blkdoutteg

I changed my brakes from ABS to non ABS, ran all new 3/8" SS braided lines (except to the right rear, that is still a stock line) and the car does not stop nearly like it used to.

About my complete brakes setup:
- new power brake booster
- new master cylinder
- changed the 4040 prop valves 3 times
- bled the brakes over a dozen times always running new DOT4 fluid through
- as stated above, all new 3/8" stainless steel braided lines from the prop valve to every caliper and master cylinder lines.

What could be causing my brakes to not stop, the pedal feel is like I am standing on them for dear life in order to slow down...normally if someone pressed with the force I am pressing down (to the floor), the car would screech to a halt.

Does anyone know why the brakes would fail to stop me? Or what could cause them to be to the floor all the time?

Normally, I would think it is brakes unbled or air in the lines that would cause them to go to the floor, but I even re-bled them last night, went through 2.5 quarts of DOT4 brake fluid.
The pedal travels a good 3 or 4 inches with nothing then gets incredibly hard to press and from there need to stand on them to even remotely stop.

This is the only thing keeping me from driving a car I have fully built.
Full build log to come soon when I have time after I figure out the brakes!

Any and all help is incredibly appreciated!

Thanks,

Matt

v4lu3s

3/8" inside diameter lines? Isn't that rather HUGE compared to the stock line size? It sounds like your master cylinder is designed for stock diameter lines and cannot move enough volume to engage your brakes properly.

blkdoutteg

Ah *****, sorry I meant 3/16" brake lines

theYBLEGAL

Is the brake booster getting vacuum? Got a check valve maybe the wrong direction?

How are you bleeding? I recommend a hose off the calipers bleed nipple submerged in a second brake fluid container.

Does the handbrake work?

Fresh brakes sometimes need bed in before they bite well.

blkdoutteg

I will check the vacuum from the intake manifold to booster when I get home today...the idle runs fine though, which makes me think it is not that, but good suggestion none the less.

I bleed the brakes using the Motive power brake bleeder kit: http://m.summitracing.com/parts/mvp-...0nDRoCAFTw_wcB

I have used this Many times in the past with no problems.

The brakes themselves (pads/rotors/calipers) are not brand new, they have been used since before I changed the lines

blkdoutteg

Also, yes the handbrake works with no issues

theYBLEGAL

Best of luck. I can assure you that the stainless lines are not playing bad joojoo with you lol. I have full stainless braided from BMC to calipers as well, although I went with an adjustable ****, so I can adjust front/rear brake bias...

blkdoutteg

I have a wildwood proportioning valve that I could adjust, but I feel like I shouldn't need to install that.

blkdoutteg

Update: checked the vacuum line and the check valve was pointed the wrong direction. Have not checked it or taken it out yet thanks to working on weekends, but will soon.
Thanks theYBLEGAL for the suggestion!

blkdoutteg

Found out the check valve is completely blocked...switched the line and still nothing, pulled the hose off the booster, nothing, pulled the hose off of the intake manifold, BOOM engine RPM jumped!
Check valve blocked.

theYBLEGAL

Awesome.

Good job. Know from experiance, without vac, a booster is hard as hell to stop a car with

blkdoutteg

Do you know the honda part number by chance for that check valve?

blkdoutteg

Nevermind, I found it, part ordered!