KiNGDEE206

iTrader: (1)

So I ought gc Koni used and guy didnt have anything but those 2 plus gc hats
99 ex
If u bought the gc Koni new, did the gc include a wrench tool that adjusts the coil over height? Or do u just use ur hand or something? And is there wrench special? Or basically any common one can adjust it?

Mines stuck as I have some random wrench to adjust, would it be smart to use wd-40 oil spray to loosen it? And any tips on removing top hats? As when I use a Allen wrench with one hand, holding strut the other hand, the strut (silver piece) itself twists with the Allen wrench and nut

nub

They use a bolt with an allen head to lock the collar to the sleeve. You have to loosen the bolt to adjust the collar. You shoud be able to turn it be hand. If you want a wrench it's called a spanner wrench. 10-15 bucks.

For the top hat the allen wrench is to hold the shaft still so you can take off the nut.

KiNGDEE206

iTrader: (1)

Totally lost
Allen bolt which is the 2 bolt on top of the whole suspension?
Loosen those 2 and I can adjust sleeve by hand?
E:
gogled a few key words on waht u said, so i shud get a few hex screw thingy and the whole will be somewhere in the ground control sleeve itself. say i use a spanner wrench, is it ANY spanner wrench or a GC specific? i got a spanner wrench from skunk2 sleeves and tried using that, but the GC sleeve wont budge ;/

now how bout to remove the 2 screws that must be removed by using a allen wrench OR a very deep socket thing? (size 14 i think?)
wen i use 1 hand to hold onto the bottom of the strut, and other hand to unscrew the screw w/ the allen wrench the strut(silver bar that goes up and down into the koni struts itself) spins with the screws, any help on that part also?

nub

Your asking about two different things and your post almost makes me not want to reply. Let's break it out into two questions, A and B.

A) To adjust the coil over. The colloar (threads up and down the sleeve to adjust the spring) has a split in it. There is a bolt that goes throught the collar at the split. When the bolt is tightened it draws the split closed pinching the collar to the sleeve so it can't move. You have to loosen the bolt so the split opens allowing the collar to rotate. Look at it. It's plain as day.

B) Removing the top hat. The assembly needs to be removed from the vehicle. There is a single nut that holds the top hat in place. The silver thing you keep mentioning that is spinning is the shaft of the strut. The end of the shaft where it goes through the top hat is treaded and has a nut on it. This is the nut you need to remove. The very end or tip of the shaft should either have flats on it for a wrench or a female hex to insert an allen wrench. Which ever the case you use the the appropriate wrench to hold the shaft from rotating while using a wrench to loosen and remove the nut.

accorse07

I feel a broken/bruised ankle story developing.

KiNGDEE206

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for ur help!
My old Koni yellow didn't have that small socket like a size 8 or whatever and the big 2x screws so I was confused

Thanks for all your help!

Reliable1

I believe it's an 6, 7 or 8mm hex. I'm 95% sure it's an 8mm hex.

You loosen hex bolt that holds the collar in place, and you should be able to turn it by hand like KiNGDEE206 said.

Mine were stubborn sometimes and I'd have to spray a lubricant around the threads. WD-40 is not the best solution.

PatrickGSR94

iTrader: (1)

Koni Sport shocks use two thin jam nuts to hold the shock piston in the top hat, and I believe they are 19mm. Also the very top of the shaft (where the adjusting tab pokes out) is machined to a hex shape, I believe for an 8mm wrench. Use a 19mm wrench on the jam nuts, and an 8mm wrench to hold the shock piston while you loosen the jam nuts.

stumpyf4

1) Jack up the corner you're trying to adjust to take the load off the collar. You can't turn the collar with the weight of the vehicle on it.
2) Take off the wheel
3) Loosen the collar screw, believe its a 1/4" Allen wrench
4) Turn the collar by hand
5) Retighten the collar screw

Anti seize under the screw and under the collar would be a good idea.

PatrickGSR94

iTrader: (1)

I used to adjust my GC's by jacking up the corner JUST enough to get the load off the spring. Tire didn't have to come off, thank goodness because it was already a PITA enough as it was.

KiNGDEE206

iTrader: (1)

ok so i found the ##'s on my springs

front:
0800.250.0400
rear:
0700.250.0400
what spring rates? i assume 400 each?, and if so is that bad??

TunerN00b

400 lbs/in spring rates, yes.

That's exactly what I have on my GSR. Expect a firm, but still streetable, ride quality (though my wife would disagree and claims to need a sports bra to ride in the car). That is a natural frequency higher than any production car in the rear. As with all subjective things, YMMV.

Libertariat

Pics of wife or it didn't happen.



I'm really looking at upgrading to 500lb front/rear soon. 350/350 is simply too soft and 500lbs is my only short-term option right now.

PatrickGSR94

iTrader: (1)

Man, and I thought 380/450 was horrible for DD, back end was just way too stiff.

mechanix619

I'm currently at 380/350 but was considering a 450 rear but now have considered 450 front.

Libertariat

Unless it's a race car, having stiffer suspension in the front makes the car more neutral/understeer happy which is safer for people who don't know how to drive.

Which is pretty much everyone.

PatrickGSR94

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, if I had to do it again I'd probably do 400 or 450 up front, and possibly as low as 250 in the rear.

Libertariat

350/350 is very tolerable on the road. I definitely feel like I wouldn't scrpa my oil pan, header, and exhaust as much if I had 450-550lbs up front instead.

mechanix619

If I remember correctly you're currently running GSRf/ITRr?


I definitely need something a little more stiff up front, I'm at two finger gap, I still bottom out on the freeway if I catch a dip.

PatrickGSR94

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, OEM springs with the Koni perches dropped down.

hwyix

iTrader: (1)

KiNGDEE206

iTrader: (1)

so am i suppose to feel it being pretty bouncey?

my H&r springs werent bouncy as this ground control's
its depressing

TunerN00b

Increase shock damping until it stop being bouncy. That's the whole point of having adjustable shocks, to dial them in to the spring rates...

Libertariat

I was totally kidding, but anyways.

OP:, like Tunern00b said, dial the shocks to see what that does to the bounciness. It's also feasible you bought a blown shock or two.