JDM Prelude headlight casing how to repair crack & seal
06-02-2004, 04:30 PM
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How to Repair your bad seal/condensation filled lights & repair a cracked lens in the process
<u>How to Repair your bad seal/condensation filled lights & repair a cracked lens in the process</u>
I heard you could do this in the oven but I found a much simpler safer way to open the casing without damaging it. The oven method leaves the case very hot and difficult to work with so used an alternative in the form of a 1kw hairdryer.
Tools Required:
*Small Flathead screwdriver
*Posidrive screwdriver (aka Phillips head screwdriver)
*Hairdryer (appx 1000watt power output is just right)
*Hot Knife (I used a Antex Gascat 75P portable soldering Iron + hot knife attachment on low temperature setting)
*Something to scrape the glue off if a hot knife isn’t available
*Araldite epoxy resin & hardener or similar for the crack in the lens
*Clear High Modulous Silicon sealant
*Lint Free Cloth
*Antistatic plastic cleanser spray/foam or similar
Instructions:
With the headlight in front of you and the bulbs and rubber covers removed, Proceed to remove the five (5) surrounding metal securing clips with the Flathead screwdriver, these should pop off pretty easily.
Then Place the headlight on a flat surface and position the hairdryer in the rear dipped beam aperture on full power, this will remove all condensation from the lenses.
After approximately 5 minutes (this is not a definitive time, you must watch the casing because you don’t want to burn anything) of full power internal heating with the 1000w hairdryer the glue holding the lens to the casing will have softened just enough.
Now place the flathead screwdriver between the casing and the lens and slowly work your way around the casing turning the screwdriver any prying the two parts away from each other. Now be careful as there is 3x plastic clips moulded into the design that hold the casing together, you will spot these easily and should start by unclipping the clip on the headlight that sits next to the nostril vent (when mounted on the car irrespective of left or right hand side light unit)
Now you need to remove the two Phillips head screws holding the black headlight surround inside the lens.
The next step is to remove the majority of the old seal from around the lens and the rear casings mounting groove. You can just reseal it without removing the old seal but it will most likely be a bad seal because of the uneven surfaces that formed when you split the housing.
To remove the glue/seal I used a hot knife attachment with a gas powered soldering iron. You simply scrape the old glue/seal off with a low heat setting so you don’t damage the plastic housing, if you don’t have access to a hot knife then you can use other means to remove the old seal but be sure not to damage the housing.
With all of the excess seal removed the next stage is to fully clean the headlight units.
I recommend using a damp cloth for any exterior dirt on the units but for inside the lens I personally used something called ‘AFC’ Antistatic Foam Cleanser along with a clean lint free cloth. AFC is used to clean all sorts of plastics especially computer cases. Its antistatic property is ideal for our application as it ensures that once re-assembled, any dirt or dust eventually collected within the headlight over time will not just stick to the lens. This often happens overtime on these headlights; people have noted the brightness being affected by dirt that is collecting on the lens; by using AFC or similar antistatic cleanser then you avoid this issue letting any dirt or dust that does get into the housing just gather at the bottom of the casing, out of view.
Once cleaned you are ready to repair any cracks in the lens (if you have been unfortunate enough to obtain these flaws, otherwise you should proceed to re-assemble the units).
I used an Epoxy Resin & Hardener (basically a plastic that sets when the hardener is applied) called ‘Araldite’. I mixed the two ingredients together on some cardboard and used a plastic spatula to apply into the crack from the interior and exterior side of the lens. Note this is a messy job; it is very difficult to fix any large crack in the lens and make it unnoticeable. The Araldite I used was formulated to set in around 60 seconds which looking back at the difficulty I had applying it neatly, realistically I would recommend using an Epoxy resin & hardener that takes at least 10minutes to harden.
Wipe any excess off with the lint free cloth you used to clean the lens with earlier.
After the epoxy resin used on the lens has hardened sufficiently then it is time to re-insert the black plastic headlight surround that mounts inside the lens. Once inserted, secure with the 2x Posidrive screws you removed earlier.
Now its time to apply the new seal. I used a mastek (spelling?) gun and cartridge of “high Modulus Silicone Sealant” This has a thin plastic nozzle that you will use to evenly feed the silicone into the groove on the headlight housing where the lens is to be seated. Be careful not to apply too much into the groove as that will make everything very messy. If you squirt a line of silicone that covers ¾ of the depth of the groove then that is sufficient to give a strong seal.
Next you must carefully wipe off the excess with kitchen paper ideally and then carefully slide the lens into the mounting groove in the rear part of the housing making sure to wipe off any seepage of silicone from the edges once you have pressed the housing back together. Now make sure each edge is flush and replace the 5 metal retaining clips that were taken off at the start. Three (3) of these secure the bottom of the headlight and two (2) secure the top. The mounting places are easily identifiable as they have been moulded into the headlights outer case each with a visible recessed lip that the clips attaché onto. (Bear in mind the metal retaining clips only mount one way, if you have difficulty clipping them on with just your hands then you’ve got them the wrong way!)
All done, no more condensation, dirt or crack in the headlight and all that’s left is for you to put your car back together!
Any questions or comments?
Modified by OTT at 4:49 PM 7/19/2004
I heard you could do this in the oven but I found a much simpler safer way to open the casing without damaging it. The oven method leaves the case very hot and difficult to work with so used an alternative in the form of a 1kw hairdryer.
Tools Required:
*Small Flathead screwdriver
*Posidrive screwdriver (aka Phillips head screwdriver)
*Hairdryer (appx 1000watt power output is just right)
*Hot Knife (I used a Antex Gascat 75P portable soldering Iron + hot knife attachment on low temperature setting)
*Something to scrape the glue off if a hot knife isn’t available
*Araldite epoxy resin & hardener or similar for the crack in the lens
*Clear High Modulous Silicon sealant
*Lint Free Cloth
*Antistatic plastic cleanser spray/foam or similar
Instructions:
With the headlight in front of you and the bulbs and rubber covers removed, Proceed to remove the five (5) surrounding metal securing clips with the Flathead screwdriver, these should pop off pretty easily.
Then Place the headlight on a flat surface and position the hairdryer in the rear dipped beam aperture on full power, this will remove all condensation from the lenses.
After approximately 5 minutes (this is not a definitive time, you must watch the casing because you don’t want to burn anything) of full power internal heating with the 1000w hairdryer the glue holding the lens to the casing will have softened just enough.
Now place the flathead screwdriver between the casing and the lens and slowly work your way around the casing turning the screwdriver any prying the two parts away from each other. Now be careful as there is 3x plastic clips moulded into the design that hold the casing together, you will spot these easily and should start by unclipping the clip on the headlight that sits next to the nostril vent (when mounted on the car irrespective of left or right hand side light unit)
Now you need to remove the two Phillips head screws holding the black headlight surround inside the lens.
The next step is to remove the majority of the old seal from around the lens and the rear casings mounting groove. You can just reseal it without removing the old seal but it will most likely be a bad seal because of the uneven surfaces that formed when you split the housing.
To remove the glue/seal I used a hot knife attachment with a gas powered soldering iron. You simply scrape the old glue/seal off with a low heat setting so you don’t damage the plastic housing, if you don’t have access to a hot knife then you can use other means to remove the old seal but be sure not to damage the housing.
With all of the excess seal removed the next stage is to fully clean the headlight units.
I recommend using a damp cloth for any exterior dirt on the units but for inside the lens I personally used something called ‘AFC’ Antistatic Foam Cleanser along with a clean lint free cloth. AFC is used to clean all sorts of plastics especially computer cases. Its antistatic property is ideal for our application as it ensures that once re-assembled, any dirt or dust eventually collected within the headlight over time will not just stick to the lens. This often happens overtime on these headlights; people have noted the brightness being affected by dirt that is collecting on the lens; by using AFC or similar antistatic cleanser then you avoid this issue letting any dirt or dust that does get into the housing just gather at the bottom of the casing, out of view.
Once cleaned you are ready to repair any cracks in the lens (if you have been unfortunate enough to obtain these flaws, otherwise you should proceed to re-assemble the units).
I used an Epoxy Resin & Hardener (basically a plastic that sets when the hardener is applied) called ‘Araldite’. I mixed the two ingredients together on some cardboard and used a plastic spatula to apply into the crack from the interior and exterior side of the lens. Note this is a messy job; it is very difficult to fix any large crack in the lens and make it unnoticeable. The Araldite I used was formulated to set in around 60 seconds which looking back at the difficulty I had applying it neatly, realistically I would recommend using an Epoxy resin & hardener that takes at least 10minutes to harden.
Wipe any excess off with the lint free cloth you used to clean the lens with earlier.
After the epoxy resin used on the lens has hardened sufficiently then it is time to re-insert the black plastic headlight surround that mounts inside the lens. Once inserted, secure with the 2x Posidrive screws you removed earlier.
Now its time to apply the new seal. I used a mastek (spelling?) gun and cartridge of “high Modulus Silicone Sealant” This has a thin plastic nozzle that you will use to evenly feed the silicone into the groove on the headlight housing where the lens is to be seated. Be careful not to apply too much into the groove as that will make everything very messy. If you squirt a line of silicone that covers ¾ of the depth of the groove then that is sufficient to give a strong seal.
Next you must carefully wipe off the excess with kitchen paper ideally and then carefully slide the lens into the mounting groove in the rear part of the housing making sure to wipe off any seepage of silicone from the edges once you have pressed the housing back together. Now make sure each edge is flush and replace the 5 metal retaining clips that were taken off at the start. Three (3) of these secure the bottom of the headlight and two (2) secure the top. The mounting places are easily identifiable as they have been moulded into the headlights outer case each with a visible recessed lip that the clips attaché onto. (Bear in mind the metal retaining clips only mount one way, if you have difficulty clipping them on with just your hands then you’ve got them the wrong way!)
All done, no more condensation, dirt or crack in the headlight and all that’s left is for you to put your car back together!
Any questions or comments?
Modified by OTT at 4:49 PM 7/19/2004
06-02-2004, 04:42 PM
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Re: How to Repair your bad seal/condensation filled lights & repair a cracked lens in the process (O
nice write up, I recommended it for inclusion in the essential links thread. 
06-02-2004, 05:07 PM
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Re: (OTT)
Thanx for all the great INFO!!!
I found some 3M stuff.. I may try to use it..
I am in the middle of doing this myself, thanx for finding some free time to make this thread.
I found some 3M stuff.. I may try to use it..
I am in the middle of doing this myself, thanx for finding some free time to make this thread.
06-03-2004, 05:26 PM
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No Problem, let me know how it goes or if you come across any issues. The writeup was made for the single piece JDM lights but most of the content applies to its USDM & UKDM double piece counterparts.
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06-05-2004, 06:56 AM
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Re: How to Repair your bad seal/condensation filled lights & repair a cracked lens in the process (O
i was wondering where can i get the jdm casing from b/c the my head lights are peeling off some type of acrylic and its not the clear so i want to change the casing.
06-06-2004, 10:33 AM
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thanks, and turbohybridlude Your best bet would be going to http://www.google.co.jp and searching for honda spares. But probly wont find many if any. Maybe you should consider just buying JDM ones.
Kal, as for the house mate, I wish it was mine with thatminted double garage!, its not though. I'm just sorta 'borrowing' it from a friend because I havent got a garage of my own, I do actually live in a big white cottage called 'Vine Cottage' because it has its own grape vine (yum yum) + 3floor 300yr old (we call it our 'mill') building which is like my workshop. Its right next to a canal near a lock. The top floor of that building is made with cow manure, clay and straw!! ive fell through it once or twice to ball height with a leg hanging thorugh a hole lol. Its got a dove cote at the top but the floors a bit dodgy really, Ill have to get round to ripping it out and putting a proper one in one day. Real tranquil place tho. But i think I'd rather move back into a city especially near a track
As with any country theres a massive range of houses, the one in the background of the above pic has 5 bedrooms, Jaccuzzi, Walk in shower, 3 bathrooms, and one hidden through a secret sliding door in the back of the mirrored wardrobes in the master bedroom. Real nice place.
heres a picture of my cottage if your curious Kal. ... (big pic, 3.5mb)
http://www.we-todd-did-racing....D.jpg
Kal, as for the house mate, I wish it was mine with thatminted double garage!, its not though. I'm just sorta 'borrowing' it from a friend because I havent got a garage of my own, I do actually live in a big white cottage called 'Vine Cottage' because it has its own grape vine (yum yum) + 3floor 300yr old (we call it our 'mill') building which is like my workshop. Its right next to a canal near a lock. The top floor of that building is made with cow manure, clay and straw!! ive fell through it once or twice to ball height with a leg hanging thorugh a hole lol. Its got a dove cote at the top but the floors a bit dodgy really, Ill have to get round to ripping it out and putting a proper one in one day. Real tranquil place tho. But i think I'd rather move back into a city especially near a track
As with any country theres a massive range of houses, the one in the background of the above pic has 5 bedrooms, Jaccuzzi, Walk in shower, 3 bathrooms, and one hidden through a secret sliding door in the back of the mirrored wardrobes in the master bedroom. Real nice place.
heres a picture of my cottage if your curious Kal. ... (big pic, 3.5mb)
http://www.we-todd-did-racing....D.jpg
07-12-2004, 01:34 PM
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Re: How to Repair your bad seal/condensation filled lights & repair a cracked lens in the process (O
Ok, you're going to have to tell me where you got all this ****, because I just spent 2 1/2 hours trying to find that ****. I found none of the tools required. Help me out please.
07-12-2004, 03:26 PM
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Re: How to Repair your bad seal/condensation filled lights & repair a cracked lens in the process (O
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Lude-Conduct »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Anyone?</TD></TR></TABLE>
07-13-2004, 08:43 AM
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Re: How to Repair your bad seal/condensation filled lights & repair a cracked lens in the process (O
Tools Required:
*Small Flathead screwdriver - Local Hardware Store
*Posidrive screwdriver - Local Hardware store
*Hairdryer (appx 1000watt power output is just right) - ? Catalogue/housold shops
*Hot Knife (I used a Antex Gascat 75P portable soldering Iron + hot knife attachment on low temperature setting)
*Something to scrape the glue off if a hot knife isn’t available
*Araldite epoxy resin (a plastic in viscous liquid form) & hardener (the catalyst which makes the epoxy resin set hard and become regular plastic!) or similar for the crack in the lens
*Clear Silicon sealant - local hardware store, like the stuff they use to seal in the edge of windows to masonary or even around the edges of a bath to tiles, that stuff that comes in a large tube.
*Lint Free Cloth - car detailing supplies shop
*Antistatic plastic cleanser spray/foam or similar - Ideally, otherwise use a clean damp cloth and a window leather
I dont believe you couldnt find 'anything'; How hard is it to find a place that sell screwdrivers, or you robly got some in your house somwhere.
*Small Flathead screwdriver - Local Hardware Store
*Posidrive screwdriver - Local Hardware store
*Hairdryer (appx 1000watt power output is just right) - ? Catalogue/housold shops
*Hot Knife (I used a Antex Gascat 75P portable soldering Iron + hot knife attachment on low temperature setting)
*Something to scrape the glue off if a hot knife isn’t available
*Araldite epoxy resin (a plastic in viscous liquid form) & hardener (the catalyst which makes the epoxy resin set hard and become regular plastic!) or similar for the crack in the lens
*Clear Silicon sealant - local hardware store, like the stuff they use to seal in the edge of windows to masonary or even around the edges of a bath to tiles, that stuff that comes in a large tube.
*Lint Free Cloth - car detailing supplies shop
*Antistatic plastic cleanser spray/foam or similar - Ideally, otherwise use a clean damp cloth and a window leather
I dont believe you couldnt find 'anything'; How hard is it to find a place that sell screwdrivers, or you robly got some in your house somwhere.
07-15-2004, 03:28 PM
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Re: How to Repair your bad seal/condensation filled lights & repair a cracked lens in the process (O
Well I had the flathead and the blowdryer. But no hardware store knew what the hell a posidrive screwdriver was.
07-15-2004, 05:23 PM
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Re: How to Repair your bad seal/condensation filled lights & repair a cracked lens in the process (O
Well you have flathead [-] screwdrivers, and you have [+] head screwdrivers = Posi-drive, as in positive symbol .. +
i don't know what you guys call them in the states. Posidrive is what the '+'tipped screwdriver has been known as for a very long time back here in England.
i don't know what you guys call them in the states. Posidrive is what the '+'tipped screwdriver has been known as for a very long time back here in England.
07-15-2004, 06:13 PM
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Re: How to Repair your bad seal/condensation filled lights & repair a cracked lens in the process (O
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by OTT »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well you have flathead [-] screwdrivers, and you have [+] head screwdrivers = Posi-drive, as in positive symbol .. +
i don't know what you guys call them in the states. Posidrive is what the '+'tipped screwdriver has been known as for a very long time back here in England. </TD></TR></TABLE>
haha, nice and no one at the hardware store could figure that out, but then again who would have thought of that? not me
i don't know what you guys call them in the states. Posidrive is what the '+'tipped screwdriver has been known as for a very long time back here in England.
</TD></TR></TABLE>haha, nice and no one at the hardware store could figure that out, but then again who would have thought of that? not me
07-15-2004, 07:38 PM
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Re: How to Repair your bad seal/condensation filled lights & repair a cracked lens in the process (O
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by OTT »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What do you call them then?</TD></TR></TABLE>
phillips head screwdriver
phillips head screwdriver
07-16-2004, 09:01 AM
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Re: (Daboi630)
Yeah mate, don't use silicone. It is permenant and lacks the flexibility required for the job (heating, shrinking).
Available from Nissan: Part# B6553-89915 "sealer."
I believe the part is used to seal window trim for automotive application, but this is OEM headlight sealant with identical properties to what was once there.
Available from Nissan: Part# B6553-89915 "sealer."
I believe the part is used to seal window trim for automotive application, but this is OEM headlight sealant with identical properties to what was once there.
07-19-2004, 07:17 AM
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Re: (pIOUs)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pIOUs »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yeah mate, don't use silicone. It is permenant and lacks the flexibility required for the job (heating, shrinking).
Available from Nissan: Part# B6553-89915 "sealer."
I believe the part is used to seal window trim for automotive application, but this is OEM headlight sealant with identical properties to what was once there.</TD></TR></TABLE>
The silicone sealant I used is High-modulous and mold resistant. It is one of the best available, it is used to seal wooden and PVC windows to masonarye tc and even around the edge of baths. This type of silicone is guarenteed t stay mold resistand (i.e. Impermiable) for 10 years at least! That will in most cases outlast the usable life of the vehicle. It is the IDEAL seal to use in this aplication, I looked at various silicones and sealants but the product spec of this stood out. And just to clarify it is a High-Modulous silicone sealant that I used and even through the bad weather wre having at the moment I have not had even a hint of condensation in it; to this day it has remained sealed perfectly without any issues in a wide variety of atmospheric conditions.
EDIT: offending statements retracted
Modified by OTT at 8:15 AM 7/24/2004
Available from Nissan: Part# B6553-89915 "sealer."
I believe the part is used to seal window trim for automotive application, but this is OEM headlight sealant with identical properties to what was once there.</TD></TR></TABLE>
The silicone sealant I used is High-modulous and mold resistant. It is one of the best available, it is used to seal wooden and PVC windows to masonarye tc and even around the edge of baths. This type of silicone is guarenteed t stay mold resistand (i.e. Impermiable) for 10 years at least! That will in most cases outlast the usable life of the vehicle. It is the IDEAL seal to use in this aplication, I looked at various silicones and sealants but the product spec of this stood out. And just to clarify it is a High-Modulous silicone sealant that I used and even through the bad weather wre having at the moment I have not had even a hint of condensation in it; to this day it has remained sealed perfectly without any issues in a wide variety of atmospheric conditions.
EDIT: offending statements retracted
Modified by OTT at 8:15 AM 7/24/2004
07-19-2004, 07:42 AM
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Re: How to Repair your bad seal/condensation filled lights & repair a cracked lens in the process (O
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LudaMan »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
phillips head screwdriver </TD></TR></TABLE>
heheh We call it a phillips also. Heh, I should have put both names in. i will Edit the original post.
Thanks
--
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Daboi630 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i want some JDM one piece headlights
nice writeup! </TD></TR></TABLE>
Go find some NOW and it'll make your lude look cleaner/smoother!
i think they're pretty nice looking, and thanks for your comment
phillips head screwdriver
</TD></TR></TABLE>heheh We call it a phillips also. Heh, I should have put both names in. i will Edit the original post.
Thanks
--
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Daboi630 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i want some JDM one piece headlights
nice writeup! </TD></TR></TABLE>
Go find some NOW and it'll make your lude look cleaner/smoother!
i think they're pretty nice looking, and thanks for your comment
07-23-2004, 07:42 PM
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Re: (OTT)
OEM is not silicone. Regardless of the formula and properties you picked, it will be nothing like OEM. The sealant I recommend was found through months of combing though bad products to match OEM sealant. You've proven that yours will seal up just fine, but will you be able to take it apart ever? It's not worth the torture. The sealant I recommended can be sealed and resealed 4-5 times like OEM. There are tons of information on this subject. The broken/chipped lens repair was a unique addition to other writeups I've read. I will also say that there is no agreement on whitch method is best for heating the headlight for disassembly. I use the oven method. I've modified over 40 headlights from basic HID projector retrofits to completely custom reflector work. I can make those jdm headlights worth a damn with hella or bosch projectors in them. I use this sealant when the original is too hard or weathered to be used. Most of the time I just re-use the OEM sealant without any leakage issues. None. Sealant is overkill and a waste of time. Remember that almost no headlamp assembly is air-tight. They are all vented. Using silicone is what I call an option of last resort. Just try the nissan sealant if you are open minded. I promise you will not go back. Thanks for letting me chip in on this subject. There is always a better way.
Modified by pIOUs at 3:06 PM 7/24/2004
Modified by pIOUs at 3:06 PM 7/24/2004