spoonef

Oka so if i brake from a high speed 60-and on my car shakes really bad but at lower speeds its fine.Are my rotors warped? if so ill buy some brembo blanks or something but yah what does it sound like to you guys?

Tyson

i know this may not sound related, but do you get a lot of suspension clunk, especially on the passenger side? like when you go over bumpy road or drive over a crack on the road or onto a driveway with slightly raised asphalt?

if so, you probably need to replace your steering rack bushing. that greatly accentuates warped rotor vibration, because it allows extra play in the suspension.

so you need to replace the rack end bushing, and adjust the gear box and replace/turn the rotors.

trust me, i JUST went through this with my crx. after fixing it all, it rides perfect, no clunks.

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1117870

http://crx.honda-perf.org/foru...light=

ill repeat this just because i cant stress it enough...

i really think by now, 14-18 years since new, every crx needs this changed if it hasnt already. i tihnk a lot of ppls complaints of "bad handling" would be slightly altered if they realized the difference this little bushing makes.

spoonef

Hey man thanks i think thats exactly my problem .So should i just go into honda and ask for a rack end bushing for my 92 cx? i thought something was wierd cuz i have ground controls and im riding on month old agxs it feels great but i swear the passenger side feels like someone is hitting it with a ******* sledgehammer when i go over bad bumps or those lines on the freeway.

Tyson

yep, thats it on the passenger side. check back after you replace it, tell me how great it feels.

get the rack end bushing and the lock washer just in case. $10.

dont forget to adjust the gear box as well.

spoonef

How do i go about adjusting the gearbox?

philosofy1

sounds like warped rotors. just replace them.

Tyson

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by spoonef &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How do i go about adjusting the gearbox?</TD></TR></TABLE>

http://www.honda.co.uk/owner/C...4.pdf

just to make it clear, you definately have warped rotors, but its more than that. if you replace just the rotors, youll warp em quicker than if you replace the bushing also. a warped rotor should not feel like a pounding when you brake. just a slight nudge. if its making your car "shake violently", something else is wrong. replacing rotors every 3000 miles is just an expensive bandaid.


Modified by Tyson at 12:57 AM 8/6/2005

spoonef

The thing is it was never like this before but i would say a few months ago(3 maybe)my friend showed me how to change my brake pads.He pointed and told me what to unscrew and whatnot so maybe something went wrong there.I do remember it being fine after changine the pads so maybe its not that ehhhh i dont kno

Tyson

well, if something is wrong, like you have a loose bolt or something, then theres something else wrong... im just telling you whats probably wrong if everything else should be right. this loose bushing is probably you problem, but its not the only possibility... you know what i mean? you gotta check yourself. theres only so much that can be done over the internet.

Tad

you didn't bed in the pads correctly most likely,

now you have an uneven contact surface on the rotors.

the rotors aren't actually "warped"

but to fix this you'd need to resurface your rotors and get new pads.
then bed them in PROPERLY

spoonef

yah i hear you tyson and thanks fror everything you to tad

Tyson

what pads did you use?

what tad is saying is true. if you dont bed it in properly, you will "warp" your rotors by uneven deposits on the rotor. they can be saved by turning them. some brake pads do this more easily than others, like the notorious ebc greens, which i would never recommend to anyone.

spoonef

i used duralast gold from autozone but you kno its kinda funny how it started doing this after i put the pads on so im thinking i failed doing the brake pads my first time

Tad

they'll probably even out after a while,
if you're lazy you could do a tsuedo bed in,
and just do like 10 hard stops from 60, hard but not hard enuf to lock the wheels,
and do not come to a full stop or use ur brakes between runs.

will might lessen it.

but best thing to do would be to resurface the rotors

G"UNIT

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by philosofy1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sounds like warped rotors. just replace them. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Tad

it's not warped rotors,
just cuz it SOUNDS like warped rotors doesnt mean that it is.
according to stoptech 90% of the time it is theproblem i'm mentioning. and rarely is actually warped rotors

and if you replace the rotors you HAVE to get new pads as well.

Randolphjo

Since you noticed the problem soon after you changed your brake pads, then check that the caliper bolts are properly tightened. Be advised, if it was loose, then the longer you drive it that way, the more damage it is going to do to other parts.

My lady drove her Civic with complaints of vibration during braking at speed and then a couple of months later - the clunking noise. I just happened to take a ride with her in her car and when I made the first braking at around 30MPH, the clunk was loud, the steering wheel shook violently back and forth - just like a warped rotor would. I asked her how long this had been going on, and she said it started three months before (the vibration) but got progressively worse. The clunking started a couple months after the vibration first started and it also got progressively worse.

In the end, it turned out that a shop I used to install front Power Slot rotors did not fully tighten the right front brake caliper. By the time the problem was correctly diagnosed, other suspension parts had become damaged as a result of the increasingly violent shaking when braking. All of the damaged parts (including suspension bushings) were replaced, the OEM rotors reinstalled - most importantly the loose front right caliper was correctly seated and tightened, and it was back to smooth braking again and no more clunking. By the time all was said and done, the "loose" rotor bolt ended up costing me over $600 in repairs.

Whatever the problem is, fix it now. It won't get better on its own and will only get worse if you continue to drive it with this problem. You can check that the caliper is correctly positioned and the bolts correctly tightened. It's also an easy procedure to check the disk runout (checking for warpage) if you have the tools and space (which I don't).

Many reputable brake shops will pull your wheels and check out your brake system for free - the disk runout too. I highly recommend you locate a brake shop that offers a free comprehensive brake system evaluation and let them check your brakes out. Of course if they do the repairs it will cost you but if you choose to do them yourself, then you will know what the problem is - or isn't. I just went through all of this so I'm speaking from recent experience. Good luck!

JR

waterbee

I have the same problem, How do you fix your car???

Thanks,
Bee

Tyson

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tad &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">it's not warped rotors,
just cuz it SOUNDS like warped rotors doesnt mean that it is.
according to stoptech 90% of the time it is theproblem i'm mentioning. and rarely is actually warped rotors

and if you replace the rotors you HAVE to get new pads as well.</TD></TR></TABLE>

dude, warped rotors = extra thick deposits on rotors. it means the runout on the rotor is out of spec, the surface is warped.

waterbee

So it is not related to the Steering rack mount bushing.

??

Tyson

if the car is "shaking violently", then its MORE than JUST "warped rotors".

in my particular case, my steering rack bushing was totally in need of replacement. as any 10+ year old car would.

warped rotors should NOT make your car shake violently. it may be the CAUSE of the vibration, but if everything is tight on your car, its just a mild pulsing.

i just have particular issue because ppl like to regurgitate technical info that "its not warped rotors", its uneven brake deposits. same thing in my book. you solve the problem by getting the rotor turned or replacing it, and break in your pads better next time.

waterbee

Will a caliber cause the problem? The car run good at high speed but when braking the steering wheel shake left and right.

I also, heard noise from the wheel area when the car on low speed 10 mph....wheel bearing ?

Bee

Tyson

steering rack bushing.

SlapSmak

http://stoptech.com/whitepaper...h.htm

Tad

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tyson &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">dude, warped rotors = extra thick deposits on rotors. it means the runout on the rotor is out of spec, the surface is warped.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I guess you could say that,
but you know as well as I that when most people say/think warped rotors,
they think of the shape of the rotor being wobbly..

like if you torqued em the lugs down in some crazy pattern or something..