How to fix a FITV its as easy as 1, 2, 3....
03-02-2004, 01:35 AM
#51
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do u think i can add a FITV on my set up i got a type r TB with a 99 si IM on a first gen b16..cause dam i hate to always have to sit down and play with my pedal till i can get an idle...my **** starts up fine then it starts to bogg out then it dies...do u think i need a FITV or jess a new IACV..hit me up ...
03-11-2004, 05:37 AM
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so if you rremove it all you have to do is hold down the pedal in the morning. because i'm working on a setof itbs for my car and that was something i was wondering about.
03-13-2004, 04:45 PM
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Re: (ijjz)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slywfbpsi »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if you remove it, you still have to route the coolant line to the iacv.</TD></TR></TABLE>
04-27-2004, 12:37 PM
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sorry man, hpphoto all of a sudden went gay and they dont want the pictures to be shared on web boards anymore, give me a bit and im transfer everything back to the lame imagestation 
05-02-2004, 04:23 PM
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Re: (Nerologic)
i JUST found this thread.. sounds like my problem. if someone can email me the pictures at kaj750@yahoo.com i'll host them. this whole "red x" thing is getting old.
05-06-2004, 07:34 PM
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Re: (Nerologic)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Nerologic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">PM sent, il try to email you the pics soon....</TD></TR></TABLE>
still waiting.
still waiting.
05-07-2004, 06:27 PM
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05-11-2004, 01:14 AM
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Re: (Spikes11)
okay. if you have a GS-R intake, here's where it is:
on the BACK SIDE of the throttle body (facing the firewall, below the actually TB opening), there is a small, gold plate with TWO bolts that have phillips screwdriver slots.
take off these two screws. under that will be a white, nylon ring with slots on either side that surrounds some kind of button. thermostat of some sort, maybe? anyway:. use something flat and turn it CLOCKWISE to lower the idle.
i had to screw mine in about three full rotations to lower the idle from 2800rpm to about 1800-1900.
i hope this helps. i've been all over this site and couldn't get a straight answer
if you are REALLY good, you won't have to take off the TB. i left mine on so i could remove plate, adjust, install plate, test car, repeat. i'd hate to take of the TB each time. if your motor is actually IN a GS-R, i doubt you will have room to do this.
you WILL loose coolant when you remove the two lines going into the IACV, so be prepared.
it's easier if you remove the MAP sensor and IACV plugs.
ummmmm. i think that's 'bout it.
oh, the bolts are 8mm, i think. not sure. smaller than 10mm for sure. again, they DO have phillips screwdriver slots in them.
hope this helps anyone with a GS-R intake/TB.
on the BACK SIDE of the throttle body (facing the firewall, below the actually TB opening), there is a small, gold plate with TWO bolts that have phillips screwdriver slots.
take off these two screws. under that will be a white, nylon ring with slots on either side that surrounds some kind of button. thermostat of some sort, maybe? anyway:. use something flat and turn it CLOCKWISE to lower the idle.
i had to screw mine in about three full rotations to lower the idle from 2800rpm to about 1800-1900.
i hope this helps. i've been all over this site and couldn't get a straight answer
if you are REALLY good, you won't have to take off the TB. i left mine on so i could remove plate, adjust, install plate, test car, repeat. i'd hate to take of the TB each time. if your motor is actually IN a GS-R, i doubt you will have room to do this.
you WILL loose coolant when you remove the two lines going into the IACV, so be prepared.
it's easier if you remove the MAP sensor and IACV plugs.
ummmmm. i think that's 'bout it.
oh, the bolts are 8mm, i think. not sure. smaller than 10mm for sure. again, they DO have phillips screwdriver slots in them.
hope this helps anyone with a GS-R intake/TB.
05-11-2004, 06:26 AM
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Re: (kaj)
also don't forget to reset the ecu if u adjust the idle screw 
Also.. my idle.. cold is 2k.. full warm is 900. (in a 88 crx si)
So it starts off at 2k and slowly falls down to about 400-500rpm as the car starts to warm up! The temp gauge is reading 1/2 way to normal temp. Once it reaches full operating temp the idle is 900rpm...
Dist, plugs wires are new, fuel filter new. ecu is a known good pm6. No codes.
Anyone have any ideas??
Also.. my idle.. cold is 2k.. full warm is 900. (in a 88 crx si)
So it starts off at 2k and slowly falls down to about 400-500rpm as the car starts to warm up! The temp gauge is reading 1/2 way to normal temp. Once it reaches full operating temp the idle is 900rpm...
Dist, plugs wires are new, fuel filter new. ecu is a known good pm6. No codes.
Anyone have any ideas??
05-12-2004, 06:59 PM
#75
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Re: (crx_88_si)
no need to adjust the regular idle. this is a thread about the cold start idle. also, if you DO adjust your regular idle screw, i THINK you have to use a jumper on your "plug" if you are OBD I.
anyway, starting at 2k and resting at 900 is a bit high, i guess. the 900 can be fixed by your regular idle screw. the 2k cold start up is close to stock, isn't it? been so long i can't REMEMBER what stock, cold start up is...??? so your car goes:
2000rpm
4-500rpm
900rpm at operating temp?
check your IACV?
anyway, starting at 2k and resting at 900 is a bit high, i guess. the 900 can be fixed by your regular idle screw. the 2k cold start up is close to stock, isn't it? been so long i can't REMEMBER what stock, cold start up is...??? so your car goes:
2000rpm
4-500rpm
900rpm at operating temp?
check your IACV?