omega329

Hello guys, the ABS pump on my Integra failed, started leaking, and was really causing my braking to be erratic at times. A month or so ago I "jimmy rigged" it together, however I will be redoing it with a PLAN and some knowledge and experience from my first attempt. This is not a "tuck" this is a functioning, safe alternative for ABS removal.

Starting off with this tool, it is an inline double flaring tool that I have found to be pretty consistent. Other options are the Ridgid designed tool and if you have 250$ laying around, the hydrolic tool is definitely worth it.
Master Inline Flaring Tool Kit
There are cheaper prop valves out there, and the oem 40/40 can be picked up for 80$ new. From my research the OEM valves can fail and have 0 adjustability, so why not upgrade?
Wilwood High-Performance Disc Brakes - MasterCylinder No: 260-11179
Third, the brake fittings, this website is a retailer for Brakequip brake parts, and from what I have found is the best source for all the fittings you'll need at cheap prices.
https://www.brakequipstore.com/

I ordered everything today, hopefully if I get this stuff before the weekend ill be posting some pictures and stuff of the process.

Parts list that is on the way
BQ91A M10 x 1 X 1-1/4" 1/2" 9.00mm 8mm - 3-Way Tube Tees x 2 (Will be teeing the fronts and rears)
BQ61 M10 x 1 X 13mm 10mm 17mm 27mm - Banjo Union x 1 (Right angle at the master cylinder to save space)
BQ8095 M10 x 1 R 22mm [7/8"] 12mm - Banjo Bolt x 1 (Bolt is shorter that standard, hopefully small enough to not have to double washers)
BQ1016 10mm 10.1 16.00 1.5 - Copper Washers x 20 (You really only need 2 washers for the banjo bolt, but for the price I ordered spares for the caliers)
BQ4511 M10 x 1 14mm 10mm 3/16" - Male Tube Nuts x 12 (Everything except the Prop valve is 10mmx1 inverted double flare)
BQ9180 M12 x 1 15mm 12mm 3/16" - Male Tube Nuts x 1 (On ABS Master Cylinders one connection is 12mmx1)
BQ117 M10 x 1 X 13.0mm 22.0mm - Female Tube Unions x 2 (Useful for splitting up the longer stretches)

slowcivic2k

Where was the pump assembly leaking from? I would highly suggest you recondition your unit if all you had was a leak. Even then, ABS provides more stable full stab braking than most people could do manually. I am not thinking track, I am thinking "street" driving.

With the money you would throw into "deleting" it, you could buy a new one.

There is no "safe" alternative to removing ABS. If you think there is, you do not fully understand what the system offers you in terms of predictable stopping distance.

omega329

When I still had the ABS, I would slam the brakes in rain, and she wouldn't do anything and then lock up 2-3 seconds later, and I never really looked into where it was leaking from, I just happened to notice low brake fluid and a bunch of missing paint near the unit.

My integra is really roughed up to be honest. She is 20 years old, ABS didn't even function prior to it leaking brake fluid, throwing codes for sensors, and the brake lines were in really bad shape, to the point that after removing 2-3 from the ABS unit just slightly moving them was causing them to kink and a few were rusted, so I can almost guarantee if I tried to put the stock mess back together it would have costed hundreds. And lets be honest, most people still driving around 20 year old hondas don't exactly have safety as a priority, hell most people have chopped up seat brackets and aftermarket steering wheels with no airbag.

I completely agree, removing ABS isn't for everyone, I have had some close encounters without it, it definitely required some quicker thinking and getting used to how your car reacts when she locks up. Although most of our civic cousins never had ABS to begin with. Some decent all weather 205/50/15 tires will definitely help as well.

I consider this "safer" than the often overpriced and illegal AN fittings that people use on their brake lines.

A new abs pump... is worth more than half my car.
3 57110-S30-003 MODULATOR ASSY., ABS $928.30 $686.94
Even the local junkyard price is quite hefty for me.
ABS UNIT (COMPLETE) 84.99

I spent less than 200$ on this delete, 50$ on fittings, 80$ on the prop valve, and another 60$ in new lines and fluid.
(I don't factor tool costs as I am young and I imagine ill have this hobby for ever.)

donut.

Why not use the parts from a car that didn't come with abs, like the Integra RS?

omega329

"He's right. I lock up the inside rear on almost every corner with stock gsr rear brakes and street pads. A lot of people at the track have this problem. Some go as far as cutting grooves in their rear pads so they have less bite. The problem with this is you're dragging that tire around a turn, which could lead to a flat spot. In fact, if you have abs, it will make things even harder. Granted, you'll have to be at a certain pace around the track for the problem to become"

That is a quote from yourself, so, you could see no use for the Wilwood adjustable prop valve to reduce the effectiveness of the rear brakes?

slowcivic2k

ABS modulation is not prefect. Before you remove it you must ask yourself why, and what you stand to lose or gain in that situation.

For a street car, ABS is very helpful. A race vehicle is radically different, and requires unique solutions. You must define your goals before you undertake such a modification. Too few people set an end goal before makings such modifications.

Depending on your "goals", determine the point of failure, and determine if a repair can be made. A fluid leak is easily corrected and is no reason to deem the module defective from a professional standpoint.