itsF3NG

can anyone just confirm my steps are correct...?

mike_belben@yahoo.com

you arent going to get that out with sanding. see the pinholes through the outer layer? youre already into the inner sheetmetal. die grind it and make a patch thats as close as you can get it to the outer form and have it welded or at the least pop riveted in. then load with fiberglass reinforced filler till the rough shape is there and finish with a quality filler like evercoat rage. i think evercoat products are excellent. just dont use bondo brand. it shrinks alot afterward. remember, 36 grit sanded bare metal wiped down with a quality cleaning agent.
http://www.evercoat.com/

here is a great article on fillers
http://www.roadsters.com/filler/

itsF3NG

thanks for the response...you think my problem is a easy fix? or should i hit up some professional help?

What i really want to do is really just to stop the rusting to spread. Any spry i can get to just stop it from spreading? i don't care if it looks bad. thanks.

g2tegsown

I got the same problem, rust all over the damn place when you take off the skirts, I hate how every ****** honda out there rust in the same damn spot, I have a integra with the EXACT same rust spots. I'm debating wether to sell my car before I sink to much in it.

MulletManRockStar

should be able to get rear quater panels or at least patch panels for the crx thru a after market supplier or NOS parts from Honda. Of course NOS will be spendy. If all else try and find good donor car with sheet metal. Get a sanding board or d/a if you have one. Get some 36 grit or 40 grit on the area of rust. Keep sanding untill you see no more rust. Get a cut off wheel and cut off the bad metal where it needs to be. Make sure you lined it up with how the patch panel goes. If your welding a big area skip stitch weld it. Meaning do lil welds on different areas at a time so you dont warp the panels. After welds are done grind off what needs to be ground off. Get some filler and fill in bad areas. Etch prime,primer,sealer,etc

mike_belben@yahoo.com

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by itsF3NG &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
What i really want to do is really just to stop the rusting to spread. Any spry i can get to just stop it from spreading? i don't care if it looks bad. thanks.</TD></TR></TABLE>

any kind of oil will actually prevent new rust while loosenin old rust until you can fix it correctly. thin stuff like WD40 will work into the area with ease but evaporate quickly. thicker oils protect for longer but are more effort to get into all the cracks. a trick for storing machinery that has delicate bare metal areas is grease thinned with acetone till its watery. the acetone evaporates after the grease has seeped under every crack and stays on longer than anything else ive tried.

as for the car, i brush old motor oil on all my suspension pivot bolts and the frame seams where they tend to rot out whenever i happen to be under there. it keeps everything from giving headaches down the road. snapped LCA bolts are about the biggest headache you can experience in a honda and a little motor oil can completely prevent it.

vtecn8ive

wow good to see my thread is back alive .

I have to wait till next year to get my car done. It sucks not owning a garage .
I did however test rust repairs on my 85 CRX which I repainted. The pieces I rewelded began to rust within a month.

I thought I could get away with using just epoxy primer. but apparently this is not good enough.

You need to use a etch primer. I was recommended by mulitple people to use Por-15 or Evercoat.

With rust like itsF3NG has I would grind it down with a stripper then take a DA (dual action) sander to it. This way your paper is not getting caught on all the rust sticking out.

Then use some etch primer on it. If its going to be a little while resand it then put etch primer on that way it is fresh metal being sealed.

-shane

MulletManRockStar

Yeh you want etch primer any time you have bare metal. POR 15 works great but its really hard to sand and get paint to stick over. It works great on floor boards where carpet covers it. I really recconmend por 15 to anyone who has surface or mild rust issues (meaning you cant poke a hole thru with you finger) to use this on areas that are cover or on rails. This stuff is tuff. I use it on my classics.

92integra_gs

wow this rust repair is back alive!... does anyone know where i can find some outside rear 1/4 panels ( looking for aftermarket so it would be cheaper) - i know they exist i have seen a book(body repair school book) before ... i already know about the dealer and the j-yard... but just shopping around to see what else is out there for the rear quarter panel...

mike_belben@yahoo.com

what car are you needing quarters for? i actually have the entire passenger side of a 90 integra coupe (rust free) that id love to get rid of.

92integra_gs

crx....

im trying to see if i can bring it back from the dead(my beloved crx)..... right now its totalled... but thats the body shop talking... if i do the work im pretty sure i can get a salvage title on it...

i want to see if i can find a aftermarket supplier for rear 1/4 panels before i start looking in the j-yard... my last option of course would be the dealer

vtecn8ive

There was a guy a page or so back that said there is a company that has them for sale.

other then that. I've yet to hear of any besides the dealership which will rape you on prices.

MulletManRockStar

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92integra_gs &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">crx....

im trying to see if i can bring it back from the dead(my beloved crx)..... right now its totalled... but thats the body shop talking... if i do the work im pretty sure i can get a salvage title on it...

i want to see if i can find a aftermarket supplier for rear 1/4 panels before i start looking in the j-yard... my last option of course would be the dealer</TD></TR></TABLE>

You should ask the body shop what damage is done to your car. If it was hit in the 1/4 panel there is a good chance it ruined other stuff as well. I see it all the time at work. A car comes in that doesnt look to bad but upon further looking at it it damaged a lot of other strucural stuff.

92integra_gs

the 1/4 panel has no frame damage on it just rust problems i had before .... its front end damage... with the driver side engine bay frame dent on it .....not the chassis tho... i was planning on replace that and weld back the same part... seen it done... just wanting to know the aftermarket supplier so i can shop for cheap before preceeding in restoring this crx...

our beloved cars are becoming extinct... its about time to preserve this honda "I so called 80's classic"

killa rex

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vtecn8ive &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I was curious what do I do about the back of it? It is in a sealed area how do I prevent the rear from rusting out again?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

my best suggestion is to use alot of undercoat....about 2-3 layers of it...u can buy it at any automotive store...i use 3M they has 2 kinds...one that is paintable one one that is not

SinSeven

Much props to everyone !

vtecn8ive

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by xmunxjai648 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

my best suggestion is to use alot of undercoat....about 2-3 layers of it...u can buy it at any automotive store...i use 3M they has 2 kinds...one that is paintable one one that is not</TD></TR></TABLE>


I was talking about when I do my running boards. Its an enclosed area and when I apply the Weld-Thru Primer it was stating its good to go but what about the welds?

The welds would be fresh metal just sitting there . Any idea body work people?

-Shane

killa rex

enclosed area...maybe use some seam sealer

vtecn8ive

but how do i get it in there

killa rex

well...i'm guessing it's just gonna have to be..no way to get in there

kid-honda

iTrader: (2)

OMG I have had enough of this.

To fix rust the ENTIRE panel must be removed at the spotwelds.
At minimium you should cut atleast 4-6 inches around the rust but the only right way is full panel replacment and that is it.

Nobody ever believes me but I only went to school for this and work at a shop and know many many people in the industry some who have done it longer then I am old.

It will cost you more in tools and materials to do this right then a 6 mile stored for 10 years perfect crx.

These are not 85 year old classics, buy a rust free one, I live in the mid-west and I get rust free ones all the time that I drive home for the same or less then yours guys "good deal" rust cars.

CLIFFNOTES. Take rusty car, remove all good parts, drag to yard, crush, procede to classifieds for worthwhile car

If you want to do it good for anybody who does but its not worth it.

SomeDude56

if youve had enough of this then dont ******* read it you moron, jesus christ, u got anger problems?????? do u like to do stuff you dont like to do then get pissed when u do it? its morons like you that make it annoying not posts that people are intrested in.

o yea and by the way mines pretty damn bad to so i had a bud that actually got his done at maaco (dont laugh they did a good job) and paid 600 bux so i went on up there and they quoted my *** 800 (unpainted) well it just so happens that the guy who is fixin my dads car works for himself and i figured id take it by him for an estimate (good idea) he went out said "not that bad" then said "bout 300 for both sides new metal and painted and i even saw an accord that he did from the door back and boy she looked sweeettttttttttttt. so if your in the cincinnati area and need some body work done pm me and ill hook u up!

kid-honda

iTrader: (2)

Morons like me? I am the one on PM and the phone and in person helping people all the time.

And I wasnt mad I was sick of the misinformation, do you like misinformation?

I just wanted to let people know what really needs to be done to make a proper repair.

Your the one cursing, shall we ask around how big of a moron I am I know nothing at all, I have only owned more hondas than you are old and I have been payed to work on more hondas then you are old but your right, I am out of this post, I would have been willing to help with any questions as I already have in this post if you read a few posts back but you know more then me so we will leave this topic up to you the all knowing rust god

BTW I am still not mad.

freakaccident

Just a tip on the welding. If you know oxy acety welding then do it. It is much better and cleaner than mig. It's not fast by any means but if you are real good you can use practically no body filler. I would use neutral flame with 4psi on both gases. Prep the patch pieces to fit perfectly with no gap and you will minimize the amount of filler rod needed. If you don't have experience with the torch then use mig.

nuckingfuts

WARP! do you know how thin this stuff is?