98cdmej6

wow, so if your not a smart *** and you try to be it'll just makes you look like a dumb ***!

yea already read that not a whole lotta info on the differance between progress cs-2 350/350 and 350/250. they re just too close i would hate to buy them and then wish i went alittle softer...or stiffer.
just lookin fer some real inputs not copy n pasting.

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

I ran with a 450 f/r and I loved it. The 350/250 is definitely too soft on the CS-IIs. 350 F/R won't be too much of an upgrade. I'm tempted to try the 500s.

98cdmej6

sweet thanks for the help grumblemarc nice to see a legit person with some real info!
prolly gonna snag 350/350's
...500's sound to intense for my first time with coilovers on my DD! haha

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

Get those and get used to them. 250 in the rear is better suited to people who have regular passengers in the back seat. When I finally get around to installing the rear swaybar we'll see if that makes a difference.

98cdmej6

word i hate driving around passengers they make me go slow. (well at least slower than just me and my little y7)

Libertariat

I would definitely recommend the 350/350 first. 250 rear is just too soft.

But 350 front is a little too soft in my opinion as well. I enjoy my setup. Adding a front swaybar helps A LOT with the soft front spring rates.

98cdmej6

sweet hey thanks again guys for helpin me find a solid suspension setup!
i love the H-T!

bad 91 teg

nice job..and i have progress csII, so happy ...wow and i was going to buy ff type 1. lol

FlewByU352

I am about to order my Ground Controls next month, planning on a 2.5" drop up front and a 2.25" drop in the rear just about making both fenders at peak arc 23" from the ground. I figure a 450/350 setup would be nice for a daily.

98civdx

I agree. Almost the same spring rates I want for my car.

350 in the rear is a great mix between performance and comfort, and the 450 in front is needed simply for the drop, and will not have nearly as much affect on the comfort as the rear will.

98civdx

Why did you have to post that? lol

Damnit' now I really want to get them
Trying to decide, Volk ce28n Time attack's or AMR coilovers.

Libertariat

Both!

98civdx

Now how did I know someone was going to say that? lol

known

iTrader: (1)

I didnt see the progress series 1 listed?

I would also say that your list needs to include higher end suspension if you are labeling it "road racing setups" and "$1000+". Koni race valved with GC are not too far away from $1000+ and there are others as well.

Im currently running series 1 progress 800f/1100r hypercoils that run about ~$1300 as a budget coil over for my scca STL civic. I asked progress to vale them for these rates.


Koni sports at 600lbs+?? Not really something I would recommend, that is why they offer a revalved unit for higher rates.

Good list for its general purpose for the most part.

Libertariat

At $1400 I'd rather have AMR with the lifetime warranty.

No, I wouldn't recommend Koni's at 600lbs either. That's certainly reaching the upper scope of their damping range. I doubt you'd damage the shock, however.

And the list is 100% general and my personal opinion. Thanks for the comments though

98civdx

I recall my buddy having 10kF 12k rear on OTS sports on his 99 hatch for over a year, and he was fine. (this was 3-4 years ago)

Deffinetly underdampened, but, the shocks didn't leak, blow or anything bad.

I would not reccomend doing that either, based on what I have read/seen/ and somewhat experienced with my buddy's car you "should" be ok at or below the 600lb range.

He took one look at how much the race's cost, and said **** no. lol

jdb83923

sick post

Skip01

Where can you buy AMRs?

Just through them?

98civdx

IMO yes, the only place you can buy AMR is threw AMR.

Check the market place for his add, or just find and PM him.

charnrin

This thread help me a lot. Thank a lot.

But, I don't have enough money for help my self.

I plan to go with GC/Koni or Tein Flax. So, Not enough money I ordered Tokico Illumina Set with springs.

For future witch GC you recommend with Illumina?

My car is del Sol Si.

98civdx

^^ What do you mean what GC? Do you mean what spring rates?

charnrin

Exactly, I don't have fast engine and plan to lower about 1.2 - 1.8. I have Neuspeed Race with stock shocks at this time. It very hard to drive on driveways. And, My front toe not zero. It's toe out 2 degree at right side (left side almost 0 degree) I got toe out after alignment (before get alignment it's not too bad. I don't know why?) then after 2 week I lose a lot of tire trend.

This time I have to lift my car for set 0 degree on toe immediately and buy a new set of tires.

PS. The alignment place told me about tie rod end. He said my tie rod end not enough to adjust.

PS2. Sorry about my English.

98civdx

I can tell you why, the person doing the alignment was a idiot. OR you have something messed up in the front end. You should not have to lift the car, if you don't want to.

Have you ever suffored suspension damage?
I was slammed and they could still get my toe perfectly in spec.

your english isn't nearly as bad as half the poeple who post here. Trust me, I have seen stuff it took me 3 trys just to understand half of what he said.

charnrin

I got some bump on bad surface road then my rim bent. It happen 3 time - my 2 rims bent.

Before put Neuspeed race everythnig was fine. My old tires set still look good (1.5 years old.)

After put Neuspeed all rims got minus camber angle. And, I put new rims. I think it's a little bit toe out. Because I saw the tire lose some trend.

Yes, I got problem after I went to this alignment place. After I saw the problem I try to tell the guy. But, He try to say my suspension parts bad or not enough to adjust.

Just 2 weeks my tire no trend inside.

So, My new plan - I wanna put new tire size (Old one is 205/40/16 easy to bent) I looking for 215/45/16. This size shouldn't fit. It's no room in my fender.

That is my story.

I apologist if my message make you confuse.

Libertariat

It's one of two things:

1) Your alignment guy is a moron.

2) Some component of your suspension is damaged. Big time.