I fixed my ABS leak for $1.57 SOOOO EASY
09-19-2004, 09:05 PM
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I fixed my ABS leak for $1.57 SOOOO EASY
There are a couple of posts on here about fixing the leak from the ABS unit by replacing the modulator O-ring. I did it yesterday! It was sooooo easy. I didn't even remove the brake lines. All I did was undo the wiring, took out the bolts holding the bracket to the unibody, propped up the ABS unit so I could get underneath it, and I replaced the O-ring without a problem. So far so good, and NO MORE LEAKS.
My local repair shop said they would have no idea on how to go about fixing the ABS, and sent me to Honda/Acura. I found some postings, did it in about 1.5 hrs and SAVED A TON OF MONEY
My local repair shop said they would have no idea on how to go about fixing the ABS, and sent me to Honda/Acura. I found some postings, did it in about 1.5 hrs and SAVED A TON OF MONEY
09-19-2004, 09:49 PM
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09-19-2004, 10:03 PM
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Re: I fixed my ABS leak for $1.57 SOOOO EASY (iH8RICERZ)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by iH8RICERZ »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sorry..i'm a noob when it comes to abs stuff...but which o ring were you referring to?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Part #23: 57072-ST5-003 O-RING (P5)
This is a problem on 94-97 integras. If you're throwing a code 13 or 18 (high pressure leaks), replacing the O-ring is a common fix.
Part #23: 57072-ST5-003 O-RING (P5)
This is a problem on 94-97 integras. If you're throwing a code 13 or 18 (high pressure leaks), replacing the O-ring is a common fix.
09-20-2004, 06:07 AM
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Re: I fixed my ABS leak for $1.57 SOOOO EASY (95 integra)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95 integra »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so it isnt pressurized and do you just take a rachet to the nut on top of the big brown can to take it off?</TD></TR></TABLE>NO!!
Mounting bolts are underneath, #4. That big bolt on top will release the N2 pressure, turning the accumulator into an expensive paperweight...
Mounting bolts are underneath, #4. That big bolt on top will release the N2 pressure, turning the accumulator into an expensive paperweight...
09-20-2004, 06:46 AM
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Re: I fixed my ABS leak for $1.57 SOOOO EASY (JimBlake)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JimBlake »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">NO!!
Mounting bolts are underneath, #4. That big bolt on top will release the N2 pressure, turning the accumulator into an expensive paperweight...
</TD></TR></TABLE>
that's why that nut on top has epoxy around it, at least it does on mine anyway.
Mounting bolts are underneath, #4. That big bolt on top will release the N2 pressure, turning the accumulator into an expensive paperweight...
</TD></TR></TABLE>
that's why that nut on top has epoxy around it, at least it does on mine anyway.
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09-20-2004, 08:21 AM
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Re: (SpoodgeDc2)
ok heres my problem...i have a 95ls and ever since last week or so, almost everytime i start the car unless the car is warm already, i hear this loud buzzing noise, sounds like its comming from the abs, and ive noticed that i am leaking something. Would replacing this O ring solve my problem?? thanks guys 
09-20-2004, 08:40 AM
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Re: I fixed my ABS leak for $1.57 SOOOO EASY (gogordo)
The problem I had with my ABS, was that that buzzing noise would go off for awhile, and then the ABS light would turn on. I put more brake fluid in it and the ABS light would go off. BUT, after a few weeks, enough ABS would leak out and the light would go back on. It got so bad that it ate away one of the welds in my unibody, SO FIX THE LEAK if you have one.
Here is what I used as a guide to replace my O-ring on the bottom of the accumulator. This is a collection of excerpts from other postings. HOWEVER, I DID NOT DETACH THE BRAKE LINES, WHICH MADE THE JOB SO MUCH EASIER.
Honda Part Number:
638550 57072-ST5-003
Description:
W-O-RING
List: $1.42
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=205285
The "buzzing" sound you hear when you first start your car is the ABS system pressurizing. This only pertains to '94-'97 Integras, because they have a different ABS system from the '98-'01 Integras and '97 Type-Rs. The '94-'97 Integra's ABS system has a seperate brake fluid reservior (#3 in diagram). The ABS brake fluid should be bleed and flushed periodically to remove air from the system. If you hear the buzzing for more than a couple of seconds (~2-5 sec.), this is a good indication that the ABS system needs to be bleed. Now if you hear the buzzing for ~60 seconds and then it shuts off and the ABS light comes on, it means that the ABS system could not be pressurized and the ABS has been disabled. The main cause is a small rubber O-ring (#23) which seals the brake fluid ACCUMULATOR (#2) which is under extremely high pressure. If this O-ring fails brake fluid will leak out and you will see it under the ABS module.
Here is a diagram of the '94-'97 Integra ABS module:
This reason that I know about this is because the O-ring on my '94 GS-R failed after about 1 year and it was replaced under warranty. My wifes '96 Honda Odyssey also has the same ABS system and it's ABS light came on and I recently replaced the failed O-ring (which cost me ~$1.50 at my local Honda dealership).
I did replace the O-ring myself. I did purchase a set of flare end wrenches (at Sears for $22) to disconnect the 6 brake lines which connect to the ABS modulator. The ABS unit needs to be removed from the car to replace the O-ring since the bolts which attach to the accumulator are on the bottom of the ABS unit. The O-ring is very easy to replace. After I replaced the O-ring, I just reinstalled the ABS unit in the car and hooked up the brake lines, the electrical connectors and filled the ABS brake reservior with brake fluid. I did have to purge the ABS system of air and bleed the brake lines since the brake lines had been disconnected. The ABS system has worked fine ever since.
However, you MUST torque everything - every essential bolt - to spec. Don't rely on what "just feels right" cause if you don't, you will leak. USE A TORQUE WRENCH. I should actually change my first set of steps to reflect that...
Check the TSB's another guy linked in my thread also. If you have an American-built 95 Accord (or something like that), you have a completely different problem than I do also...you might have a bad seal AS WELL AN improperly torqued together ABS unit [modulator].
Ok. So did the fix this weekend. Very-very gratifying and straightforward. Checking Monday night...no leaks that I can detect 48 hours later. Looks good and dry and no apparent fluid leakage from the accumulator/unit.
Tools needed: TORQUE WRENCH, 10mm flare nut wrench, 10mm open/closed ender, big bottle of Valvoline SynPower Dot 3/4 brake fluid, arrowhead water bottle (empty and dry of course), 8 inches of clear/clean aquarium tubing, new $1.51 Honda O-ring, torque wrench (for the wheels), metric socket/rachet set. Loosey head sockey extension
(not exactly need but will make life a whole lot easier with one of the 12mm brachet bolts).
These are my observations in the approximately 3 hours it took me to do this.
1) First off, there is no procedure for removing the unit in the Haynes manual. But don't let that dissuade you. It's easy - four 12mm bolts are all that connect the unit brackets to the unibody. Started by disconnecting the 6 brake lines with the flare nut wrench. Don't even try it without this wrench cause you might screw up the nuts. Be ready for brake fluid to start seeping out...slowly though. Then disconneted the 4 12mm bolts...good clearance/easy...used an 8inch extension on some of them. You will need to unbracket the windshield filler tube and move aside the Powersteering pump reservior for max clearance (esp. for loosening the brake lines).
2) Removing the unit...took some manuvering but was doable once the windshied filler and PS bottle was moved aside. Here, it helps to call your friend/brother and say "hey-hold that". Was careful not to torgue the ABS reservior/ very-very gingerly removed the unit. Kind of a heavy mo'fo...about 20 lbs...make sure to not hold it by the reservior or the accumulator...
3) Once the unit itself was out, inspecting showed evidence of old fluid making crud tracks away from the accumulator ABS cylinder base. Looking at the bottom of the unit was the 4 (?) plugs that were spoken of earlier. Here, it did not seem like anything was leaking (but time will tell!).
4) Removed two 10mm nuts at the base of the unit; be prepared for a little bit of brake fluid spray from the cylinder depressurizing...caught me offgaurd! Anyway, two bolts came off easy enough.
5) Inspecting the potentially offending o-ring: visually was not too different from the new one but feeling it in your fingers, was very evident it is not as spring or thick as the new one: a likely culprit. I took it off with a dental pick and easily slide on the new one. Cleaned all contact surfaces and reassembled unit. Used slightly firmer than 'wrist' tight.
6) Installation was the reverse of removal - YOU MUST TORQUE EVERYTHING TO SPEC OR YOU WILL LEAK - SEE A TSB LINK in later threads to FIND THE SPECS; reconnecting those brake lines took a while though...you can play with them front and back though so don't be afraid to yank them a bit (gently!) to get the right orientation into the ABS unit. Tightened lines firmly but only 'wrist' tight: no need for He-man here.
7) Bled the ABS unit. Then bled the brake lines following the RR, LF, RF, LR order. Then bled the ABS unit again (seemed to help sponginess for some reason!).
8) Test drove and then carefully hosed out the ABS unit area with a light spray of water to remove all that dripped brake fluid. I had used a rag to catch most seepage while i was working on the unit.
And that was it! Pretty straightforward! Just be careful! If you can bleed brakes, you can do this.... sorry about no pics, digi cam ran out of juice....
Here is what I used as a guide to replace my O-ring on the bottom of the accumulator. This is a collection of excerpts from other postings. HOWEVER, I DID NOT DETACH THE BRAKE LINES, WHICH MADE THE JOB SO MUCH EASIER.
Honda Part Number:
638550 57072-ST5-003
Description:
W-O-RING
List: $1.42
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=205285
The "buzzing" sound you hear when you first start your car is the ABS system pressurizing. This only pertains to '94-'97 Integras, because they have a different ABS system from the '98-'01 Integras and '97 Type-Rs. The '94-'97 Integra's ABS system has a seperate brake fluid reservior (#3 in diagram). The ABS brake fluid should be bleed and flushed periodically to remove air from the system. If you hear the buzzing for more than a couple of seconds (~2-5 sec.), this is a good indication that the ABS system needs to be bleed. Now if you hear the buzzing for ~60 seconds and then it shuts off and the ABS light comes on, it means that the ABS system could not be pressurized and the ABS has been disabled. The main cause is a small rubber O-ring (#23) which seals the brake fluid ACCUMULATOR (#2) which is under extremely high pressure. If this O-ring fails brake fluid will leak out and you will see it under the ABS module.
Here is a diagram of the '94-'97 Integra ABS module:
This reason that I know about this is because the O-ring on my '94 GS-R failed after about 1 year and it was replaced under warranty. My wifes '96 Honda Odyssey also has the same ABS system and it's ABS light came on and I recently replaced the failed O-ring (which cost me ~$1.50 at my local Honda dealership).
I did replace the O-ring myself. I did purchase a set of flare end wrenches (at Sears for $22) to disconnect the 6 brake lines which connect to the ABS modulator. The ABS unit needs to be removed from the car to replace the O-ring since the bolts which attach to the accumulator are on the bottom of the ABS unit. The O-ring is very easy to replace. After I replaced the O-ring, I just reinstalled the ABS unit in the car and hooked up the brake lines, the electrical connectors and filled the ABS brake reservior with brake fluid. I did have to purge the ABS system of air and bleed the brake lines since the brake lines had been disconnected. The ABS system has worked fine ever since.
However, you MUST torque everything - every essential bolt - to spec. Don't rely on what "just feels right" cause if you don't, you will leak. USE A TORQUE WRENCH. I should actually change my first set of steps to reflect that...
Check the TSB's another guy linked in my thread also. If you have an American-built 95 Accord (or something like that), you have a completely different problem than I do also...you might have a bad seal AS WELL AN improperly torqued together ABS unit [modulator].
Ok. So did the fix this weekend. Very-very gratifying and straightforward. Checking Monday night...no leaks that I can detect 48 hours later. Looks good and dry and no apparent fluid leakage from the accumulator/unit.
Tools needed: TORQUE WRENCH, 10mm flare nut wrench, 10mm open/closed ender, big bottle of Valvoline SynPower Dot 3/4 brake fluid, arrowhead water bottle (empty and dry of course), 8 inches of clear/clean aquarium tubing, new $1.51 Honda O-ring, torque wrench (for the wheels), metric socket/rachet set. Loosey head sockey extension
(not exactly need but will make life a whole lot easier with one of the 12mm brachet bolts).
These are my observations in the approximately 3 hours it took me to do this.
1) First off, there is no procedure for removing the unit in the Haynes manual. But don't let that dissuade you. It's easy - four 12mm bolts are all that connect the unit brackets to the unibody. Started by disconnecting the 6 brake lines with the flare nut wrench. Don't even try it without this wrench cause you might screw up the nuts. Be ready for brake fluid to start seeping out...slowly though. Then disconneted the 4 12mm bolts...good clearance/easy...used an 8inch extension on some of them. You will need to unbracket the windshield filler tube and move aside the Powersteering pump reservior for max clearance (esp. for loosening the brake lines).
2) Removing the unit...took some manuvering but was doable once the windshied filler and PS bottle was moved aside. Here, it helps to call your friend/brother and say "hey-hold that". Was careful not to torgue the ABS reservior/ very-very gingerly removed the unit. Kind of a heavy mo'fo...about 20 lbs...make sure to not hold it by the reservior or the accumulator...
3) Once the unit itself was out, inspecting showed evidence of old fluid making crud tracks away from the accumulator ABS cylinder base. Looking at the bottom of the unit was the 4 (?) plugs that were spoken of earlier. Here, it did not seem like anything was leaking (but time will tell!).
4) Removed two 10mm nuts at the base of the unit; be prepared for a little bit of brake fluid spray from the cylinder depressurizing...caught me offgaurd! Anyway, two bolts came off easy enough.
5) Inspecting the potentially offending o-ring: visually was not too different from the new one but feeling it in your fingers, was very evident it is not as spring or thick as the new one: a likely culprit. I took it off with a dental pick and easily slide on the new one. Cleaned all contact surfaces and reassembled unit. Used slightly firmer than 'wrist' tight.
6) Installation was the reverse of removal - YOU MUST TORQUE EVERYTHING TO SPEC OR YOU WILL LEAK - SEE A TSB LINK in later threads to FIND THE SPECS; reconnecting those brake lines took a while though...you can play with them front and back though so don't be afraid to yank them a bit (gently!) to get the right orientation into the ABS unit. Tightened lines firmly but only 'wrist' tight: no need for He-man here.
7) Bled the ABS unit. Then bled the brake lines following the RR, LF, RF, LR order. Then bled the ABS unit again (seemed to help sponginess for some reason!).
8) Test drove and then carefully hosed out the ABS unit area with a light spray of water to remove all that dripped brake fluid. I had used a rag to catch most seepage while i was working on the unit.
And that was it! Pretty straightforward! Just be careful! If you can bleed brakes, you can do this.... sorry about no pics, digi cam ran out of juice....
09-20-2004, 08:42 AM
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Re: I fixed my ABS leak for $1.57 SOOOO EASY (gogordo)
thanks alot bro...looks like its time to change the O ring....because what u wrote is the exact problem im having...thanks
09-20-2004, 08:43 AM
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Re: I fixed my ABS leak for $1.57 SOOOO EASY (gogordo)
Check out the diagram of the ABS unit above. The part number I listed is for #23 in that diagram. Simple fix for the biggest pain in the ***. If I was a mechanic, I would make a killing off of doing this fix.
09-20-2004, 08:59 AM
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Re: I fixed my ABS leak for $1.57 SOOOO EASY (gogordo)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gogordo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Check out the diagram of the ABS unit above. The part number I listed is for #23 in that diagram. Simple fix for the biggest pain in the ***. If I was a mechanic, I would make a killing off of doing this fix.</TD></TR></TABLE>
ok..thanks bro...ur post is gonna save me alot of $$$
ok..thanks bro...ur post is gonna save me alot of $$$
09-20-2004, 09:45 AM
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Re: I fixed my ABS leak for $1.57 SOOOO EASY (gogordo)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gogordo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Oh... and I didn't torque anything (but keep in mind I didn't take off the brake lines).</TD></TR></TABLE>
How did you do it w/o removing the brake lines? Don't you have to lift up the whole unit to get to the o-ring? Seems like you would risk bending/breaking the brake lines if you don't disconnect them.
How did you do it w/o removing the brake lines? Don't you have to lift up the whole unit to get to the o-ring? Seems like you would risk bending/breaking the brake lines if you don't disconnect them.
09-20-2004, 10:52 AM
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Re: I fixed my ABS leak for $1.57 SOOOO EASY (PatrickGSR94)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PatrickGSR94 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
How did you do it w/o removing the brake lines? Don't you have to lift up the whole unit to get to the o-ring? Seems like you would risk bending/breaking the brake lines if you don't disconnect them.</TD></TR></TABLE>
good point...how did u do it??
How did you do it w/o removing the brake lines? Don't you have to lift up the whole unit to get to the o-ring? Seems like you would risk bending/breaking the brake lines if you don't disconnect them.</TD></TR></TABLE>
good point...how did u do it??
09-20-2004, 11:59 AM
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Re: I fixed my ABS leak for $1.57 SOOOO EASY (gogordo)
Ive been having the same problem. Sounds like this is worth a shot. I'd like to know too how to do it w/o taking off the brake lines. thanks
09-20-2004, 01:32 PM
#18
Re: I fixed my ABS leak for $1.57 SOOOO EASY (timmy8151)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by timmy8151 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
This is a problem on 94-97 integras. If you're throwing a code 13 or 18 (high pressure leaks), replacing the O-ring is a common fix.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I have a code 18 if I remember correctly(high pressure leak anyway) but I dont have any fluid leaking from under my abs unit. Whenever I crank the car it buzzes, usually the abs light turns off(sometimes it stays on) and then the abs will buzz periodically while im driving. Im probably going to replace the o-ring anyway, but if Im not leaking fluid its probably not the problem?
This is a problem on 94-97 integras. If you're throwing a code 13 or 18 (high pressure leaks), replacing the O-ring is a common fix.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I have a code 18 if I remember correctly(high pressure leak anyway) but I dont have any fluid leaking from under my abs unit. Whenever I crank the car it buzzes, usually the abs light turns off(sometimes it stays on) and then the abs will buzz periodically while im driving. Im probably going to replace the o-ring anyway, but if Im not leaking fluid its probably not the problem?
09-20-2004, 03:38 PM
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Re: I fixed my ABS leak for $1.57 SOOOO EASY (gogordo)
Yeah I did risk bending and breaking the lines, but the flare wrench I had was stripping the nuts, and I was eager to finish the job. The lines attach with a plastic mount right behind the ABS unit. I detached the plastic mount and proped up the ABS unit with a metal bar. The brake lines do have some free play, so I worked with that. I put a mirror under the ABS unit so I could see the bottom, but you could just feel for the right bolts. Oh, and watch out for that spray from the accumulator and make sure you spray everything down with water so the brake fluid doesnt rip off your paint!
07-25-2005, 10:44 AM
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Re: I fixed my ABS leak for $1.57 SOOOO EASY (gogordo)
6) Installation was the reverse of removal - YOU MUST TORQUE EVERYTHING TO SPEC OR YOU WILL LEAK - SEE A TSB LINK in later threads to FIND THE SPECS; reconnecting those brake lines took a while though...you can play with them front and back though so don't be afraid to yank them a bit (gently!) to get the right orientation into the ABS unit. Tightened lines firmly but only 'wrist' tight: no need for He-man here.
Q: Can you point it out where to find the "SPEC" from a "TSB LINK"? Need to know what weight (from torque wrench) is needed to apply on "two 10mm nuts" to tighten the accumulator.
7) Bled the ABS unit. Then bled the brake lines following the RR, LF, RF, LR order. Then bled the ABS unit again (seemed to help sponginess for some reason!).
Q: Did you do "bench bleed" first before you do the brake lines' bleeding?
Thanks.
Q: Can you point it out where to find the "SPEC" from a "TSB LINK"? Need to know what weight (from torque wrench) is needed to apply on "two 10mm nuts" to tighten the accumulator.
7) Bled the ABS unit. Then bled the brake lines following the RR, LF, RF, LR order. Then bled the ABS unit again (seemed to help sponginess for some reason!).
Q: Did you do "bench bleed" first before you do the brake lines' bleeding?
Thanks.
09-13-2013, 12:03 PM
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Re: I fixed my ABS leak for $1.57 SOOOO EASY
bumping up.. sorry i forgot my old log in info so i had to make a new account...
anyways. my question is, my abs light started coming on a few months back for high pressure leak. and im thinking this could be the cause. but is any body who doing this o-ring noticing that their brakes slowly go to the floor? or is this simply a light on the dash the reason why this o ring was replaced. i couldn't care less about the light. im just concerned that it slowly going to the floor as maybe another problem and not this o ring.
and no its not the master cylinder because its been doing this for sometime and recently iv had the master cylinder go bad and leak all inside of my floor mat and had it replaced. yet still slowly going to the floor. and also not air in the lines bc i hant had any other brake work done....
can any body help me out here? thanks in advance!
anyways. my question is, my abs light started coming on a few months back for high pressure leak. and im thinking this could be the cause. but is any body who doing this o-ring noticing that their brakes slowly go to the floor? or is this simply a light on the dash the reason why this o ring was replaced. i couldn't care less about the light. im just concerned that it slowly going to the floor as maybe another problem and not this o ring.
and no its not the master cylinder because its been doing this for sometime and recently iv had the master cylinder go bad and leak all inside of my floor mat and had it replaced. yet still slowly going to the floor. and also not air in the lines bc i hant had any other brake work done....
can any body help me out here? thanks in advance!
06-15-2018, 06:16 PM
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Re: I fixed my ABS leak for $1.57 SOOOO EASY
I know this is a old thread im
new to the forum ,is
there any pictures U can provide I’m more of a need to see ,this article helped helped a lil but jus need some pics if possible some parts where confusing ,I’m haven the same issue 94 teggy start the car it buzzes light turns on it use turn off from tike to time but would eventually jus come back on jus need more clarity on this ,first u said use a flare wrench then u didn’t ? ,how do I bleed the abs idk jus a few questions ,bare with me as this will be my first attempt,so u bled the brakes via brake lines that came out from the abs unit ? ,the clear hose u mentioned ,what’s that for lol again sorry I read the post maybe I missed something but please if u could shine soke
light my way ,there’s no vids anywhere on this ether fmlll
new to the forum ,is
there any pictures U can provide I’m more of a need to see ,this article helped helped a lil but jus need some pics if possible some parts where confusing ,I’m haven the same issue 94 teggy start the car it buzzes light turns on it use turn off from tike to time but would eventually jus come back on jus need more clarity on this ,first u said use a flare wrench then u didn’t ? ,how do I bleed the abs idk jus a few questions ,bare with me as this will be my first attempt,so u bled the brakes via brake lines that came out from the abs unit ? ,the clear hose u mentioned ,what’s that for lol again sorry I read the post maybe I missed something but please if u could shine soke
light my way ,there’s no vids anywhere on this ether fmlll
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