Koni/GC H-T kit or buying separately
07-26-2006, 12:33 PM
#1
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Koni/GC H-T kit or buying separately
So I'm finally buying my suspension.. except I'm not sure how to go about buying it.
Koni Yellows at NoLimitMotorsport are $127/ea and GCs are $322.. all free shipping. That comes out to $830.
At the Ground Control Store.. it's $999+$52 for shipping. That's IF the promo code is still good.. it says it's not.. so :dunno: But it's my understanding it comes with new tophats ($120ish value) and of course custom spring rates.
Right now my car has KYB GR2's on stock springs.. the springs have 100k miles, dunno how many miles the GR2's have on them, but they look pretty old. I have no clue if I'll need new tophats or not.
So my question is.. what's the best buy for me?
edit: forgot to mention.. I want custom spring rates, so I guess the OTS GC's won't work.
Koni Yellows at NoLimitMotorsport are $127/ea and GCs are $322.. all free shipping. That comes out to $830.
At the Ground Control Store.. it's $999+$52 for shipping. That's IF the promo code is still good.. it says it's not.. so :dunno: But it's my understanding it comes with new tophats ($120ish value) and of course custom spring rates.
Right now my car has KYB GR2's on stock springs.. the springs have 100k miles, dunno how many miles the GR2's have on them, but they look pretty old. I have no clue if I'll need new tophats or not.
So my question is.. what's the best buy for me?
edit: forgot to mention.. I want custom spring rates, so I guess the OTS GC's won't work.
07-26-2006, 01:21 PM
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Re: Koni/GC H-T kit or buying separately (zoops)
You get 2 special things with the Ground Control Deal
1.) you get the G/C Top Hats (good for if you lower your car alot)
2.) you have a selection of 4 different spring rates for the front and rear (good for a more 'tuned' suspension
1.) you get the G/C Top Hats (good for if you lower your car alot)
2.) you have a selection of 4 different spring rates for the front and rear (good for a more 'tuned' suspension
07-26-2006, 01:36 PM
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Re: Koni/GC H-T kit or buying separately (zoops)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zoops »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So I'm finally buying my suspension.. except I'm not sure how to go about buying it.
Koni Yellows at NoLimitMotorsport are $127/ea and GCs are $322.. all free shipping. That comes out to $830.
At the Ground Control Store.. it's $999+$52 for shipping. That's IF the promo code is still good.. it says it's not.. so :dunno: But it's my understanding it comes with new tophats ($120ish value) and of course custom spring rates.
Right now my car has KYB GR2's on stock springs.. the springs have 100k miles, dunno how many miles the GR2's have on them, but they look pretty old. I have no clue if I'll need new tophats or not.
So my question is.. what's the best buy for me?
edit: forgot to mention.. I want custom spring rates, so I guess the OTS GC's won't work.</TD></TR></TABLE>
when i bought koni yellows/ground controls i paid like 775 shipped, the top hats are 120 for a pair extra, but you only really need them for the front. ask them for a package deal, they'll probably hook you up if you have a larger purchase order.
Koni Yellows at NoLimitMotorsport are $127/ea and GCs are $322.. all free shipping. That comes out to $830.
At the Ground Control Store.. it's $999+$52 for shipping. That's IF the promo code is still good.. it says it's not.. so :dunno: But it's my understanding it comes with new tophats ($120ish value) and of course custom spring rates.
Right now my car has KYB GR2's on stock springs.. the springs have 100k miles, dunno how many miles the GR2's have on them, but they look pretty old. I have no clue if I'll need new tophats or not.
So my question is.. what's the best buy for me?
edit: forgot to mention.. I want custom spring rates, so I guess the OTS GC's won't work.</TD></TR></TABLE>
when i bought koni yellows/ground controls i paid like 775 shipped, the top hats are 120 for a pair extra, but you only really need them for the front. ask them for a package deal, they'll probably hook you up if you have a larger purchase order.
07-26-2006, 01:42 PM
#4
Honda-Tech Member
Re: Koni/GC H-T kit or buying separately (super_nguyen)
actually, if i had koni's, i would use the extended top hats in the rear only. if i needed more shock travel, you can just lower the shock in the front fork, for free. the rear has no provision for that and would help reduce spring gap at full droop.
07-27-2006, 06:03 AM
#5
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Thread Starter
Ok, let me ask a better question (thanks for all of the replies so far!)
If I buy a brand new set of 4 Koni Yellows and 4 Ground Control coilovers with custom rates.. will that be everything I need? I plan on lowering about 2" (what the Koni's are recommended to handle) and these will be autocrossed just about every weekend.
For a college kid on a budget, there's a huge difference between getting all of this for $800 and spending $1050
If I buy a brand new set of 4 Koni Yellows and 4 Ground Control coilovers with custom rates.. will that be everything I need? I plan on lowering about 2" (what the Koni's are recommended to handle) and these will be autocrossed just about every weekend.
For a college kid on a budget, there's a huge difference between getting all of this for $800 and spending $1050
07-27-2006, 09:50 AM
#6
Honda-Tech Member
Re: (zoops)
get the koni and springs. you can get whatever else later once you see how it all works out for you.
you should think about getting a rear swaybar as well.
you should think about getting a rear swaybar as well.
07-27-2006, 10:42 AM
#7
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Thread Starter
Re: (Tyson)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tyson »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">get the koni and springs. you can get whatever else later once you see how it all works out for you.
you should think about getting a rear swaybar as well.</TD></TR></TABLE>
NoLimitMotorsport is now doing 4 yellows and 4 custom rate GC's for $775 shipped.. can't beat that. So I'll just get them separately. If I need the extended top mounts, I can always order those later.
The rest of the suspension will come eventually.. this is primarily an autocross car, so I want to see what the Koni/GC setup feels like first, then start making the little tweaks like sway bars.
you should think about getting a rear swaybar as well.</TD></TR></TABLE>
NoLimitMotorsport is now doing 4 yellows and 4 custom rate GC's for $775 shipped.. can't beat that. So I'll just get them separately. If I need the extended top mounts, I can always order those later.
The rest of the suspension will come eventually.. this is primarily an autocross car, so I want to see what the Koni/GC setup feels like first, then start making the little tweaks like sway bars.
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07-27-2006, 11:53 AM
#8
Re: (zoops)
FYI: Here is CRX lee's how too on mounting your koni's lower in the fork (instead of buying top-hats)...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CRX Lee »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Yes, they are a twin tube so a new dent won't screw things up but I have never made a dent and certainly would never file on the shock body. Once I tried whacking a new dent in the body but found I was more likely to just oval out the bottom of the shocks before a real dent got in it.
You guys are making it much harder than it need to be, I have been doing it for years. Leave the brake line bracket off and install the shock, spring and wishbone just like normal with the top and bottom mount bolts and nuts. Using the dent to align and start the pinch bolt, start the pinch bolt by only two or three threads so it is solidly started but definately not being tightened. Now take a large straight blade screw driver tip or a chisel punch around to the split on the back side of the wishbone and use it as a wedge and hammer the end it to further spread the split and make it looser around the shock bottom. Now put a floor jack under the LCA (the car is up on jack stands BTW) and lift the LCA upward loading against the spring and the car. The mouth of the wishbone will slide right up higher on the shock body and the pinch bolt slips up out of the dent. It only uses the dent as a guidepath so the bolt threads properly across the gap. You may need to fiddle with the wedge a bit or knock the top of the wishbone lightly with a hammer but it will normally move pretty easily. Once it stops moving, note how much shock bottom sticks through the bottom of the wishbone and make the other side match. Any amount of extra travel you get at the shock means 1.5 times that amount of free travel at the wheel. The key is that you must first use the dent to start the pinch bolt into the threading, if you don't then the arc of the shock body will deflect the tip of the pinchbolt on a tangent and you risk cross threading the wishbone like Tyson did (and I did until I figured it out).
Couldn't be easier, no new dents, no grinding or filing, just free stroke but remember that you must raise your spring perch accordingly or otherwise the car will just be lower with no extra stroke.
BTW, I just use one zip tie normally to hold the braided brake line (older Earls normally) and have had no evidence or concern of it moving or wearing.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CRX Lee »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Yes, they are a twin tube so a new dent won't screw things up but I have never made a dent and certainly would never file on the shock body. Once I tried whacking a new dent in the body but found I was more likely to just oval out the bottom of the shocks before a real dent got in it.
You guys are making it much harder than it need to be, I have been doing it for years. Leave the brake line bracket off and install the shock, spring and wishbone just like normal with the top and bottom mount bolts and nuts. Using the dent to align and start the pinch bolt, start the pinch bolt by only two or three threads so it is solidly started but definately not being tightened. Now take a large straight blade screw driver tip or a chisel punch around to the split on the back side of the wishbone and use it as a wedge and hammer the end it to further spread the split and make it looser around the shock bottom. Now put a floor jack under the LCA (the car is up on jack stands BTW) and lift the LCA upward loading against the spring and the car. The mouth of the wishbone will slide right up higher on the shock body and the pinch bolt slips up out of the dent. It only uses the dent as a guidepath so the bolt threads properly across the gap. You may need to fiddle with the wedge a bit or knock the top of the wishbone lightly with a hammer but it will normally move pretty easily. Once it stops moving, note how much shock bottom sticks through the bottom of the wishbone and make the other side match. Any amount of extra travel you get at the shock means 1.5 times that amount of free travel at the wheel. The key is that you must first use the dent to start the pinch bolt into the threading, if you don't then the arc of the shock body will deflect the tip of the pinchbolt on a tangent and you risk cross threading the wishbone like Tyson did (and I did until I figured it out).
Couldn't be easier, no new dents, no grinding or filing, just free stroke but remember that you must raise your spring perch accordingly or otherwise the car will just be lower with no extra stroke.
BTW, I just use one zip tie normally to hold the braided brake line (older Earls normally) and have had no evidence or concern of it moving or wearing.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
07-31-2006, 06:30 PM
#9
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Re: (94eg!)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94eg! »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">FYI: Here is CRX lee's how too on mounting your koni's lower in the fork (instead of buying top-hats)...
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Do you think it will help? I have Ground Control top hat but when I see the pics, it make me curious of what is it for?
</TD></TR></TABLE>Do you think it will help? I have Ground Control top hat but when I see the pics, it make me curious of what is it for?
07-31-2006, 10:21 PM
#10
Re: (py)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by py »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have Ground Control top hat but when I see the pics, it make me curious of what is it for?</TD></TR></TABLE>
The shock-fork mod is just a "free" alternative to GC top hats. If you already have the top-hats, I would say leave the setup alone. If you add any more compression travel with the shock-fork mod, you will run the risk of bottoming out the upper control arms on the shock tower when you hit bumps. That is because the bump-stops are supposed to keep the UCA from contacing...
The shock-fork mod is just a "free" alternative to GC top hats. If you already have the top-hats, I would say leave the setup alone. If you add any more compression travel with the shock-fork mod, you will run the risk of bottoming out the upper control arms on the shock tower when you hit bumps. That is because the bump-stops are supposed to keep the UCA from contacing...
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