycol-based 3/4/5.1 fluids.

bigsyke

ok, Im only concerned because now after I flushed, when I release the brake pedal, there is a squeak somewhere everytime. This worries me, Is that air in one of the channels? I used a check valve from the cruise control to prevent air from going back into the brake. Dont have a friend to help me

Targa250R

The squeak is probably in the pedal linkage somewhere under the dash and is likely unrelated to your flushing of the system. If there were air in the lines, you'd know it - the pedal would feel soft and mushy.

MAV3RiCK478

hee hee soft and mushy

makoto

all brake fluid (besides dot 5, the one targa was talking about) absorbs water. the difference is that they have higher wet and dry boiling points then the lesser grades. 3<4<5.1.

bigsyke

^^^ yes but what about cleaning agents?

Targa250R

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bigsyke &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">^^^ yes but what about cleaning agents? </TD></TR></TABLE>
What about them? And what do you mean by "cleaning agents"?

bigsyke

Doesnt the OEM honda DOT3 have a different mixture with a cleaning agent? I swore I read that on the bottle somewhere on the mixture. I know it cant be the same as the cheapo huge DOT 3 jugs at walmart for like $2.99


Heres what the OEM honda DOT3 says

Genuine Honda Brake Fluid Dot 3. The only recommended brake fluid for Honda vehicles.


*Reduces the corrosive effects of moisture in the fluid
*Very high boiling point
*Compatible with synthetic and rubber materials
*Minimal water absorption
*Reduces sediment formation in brake system

makoto

cleaning agents? um... yeah. I really dont know what is truely in brake fluid, cleaning agents or not. just run oem or something good. i mean, leave the generic $.99 jugs for the people who drive crapped out cars. you can't go wrong with oem, except in the more extreme conditions (track/spirited driving).

Targa250R

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bigsyke &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">*Reduces the corrosive effects of moisture in the fluid
*Very high boiling point
*Compatible with synthetic and rubber materials
*Minimal water absorption
*Reduces sediment formation in brake system</TD></TR></TABLE>
These are rather laughable, because most brake fluids could make similar claims. It's just marketing.

There is nothing special about Honda brake fluid. Having worked in the Honda/Acura service industry for several years now, I can tell you that using non-Honda fluid is not a problem.

There are certain parts on your vehicle that you should replace with genuine OE Honda only. Power steering fluid, thermostats, and are some of them. Brake fluid is not one of them.

No, the cheap jugs at WalMart are not the same, but you don't want those anyway.

For most street car applications, I just recommend a decent, readily available DOT 3 or DOT 4 fluid - something like Valvoline Synthetic, Castrol GT-LMA, Honda OE, etc.

For higher temp apps like time trials, track days, and club racing, you'll want something with higher boiling points such as Ate Typ200/Super Blue, Motul RBF 600, Castrol SRF, or Prospeed GS610. I've run Ate Typ200 fluid in both my track and street cars for years now because I feel it is the best bang for the buck - it exceeds DOT 4 boiling point specifications for about $12 per liter, and moisture absorption hasn't been a problem with flushing once a year (remember that higher temp fluids are generally more hygroscopic than lower temp fluids so they tend to absorb moisture more quickly and revert to their wet boiling points).

tortis

i think targa invented brake fluid.
you mentioned parts that we should only use oem, what are some others?

nsxtasy

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by makoto &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">all brake fluid (besides dot 5, the one targa was talking about) absorbs water. the difference is that they have higher wet and dry boiling points then the lesser grades. 3&lt;4&lt;5.1. </TD></TR></TABLE>

That ranking of DOT standards is true for the minimum boiling points:
DOT 3 - DRY 401F, WET 284F
DOT 4 - DRY 446F, WET 311F
DOT 5.1 - DRY 500F, WET 356F

However, many brake fluids exceed the standard with which they are labeled, and even exceed a higher standard. For example, Motul RBF 600 has a dry boiling point of 594F and wet of 421F, so it far exceeds the minimums to be labeled as DOT 5.1, but it's actually labeled as DOT 4.

You can see a list of dry and wet boiling points of most brake fluids in this topic.

If you're interested in reading the regulations about brake fluid (those DOT designations are specified by the federal Department of Transportation) - they're actually pretty interesting to car geeks like us - you can go to the federal regulation website and click to find TITLE 49, PART 571, Subpart B, Sec. 571.116, Standard No. 116; Motor vehicle brake fluids.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Targa250R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">For higher temp apps like time trials, track days, and club racing, you'll want something with higher boiling points such as Ate Typ200/Super Blue, Motul RBF 600, Castrol SRF, or Prospeed GS610.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I use Motul RBF 600. I'd rather have the extra 66 degrees of boiling point protection (compared with ATE). And it's still not all that expensive, around $15 per half-liter bottle. I've been using it for years, on both my heavily-tracked (and daily driven) cars, with excellent results.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tortis &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you mentioned parts that we should only use oem, what are some others? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Oil filters.
Coolant.

guymontag

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nsxtasy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Oil filters.
Coolant.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Seriously? Oops.

I mean, I know the oil filters I use aren't the best and I'm ok with that, but coolant? I didn't know Honda coolant was better, can you explain the diff?

bigsyke

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by guymontag &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Seriously? Oops.

I mean, I know the oil filters I use aren't the best and I'm ok with that, but coolant? I didn't know Honda coolant was better, can you explain the diff?</TD></TR></TABLE>

The ingredients? Ive known NOT to use anything else.

nsxtasy

Yup. Something about not having silicates, about having a formulation suitable for our engines...

makoto

good post you linked up; that'll help me decide what to run. and, guymontag, why are you alright using and inferior product (oil filter). if you were serious about your vehicle (i assume you are, since you are on here and asking questions for improvement help) you should run the best products you can afford for your vehicles.