Master23

To see the original article with images check it out here:Honda Civic Suspension EG: control arms, assemblies and more. Garage411.com

FRONT SUSPENSION

The Honda Civic EG And Civic Del Sol use independent, double wish-bone, strut type suspension. The coil-over strut assembly is attached to the steering knuckle through the lower control arm. The steering knuckle is attached to upper and lower control arms by ball joints. A stabilizer bar and strut rod are attached to lower control arm.

WHEEL BEARING

Inspection
1. Wheel bearings require no adjustment. Bearings should be checked for excessive movement. Support vehicle, and remove wheel.
2. Install dial indicator with stem positioned on front hub surface. Move hub assembly in and out. Note reading. Movement should be 0-.002" (0-.05 mm). If movement is not as specified, replace bearing.

Removal
1. Remove steering knuckle. Remove splash guard. Using Front Hub Remover/Installer (07JAF-SH20110), press hub from steering knuckle. Remove bearing retaining snap ring and knuckle ring from knuckle. Press bearing out of knuckle.
2. Using bearing puller, remove outboard bearing from hub. Clean knuckle and hub thoroughly before reassembly.

Installation
Press NEW bearing into knuckle. DO NOT exceed 4000 lbs. (1814 kg) pressure. Install snap ring in knuckle groove. Install splash guard, and invert knuckle. Using press, install knuckle/bearing assembly onto hub.DO NOT exceed 4000 lbs. (1814 kg) pressure. To complete installation, reverse removal procedure.

HUB AND KNUCKLE ASSEMBLY

Removal
1. Loosen lug nuts with vehicle weight on tires. Pry lock tab away from spindle nut, and loosen nut. Raise and support vehicle. Remove lug nuts and spindle nut. Remove wheel assembly. Remove caliper assembly, and support aside. DO NOT put weight on flexible brake line.
2. Remove brake disc retaining screws. Install two 8 x 12-mm bolts in brake disc, and tighten bolts to force brake disc from hub. Alternate tightening of bolts to prevent brake disc from binding on hub. Remove cotter pin and nut from tie rod end.
3. Using Ball Joint Remover (07MAC-SL00200), separate tie rod ball joint and lift tie rod end out of knuckle. Remove cotter pin from lower control arm ball joint, and loosen castle nut half length of joint threads. Using ball joint separator, separate lower ball joint from control arm.
4. Remove upper ball joint shield. Remove cotter pin and upper ball joint stud nut. Using ball joint remover, separate ball joint from steering knuckle. Remove steering hub/knuckle assembly from axle shaft.

Installation
To install hub/knuckle, reverse removal procedure. Tighten bolts and nuts to specification. Use NEW spindle nut, and stake after tightening.

LOWER CONTROL ARM

Removal
1. Raise and support front of vehicle. Remove wheel assembly. Remove strut fork and strut rod (radius arm) bolts. Remove nut, bolt and bushings from stabilizer bar.
2. Remove cotter pin from lower control arm ball joint, and remove castle nut. Using puller, separate lower control arm from ball joint. Pull arm down until clear of lower ball joint stud. Remove lower control arm pivot bolt, and remove control arm.
3. Remove steering knuckle. Remove dust boot snap ring, dust boot and external ball joint snap ring.
4. Install Ball Joint Remover/Installer (07965-SB00100) Place installer over ball joint stud with large diameter opening facing away from ball joint. Install stud nut.
5. Position Ball Joint Remover Base (07JAF-SH20200) with open end over ball joint flat surface. Place assembly in vise. Tighten vise and press ball joint from steering knuckle.

Installation
1. Position ball joint in steering knuckle. Install ball joint remover/installer on stud end of ball joint with large diameter opening facing ball joint. Position Ball Joint Installer Base (07965-SB00200) over end of ball joint. Using vise, press ball joint into knuckle.
2. Install ball joint snap ring and dust boot. Using Dust Boot Snap Ring Guide (07974-SA50700), install dust boot snap ring.
3. Reverse removal procedure to install control arm. Use a NEW lower control arm pivot bolt. Tighten bolt to specification.

UPPER CONTROL ARMS

Inspection
Raise and support the front of your EG Civic. Remove wheel assembly. Rock upper ball joint front to back. Replace upper control arm bushings if any play exists.

Removal
1. Raise and support front of vehicle. Remove wheel assembly. Remove cotter pin and nut from upper ball joint stud.
2. Using ball joint remover, separate upper ball joint from steering knuckle. Remove upper control arm anchor bolts-to-body retaining nuts. Remove upper control arm. Clamp each upper arm anchor bolt in a vise. Remove upper arm bushings.

Bushing Replacement
Remove control arm bushing nuts and bolts. Clamp upper control arm anchor bolt in a soft-jawed vise. Drive out bushing. Grease and install NEW control arm bushing. Ensure bushing is centered in anchor bolt. Install bushing nuts and bolts, and tighten them to specification.

Installation
To install, reverse removal procedure. Tighten nuts and bolts to specification. Check camber, and adjust if necessary.

STRUT ASSEMBLY

Removal
Raise and support front of your EG Civic. Remove wheel assembly and brake hose clamp from strut. Remove strut-tofork self-locking pinch bolt and strut fork bolt. Remove strut fork assembly. Remove cap and nuts from top of strut. Remove strut assembly.

CAUTION: Strut contains pressurized nitrogen gas. To dispose of properly, drill a 5/64" (2.0 mm) hole at base of strut. Always wear eye protection when drilling.

Disassembly
Using spring compressor, compress spring slightly to remove spring tension. Hold strut rod using an Allen wrench and remove nut retaining spring seat and mounting base. Slowly release spring compressor and lift spring off. Disassemble strut assembly, noting relative position of assembled parts.

Reassembly
Check parts for cracks, deterioration and damage. Check shock absorber for leaks and improper operation. Replace strut if resistance is weak, uneven or jerky when strut is compressed. Replace worn or damaged parts. Position mounting base with one stud aligned with tab on strut housing. To complete reassembly, reverse disassembly procedure.

Installation
1. Install strut fork on lower control arm. Position strut assembly so tab on strut housing aligns with slot in fork. Align upper strut studs with strut tower holes. Place jack under knuckle, and raise it until vehicle just lifts off safety stands.

Strut mount base nuts must be tightened with vehicle weight on strut.

2. Install upper strut mount nuts. Tighten strut assembly while strut is under load. Reverse removal procedure to complete installation. Tighten retaining nuts and bolts to specification.

FRONT SUSPENSION TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS Ft. Lbs. (N.m)

* Ball Joint Nut:

• Lower 37-44 (50-60)
• Upper 30-35 (40-48)

* Brake Caliper Mounting Bolt: 81 (110)
* Lower Control Arm Pivot Bolt: 47 (64)
* Spindle Nut: 136 (185)
* Stabilizer Bar Mounting Bolts: 16 (22)
* Strut Assembly Shaft Nut: 22 (30)
* Strut Fork Pinch Bolt: 33 (45)
* Strut Fork-To-Control Arm Nut: 48 (65)
* Tie Rod Lock Nut: 41 (55)
* Upper Control Arm Anchor Bolt Nut: 48 (65)
* Upper Control Arm Bushing Bolt: (2) 22 (30)
* Upper Strut Mounting Nut: 29 (39)
* Wheel Lug Nut: 81 (110)

TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS INCH Lbs. (N.m)

* Ball Joint Shield Bolt: 89 (10.0)
* Brake Line Clamp Bolt: 89 (10.0)

To see the original article with images check it out here:Honda Civic Suspension EG: control arms, assemblies and more. Garage411.com

usdmteg

when dis-connecting front lower control arm: why must I remove the steering knuckle from the spindle/car? Is this a step to proceed w/upper control arm removal? thanx for ur time (whoever responds)

I'm in process of replacing f.l.c.a. bushings w/hardrace bushings &

my research in a chilton/haynes manual states to NOT remove control arm from the radius arm because it will cause problems during re-installation (I guess the arms are warped together and wont mate back together properly?) please help!!!!

abs0Lut

you shouldnt need to ^^^ im getting the hardrace master bushing kit pressed in as we speak.

EgH22Turbo

Good thread. Very helpful.

mooseman789

nice

usdmteg

update: i took the control arms apart from the A arm and cut the i.d. in bushing sleeve & this made it much easier to knock out the old sleeves.

Now i'm in process of finding someone to press the bushings back in & I don't want to pay 75$ for 10-20 minutes of work on a simple press machine. I have devised a method to "press" the new bushings back in with: +/- 10" of all thread 7/16", some nuts and cut washers not fender washers. Make sure the washers are wide enough to clear the hole for the bushing mount bolt (u need just one) and a couple of thick bushings w/i.d. big enough to clear the small bushings so these two thick washers are pressing on the sleeve and not the inner rubber part.

The screw will go through the bushing hole, washers and screw into the nuts. The other side use about 3 of those thick cut washers to back them up against the control arm and a couple washers for the bolt(s) to torque down on the washers that are flush against the control arm (this would be the end part of the hole where the bushing would stop going through the hole because it would be done pressing itself in, i mean ur not pushing the bushing all the way out)

The object is to screw the nuts or bolts together-towards each other, simultaneously on opposing sides of the control arm therefore you'll evenly press the bushing into the control arm cavity or hole. I used a 3/8 impact gun & backed up the other side w/a 5/8 wrench, but I supermanned it gussied the bolt/screw & tweeked it-don't over torque (use anti-seize to prevent threads from seizing up & use high grade ANSI steel bolt or All Thread.
I got one bushing in (strut cavity hole 3/4 the way & my impact gun and screw don't have enough hoo-raw, so i'm breaking down & having them pressed in, but u can press them in without a press or doing it the caveman way (hammering them in-not a good idea btw) good luck and happy motoring, peace

usdmteg

@absoLut, who's pressing them and how much (if u don't mind me asking?) my arms are allready with only three bushings needing pressed besides the 1/2 ways one that's in

bwr94eg

Harbor freight has a 20 shop press for 120... use the 20% off coupon and use it what u need it for then return it... lol just saying! Thanks for the write up we need more of these instead of random information thrown about in a 900 page thread.

usdmteg

thanx bwr94eg, i've seen those Harbor Freight coupons in import tuner mags like Honda-Tuning and Super Street & I took the mag in the store & they scanned the ad so I used it buy a airhammer & air ratchet. Here's a little more info on bushing install:

A heavy duty diesel mechanic informed me when they have trouble w/sleeves not "securing" or "sticking" which will cause the bushing to float inside say a control arm hole, what they do is "peen" the i.d. of the assailant with a chisel (u should research for proper chisel type, I'll find out & post in few hours) Or do this to reduce ur chances of a floating bushing sleeve. Floating bushings are more common on our cars with the trailing arm bushing. that's all my knowledge on this subject good luck & happy tuning!!

Our (Honda) control arms such have such super tight tolerances, I hope this won't be a problem when pressing in my bushings, just encase your or my i.d. is too big, this chisel method might work.

This is serious stuff, when our 10+ year old suspension rubber bushings get "shot out" it dominoes the geometry of the vehicle & most importantly=alignment