FAQ: Prelude Tune up and Routine Maintenance
08-26-2004, 06:49 PM
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FAQ: Prelude Tune up and Routine Maintenance
I decided to write this after helping another H-T member (via IM) that just bought a used Prelude and wanted to do a tune up.
I will be using a lot of my opinions on what parts I use, etc. But you are more then welcome to add your opinions, just try to do so without creating a flame war.
<U>General Routine Maintenance Items</U>
I recommend changing these when you first buy a vehicle so that YOU know with out a doubt when they were changed.
<U>Oil and Filter </U>
There are many different types of oils available and the scope of this topic is too large too be covered in this write-up. Whether you use regular or synthetic, its up too you to research what will best suit your needs. I personally use Mobil 1 synthetic oil and a lot of other people do as well.
For the filter I use the fram extra guard filter with the Sure grip coating. I have been using them for 6 years now on several different vehicles and have never had a problem. I also love the sure grip coating, IMO it makes a big difference when changing the filter.
Some people recommend using Honda OEM filters, I don't see a point in paying extra for the Honda name. Or going out of my way to drive past AutoZone to the dealer, but to each their own.
<U>Air filter </U>
The air filter can easily be inspected before replacement. If you plan on buying an aftermarket intake it may be more cost effective to just inspect the air filter and (if its in good condition) wait until you buy the new intake. If you are planning on buying an aftermarket intake later on down the road, but need to replace the stock filter I would just buy a paper filter.
As far as the stock drop in, a popular choice is the K&N, it's a one-time purchase
(Reusable after cleaning) and supposedly flows more air. Although I remember seeing/hearing that paper filters flow more air with some negative attributes not associated with K&N. Again, do some research to make your decision (both here on H-T and a google search). I believe I saw this info on PHRTV.
<U>Sparkplugs </U>
From a stock or near stock standpoint, the NGK PZRF6F-11 is the best choice as it is the OEM plug. I personally use the NGK ZRF6F-11 (copper instead of platinum). I would rather change plugs more frequently at a lesser price. Platinum plugs are designed to last longer then copper plugs.
<U>Sparkplug Wires</U>
Again NGK manufactures the OEM spark plug wires, and I recommend using their wires as a replacement. Assuming you have a non forced induction prelude, there is real no need for "performance" wires and/or an upgraded ignition. The NGK's are definitely up to the job and can be found for a reasonable price.
<U>Distributor Cap and Rotor Button</U>
The dist. Cap and rotor button are a consumable maintenance item and should be replaced as part of a tune up. I personally use AutoZone parts for these but many recommend using OEM Honda parts. IMO its just a matter or personal opinion.
<U>Coolant and Hoses</U>
It's a very good idea to drain and flush your radiator when buying a new vehicle. It's another one of those peace of mind things for me. I like knowing it was done and being able to keep track of it. To flush, drain your radiator fluid (cold engine) and put a garden hose in the filler neck. Flush the system with water for a little while. Then re-install the drain **** and re-fill with 50/50 coolant and water.
The hoses don't always need to be changed but I recommend it for peace of mind. A 10.00 dollar hose is a lot cheaper then a warped head. You should be able to find instructions for inspecting hoses if you want to save money. But they are cheap enough that I just replace them. Replace the upper and lower radiator hoses, the heater hose, etc.
<U>Fuel Filter</U>
This is another consumable item that should be replaced. Again I use AutoZone parts for this, but you may want to use an OEM Honda filter. Your choice….
As I recently found out, if you have 5th gen. This is much easier if performed on a lift due to the lower input line from the tank. 4th gens are easily changed, as both lines are on top of the filter.
<U>PCV valve</U>
PCV stands for positive crankcase ventilation, yours may not need replaced but they are only 2.00 and I changed mine for peace of mind when I bought the car.
<U>Transmission Fluid</U>
Your tranny fluid is basically engine oil and breaks down over time just the same
(albeit over a longer period of time). You can use 10w-30 motor oil but I recommend Honda manual tranny fluid or GM synchromesh. If you are unsure what GM synchromesh is do a search. There is a ton of info on it.
<U>Alternator/AC and Power Steering Belts</U>
These can also be inspected before replacement, if they are cracked, frayed, dry rotted. Replace them, I changed both of mine regardless of condition so I could keep track of their replacement intervals.
<U> Maintenance Items too be Inspected</U>
These are items that should be inspected but may not necessarily need changing.
<U>Tires</U>
You should definitely check the tires before you purchase. If you buy from a dealer, don't buy it with bald tires. They are supposed to replace worn items, which is why you pay more for dealer cars then private party vehicles.
Anyway, you want to check tread wear and depth on your tires. Here is a link on checking your tires. Rather then typing another huge paragraph I thought this would be easier.
http://www.csaa.com/global/art....html
<U>Brakes and Rotors</U>
Brakes are another wear item that need to be inspected regularly but only replaced as needed. Here is a simple guide for checking your brakes condition.
http://www.tirerack.com/brakes....html
<U>Engine Gaskets and Seals.</U>
You should go over your engine and inspect all the gaskets and seals. Put the car on jack stands or a lift. Go over the engine and tranny with a fine tooth comb looking for leaks. Any leaks that you find should be addressed as soon as possible. Trust me the problem won't go away or get any better, so fix it before more damage occurs.
<U>Clutch / Brakes / Power Steering fluid and hydraulic Systems:</U>
You should inspect the condition of the fluids and ensure that they aren't excessively dirty. If you have any doubt about their condition they probably need to be replaced.
Also inspect the hydraulic lines for the system, ensuring that there are no leaks.
<U>Timing Belt</U>
This is a very important maintenance item, if the timing belt breaks this will cause serious engine damage. The recommended interval for changing the timing belt is 90,000 miles. Replacing the timing belt before its recommended interval is a wise choice. It is far less expensive to replace the belt than to repair the engine damage that results from the belt breaking.
When checking the belt, inspect for cracks, missing teeth and wear on any of the surfaces. Inspect the cam gears and belts for grease/oil and other deposits. If any of these conditions exist, the belt should be replaced. Again if there is any doubt about the condition of the belt or the last time it was changed you SHOULD change it.
When you change the timing belt you should also replace the water pump, balance belts, etc. I know of at least one online vendor that sells timing belt replacement kits with all the necessary parts. Also if you have an H22 you may also want to consider replacing the auto tensioner with the H23's manual tensioner
<U>Fuel Injectors</U>
This not really an item that can be easily inspected but on a high mileage engine there is a very good chance that they may be slightly clogged. I recently had my injectors professionally cleaned and flow tested. My #3 injector was flowing considerably less and causing a slight misfire / loping idle. ( i had 143k Miles at the time of cleaning)
I sent the injectors to http://www.witchhunter.com , the price was considerably less then RC engineering with the same quality and results. My down time was only about 5 days. I pulled them Sun night, shipped Mon morning and had them back and installed Fri. night.
<U>New Swap</U>
Just a little side topic, if you have recently got a swap or will be getting one there are a few maintenance items that should be addressed while the engine is out of the car.
~ Change the timing belts and related components described above.
~ Inspect gaskets and seals, replace as necessary
~ While the Eng. and tranny are out it would be a good idea to change your clutch and possibly switch too a lightweight flywheel. Also inspect the rear main seal while the flywheel is off
~ You may want to get a hondata intake manifold gasket while the engine is out, installation will be much easier.
I'm done typing for now, if I am wrong about anything, forgot something, etc. Let me know so I can fix it.
I will update and edit the original post as necessary.
Modified by Behan at 11:55 PM 8/26/2004
I will be using a lot of my opinions on what parts I use, etc. But you are more then welcome to add your opinions, just try to do so without creating a flame war.
<U>General Routine Maintenance Items</U>
I recommend changing these when you first buy a vehicle so that YOU know with out a doubt when they were changed.
<U>Oil and Filter </U>
There are many different types of oils available and the scope of this topic is too large too be covered in this write-up. Whether you use regular or synthetic, its up too you to research what will best suit your needs. I personally use Mobil 1 synthetic oil and a lot of other people do as well.
For the filter I use the fram extra guard filter with the Sure grip coating. I have been using them for 6 years now on several different vehicles and have never had a problem. I also love the sure grip coating, IMO it makes a big difference when changing the filter.
Some people recommend using Honda OEM filters, I don't see a point in paying extra for the Honda name. Or going out of my way to drive past AutoZone to the dealer, but to each their own.
<U>Air filter </U>
The air filter can easily be inspected before replacement. If you plan on buying an aftermarket intake it may be more cost effective to just inspect the air filter and (if its in good condition) wait until you buy the new intake. If you are planning on buying an aftermarket intake later on down the road, but need to replace the stock filter I would just buy a paper filter.
As far as the stock drop in, a popular choice is the K&N, it's a one-time purchase
(Reusable after cleaning) and supposedly flows more air. Although I remember seeing/hearing that paper filters flow more air with some negative attributes not associated with K&N. Again, do some research to make your decision (both here on H-T and a google search). I believe I saw this info on PHRTV.
<U>Sparkplugs </U>
From a stock or near stock standpoint, the NGK PZRF6F-11 is the best choice as it is the OEM plug. I personally use the NGK ZRF6F-11 (copper instead of platinum). I would rather change plugs more frequently at a lesser price. Platinum plugs are designed to last longer then copper plugs.
<U>Sparkplug Wires</U>
Again NGK manufactures the OEM spark plug wires, and I recommend using their wires as a replacement. Assuming you have a non forced induction prelude, there is real no need for "performance" wires and/or an upgraded ignition. The NGK's are definitely up to the job and can be found for a reasonable price.
<U>Distributor Cap and Rotor Button</U>
The dist. Cap and rotor button are a consumable maintenance item and should be replaced as part of a tune up. I personally use AutoZone parts for these but many recommend using OEM Honda parts. IMO its just a matter or personal opinion.
<U>Coolant and Hoses</U>
It's a very good idea to drain and flush your radiator when buying a new vehicle. It's another one of those peace of mind things for me. I like knowing it was done and being able to keep track of it. To flush, drain your radiator fluid (cold engine) and put a garden hose in the filler neck. Flush the system with water for a little while. Then re-install the drain **** and re-fill with 50/50 coolant and water.
The hoses don't always need to be changed but I recommend it for peace of mind. A 10.00 dollar hose is a lot cheaper then a warped head. You should be able to find instructions for inspecting hoses if you want to save money. But they are cheap enough that I just replace them. Replace the upper and lower radiator hoses, the heater hose, etc.
<U>Fuel Filter</U>
This is another consumable item that should be replaced. Again I use AutoZone parts for this, but you may want to use an OEM Honda filter. Your choice….
As I recently found out, if you have 5th gen. This is much easier if performed on a lift due to the lower input line from the tank. 4th gens are easily changed, as both lines are on top of the filter.
<U>PCV valve</U>
PCV stands for positive crankcase ventilation, yours may not need replaced but they are only 2.00 and I changed mine for peace of mind when I bought the car.
<U>Transmission Fluid</U>
Your tranny fluid is basically engine oil and breaks down over time just the same
(albeit over a longer period of time). You can use 10w-30 motor oil but I recommend Honda manual tranny fluid or GM synchromesh. If you are unsure what GM synchromesh is do a search. There is a ton of info on it.
<U>Alternator/AC and Power Steering Belts</U>
These can also be inspected before replacement, if they are cracked, frayed, dry rotted. Replace them, I changed both of mine regardless of condition so I could keep track of their replacement intervals.
<U> Maintenance Items too be Inspected</U>
These are items that should be inspected but may not necessarily need changing.
<U>Tires</U>
You should definitely check the tires before you purchase. If you buy from a dealer, don't buy it with bald tires. They are supposed to replace worn items, which is why you pay more for dealer cars then private party vehicles.
Anyway, you want to check tread wear and depth on your tires. Here is a link on checking your tires. Rather then typing another huge paragraph I thought this would be easier.
http://www.csaa.com/global/art....html
<U>Brakes and Rotors</U>
Brakes are another wear item that need to be inspected regularly but only replaced as needed. Here is a simple guide for checking your brakes condition.
http://www.tirerack.com/brakes....html
<U>Engine Gaskets and Seals.</U>
You should go over your engine and inspect all the gaskets and seals. Put the car on jack stands or a lift. Go over the engine and tranny with a fine tooth comb looking for leaks. Any leaks that you find should be addressed as soon as possible. Trust me the problem won't go away or get any better, so fix it before more damage occurs.
<U>Clutch / Brakes / Power Steering fluid and hydraulic Systems:</U>
You should inspect the condition of the fluids and ensure that they aren't excessively dirty. If you have any doubt about their condition they probably need to be replaced.
Also inspect the hydraulic lines for the system, ensuring that there are no leaks.
<U>Timing Belt</U>
This is a very important maintenance item, if the timing belt breaks this will cause serious engine damage. The recommended interval for changing the timing belt is 90,000 miles. Replacing the timing belt before its recommended interval is a wise choice. It is far less expensive to replace the belt than to repair the engine damage that results from the belt breaking.
When checking the belt, inspect for cracks, missing teeth and wear on any of the surfaces. Inspect the cam gears and belts for grease/oil and other deposits. If any of these conditions exist, the belt should be replaced. Again if there is any doubt about the condition of the belt or the last time it was changed you SHOULD change it.
When you change the timing belt you should also replace the water pump, balance belts, etc. I know of at least one online vendor that sells timing belt replacement kits with all the necessary parts. Also if you have an H22 you may also want to consider replacing the auto tensioner with the H23's manual tensioner
<U>Fuel Injectors</U>
This not really an item that can be easily inspected but on a high mileage engine there is a very good chance that they may be slightly clogged. I recently had my injectors professionally cleaned and flow tested. My #3 injector was flowing considerably less and causing a slight misfire / loping idle. ( i had 143k Miles at the time of cleaning)
I sent the injectors to http://www.witchhunter.com , the price was considerably less then RC engineering with the same quality and results. My down time was only about 5 days. I pulled them Sun night, shipped Mon morning and had them back and installed Fri. night.
<U>New Swap</U>
Just a little side topic, if you have recently got a swap or will be getting one there are a few maintenance items that should be addressed while the engine is out of the car.
~ Change the timing belts and related components described above.
~ Inspect gaskets and seals, replace as necessary
~ While the Eng. and tranny are out it would be a good idea to change your clutch and possibly switch too a lightweight flywheel. Also inspect the rear main seal while the flywheel is off
~ You may want to get a hondata intake manifold gasket while the engine is out, installation will be much easier.
I'm done typing for now, if I am wrong about anything, forgot something, etc. Let me know so I can fix it.
I will update and edit the original post as necessary.
Modified by Behan at 11:55 PM 8/26/2004
08-26-2004, 08:12 PM
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Re: FAQ: Prelude Tune up and Routine Maintenance (Behan)
I can't say that I can add more than that right now, but I will add my .02 cents on the importance of the Timing Belt.
If you buy a Lude over 100k miles, replace the belt. Just last week I dealt with an accord and a 4th gen Prelude that both jumped time because the owners bought the car within the last year and assumed the belt had been changed. Well, they hadn't, and now they're paying the price.
Also, never EVER replace a belt without replacing the tensioner.
Ok, rant done. Carry on.
If you buy a Lude over 100k miles, replace the belt. Just last week I dealt with an accord and a 4th gen Prelude that both jumped time because the owners bought the car within the last year and assumed the belt had been changed. Well, they hadn't, and now they're paying the price.
Also, never EVER replace a belt without replacing the tensioner.
Ok, rant done. Carry on.
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