How To: Convert power steering to manual
05-10-2008, 08:53 PM
#1
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How To: Convert power steering to manual
Picked up a GSR Rack from a local Junk yard and modded the rack to a manual and it cost me a little over 20 dollars in parts from NAPA.
1= Brass T fitting $3.95
8= Hose clamps $6.32
4ft.= Trans Oil Hose 3/8 $10.76
Picked up a Clutch reservoir at a junk yard $Free
Looped the main rack In/Out lines. About 10 inch piece (this is necessary you do not want it to short, it will kink and prevent flow.)
In the center of the rack there is a 1/4 in metal line that runs from one side of the rack to the other, this is were you will be adding the T fitting. Before you cut be sure that you try to be centered on this metal line, I cut a 4 to 5 inch section out of this line, then attached the T fitting with two pieces of the Trans Oil Hose about 3 in pieces each side of T fitting. Before securing this fitting, be sure to align it a little more towards the steering column in order to clear the rear tranny mount and bracket. I guess for some of those out there don't forget to use your Hose clamps to secure the hoses.
Then to finish it up Add the remaining hose to the third post on the T fitting. You will want to direct the T fitting slightly angled toward the front of your car, this is to clear the rear engine brace and mount again. Attach your clutch reservoir and and find yourself a good place to mount. I found that on my 93 Civic hatch the fuel filter had a bracket that was not used and with some slight bending to accommodate the angle of the clutch reservoir bracket seemed to be a perfect place for my breather reservoir.
It is actually a very easy mod, in fact removing all the power steering **** is the hard part.
Modified by 91CivicSir at 3:16 AM 5/13/2008
1= Brass T fitting $3.95
8= Hose clamps $6.32
4ft.= Trans Oil Hose 3/8 $10.76
Picked up a Clutch reservoir at a junk yard $Free
Looped the main rack In/Out lines. About 10 inch piece (this is necessary you do not want it to short, it will kink and prevent flow.)
In the center of the rack there is a 1/4 in metal line that runs from one side of the rack to the other, this is were you will be adding the T fitting. Before you cut be sure that you try to be centered on this metal line, I cut a 4 to 5 inch section out of this line, then attached the T fitting with two pieces of the Trans Oil Hose about 3 in pieces each side of T fitting. Before securing this fitting, be sure to align it a little more towards the steering column in order to clear the rear tranny mount and bracket. I guess for some of those out there don't forget to use your Hose clamps to secure the hoses.
Then to finish it up Add the remaining hose to the third post on the T fitting. You will want to direct the T fitting slightly angled toward the front of your car, this is to clear the rear engine brace and mount again. Attach your clutch reservoir and and find yourself a good place to mount. I found that on my 93 Civic hatch the fuel filter had a bracket that was not used and with some slight bending to accommodate the angle of the clutch reservoir bracket seemed to be a perfect place for my breather reservoir.
It is actually a very easy mod, in fact removing all the power steering **** is the hard part.
Modified by 91CivicSir at 3:16 AM 5/13/2008
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05-11-2008, 04:04 PM
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well when I took off my power steering parts i just took the lins off and left it open. I haven't had any prob since is there a reason why you would convert it over? Does it help with turning or anything?
05-12-2008, 01:26 AM
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Re: (91CivicSir)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 91CivicSir »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Steering Ratio is much better with the Integra rack. </TD></TR></TABLE>
because non-power steering rack is heavy on stop but become very lighter as car moves.
while removing belts on power-steering rack makes steering wheel even heavy on movements
basically the heavy "feel" people want to achieve can only come from power-steering racks. ITR's are the best I believe
because non-power steering rack is heavy on stop but become very lighter as car moves.
while removing belts on power-steering rack makes steering wheel even heavy on movements
basically the heavy "feel" people want to achieve can only come from power-steering racks. ITR's are the best I believe
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05-12-2008, 09:46 PM
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Re: (red02s2k)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by red02s2k »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well when I took off my power steering parts i just took the lins off and left it open. I haven't had any prob since is there a reason why you would convert it over? Does it help with turning or anything?</TD></TR></TABLE>
you need a new rack now, since it needed to lubricate itself. seals are gone
you need a new rack now, since it needed to lubricate itself. seals are gone
05-13-2008, 06:44 PM
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Re: (TotalBalance)
its not the "heavy" feeling, its the feedback and ratio that we are after, did this to my teg 4 years ago. its the RTR mod (so they say), haven't regretted it once
good info
05-13-2008, 09:27 PM
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Ive done this to both cars, its the 1st thing you should do, hands down.
However, to keep things cleaner, I keep hearing about packing the rack with grease, and plugging the holes.
What kinda grease? and has anybody done this with good results. Something about removing the main seal so the fluid/grease can flow "through" the rack, not just be pushed back and forth.
As far as I know, and somebody please correct me, The fluid ISNT circulated, its just pushed either to the left or right, and there is a seal that seperates the rack. There isnt an "in" and "out" port, both ports need to both expell and draw in fluid, because its not a circulated system. This is why its crucial to have a breather. Would a better setup be having 2 ports at the breather tank? One for each side of the rack so they;re not fighting?
However, to keep things cleaner, I keep hearing about packing the rack with grease, and plugging the holes.
What kinda grease? and has anybody done this with good results. Something about removing the main seal so the fluid/grease can flow "through" the rack, not just be pushed back and forth.
As far as I know, and somebody please correct me, The fluid ISNT circulated, its just pushed either to the left or right, and there is a seal that seperates the rack. There isnt an "in" and "out" port, both ports need to both expell and draw in fluid, because its not a circulated system. This is why its crucial to have a breather. Would a better setup be having 2 ports at the breather tank? One for each side of the rack so they;re not fighting?
05-15-2008, 12:40 AM
#13
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Re: (bigsyke)
From what I understand either side is not fighting, it is more less assisting the other while turning one direction, then vise versa for the other direction. The grease setup is probably not to bad of idea either, just a little more work. This setup takes about 20 minutes on the rack itself plus time to remove all excess power steering components (i.e. Pump, cooler, lines)
05-20-2008, 01:42 PM
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Re: (Scotty Dosent Know)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Scotty Dosent Know »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">instead of cutting the metal line couldnt you T in and run your breather off of the line that is looped?</TD></TR></TABLE>
how could you T into a metal line? and no because 2 years down the road it will leak. You WANT to install brass fittings (1/4ths and 3/8ths [50% sure of size]) to ensure it doesnt leak.
The shorter and more efficient the loop, the easier it will be to turn.
how could you T into a metal line? and no because 2 years down the road it will leak. You WANT to install brass fittings (1/4ths and 3/8ths [50% sure of size]) to ensure it doesnt leak.
The shorter and more efficient the loop, the easier it will be to turn.
05-20-2008, 01:43 PM
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Re: (bigsyke)
Fluid gets circulated... Keep in mind that in a p/s setup, you have a pump pushing fluid in one port, and the other port is the out.
If you simply use a reservoir and have the plumbing in a T or Y configuration so that one end connects to the reservoir and the other 2 connect to both ports on the rack, you should be fine. It keeps fluid in both sides and keeps the seals from going.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bigsyke »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ive done this to both cars, its the 1st thing you should do, hands down.
However, to keep things cleaner, I keep hearing about packing the rack with grease, and plugging the holes.
What kinda grease? and has anybody done this with good results. Something about removing the main seal so the fluid/grease can flow "through" the rack, not just be pushed back and forth.
As far as I know, and somebody please correct me, The fluid ISNT circulated, its just pushed either to the left or right, and there is a seal that seperates the rack. There isnt an "in" and "out" port, both ports need to both expell and draw in fluid, because its not a circulated system. This is why its crucial to have a breather. Would a better setup be having 2 ports at the breather tank? One for each side of the rack so they;re not fighting?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
If you simply use a reservoir and have the plumbing in a T or Y configuration so that one end connects to the reservoir and the other 2 connect to both ports on the rack, you should be fine. It keeps fluid in both sides and keeps the seals from going.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bigsyke »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ive done this to both cars, its the 1st thing you should do, hands down.
However, to keep things cleaner, I keep hearing about packing the rack with grease, and plugging the holes.
What kinda grease? and has anybody done this with good results. Something about removing the main seal so the fluid/grease can flow "through" the rack, not just be pushed back and forth.
As far as I know, and somebody please correct me, The fluid ISNT circulated, its just pushed either to the left or right, and there is a seal that seperates the rack. There isnt an "in" and "out" port, both ports need to both expell and draw in fluid, because its not a circulated system. This is why its crucial to have a breather. Would a better setup be having 2 ports at the breather tank? One for each side of the rack so they;re not fighting?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
05-23-2008, 08:25 AM
#20
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Re: (bigsyke)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bigsyke »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
how could you T into a metal line? and no because 2 years down the road it will leak. You WANT to install brass fittings (1/4ths and 3/8ths [50% sure of size]) to ensure it doesnt leak.
The shorter and more efficient the loop, the easier it will be to turn.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Your not very smart are you?
How can you T into a metal line.....did you even read the write up or look at the pictures?
Why would it leak 2 yeas down the road? A hose clamp on the line would be sufficient seeing as it is no longer a high pressure system......if you think that will leak then why doesnt your cooling system leak.
and the shorter the loop the easier it will be to turn......ok I dont even want to know how you came up with that little tidbit of info lol
how could you T into a metal line? and no because 2 years down the road it will leak. You WANT to install brass fittings (1/4ths and 3/8ths [50% sure of size]) to ensure it doesnt leak.
The shorter and more efficient the loop, the easier it will be to turn.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Your not very smart are you?
How can you T into a metal line.....did you even read the write up or look at the pictures?
Why would it leak 2 yeas down the road? A hose clamp on the line would be sufficient seeing as it is no longer a high pressure system......if you think that will leak then why doesnt your cooling system leak.
and the shorter the loop the easier it will be to turn......ok I dont even want to know how you came up with that little tidbit of info lol
05-23-2008, 08:27 AM
#21
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Re: (unusual71)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by unusual71 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">did you fill the lines (the loop and the line with the T fitting) with powersteering fluid before you closed them up?</TD></TR></TABLE>
You dont you just pump most of the fluid out of the car and leave some in the rack. When you turn the wheels you will hear is sloshing around in there.
You dont you just pump most of the fluid out of the car and leave some in the rack. When you turn the wheels you will hear is sloshing around in there.
05-23-2008, 10:48 AM
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Re: (Scotty Dosent Know)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Scotty Dosent Know »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Your not very smart are you?
How can you T into a metal line.....did you even read the write up or look at the pictures?
Why would it leak 2 yeas down the road? A hose clamp on the line would be sufficient seeing as it is no longer a high pressure system......if you think that will leak then why doesnt your cooling system leak.
and the shorter the loop the easier it will be to turn......ok I dont even want to know how you came up with that little tidbit of info lol
</TD></TR></TABLE>
oh boy here we go. Take your football coach **** elsewhere because you made no sence on anything you tried to combat my info with. I track both cars, an EK and ITR, and both have leaked when not using a barbed fitting. If you just cut the metal line and slide the hose over the hard line, the lubrication of the PS fluid WILL compromise the connection. You honestly can not be serious here. Oh and most connections like this that are OE have a lip on the end of the pipe, and you put a clamp BEFORE that to ensure it doesnt slide off.
And yes, a more direct path will make it easier to turn, again where is YOUR info to combat that?
Your not very smart are you?
How can you T into a metal line.....did you even read the write up or look at the pictures?
Why would it leak 2 yeas down the road? A hose clamp on the line would be sufficient seeing as it is no longer a high pressure system......if you think that will leak then why doesnt your cooling system leak.
and the shorter the loop the easier it will be to turn......ok I dont even want to know how you came up with that little tidbit of info lol
</TD></TR></TABLE>oh boy here we go. Take your football coach **** elsewhere because you made no sence on anything you tried to combat my info with. I track both cars, an EK and ITR, and both have leaked when not using a barbed fitting. If you just cut the metal line and slide the hose over the hard line, the lubrication of the PS fluid WILL compromise the connection. You honestly can not be serious here. Oh and most connections like this that are OE have a lip on the end of the pipe, and you put a clamp BEFORE that to ensure it doesnt slide off.
And yes, a more direct path will make it easier to turn, again where is YOUR info to combat that?
05-23-2008, 11:23 AM
#23
Honda-Tech Member
Re: (bigsyke)
I track my cars also and have never had a problem doing it this way, maybe you have not mastered hose clamps yet. If your that worried about it flare the end of the line.
As long as your hose for the loop isnt kinked I really dont think it matters how long it is, besides why would you even have a ton of hose there? You could have 8ft of hose on your loop and it would not matter because with the breather installed it is not a sealed system any more. Thats the point of this thread.
Im also going to call b.s. on you even owning an ITR, arnt you the same person that posted a topic on why does my 5spd shift like an automatic?
Modified by Scotty Dosent Know at 12:28 PM 5/23/2008
As long as your hose for the loop isnt kinked I really dont think it matters how long it is, besides why would you even have a ton of hose there? You could have 8ft of hose on your loop and it would not matter because with the breather installed it is not a sealed system any more. Thats the point of this thread.
Im also going to call b.s. on you even owning an ITR, arnt you the same person that posted a topic on why does my 5spd shift like an automatic?
Modified by Scotty Dosent Know at 12:28 PM 5/23/2008
05-26-2008, 03:06 PM
#25
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Thread Starter
Re: (Scotty Dosent Know)
When I attached the T fitting I did attempt to flare the open ends of the metal lines. I do not have access to a flare tool so I made do with a flat head screw driver, by rotating the driver inside the line while applying pressure until I got a flare. Oh and the T fitting is barbed. As for the sloshing and filling the T, etc. I added Power Steering fluid to the reservoir every couple days until I had some seepage, once this occurred then I removed a bit of what was left in the reservoir. The sloshing was not as loud after removing the air bubbles from the rack. Keep in mind now that when I was adding fluid I would make it a point to turn fully right and left to insure the rack was completely compromised. I spent about 2 days of driving and checking, but now it has stabilized.