Helpful tricks, tips, ideas etc thread
01-02-2004, 03:11 PM
#1
Solbros Owns Me
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Helpful tricks, tips, ideas etc thread
I don't think I've seen any threads like this and I'm bored at work 
I think it would be good for some DIYers to learn a few tricks some of us have picked up along the way to make projects less of a hassle.
I'll start off with a few:
<FONT COLOR="blue">Intake Manifold Gaskets:</FONT>
Don't you hate trying to scrap the old gasket off the head and manifold to get a clean mating surface???
Spray WD-40 on the gasket before installation. Next time you pull the manifold off, the gasket comes off easy and you can re-use
<FONT COLOR="blue">Engine Installs</FONT>:
I always line up the rear mount first when dropping an engine in. After the rear mount is lined up, the passenger and driver drop in perfect....no more rocking the engine around trying to get that rear mount un-stuck
Get an Engine Leveler if possible. Saves a lot of time and easier mounting points on the engine
No need to pull the whole harness off...just disconnect at the shock towers, undo grounds, harness mounts, etc, and flap harness over engine. I've gone to people's houses too often to see them struggling trying to pull the whole harness off first
etc etc
<FONT COLOR="blue"> Tearing down heads</FONT>:
Easiest way to remove the valve keepers- takea deep socket and put some tape over the ratchet opening, and smack the retainer with a hammer. This lets the keepers fall right out...pull valves. springs, etc and you got a bear head
<FONT COLOR="blue">Head Gaskets</FONT>:
Always use copper gasket spray on new head gaskets. I've even re used old head gaskets several times....clean them good, make sure they're dry, and give them a few heavy coats of copper spray and you're good for another 100k
<FONT COLOR="blue"> Crank pulley</FONT>:
The infamous crank pulley....
Easiest ways I have found....
In the car:
remove starter and jam a close ended 14/15/16 mm wrench between flywheel teeth and housing on the radiator side. The outer diameter of the flywheels makes for a safe way to keep the crank from moving without damaging reciprocating assembly and flywheel teeth.
Without tranny attached:
Pop in 2 flywheel bolts opposite each other on the crank with about 1/4 inch of the head away from the crank....slide a nice piece of angle iron in between and use the floor as your leverage, and pop the bolt loose. Works everytime the FIRST time
<FONT COLOR="blue">Timing Belt</FONT>
I used to line up the cams and crank gear with the timing belt all at the same time...but that's such a hassle.
After you removed the old timing belt, pop on the new one over the crank gear, slide over the lower cover and crank pulley. Using the lower cover timing marks, line up the crank pulley at TDC and then slide over cams. I like doing this way much better.
Also, when pulling the head, there's no need to mess with the crank pulley...simply loosen the tensioner through the little peep hole, slide belt off cam, do your business, etc. Then, line up the crank pulley at TDC and slide over cam at TDC....vuala
That's my story and I'm sticking to it
P.S. If you were a hot dog, would you eat yourself....it's a simple yes or no question, Norm
I think it would be good for some DIYers to learn a few tricks some of us have picked up along the way to make projects less of a hassle.
I'll start off with a few:
<FONT COLOR="blue">Intake Manifold Gaskets:</FONT>
Don't you hate trying to scrap the old gasket off the head and manifold to get a clean mating surface???
Spray WD-40 on the gasket before installation. Next time you pull the manifold off, the gasket comes off easy and you can re-use
<FONT COLOR="blue">Engine Installs</FONT>:
I always line up the rear mount first when dropping an engine in. After the rear mount is lined up, the passenger and driver drop in perfect....no more rocking the engine around trying to get that rear mount un-stuck
Get an Engine Leveler if possible. Saves a lot of time and easier mounting points on the engine
No need to pull the whole harness off...just disconnect at the shock towers, undo grounds, harness mounts, etc, and flap harness over engine. I've gone to people's houses too often to see them struggling trying to pull the whole harness off first
etc etc
<FONT COLOR="blue"> Tearing down heads</FONT>:
Easiest way to remove the valve keepers- takea deep socket and put some tape over the ratchet opening, and smack the retainer with a hammer. This lets the keepers fall right out...pull valves. springs, etc and you got a bear head
<FONT COLOR="blue">Head Gaskets</FONT>:
Always use copper gasket spray on new head gaskets. I've even re used old head gaskets several times....clean them good, make sure they're dry, and give them a few heavy coats of copper spray and you're good for another 100k
<FONT COLOR="blue"> Crank pulley</FONT>:
The infamous crank pulley....
Easiest ways I have found....
In the car:
remove starter and jam a close ended 14/15/16 mm wrench between flywheel teeth and housing on the radiator side. The outer diameter of the flywheels makes for a safe way to keep the crank from moving without damaging reciprocating assembly and flywheel teeth.
Without tranny attached:
Pop in 2 flywheel bolts opposite each other on the crank with about 1/4 inch of the head away from the crank....slide a nice piece of angle iron in between and use the floor as your leverage, and pop the bolt loose. Works everytime the FIRST time
<FONT COLOR="blue">Timing Belt</FONT>
I used to line up the cams and crank gear with the timing belt all at the same time...but that's such a hassle.
After you removed the old timing belt, pop on the new one over the crank gear, slide over the lower cover and crank pulley. Using the lower cover timing marks, line up the crank pulley at TDC and then slide over cams. I like doing this way much better.
Also, when pulling the head, there's no need to mess with the crank pulley...simply loosen the tensioner through the little peep hole, slide belt off cam, do your business, etc. Then, line up the crank pulley at TDC and slide over cam at TDC....vuala
That's my story and I'm sticking to it
P.S. If you were a hot dog, would you eat yourself....it's a simple yes or no question, Norm
01-02-2004, 03:28 PM
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Re: Helpful tricks, tips, ideas etc thread (Emerika)
IF YOU EVER STRIP A BOLT.
Let's say you dealing with a seized bolt, a very common thing with our hondas, especially when it comes to suspension. I've broken breaker bars, sockets, socket wrenches numerous times, and majority of times i just strip the bolt.
Solution: I know it's a little bit out there, but you can simply weld on a nut of the same size or whatever size you want and keep trying
Let's say you dealing with a seized bolt, a very common thing with our hondas, especially when it comes to suspension. I've broken breaker bars, sockets, socket wrenches numerous times, and majority of times i just strip the bolt.
Solution: I know it's a little bit out there, but you can simply weld on a nut of the same size or whatever size you want and keep trying
01-02-2004, 03:43 PM
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Re: Helpful tricks, tips, ideas etc thread (1.8 HB)
Easiest way to remove struts & springs...
Pull the wheels off and get the car in the air. Now start in the front and remove the 2 14mm Bolts from the top of each strut. Now go into the wheel well and remove theBolt that goes thru the fork and the LCA, Now remove the 10mm Brake lines that hook up to the strut (92-95). Then remove the tensioner bolt off the top of the Fork. now you can pull the fork down and easily slide the Shock / spring combo out. For the rear... Un bolt the tops again, and go under the wheel well. Now remove the bolt that connects the Trailing arm to the Brake componet, and remove the Bolt that goes thru the Trailing arm and the Shock "pig's toe". now you can slide it out.
Reinstalation is easy too.. For the front just reverse the info given. For the rear its a lil tricky if your not Super man, so what I recomend is using a jack to jack up the bottom of the brake assembly to Match up all the holes.
Pull the wheels off and get the car in the air. Now start in the front and remove the 2 14mm Bolts from the top of each strut. Now go into the wheel well and remove theBolt that goes thru the fork and the LCA, Now remove the 10mm Brake lines that hook up to the strut (92-95). Then remove the tensioner bolt off the top of the Fork. now you can pull the fork down and easily slide the Shock / spring combo out. For the rear... Un bolt the tops again, and go under the wheel well. Now remove the bolt that connects the Trailing arm to the Brake componet, and remove the Bolt that goes thru the Trailing arm and the Shock "pig's toe". now you can slide it out.
Reinstalation is easy too.. For the front just reverse the info given. For the rear its a lil tricky if your not Super man, so what I recomend is using a jack to jack up the bottom of the brake assembly to Match up all the holes.
01-02-2004, 03:49 PM
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Re: Helpful tricks, tips, ideas etc thread (civiksiracer1)
as for the crank pulley...you can have a friend put it in gear and hold it there and just take a breaker bar and vuola. ive heard that to be the easiest way
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01-02-2004, 04:17 PM
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Re: (quik sol)
When doing drum brakes. The easiest way to change shoes and springs is to remove the hub and assemble the shoes and springs off of the car and then simply slide them into place, put in the retainer clips and reinstall the hub.
01-02-2004, 04:25 PM
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Re: Helpful tricks, tips, ideas etc thread (Emerika)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Emerika »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Spray WD-40 on the gasket before installation. Next time you pull the manifold off, the gasket comes off easy and you can re-use
Always use copper gasket spray on new head gaskets. I've even re used old head gaskets several times....clean them good, make sure they're dry, and give them a few heavy coats of copper spray and you're good for another 100k</TD></TR></TABLE>
Damn too late. I did hate taking the old intake manifold gasket off, and that gasket remover spray didn't do ****. I also just put a new head gasket on with no copper spray. I didn't see anywhere in the Helms it said to use it, so I didn't.
Spray WD-40 on the gasket before installation. Next time you pull the manifold off, the gasket comes off easy and you can re-use
Always use copper gasket spray on new head gaskets. I've even re used old head gaskets several times....clean them good, make sure they're dry, and give them a few heavy coats of copper spray and you're good for another 100k</TD></TR></TABLE>
Damn too late. I did hate taking the old intake manifold gasket off, and that gasket remover spray didn't do ****. I also just put a new head gasket on with no copper spray. I didn't see anywhere in the Helms it said to use it, so I didn't.
01-02-2004, 04:37 PM
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Re: Helpful tricks, tips, ideas etc thread (Emerika)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Emerika »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Spray WD-40 on the gasket before installation. Next time you pull the manifold off, the gasket comes off easy and you can re-use </TD></TR></TABLE>
damnit, to late, but oh well...great info
damnit, to late, but oh well...great info
01-02-2004, 04:40 PM
#12
Solbros Owns Me
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Re: Helpful tricks, tips, ideas etc thread (King Tut33)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by King Tut33 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Damn too late. I did hate taking the old intake manifold gasket off, and that gasket remover spray didn't do ****. I also just put a new head gasket on with no copper spray. I didn't see anywhere in the Helms it said to use it, so I didn't.</TD></TR></TABLE>
yeah, the WD40 one is my fave...lol
I haven't looked at a Helms, so I cou;dn't say.
When I assemble an engine with a freshly decked block and milled head, I won't use copper spray, since the surfaces are perfectly true and clean....but the copper spray just helps seal the gasket , especially when re using old ones
Damn too late. I did hate taking the old intake manifold gasket off, and that gasket remover spray didn't do ****. I also just put a new head gasket on with no copper spray. I didn't see anywhere in the Helms it said to use it, so I didn't.</TD></TR></TABLE>
yeah, the WD40 one is my fave...lol
I haven't looked at a Helms, so I cou;dn't say.
When I assemble an engine with a freshly decked block and milled head, I won't use copper spray, since the surfaces are perfectly true and clean....but the copper spray just helps seal the gasket
, especially when re using old ones
01-02-2004, 05:04 PM
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Re: Helpful tricks, tips, ideas etc thread (Emerika)
General Tips About Working On Cars:
Always allow yourself twice as long on something as you think it should take. Something will always go wrong.
If you can't figure out what something is/does try to look at what it is attached to, that should help clue you in
Greddy turbo installations (td04h-15g kit):
Make sure to bolt the oil feed line to the turbo before you put the turbo and manifold on the block.
Start the oil feed line in the T before you put the T on the block (if you plan to run it off of the same hole in the block at the Oil pressure sensor)
Always allow yourself twice as long on something as you think it should take. Something will always go wrong.
If you can't figure out what something is/does try to look at what it is attached to, that should help clue you in
Greddy turbo installations (td04h-15g kit):
Make sure to bolt the oil feed line to the turbo before you put the turbo and manifold on the block.
Start the oil feed line in the T before you put the T on the block (if you plan to run it off of the same hole in the block at the Oil pressure sensor)
01-02-2004, 06:35 PM
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Re: Helpful tricks, tips, ideas etc thread (Ricey McRicerton)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ricey McRicerton »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">General Tips About Working On Cars:
Always allow yourself twice as long on something as you think it should take. Something will always go wrong.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
This is something that I learned the hard way
. The first couple of times I let my bf work on my car he told me it would take around 2 hours.....it turned into an all day job every single time.
Always allow yourself twice as long on something as you think it should take. Something will always go wrong.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
This is something that I learned the hard way
. The first couple of times I let my bf work on my car he told me it would take around 2 hours.....it turned into an all day job every single time.
01-02-2004, 06:40 PM
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Re: Helpful tricks, tips, ideas etc thread (MissLady [DMV])
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MissLady [DMV »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">]
This is something that I learned the hard way . The first couple of times I let my bf work on my car he told me it would take around 2 hours.....it turned into an all day job every single time.</TD></TR></TABLE>
shoot, I just dont make any plans period
love the gasket tip, to late though
This is something that I learned the hard way
. The first couple of times I let my bf work on my car he told me it would take around 2 hours.....it turned into an all day job every single time.</TD></TR></TABLE>shoot, I just dont make any plans period
love the gasket tip, to late though
01-02-2004, 06:42 PM
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Re: Helpful tricks, tips, ideas etc thread (MissLady [DMV])
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MissLady [DMV »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
This is something that I learned the hard way . The first couple of times I let my bf work on my car he told me it would take around 2 hours.....it turned into an all day job every single time.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Same reason I posted it up here. When it comes to something big (ex. turbo install, etc..) I usually guess on about a weekend, and I can keep that up, but for example, my friend was taking back an amp and getting a new one. I told him I would swap them out in the parking lot. It's a Rockford Fosgate amp, so it has the covers on the end and the allen screws were in so tight that the crappy allen wrenches that came with it stripped out first thing and I had to go home and get mine. A 5 minute job turned into a 40 minute job.
This is something that I learned the hard way
. The first couple of times I let my bf work on my car he told me it would take around 2 hours.....it turned into an all day job every single time.</TD></TR></TABLE>Same reason I posted it up here. When it comes to something big (ex. turbo install, etc..) I usually guess on about a weekend, and I can keep that up, but for example, my friend was taking back an amp and getting a new one. I told him I would swap them out in the parking lot. It's a Rockford Fosgate amp, so it has the covers on the end and the allen screws were in so tight that the crappy allen wrenches that came with it stripped out first thing and I had to go home and get mine. A 5 minute job turned into a 40 minute job.
01-02-2004, 06:44 PM
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Re: Helpful tricks, tips, ideas etc thread (Ricey McRicerton)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ricey McRicerton »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Greddy turbo installations (td04h-15g kit):
Make sure to bolt the oil feed line to the turbo before you put the turbo and manifold on the block.
Start the oil feed line in the T before you put the T on the block (if you plan to run it off of the same hole in the block at the Oil pressure sensor)
</TD></TR></TABLE>
very true, i forgot to do both and it added about 40 min to my project
Greddy turbo installations (td04h-15g kit):
Make sure to bolt the oil feed line to the turbo before you put the turbo and manifold on the block.
Start the oil feed line in the T before you put the T on the block (if you plan to run it off of the same hole in the block at the Oil pressure sensor)
</TD></TR></TABLE>
very true, i forgot to do both and it added about 40 min to my project
01-02-2004, 06:57 PM
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Re: Helpful tricks, tips, ideas etc thread (Emerika)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Emerika »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"><FONT COLOR="blue">Intake Manifold Gaskets:</FONT>
Don't you hate trying to scrap the old gasket off the head and manifold to get a clean mating surface???
Spray WD-40 on the gasket before installation. Next time you pull the manifold off, the gasket comes off easy and you can re-use </TD></TR></TABLE>
Dammit! Wish i had known this one before...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Emerika »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
<FONT COLOR="blue">Engine Installs</FONT>:</TD></TR></TABLE>
This one kinda pertains to the subject above.
If you do not have airtools and are about to perform a swap, always break the axle nuts loose while the front end of the car is still on the ground. It will make your life much easier...
Don't you hate trying to scrap the old gasket off the head and manifold to get a clean mating surface???
Spray WD-40 on the gasket before installation. Next time you pull the manifold off, the gasket comes off easy and you can re-use
</TD></TR></TABLE>Dammit! Wish i had known this one before...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Emerika »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
<FONT COLOR="blue">Engine Installs</FONT>:</TD></TR></TABLE>
This one kinda pertains to the subject above.
If you do not have airtools and are about to perform a swap, always break the axle nuts loose while the front end of the car is still on the ground. It will make your life much easier...
01-02-2004, 07:25 PM
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Re: Helpful tricks, tips, ideas etc thread (Emerika)
Nice tips yO...........Very helpful for us EG GUYS!!!!!!!!
If you were a HOTDOG, would you be an OSCAR MEYER WEINER or a BALL PARK FRANK?
If you were a HOTDOG, would you be an OSCAR MEYER WEINER or a BALL PARK FRANK?
01-02-2004, 07:38 PM
#20
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Re: Helpful tricks, tips, ideas etc thread (JV)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JV »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
This one kinda pertains to the subject above.
If you do not have airtools and are about to perform a swap, always break the axle nuts loose while the front end of the car is still on the ground. It will make your life much easier... </TD></TR></TABLE>
first thing I do before even opening the hood
This one kinda pertains to the subject above.
If you do not have airtools and are about to perform a swap, always break the axle nuts loose while the front end of the car is still on the ground. It will make your life much easier...
</TD></TR></TABLE>first thing I do before even opening the hood
01-02-2004, 10:06 PM
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Re: Helpful tricks, tips, ideas etc thread (Emerika)
refill tranny fluid through the vss instead of struggling with that fill bolt.
i know i got a couple more...
this should be a sticky for a little bit
i know i got a couple more...
this should be a sticky for a little bit
01-03-2004, 05:32 AM
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01-04-2004, 08:12 AM
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Re: Helpful tricks, tips, ideas etc thread (EE_Chris)
crazy way of testing for blown head-gasket.
1.remove wires and plugs for each hole.
2.screw in a hose to the #1 cylinder thats connected to and air compressor.
3.with the car in nuetral, and hand-brakes , crank the crank-shaft to TDC on
the first hole, and then use a lond-handled wrench to jam the shaft to prevent it
from turning of course.
4.with the air compressor set to say, 80lbs pump that into the cylinder,HERE BE
VERY CAREFUL, since that air that being applied turns the whole engin with
crazy force, smacking the wrench to the body, so keeps hands, heads, and feet
clear.Another helper is a must of course to stop the air when needed.
5.now remove the radiator cap and watch to see if it over flows, repeat on all
cylinders to see if its the damn head to blame
Did this the other day and found out my head is leaking a #4 cylinder and my head is warped all in 15 mins or even less.
hope this help/is sum'n new and really quick for ya
1.remove wires and plugs for each hole.
2.screw in a hose to the #1 cylinder thats connected to and air compressor.
3.with the car in nuetral, and hand-brakes
, crank the crank-shaft to TDC onthe first hole, and then use a lond-handled wrench to jam the shaft to prevent it
from turning of course.
4.with the air compressor set to say, 80lbs pump that into the cylinder,HERE BE
VERY CAREFUL, since that air that being applied turns the whole engin with
crazy force, smacking the wrench to the body, so keeps hands, heads, and feet
clear.Another helper is a must of course to stop the air when needed.
5.now remove the radiator cap and watch to see if it over flows, repeat on all
cylinders to see if its the damn head to blame
Did this the other day and found out my head is leaking a #4 cylinder and my head is warped
all in 15 mins or even less.hope this help/is sum'n new and really quick for ya
heh heh heh
01-08-2004, 04:39 AM
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Re: (CheEsEsTeAk168)
Heres some cleaning tips:
>>When cleaning interior, dont overlook anything. For example, take a look at your a/c vents. Chances are that they have build up on the vents. I always pop off the vents and give them a wash with a diluted degreaser. (Simple Green will give your OEM black pieces a dry, corroded surface).
>>When applying cleaner wax, polish, glaze, or carnuba wax, always use a damp clean 100% cotton terry/polishing cloth. It will spread the product more evenly and help prevent scratches. I was suprised when a few "old timers" did not know this.
>>Febreze does wonders. (Especially if your a heavy 4pm-traffic farter).
>>If you have not done so, make a bag/bucket full of cleaning supplies. i.e. 5 clean terry cloths, 2 polishing cloths, 2 soft bristle toothbrushes, 1 makeup brush, 2 spray bottles, degreaser, wheel cleaner, mag polish, clay bar, cleaner wax, polish, glaze, carnuba wax, ammonia-free window cleaner, rain x, rain x fog thingy, newspaper, roll of napkins, leather/vinyl cleaner and moisturizer, soft bristle rim brush....and for the sake of not being bored I'll stop.
>> Do not forget to wipe down your steering wheel with a degreaser/cleaner every few days. God help those who never cleaned their steering wheels since the factory. Know one knows where your hands have been.
>>When detailing the exterior of your car, do not forget your undercarriage. You have a fully 4 hour detailed-zymol-sweat-n-tears wax job only to have your mud-caked dirty SRR/Beaks/ITR setup ruin it. A little toothbrush, rag, and engine cleaner under your car for an hour doesn't hurt anyone.
>>I find this helpful. Have a stereo out playing your favorite music, wear your favorite oil stained shirt, a cooler full of brew/soda/drinks, a pack of smokes (if your smoke), and as previously mentioned double your estimated time because you will run into complications or unexpected time-consuming jobs.
>>When cleaning interior, dont overlook anything. For example, take a look at your a/c vents. Chances are that they have build up on the vents. I always pop off the vents and give them a wash with a diluted degreaser. (Simple Green will give your OEM black pieces a dry, corroded surface).
>>When applying cleaner wax, polish, glaze, or carnuba wax, always use a damp clean 100% cotton terry/polishing cloth. It will spread the product more evenly and help prevent scratches. I was suprised when a few "old timers" did not know this.
>>Febreze does wonders. (Especially if your a heavy 4pm-traffic farter).
>>If you have not done so, make a bag/bucket full of cleaning supplies. i.e. 5 clean terry cloths, 2 polishing cloths, 2 soft bristle toothbrushes, 1 makeup brush, 2 spray bottles, degreaser, wheel cleaner, mag polish, clay bar, cleaner wax, polish, glaze, carnuba wax, ammonia-free window cleaner, rain x, rain x fog thingy, newspaper, roll of napkins, leather/vinyl cleaner and moisturizer, soft bristle rim brush....and for the sake of not being bored I'll stop.
>> Do not forget to wipe down your steering wheel with a degreaser/cleaner every few days. God help those who never cleaned their steering wheels since the factory. Know one knows where your hands have been.
>>When detailing the exterior of your car, do not forget your undercarriage. You have a fully 4 hour detailed-zymol-sweat-n-tears wax job only to have your mud-caked dirty SRR/Beaks/ITR setup ruin it. A little toothbrush, rag, and engine cleaner under your car for an hour doesn't hurt anyone.
>>I find this helpful. Have a stereo out playing your favorite music, wear your favorite oil stained shirt, a cooler full of brew/soda/drinks, a pack of smokes (if your smoke), and as previously mentioned double your estimated time because you will run into complications or unexpected time-consuming jobs.
