Prudz_lude

iTrader: (1)

I was just curious how many of you have bought pre made down pipes, and have had them fit perfectly? I was reading through the marketplace sponsor section and saw they do log manifold combos which include the log manifold, dump tube, and downpipe for b/d/h series motors. I'm going to be running a garrett GT2860R internally wastegated with a T25/T28 flange. I'm very tempted to have them make a log manifold with no wastegate dump along with the down pipe. However, i'm a bit skeptical that someone can whip a down pipe up without the turbo in their hands and have it fit perfectly. Maybe i'm missing something, would I be shipping the turbo to Spoolin?

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

For most turbochargers, spoolin' just needs to know the compressor and turbine housing sizes. For your particular needs, I'd actually send the turbocharger to them in order to make the correct parts, since you're using non-journal bearing flanges for the parts you are using.

You may even want to just e-mail or contact them and let them know what you have. They may have a GT2860RS on the shelf ready to use as a mock up.

Its a very standard practice, and they've been doing that for a number of years.

But you won't know anything until you ask them..

Good luck.. You'll be in good hands with them.

Prudz_lude

iTrader: (1)

That's exactly what I was thinking. Nothing but great things from that company. I figured i'd ask today since they are closed. Tomorrow I am going to be calling Garrett about clocking and i'll give Spoolin a call and ask about the downpipe and manifold. I imagine they probably have jigs setup as if they motor was in front of them. That or they actually have a motor on a stand they use to act as a jig and test fit their products.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

"clocking?"

Prudz_lude

iTrader: (1)

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Ok. Ring Ring.... "Hello? I'm as good as calling Garrett on the phone for these questions instead of wasting their time.... I see you need to understand how to rotate your cartridge.. Here are the rules."

1) The center cartridge needs to be as vertical as possible. Meaning, keep the feed and return fittings/flange portion of the center cartridge as "up & down" as possible. Do not have the return flange pointing towards the actual block of the Honda, as that would make the rotation higher than 20 degrees from vertical on a Y-axis. You would then starve the turbo as these are gravity fed

2) please make sure that you're not using any 90 Degree return fittings on the gravity - fed turbocharger towards the oil pan. this can cause oil drainage backups and you'll think that the oil sealing ring is leaking when its the installer that causes these problems. the less you overthink, the better.

3) Its ok to use a 90 degree fitting on the feed line as long as on a Honda B-series engine its fed from either an oil sandwich plate on the block or the oil sending unit on the back of the block. Anywhere else, and oil feed will be insuffcient

4) please allow for proper cool down after driving, even when not "Romping" (what a word, hahah) on the car, as hot oil will coke on the journal bearing causing pre-mature wear.

5) After rotating the center cartridge and compressor cover with a 13mm wrench. Please make sure that the bolts on the turbine AND compressor cover are TIGHT. Do not use air compressed or electrical tools. They are about 13ft/lbs for the compressor and about 20ft/lbs for turbine bolts. Its best to have anti-seize on the bolts of the turbine housing in case the cartidge needs to be removed later.

Hopefully this answers the questions you would have been on hold for 20 minutes for Honeywell Turbo Technologies.. And when they answered, they would have put you on mute and laughed at you for about 3 minutes before transferring you to customer service.. in which you would have gotten to some poor shmuck's voice mail..

Thank you for calling..

Prudz_lude

iTrader: (1)

ya.... thanks for that. The reason I would call is because it's internally gated. It's not as simple as just turning the housing like in the video. It looks like I could, but I want to be 100% sure when playing with an expensive piece of equipment. Not only that, after seeing 100's of people blow up brand new turbos due to having incorrect oil feed/drain setups I want to make sure i'm on the right track. I have a few questions about oil feed, drain and restrictors as well. A company won't laugh at someone for asking questions to make sure their product doesn't get destroyed. A company typically welcomes questions to make sure their product works for their customer.

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

internally gated can be tricky to clock depending on how the wastegate mounts to the compressor side. can you post actual pictures of your turbo and where the wastegate mounts to the compressor side?

I've got a lot of experience clocking internally gated turbos and can more than likely tell you how to make it work

Prudz_lude

iTrader: (1)

https://honda-tech.com/forums/forced-induction-16/decent-size-turbo-goals-setup-3109906/

When I saw it today it looks like I just have to remove the two bolts holding the wastegate attached to the cool side. With those removed simply loosen the bolts like in the video until clocked the way I need it. There appears to be different bolt holes I can lock the wastegate to.

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

those two holes next to the wastegate bracket are for a different internal wastegate setup
and yes, you just loosen the bolts holding the clamps and spin the compressor housing... the problem is where it needs to be, the holes for the bracket/clamp might not line up with the corresponding holes on the compressor housing itself, all you can do is try various positions and see which ones allow you to mount the wastegate properly

if its too far in one direction vs. where the flapper arm is, the wastegate can actually bind and not function correctly

Prudz_lude

iTrader: (1)

hmmmm looks like i'm going to be clocking it tomorrow and seeing if this will work. I basically need the cool side facing the opposite direction it is currently. I want it facing the ground for the way my intercooler piping will be routed.

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

it might not be able to point straight down but you might be able to angle it towards the front of the car slightly

Prudz_lude

iTrader: (1)

It doesn't have to be straight down, just as long as it is pointing down i'm good. I have a traction bar, slim fans etc so lots of room to play with. I just don't want to run my piping from the top.

Prudz_lude

iTrader: (1)

Another question, it's oil/water cooled. Is it possible to just block off the water port and not run coolant through it?

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

No. That is a requirement to run that turbocharger based upon its carbon composite bearing cage. Without that, you're looking at failure of the unit premature to its extensive lifespan. Yes, people are running them without the coolant lines (at their own peril), but this is not a good idea at all. Please use the appropriate hardware to help cool the turbocharger.

Prudz_lude

iTrader: (1)

That's kind of what I was thinking. I'm thinking i'm going to be switching up the turbo. I was going to pull the trigger today and give my friend the cash but the fact clocking is a bitch and most likely required me to buy a different actuator, need to run coolant lines, buy adapters for the compressor side and intake. Just to much work. The thing causing so much grief is it's a $1200 i'm getting for $600 and it's dual ball bearing. The other turbo I'm thinking about is a Garrett Super60 Journal bearing. It runs an external wastegate, costs $590 new from Spoolin but won't cause any grief.

Fuuuuuuu

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

And will not have the power potential of the GT2860RS.. Not even close. Its even more limited than what you have.

Prudz_lude

iTrader: (1)

There are a few people on prelude power.com that have run super 60's and have high 200's 280-290whp. There are some other Journal bearing turbo's by garrett in the $600 range from spoolin right now on sale that can do 300whp. This is just a street application, nothing crazy.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

And those people on prelude power don't know how to pick out the right turbocharger, because they are running them pretty close to being pas efficiency. .


Spoolin is a great source, but again.. that choice is limiting.. very limiting on use. And I don't mean a drag-race, super HP application either

Prudz_lude

iTrader: (1)

What would you suggest, has to be new, $700-750 max for the turbo, 300whp on a 2.2l h22a1. I will not be going bigger in the future (i'll move on from the current car if I ever feel like more), street application, very quick spool that can hold the power all the way to 8200 rpm.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

GT3251B Journal bearing, Precision 5557, Borg-warner/BEP S252. All of them T3 flanged and ready to rock

Mr.Spec

better bet is to email him at SPoolindevelopment@gmail.com

orders are always going out and theres a few other companies Phil runs in addition to fabrication. As a result, he's not able to get to the phone often but answers emails after hours and fabricates after hours.

Prudz_lude

iTrader: (1)

Ya, I emailed and got a reply this morning. He doesn't have the gt2860r in stock but said he has something similar. I'll be emailing back and letting him know i'll just be buying everything from him. Way easier to have a box of goods show up at my door in one shot than countless packages. Way cheaper on boarder duty and shipping costs.

Thanks Shodan for the suggestions. I'll look into them.

MalcolmV8

Now this I've never heard. So even when doing "normal" driving you still need a cool down? Humm I just drive my car to where I'm going and shut it off. Only if I've been hammering on it hard towards the end of the drive do I let it idle for a minute or so to cool off. Am I ruining my turbo?

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Actually, yes. Cool down is a good idea, even in normal driving. Hot shut downs are always bad. You need to stop doing that PRONTO.

You don't have to cool down as long as say you were going full throttle for an extended period of time, but a cool down is needed for turbochargers. (about 30 seconds) This is why I believe that water cooling should be used even on journal bearing turbochargers. Just like the factory OEM models.